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I recently picked up a king quad 700 that doesn't run in the hopes of getting it running by spring. It had been previously taken apart some and a few pieces are missing in the engine, but the frame is complete and in good condition. The motor will need a piston, rings, cylinder, cams, and a few misc parts that are missing. Also the cases will need to be split to remove the pieces of piston that are in the crankcase. The piston blew up at high rpm and did a number on the cylinder so I'm trying to find out if it would be worth rebuilding this motor it buying another engine to swap in. There may be more damage to this engine that I can see so I was wondering how bad the insides of it could be considering it destroyed the piston. I have found a motor for 1200 plus 200 shipping, the only problem is I don't have that much now and I would have to save up a while before being able to afford it. Any suggestions appreciated.

After looking at the wire diagram I saw the blue w/black stripe wire is coming from the neutral and reverse lights looking for ground thru the neutral and reverse switches. If it finds ground, the lights come on. The same wire also comes from the neutral relay looking for ground at the same neutral and reverse switches. So it was easy to trick the relay into thinking the engine is in neutral all the time without having the light on all the time. Just cut the blue w/black wire at the relay and ground it. Easy Sorry the pics aren't better Now it starts in any gear and indicator lights work as they should.

OK guys, Ive got a 1996 suzuki king quad 300. Just where and how do you get to the CDI unit on these? Is there a way to check these if you dont have the suzuki tool or meter?

Hello Just signed up, as I've had a recurring problem, and need some help. To start the bike I have to put the choke on all the way and 4 squeezes on the gas, Then as I push the start, I slow squeeze the throttle about half way for it to catch....If I miss it, then it will take 5 mins of slowly finding the sweetspot on the choke in unison with some throttle squeezes. Then I have to to hold the throttle to keep the bike going, using the choke will stall it out. after about 3 mins of holding the throttle, I then can let it go, and it idles fine, and runs fine. If it sits for a few hours it's only slightly hard to start, but a few days of sitting, and it's a lot more work. Had the bike serviced they couldn't figure it out. They swapped peticock, plug, new gas, all new lines, new throttle, and cable. Said the carb was fine, and clean. New air filter, said fuel pump was fine, no leaks around carb boots, new battery, new rectifier. Ran some sea foam through it....Runs Great.....Just such a pain to start... Thanks

Looking for downloadable repair manual for my kq 300 . Nut. Saftey switch messin up / won't start

I have a 2005 king quad 700 that won"t start.its getting plenty of fuel and spark.The last time it started it back fired and quit.hasn"t started since.Any ideas whats wrong?

I recently posted pics of a burned up stock regulator/rectifier on a 2000 Suzuki King Quad 300. It lasted about 14 yrs. and the group advised replacing it. After doing this and replacing the battery it started having the same symptoms before the other unit died. The engine would run very rough unless the headlight was switched on. Then while riding one day the engine died completely. Any ideas as to what might be killing this particular part. The part was not that hard to replace but runs about $95.00 and is a pain to access. Want to get this tested and repaired once and for all. Any suggestions are appreciated.

When I try to start my kingquad the oil overtemp light comes on and the solaniod ckilcks, but the starter won't come on. I thought it was the battery, so I got a new one but still no go. Thanks for the help Dan

Feul pump went out. Replaced. At times quad cuts out like its not getting gas. Saw article on new pump needs to be calibrated. Told how to go into a service mode. Does not tell how to calibrate after going into mode. Can anyone shed light on this procedure.

I took apart the carburator to clean out and I can't remember exactly where the springs that are inside the float are supposed to go I've tried to look up schematics but I think I am missing a spring maybe need helpt:confused::confused:

Can you put tracks on manual atvs? would it be effective? is 280cc enough to even move them? thoughts/suggestions?

I have a 1998 Suzuki King Quad 300 that runs rough when I'm pushing wet snow, or when I drive through taller wet grass. Can anyone suggest what might be exposed in the undercarriage that should affect how the King Quad runs when it gets wet?

Just bought this quad and it is in pretty good shape. It is missing a small plastic piece right above the headlamp cover right in front of handle bars. Does anybody know where I can find this piece? Now the CV axle. The left inner CV boot is ripped and wheel hesitates when making a sharp turn in that direction. I am trying to find a replacement or a fix, but have been recieving different suggestions for the fix. First one was buy a replacement CV axle. Second said to that the inner was it's own build and that if you ought a CV axle it would only e a half shaft. Just confused and need some guidence. Thank you guys!

anybody can tell me what is the outside diameter of a kingpin bushing # 51215-950-000 Thanks Gignac02

okay so just recently I bought this machine for a friend's son as a graduation gift. We rode about two days ago and while riding he punctured the oil filter so we went home immediately. I fixed the oil leak and basically did an oil change and went out for a test ride to see how it was riding and about an hour into my ride it started shaking hard when I hit throttle and just rolled to a stop and now it will Not move in any gear. Out of one of the snorkels had a nasty burnt smell when this happened. Thank you for any help in advance!!

ok I just picked up this bike and the guy that had it cut a bunch of the wires.... so what I need is to know what wires coming out of the CDI hook up to just so I can get it to spark both the key and kill switch wires are gone I dont need it to be 100 just need to know if it will fire... this is what I have... connector 1 green black-blue stripe connector 2 orange black-white stripe connector 3 white-blue stripe thank you for your help

I hope this is right form is not point me the right place. I have just brought a 07 king quad 700. Its got 14 rims with 28 tires. Can't remember what brand right now. What I would like is a programmer and a clutch kit for it. I'm used to diesel trucks really new to the fuel injected quads. Let me know what my bike needs thanks.

The quad starts but wont idle sometimes it idles high then dies. When riding it will be fine for a while then it will cut out. It has lots of power, is it time to rebuild the carb or is there other issues?

I am in dire need of help with my king quad fuel flow issue. I need a diagram of the fuel lines so I am for certain my lines are correct from the fuel pump.please if anyone could help me that would be great

Hi, I have a 1991 Suzuki King Quad 300. I bought it not long ago, and it has never run right. I bought a new diaphragm for it. It's sealed in that department. It barely ran good before, and actually I got it to run fairly good, with a good pull with a clamp in air cleaner. I put a snorkel on it, making sure to use pipe that would allow an ID as big as the carb intake flange, so there's no restrictions, and the same clamp on air cleaner. I went through the carb again, even put a top quality Japanese rebuild kit in it. It starts and idles perfectly. Has good power from idle to about 1/3, then anything past 1/3 throttle, or thereabouts, it just bogs down and completely dies. If I pull the choke in, I can get it to half throttle without it bogging down or dying. It pops and backfires and sputters the whole time, then past a certain point the engine acts like I hit the kill switch. It IS getting gas in the carb by the way, I put on a electronic fuel pump which helped things immensely. I put on a fuel pressure regulator and got the fuel to around 2 PSI. I am at about 5,500 feet elevation, and the main jet is a 120. I am considering coring out the main jet to a larger size to see if that helps anything. This quad is already such a gas hog, but maybe if it is jetted right it won't be so had? Edit: It does actually run a tad better when it is warmed up.

bought this atv back in 2001 and in the lst few years it has only had a couple weeks of use per year.. the main reason is it has got cold blooded and wont start good.. have had 2 different qualified people rebuild carb to try and solve starting issues and it still isnt right.. according to the info i have found out here and other areas it has the x version carb in it which is no longer available,, i am looking to possibly replace the carb with something but dont know who made the original and do not know the model of a comparable carb,, the valves have been checked and it doesnt have alot hours on it.. the best way to start this thing is to put 2 fingers over the the top breather tub if you can get your hand in there and try to get it on the sweet spot with choke and start button or throttle lever.. so if any of you have some input on this head ache i am all ears thanks for your responses.. also the choke doesnt seem to do alot for it.. in the past i have had to runt he choke part open or closed to get it to run regular.. also have had it back fire big time on a couple early mourning runs tot he tree stand.. which is just what the doctor didnt order:)

I recently aquired a king quad 700. I have changed oil spark plugs and air filter. My question is what could be the cause for oil to be burnt through exhaust? Smoke is blue in color and smells of oil. Bike runs good no loss of power just blows a good bit of smoke after reaching operating temps. Didn't smoke until reaching temperature. Thanks for any input you may have.

Hi, I have a 1991 King Quad that I bought that needed "carb work". So I bought a rebuild kit and installed it, checked and set float height. It idles okay, but when I give it gas it stumbles all over itself. On full throttle it suddenly comes alive and pulls and pulls. It is rideable, but only marginally. So I was examining the slide and diaphragm, but at the bottom of the slide, there are three holes. One in the middle for the needle, and two on each side of it at the bottom of the slide. What are these holes for? I can see daylight through them so no vacuum is being formed in there, it is being sucked out of the two open holes. Is there a spacer or something that blocks these holes? I might try filling them with silicone and seeing how it runs with it in there, because it is not running right right now. It acts lie there' no vacuum pulling the slide up, only at WOT.

when it has been threw deep water and then sets in freezing weather, the right front wheel locks up, can get it loose by putting it in four wheel to break it loose then off tot he trails but any idea where t look for the cause or the leak that is causing it to lock up must be getting water in somewhere on the break drum i think that it shouldnt.. any help would be appreciated..

Gents, First off, I have spent a week browsing your Forum, but now I must join and find answers, please assist. Soon to be retired US Marine, I live in the woods of Maine, I purchased a used ATV, listed above. I have a Clymers Manual. ( uuhh not real easy to read with out my crayons and Pop-up pictures). When Purchased, I knew it needed work. This is a father son project ( he is 13), in parts, in the basement.. no brakes, electrical wire dis-allowed the electric starter to work, ( fixed easily) choke frozen, rear bearings shot, close to impossible to start, stop light brake switch electric broken, speedo cable broken. Description of work done: 1- new rear bearings-purchased "boss bearings" 2-new choke cable and assembly - was stuck in the carb, and cable was frozen 3-new rear bushings on suspension arms- were frozen/seized during the bearings removal 4-new front, rear breaks,- drums being turned this week at local machine shop 5-brake master cylinder-top screw being tapped out- .. was stripped and broken 6-miscilaniouse OEM parts and bolts ordered from Partzilla and Rockymoutnain parts- so far good fits: bushings, bushing bolts, air filter assembly, choke assemble, wheel brake cylinder: springs/gaskets bolts, master cylinder rebuild kit. to be fixed- ANY AND ALL Advice to all next steps: 1-Wheel Brake Cylinders to be rebuilt- cylinders in local machine shop being "honed" A- hints and suggestions ? I have new gaskets, bolts, rubber, and springs. OEM 2- I need a New Muffler Exhaust: Hard to find?? any ideas? 3- Speedo Cable assemby on order 4. MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION AND HELP: Carburator engine NOT starting: below is what I know to be true: a. reassembled carefully back in place after choke assembly was replaced b. checked ALL Fuel lines, steady streams ! c. Starter switch works- d. spark plug is not fouled, blue spark, damp. e. electric is working f. tried eather / quick start - NO catching of spark to make engine go "vroom" g. no visible oil or fuel leaks on engine head or crank case h. when inspecting air intake at filter, it appears the carb is shooting air back into the filter, NOT into the carb..?? this normal?? Well, I hope this didnt bore you, and you can provide some insight on all or any items? Help this Marine out please? Frankfort, Maine..USA