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Showing results for tags 'sportsman 570'.
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Having problems with the battery draining while riding. It has a new battery, it does have eps, a lightbar and a winch. Can ride it for an hour or more just fine, but eventually the battery runs down to the point it can't keep up with fuel injection and it'll sputter, limp, and die. It also throws codes for the throttle position sensor. I'm not sure if that is related or not. Any ideas?
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Hello all. New here. I made a boo boo that the dealer wants no part of so I'll just suck it up and pay for the damages I did. Was moving some electrical connections to take from plastics off and thought I had taken the neg cable off the distribution block but I took a positive off. It was kinda dark and I know should have taken the battery cable off first. Dumb mistake on my part. Any how when I took the winch positive off the block the main hot cable came off too and touched the frame around block. I have no power to anything and a chassis relay clicking fast and no power to display or anything else. Any idea what this could be. Charged battery and tried that hoping it was that. But nope. Unfortunately. Thanks in advance people.
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View File 2017-2022 Sportsman 570 6x6 Service Manual This is the factory service manual for the 2017-2022 Sportsman 570 6x6 Submitter colin james Submitted 10/18/2021 Category Polaris ATV
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I have a 2018 Polaris Sportsman 570 EPS UTE, that when idling for a few minutes after being warm will just shut off. When I am riding I have to sometimes give it more throttle just to keep it going. RPMs at idle are around 1250-1300 but if I rev it and let the RPMs drop back down it will either stop around 1250-1300 or it will just shut off. I have replaced the spark plug, fuel pump (28-32PSI was the reason), cleaned out the exhaust for carbon build up (which there was none), replaced the battery, etc. I ended up purchasing a Check Tech and connected it to the machine and looked up error codes from history. One of the error codes that showed up was 636 - CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) might be faulty. According to the manual it says that it should be about .46v +- .003 and mine is running at .38. For giggles I took it out and plugged it into another machine and read the voltage and it was showing .45v. Does anyone have any other ideas of what to look for? This issue is driving me crazy. ATV is under warranty so I can get the parts but dealer appointments are a month out.
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I got a 17 model efi in some trade thinking I could get it going with little fuss. Boy I was wrong. Some issues I have is the darn exhaust glows cherry red just after a few minutes of riding. Constantly in order to crank it yiu have to always throttle it just to hit. The feller before who owned it went through wiring, Jerry rigged it just so it would run. I know my first steps figuring out the wiring however and possibly needing to replace the speed cluster. However I’m stumped on the common sense stuff. So if anyone can give me more ideas on issues beside Siri g ide appreciate it.
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Hi everybody. New in the forum and from Sweden. The machine ( Sportsman 570 2018) has been in duty on a farm for three years, last week, worked like normal for an hour or so, was left at idle and suddenly died spontaneously. Did not start at idle as it uses to do. Gave a little throttle, then it started, and sounded ok, no rattling as far as I could hear, but no power at all when I gave it throttle and died when I released the throttle. Now when it has cooled down, it does not start at all, but it tries to start every now and then. When we run it at the start, it pulses air OUT the intake. One theory is that the cam chain has been slack and cogged over and the intake valves are a bit open during the compression phase. It could explain that air is blowing out of the intake in that case. Is this possible without valves breaking or the camshaft collapsing. And the recipe? Set the cam, change chain and tensioner? Or am I completely out in the blue, more ideas? regards Magnus
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I had the bike running perfectly fine, my buddy took it for a little ride. After he got back he hit the kill switch and forgot to turn the key off. We went to grab some food for about an hour. I went to start the wheeler up again and it didn’t start. I obviously switched the kill switch to run. It turns over but won’t go. I Pulled the spark plug out and threw a new one in, been in there since I bought it. Tried starting again and still got no spark. Where would I start troubleshooting this issue?
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Wondering if a 2018 Polaris sportsman 570 head will work on a 450. I have a 2018 Polaris sportsman 450 and I’m rebuilding the motor in it and wanted to do a 570 top end. Or if I could use my stock head with the kit. Thanks In advanced.
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Friday evening went riding, rode for a good hour or so everything was fine. I went to take a short ride to the restroom (less than 100 yds away) and all of the sudden everything flickered and then just died out. Accompanying the problem I noticed the killswitch completely locked up. Once daylight hit took the killswitch apart to find it had shorted out and melted the plastic inside. Has anyone else had anything similar to this and if so what did you do to fix the situation? I have a new killswitch on the way to replace the obvious problem but was wondering could there be a bigger issue at hand. We tested with a voltage meter to make sure everything was still getting power from the battery and as far as we could tell it was. Any advice/info would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.
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After purchasing a lightly used 2018 570SP (300 miles on it) I noticed that the display was flashing on and off. I remember reading awhile back that this was a common problem on the 18 model. I can't remember what the fix is. It also turns over slow even though the battery is charged. Anybody know what the fix is on this issue? Thanks Budman
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Anybody know what the valve clearance is for intake and exhaust on a 2017 sportsman 570? I did a search but it came up with nothing. Thanks
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The quad has done this off and on, almost since new, but it's gotten worse this year. Sometimes if I freshly charge the battery, it'll work fine, others times that won't matter. Turning the key to on it sounds like it's connecting as I go to the start position, slightly before the full turn, but it's not like there is just a sweet spot to find, it's totally erratic. Now the battery is basically dead so I put a new, slightly bigger AGM battery in today to replace the factory one with all of 800 miles on it, but those have lots of plowing hours included. I was able to get it started once, but it still went into limp mode after just a few moments of driving it (that's another topic), so I put it back in the garage and started probing around. Now it doesn't even try to turn over. Is an ignition switch, the $18 shipped aftermarket variety on Amazon worth a shot? Or should I go straight for the starter? The new switch may not come for over a week, so I hate to just put my hopes in that if I'm missing something obvious. Fuses are good, so it's not something super obvious.
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If you're getting that pesky leaky seal on the pinion of your front differential and the pinion has allot of play, polaris won't sell the bushing needed to repair it properly without having to shell out big bucks for the complete ring and pinion kit. I have a kit with an upgraded bushing, Japanese made bearing and USmade seal 50 shipped in the US and 55 to Canada