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Found 24 results

  1. I installed a new stator due to spark problems. I re-assembled the minimum just to start it. Fired right up. However it would not shift, probably assembly error. I am attaching two pics, one is the crankcase left side and the other is the crankcase cover where the stator is mounter. I the cover pic I am pointing at a fork type part with two fingers. How should that be oriented for reassembly?? If you can see something else wrong in the photos let me know. Or could it be where the shifter rod goes thru the crankcase cover, the rod might of gone thru the case hole crooked?? For a quicker response email at byter1 at gmail.com
  2. All my studs on the wheels have the beginning 3/8 inch worn by rust as have each lugnut, so their integrity is very poor. Especially since not much of the stud extends beyond the wheel to begin with, and several of the lug nuts have no purchase at all, so they won't even stay on. My question first off is, "what is the thread size of these studs, and how difficult are they to punch out and replace"? I see new ones are available. I would hate to take a hammer to the old stud to knock it out only to break the wheel hub. Does anyone have any knowledge of this situation?
  3. At the end of last Winter my snowplow cable broke and now I finally need to get around to replacing it. Original cable was 1/8" but I think I can upgrade to 3/16" - anyone have any experience there? It's a Yamaha branded plow w/ a Warn (I think) manual lift. There's a ball-end on the cable, so not sure if that complicates matters and I need to get a pre-made cable. Appreciate any insight
  4. I cant find replacement plastics for a yamoto 70cc quad... i have searched high and low. I appreciate and help. Thanks!
  5. I'm gonna tag this thread with Foreman 500 secondary gear reduction. Im doing that because on the 500s the secondary gear reduction is accomplished by changing the gear on the output shaft and the smaller gear directly above it. So this could be very useful for someone doing that procedure as well. So let's start from the beginning. It was a great day to ride at Highlifter, and we set out into the woods. Not long after a heard a huge clunk and the bike lurched forward when giving it gas. I was able to engage 4wd and the front tires pulled me back to the trailer. There was some awful noises along the way however so I knew something was torn up pretty good. I cut the driveshaft boot off and found this: So I went ahead and took the swingarm off and this curious little guy fell out: When I dumped the swingarm out, this was in the driveshaft tunnel: I also noticed the output shaft was bugared up, and the rear case was cracked a little, so I ordered up some parts. Output shaft 23611-HP0-A00 $43 Rear crankcase cover 11340-HP0-A10 $136 (comes with 91201-965-000 o'ring pre-installed) Kickstart cover gasket 11396-HP0-A00 $11 Rear cover gasket 11395-HP0-A00 $13 Output shaft seal 91205-HM7-003 $10 Optional but I did not order: Kickstart oil seal 91202-HP0-A01 $8 --------------------
  6. Hey guys, Just got my new 500 HO a few months back and after a ride the other day there was major banging from the top end. Brought it to the dealer and they had a listen and said its coming from the top end. The mechanics hauled the engine out and had a look in and said that there was major scoring on the intake side of the cylinder and the piston was damaged causing "piston slap." The mechanics said they have never seen anything like this on a brand new quad. There is 400kms on my bike. The bike has never been drowned in water or any major incidents on it. Its basically lady driven. My 500 is under warranty for the fix but im trying to pin point what exactly when wrong to cause this. Upon further inspection of the bike, there was oil pooled up in the air box that mechanic said it could have been sucked up there from the bike being rolled over or being on a steep incline for too long. Which it never has. Ive been reading around and people were saying that a faulty oil pump could be a issue. Is there any way to prove this? Or to test that in fact that it is broken. Is there any other thing that could cause a top end to go on a new quad?! I'm boggled here. I'm worried that it will happened again after the dealer fixes my problem and I'll have to pay out of my own pocket. Thanks in advance!
  7. I have an 05' LTZ 250 that needs a new rubber boot on the shaft. Do I need to pull the swingarm and rear shock off and pull the shaft out to replace the boot?
  8. Hey quadcrazy im looking into but a suzuki lt250r but the guy said the piston needs to be replaced and he said it wont start. He is sale it for $500 dollars. Ifi do replace the piston do you all think it will run or are there more problems with it you think ? Also i would like to say thank you to everyone who has helped me on this website i greatly appreciate it one love
  9. First of all I would like to thank you everyone in advance for there help. I picked up a 2004 Raptor 350 for $500. There is less then 50 hours on this machine. Its been sitting for most of its life. Its in pretty decent condition. I pulled the carb and cleaned it out. It was full of green corrosion. While I was doing this I notice that the throttle plate was sticking. I looked to see if parts were available separately and nope they were not. I found a 2006 raptor 350 carb on ebay for $65. I received it today and it was even more corroded then the original. So I took all the bowl internals and swapped them over to the 06 carb. I cleaned everything really good. I slapped it on the bike and it runs but its back firing when you give it gas, doesn't want to idle with no choke. I have to apply the choke perhaps 20~30% to keep it at an high idle so it won't die. My question is. Is the 06 carb compatible with 04? They look identical. My next move is to order a rebuild kit. Do I order one for 06 now? Are 04 through 08 the same?
  10. How do I know when to replace them? I know it should seem easy and obvious, but I'm really at a loss here. My chain, when held sideways in mid-air, bends at a curved 90 degree angle. It seems pretty loose , i.e. everything moves kinda side to side. I'm guessing thats bad, however my sprockets look better. The rear sprocket has no curved teeth, however it is showing signs of slight wear because on one side of the tooth it is slightly curved and the other side it is slightly flat. Also, the front sprocket has slightly hooked teeth, but they are still thick. If all this stuff is "slightly", can I just leave it? Also, the rear sprocket hub has a couple cm's of free play forwards and backwards on the axle. Is that bad too? The chain seems like its the worst of all, but people tell me to not just replace the chain, but also the sprockets. I have three machines and cant afford to do that. Advice? On my dirt bike, the chain is exactly the opposite of the one on my YFZ. It is sturdy, and nothing really moves; however it seems so "sturdy" that the chain gets kinked in some areas. Instead of replacing the chain, can I just give it a quick oil and be done with it?
  11. I'm trying to replace the a arm bearings on my son's 02 300ex and I can't seem to get the clip ring (or stopper ring as Honda calls it) out... I tried retaining clip removers, mini needle nose pliers a set of picks and I even tried banging them out and nothing... The ring has no room for expansion or anything... Anyone have any ideas?? All help is appreciated, I'd rathe not have to pay to bring it to a shop. This is driving me crazy... Please help he's bugging to go riding. Thanks in advance, Carl
  12. ive read a couple forems about this but on diffrent machines dose the inner boot have to be remover to replace outter boot or can i just change outter boot also once ive removed boot how do i get the joint apart?
  13. Looking for some help on how to take the front drive shaft out on my 1991Yamaha Big Bear so we can replace the u joint.
  14. Am I missing something, or is the lower air-box all but impossible to replace once it's been removed? I guess in hindsight maybe I didn't need to remove it to get the carb out, but it's out now, and doesn't want to go back. I'm considering cutting out an inch from the back and making it shorter, but obviously that won't be a quick task. Might be easier to just get an after-market filter and get rid of the box, but I really hadn't planned on that. Suggestions???
  15. Please Please any help -- I'm replaceing my right front half shaft and I dont know how to get the axle out... I got the axle apart and pulled the entire unit away from the Quad - I have a complete axle to replace it. When I tapped the axle, it pulled everything away from the quad. That's not what I wanted as the 'green egg' (that my axle slides into) came away from the differential I can't dis-attach it from my axle. I pulled the boot back and can see the bearings in the 'green egg' but cant get the axle out of the green egg-- it wants to pull the bearings out and they wont come out either. (which is good) - I dont really want to pull that out/apart and mess with those. I wanted to pull the axle out and slip mine in. How do I get that out???
  16. Going to have to get some new tires for my '98 Recon. I have read somewhere about the feasibility of larger tires. anybody have any experiences with using larger tires? I know that there is a limit on how much larger you can go. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you, martin
  17. I have a 97 Kodiak 400 4x4 and the fuel gauge in the tank was damaged when I got it. I would like to replace it and Yamaha has given me a price of $50 for the parts. I have a Clymer manual but it does not give the remove and replace instructions for the fuel gauge only the tank. Any wizard out there that can give me the info or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance Code
  18. For starters, I'm not a mechanic, but due to economic times I've been forced to repair my own ATV. My clutch had been slipping for some time, so I bought a service manual and ordered new parts. I put in the new clutch plates and reinstalled just the way it came apart. Now my Big Bear won't even move at all. I put 10WX30 in and then changed to 20WX50 with the same results thinking it was the oil. The oil isn't synthetic. Any help would be appreciated.
  19. What is a good replacement clutch for a "04" 660 raptor stock , with out going broke? I have seen from $43 to $299. Has anyone tried the kit that has an extra steel smooth plate and it eliminates the wave washer?
  20. If anyone can offer any assistance in replacing the rear cv boot any help would be appreciated. I am having trouble getting the rear shaft off of the quad. I figured the part would have some sort of manual but that would be too easy. Thanks again!
  21. :confused:I know I have asked this before but just want to be sure! The axle's do just " pop " out correct? I have never taken one apart before. I tore a boot and toasted the cv joint. I have a slide hammer and will attempt this tomorrow. Does anyone know what a shop will charge to replace one? Sorry its been a long time since I have been on site but with two kids in hockey and construction the way it is did not have the money to mess with it. Hockey is over know but unfortunatly I tore my rotator mucles in shoulder and will be out of work till June. I now have nothing but time to mess with stuff so figured I would get the ATV ready for summer.
  22. Kawasaki Teryx High-Flow Replacement Air FilterBreathing deep, K&N opens up the Kawasaki Teryx with a High-Flow OE replacement Air Filter…December 2008, K&N Engineering, Inc., Releases a “New” High-Flow Replacement Air Filter (KA-7508) for all 2008-2009 Kawasaki KRF750 Teryx 4X4 Side by Sides. Designed to fit specifically into your OE Air Box Assembly, this New High-Flow, OE Replacement filter is performance designed to provide increased airflow, resulting in increased horsepower & torque. The pleated media provides an Extra-Large filtration area offering longer service intervals. Ensuring a secure fit, the K&N utilizes the OEM mounting cage. Specifically designed base seal and top molds, injected with the highest quality Urethane ensures a perfect seal and extra long life. • Fuel management modifications are not necessary to obtain increased performance • All K&N High-Flow Filters are washable & reusable, pre-oiled and ready to ride • K&N delivers the same high-flow technology in every filter manufactured • Covered by the K&N Limited Warranty for One Year • Optional - K&N DryCharger® improves protection and increase service intervals in extreme conditions. Look for K&N High-Performance Air Filters, Oil Filters, and Complete Intake Assemblies for your motorcycle,car or truck at your at your local performance dealer! GO TO: http://www.knfilters.com/ for more information and a performance dealer near you! UTV Industry News UTVGuide.net More...
  23. I have a 05 400 cat and did not notice that I had torn a boot untill it was to late. The outer joint is shot. How do the axles come out? Is it a c-clip that has to be removed first or is it a pin type that can be removed with a slide hammer. Love the site. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  24. Well the 400ex is about due for some new pads. Having heard some horror stories about poor fit, pads being too thick etc. anyone have any recomendations? What brand fits/performs best? What brands to stay away from? Inquiring minds want to know.

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