labyrinths

Camber is usually a non-adjustable thing. If toe in and wheel bearings check out... look for accident damage that might have tweaked frame or suspension a little

For a leisure ride with no or little vibration is places that it won't get caught on things, wear it if you want. But it would really be bad if a nice diamond rattled loose.

On 1/9/2022 at 1:47 PM, dewam said:

The important question is what cut-off method? I can not recommend cut-off wheel, angle grinder, saws-all and chisel, or torch. That torch one was not one of my best moments. Den

On 1/9/2022 at 11:09 AM, RamzV said:

If I can't get it by driving on it I usually just cut them off. Which is still a pain in the butt

Cutting or welding on a wheel or tire that the tire is on the wheel can be dangerous. It can build more pressure from heat than you may think and cause tire or wheel to explode or blow the bead (I seen a training video where they rigged a welding rod to self feed on a large truck wheel. It took almost no time to go from 0 psi to 150 psi). If it is absolutely necessary, make sure the valve core is removed and the inside of valve stem is clear so pressure can relieve easily and allow to cool down often. 

On 5/20/2021 at 10:02 AM, MarkinAR said:

I put a 2x6 about 3 feet long on the bead with one end on the ground and drive my truck up the board like a ramp.  Usually pops the bead right off.

make sure no one is close by. I have seen the atv tire start to stand up the bounce out. Other than that it does work in a pinch

I found a used fairly rigid 24 inch plastic tool box and drilled a hole in each end. I then installed a eye bolt in both ends with a large fender washer inside and outside to spread the load. Then I used the eye bolts to strap box to the rack. That way I can access the box without taking straps off. Also for small items I have used a cheap waterproof welding rod tubes (harbor freight has them on sale cheap a times) that I used hose clamps to secure horizontally to the frame or rack. (a welding rod with a 1 inch 90 degree bend at the end works great for retrieving small items from the back end of welding rod holder)

Mech has a nice list. I would add a small roll of bailing/mechanic wire and tie wire. works great for holding parts or items in place. Drove a atv 15 miles (slow mind you) with mechanics wire holding tie rod socket together. Zip ties worked but broke now and then. Have also used many times because something came loose.

I forgot, add 2 or 3 of the most popular wrench sizes for your machine. Usually 8mm, 10mm, 12mm

I always spent a lot of time in the mountains. And after years of running dirt bikes I wanted something that was more gear hauling friendly.

didn't slide around and was comfortable out of the box but was still not like a factory seat. After I covered it I liked it better that the factory seat. That gel layer is nice

My seat was pretty bad. I bought the Kolpin Gel-tech seat cover and wasn't quite fully satisfied with it. So I got some spray contact glue and glued it down (so I didn't need the straps that normally hold it down). Then I bought some outdoor/marine grade vinyl and stretched it around and stapled it to the underside of the seat frame (my seat frame is plastic). I used a air stapler. Made it a pretty easy job with a second person to staple while I stretched and held it.