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Found 17 results

  1. Do any mods to your atv? Let's hear about it!!!
  2. After looking at the wire diagram I saw the blue w/black stripe wire is coming from the neutral and reverse lights looking for ground thru the neutral and reverse switches. If it finds ground, the lights come on. The same wire also comes from the neutral relay looking for ground at the same neutral and reverse switches. So it was easy to trick the relay into thinking the engine is in neutral all the time without having the light on all the time. Just cut the blue w/black wire at the relay and ground it. Easy Sorry the pics aren't better Now it starts in any gear and indicator lights work as they should.
  3. Found this system and have tried it on my quad (and bikes) had to mod the mount a little to fit my wider bars but that was simple with some aluminum flat stock adding 2" to each side. Simple wiring and all in one unit so did not have to bury an amp....loaded it up with music and also use my bluetooth on phone...wanted to share....its on ebay under firehousetechnology . wanted to share will post more as I ride more but so far so good and simple addition! They are on facebook also under firehouse technology if you wanted to see what they posted Here is video link to there initial post and video
  4. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCzOzu7eD4M[/ame]
  5. This is a 2008 Polaris Sportsman 500 X2 modification to make the taillights only come on when the headlights are on. Normally the taillights are always on, which I admit is very helpful when following someone on the trail in lowlight conditions. I prefer to have the option of when the lights are on, so I installed the following mod to my Polaris. Parts: - 1 x Bosch style relay. Amazon: AGT (5 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay with Harness; spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS) for 13.99. - 1 x 1N400X diode (I used a 1N4004, but any diode in the series should be fine) - Wire connectors, preferably marine grade heat shrinkable. - Heat shrink wrap. - Wire protection: split loom and nylon sleeve. - Wire: 5 feet of 16-18 gauge. Bosch relay info: CHETS CIRCUITS (and scroll down to yellow diagram near mid page--thanks Chet) Basic concept: 1. Splice into a headlamp wire and run it to relay pin 85; ground pin 86 to the frame. 2. Cut the two taillight wires (L and R), and connect one side of the cut (both L and R) to relay pin 30, and the other side to pin 87. 3. When the headlights are on, power from the headlight wire to pin 85 causes the relay to close the taillight connection through pins 30 and 87 to make the taillights turn on. When the headlights are off, the connection between pins 30 and 87 is open, resulting in the taillights being off. 4. The brake lights are on their own circuit, so will still work normally. 5. The relay only draws about 170 milliamps from the headlight splice so there is no apparent change in headlight intensity. 6. I don’t think joining the individual L and R taillight wires to pass through the relay (pins 30 and 87) has any effect on the electrical system since they come from the same splice upstream. My install used a 5 pin relay with pig tail wire connector. I removed the unneeded center pin wire (87a pin): [ATTACH]1759[/ATTACH] I pulled out the 85 and 86 wire pins and soldered a 1N4004 diode in as a precaution against back EMF. Back EMF is a voltage spike caused when power is removed from the relay that could cause damage to switches in a system not specifically designed to have a relay. An electrician may know better whether or not this is needed to protect the headlight system of the quad. Note the diode’s cathode end must connect to the power wire (pin 85 in this case), and anode end must connect to the grounded wire (pin 86), I.E. Reversing the diode polarity will cause a short and potential damage. An option is to purchase a relay with an integrated diode. Diodes are cheap at Radio Shack. I suspect installing a diode is overkill, but I had the time and energy . . . Soldered in diode and with connectors and diode reinstalled: [ATTACH]1764[/ATTACH] Next, I found a place to mount the relay. On the left side frame, next to the air box, was a foot-well brace bar that bolts into the frame. I mounted the relay on this bolt and also connected the relay ground wire (pin 86) to the bolt by crimping a ring connector to the wire: [ATTACH]1762[/ATTACH] Then I very carefully removed a half inch of insulation from the front left headlight power wire (a green wire on my quad) and soldered in a wire to connect to pin 85. I put a nylon sleeve on this wire and ran it back to the relay, following existing wire looms and zip tying it in place: [ATTACH]1763[/ATTACH] Next I accessed the taillight wires--the PS500 X2 made this easy since it has a dump bed that lifts up. For typical quads, you may need to remove the rear storage rack to access the taillight loom. As you can see in the pic, my taillight wires are red w/white trace, the brake light wires are orange, and the ground wires are dark brown. Cut the taillight wires and crimp on connectors, then connect to pins 30 and 87 (black and blue wires in my case). Polarity doesn’t matter. View from above: [ATTACH]1763[/ATTACH] Made all the connections to the relay then tested the light system. Worked like a champ. I used shrink wrap and tape to seal the connections then put split loom wire protection over the wires between the relay and taillight loom and zip tied everything in place. I also spliced in a license plate light to the taillight circuit. I used tape to mask the dome so only a slit is open to shine softly on the plate. Had a couple more pics, but apparently can only upload up to 5 total, or per post.
  6. I have a 1995 yamaha kodiak 400 stock and was looking to add some mods nothing in particular yet besides tires winch and a lift was wondering if anyone else has done anything to these machines
  7. Please help me out here. I bought a Atv/4- Wheeler for $150 bucks. Im not an expert on these things. What is it? What brand/Type???? So i need to know how i can fix it up. I want to mod it basically. Please tell me what i can do to it!?? *Also where I can find parts for a cheap price online Here are some pics. Please take a look. http://s1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg514/javydiaz/
  8. Hello, I am new here . I own an 06 Cat 500LE 4x4. I would like to give it more power. thinking of doing air box mod. Any suggestions would be great. I am ok with jetting. I alredy have airdam clutching.
  9. Hi I have a 2008 KFX 450 and have herd you can put the cams out of the KXF 450 dirt bike in it to get better performance anyone done this or know if it really helps??
  10. After riding my new (to me) 2000 trail boss, I noticed the fan NEVER ran, even after letting the quad idle for 15 minutes. I thought I had a problem with my fan or my thermister, so I did some checking and found both were working as they were designed...turning on at 260 degrees F. A further check on the various forums found that others noticed their fans not turning on. I believe that this is a design error. The thermister, sitting on the downstream side of the radiator, is waiting for the oil to literaly cook before turning on the fan. I mean, if the oil has reached 260 degrees after going through the radiator, how hot is it in my engine? My belief is that the best oil temps are just above boiling (215 to 245 degrees F or so), so as to help eliminate any water build up, but keeps the oil from cooking. I also noticed that the fan blows air through the radiator, then across the cooling fins of the head/jug. I feel it would be nice if the fan would come on at lower temps, to help with cylinder cooling as well. So I came up with a mod that has really seemed to do the trick. Basically, I just placed at 10K ohm resister across the the thermister wires, so that it is wired in parallel (from one wire to the other). The result: Before: Fan would only turn on at 260 degrees F, off at 240 F. Engine temp light activates at 290 degrees F. After: Fan turns on at 245 degrees F, off at 225. Engine temp light activates at (estimated) 285 degrees F. After making the mod, I tested it, and after idling for 10 minutes, my fan turned on!!!! Oh, and when I placed the resister jumper, I was able to keep everything water tight. I pulled the pins out of the harness that attaches to the thermister wires. Once the pins were out, I used a needle to poke a small hole through each of the two "sealing bushings" that were attached to the wires. I then threaded the resister leads through these small holes, and soldered them to the back ends of the pins. Then I put the pins back into the harness, and for good measure covered the back of the sealing bushings with silicone, also covering the resister in the process. If the temp figures are not low enough for ya, you could use a lower value resister. Go with a 5.6 K, and your fan would turn on at approximately 230 degrees, off at around 200. If you already have a soldering gun, solder, and silicone, the mod only costs .99c for the resister! This mod was done on a 2000 Trail boss. I'm sure it would work for other years and/or models. Check your owners supplement...if your thermister activates your fan at 260 degrees with 2519 ohms across, then it will work.
  11. I have to take my motor completely apart on my 525 Outlaw with the KTM motor. Any suggestions on mods while I have it apart?
  12. well, i decided to make a thread for my quad. first off i'd like to say im 15, and not made of money. im buyin for all the mods. no help from mom and dad. so this will take a while the bike is 2007 400ex. ive had it for 3 months now and here is when we first bought her and how she sits at the moment she has -moose skids all around -moose nerfs with pegs -moose bumper -powermadds(hence my screen name:yes:) - and a billet exhaust tip jus for a throaty sound till i get an exhaust and heres wat i plan on gettin in the future -ironman exhaust -suspension(idk what kind, jus watever i get a good deal on) i do like the fox floats tho -A arms +1's or +2's(idk wat kind, jus a good deal) - maxxis razr mx tires -LSR adustable axle -omf airscoops and a fan(this is an aircooled engine and does overheat quite a bit) -handlebars(fasst if i get a good deal) -white maier of fullbore plastics -hiper beadlocks -roll +1 steering stem -possibly a sparks timing key after warranty is gone. i gotta make this quad a mx machine. i figure the next thing ill buy is either suspension or exhaust. im not gunna screw around with internal engine work till LATER. i do all my own maintenaince (my father does supervise[sp]) and we are scared of messin with the internal stuff i will probbly be added mods to this list quite a bit tell meh wat u think guys! open to any suggestions
  13. I am looking for new parts and aftermarket parts of my 03' Lakota Sport (kef300-b3). On the aftermarket stuff I am looking for a bigger gas tank and the rear and/or front racks. Does anyone know a place I can find this stuff, preferably used so it's cheaper? or any other aftermarket stuff for this bike?
  14. The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
  15. This list is still under review and may be changed if We feel somthing needs to be changed/added/deleted.. Write Stock for anything below that is stock on your Bike. White N/A for anything listed below that is not on your Bike -Body- Plastic- Handguards- Graphics- Seat Cover- Numbers- Bar Pad- Fuel Tank- -Chassis/Control/Suspension- Frame- Steering Stem- Hubs- Handle Bars- Throttle- Clutch Lever/Perch- Grips- Nerfs- Bumper- Grab Bar- A Arms- Front Shocks- Rear Shock- Swingarm- Axel Carrier- Axle- Brake Lines- Axel Locknut- Rotors F/R- Rims F/R- Tires F/R- Stabilizer- -Engine and Drive- Cylinder- Head- Bore- Stroke- Displacement- Carburetor- Air Box- Air Filter- Case Vent filter- Pipe or Silencer- Clutch/Plates- Gearing F/R- CDI- Kill Switch- Cooling system- -Other- please list. -Pictures Limit 3-
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