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ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

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  1. Yesterday
  2. 👍 Agreed but dont go too deeep with it or you will have to get it back out.
  3. As Mech said it doent look bad, there is a seal under the flage but it looks like it is higher than that, so mayybe oil spillage at some point, i would also suggest cleaning it up and watching it closely.
  4. I have always used the old race to install the new one.
  5. The oil's higher up the engine than the oil pipe, so it's possible that that oil leaked from the oil filter, or got there when the filter got changed. It doesn't really look wet either, which would suggest it's not leaking now or recently. I'd use some fuel and then the garden hose to wash it clean and then keep an eye on it, it may not leak at all, and if it does you will be able to see where it's come from if you look before it's spread the oil about.
  6. I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 500 and recently noticed some oil leaking on the engine block to the right of the oil filter. It's near two metal lines going in and out of the engine block. I think one of the lines is called an engine oil line. I have a photo I'm going to try and attach. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start tearing into the engine if I don't have to. I think maybe a gasket or something blew around one of these lines. The ATV runs fine otherwise. Doesn't overheat or anything.
  7. Last week
  8. Has this started after the bike's been siting for a while getting the repairs done ? Is the fuel fresh ? Could moisture have condensed in the carb ? Check the plug is clean and has a good blue spark, then undo the drain screw under the carb and make sure fuel keeps coming out at a good rate. Keep flowing fuel till you are sure the carb should be empty and make sure it doesn't stop delivering plenty of fuel. Catch the fuel and check there wasn't water in it. If there was water then clean the tank and test the bike again. If it's getting plenty of fuel to and right through the carb then it's probably time to take the carb off and give it a good clean. I usually start by taking the top cover off before taking the carb off the bike, and checking the diaphragm isn't split and that the slide needle hasn't come loose, or adjusting the needle (if the circumstances seem likely that it's in need of adjustment), but if the problem just arose then just that it's not jumping up and down, or dropped down through the slide. Then I'd remove the carb and strip it entirely down and clean it and reassemble it.
  9. Steaming to me means there is aa leak in the cooling system somewhere letting the steam escape, not sure if the fan would keep that from happening, i would try running the fan directly from the battery and see if it keeps it cool enough and prevent the light from coming on and steaming.
  10. If its been sitting for a while the compression may come back a little the more you run it, it could also have some carbon deposites on the valves not letting them close all the way. If you have been running it regular and it just started its probably the rings getting worn.
  11. Yeah these used exhausts on ebay arent worth what they are asking, they are used and at that age will probably burn out also, i wont pay more than 100 for a used exhaust system, you should be able to find something new to piece together a descent system. I like the older bikes too good luck!
  12. 20 minutes or 20 seconds, if it takes that long i think there is something wrong with fuel delivery.
  13. Sorry for the late reply. So I took everything off again both case covers because when I took off the clutch cover I forgot to install the reverse cable bracket to case fixed that and everything is working again But now I'm having a stalling problem riding in 1st and 2nd no problem as soon as I put it in 3rd and give it throttle is bogs down and starts to stall Could it be air/ fuel mix need adjustment? Starting it takes about 20 minutes with holding the start button
  14. I just looked in downloads and we don't have it added to our library. It would be good to get some of the later model suzuki king quad service manuals. The cheapest out there right now is probably on ebay: https://ebay.us/qklGSB
  15. does anyone have an owners manual or repair manual i could download ?i got a 2018 king quad 5oo eps special edition can not find either anywhere thanks
  16. A little leak up at the head to exhaust pipe join, or anywhere in the first few inches of pipe, will make them backfire. Tried these guys.. They have always been good exhausts at a fair price. https://www.musketmufflers.com/
  17. Thanks Mech , I’ll have an update as soon as I get around to it . Thanks for all the help . The quad sounds a lot better now with the new exhaust . Original was toast and rusted through a lot , I even used some flat fibreglass stripping wound around the exhaust to get rid of the last couple holes . I mean a new one exhaust for this thing is hard to find and costs a lot . One on eBay that had a bit of rust was almost 500 dollars … Bombardier 400 exhaust system on it now . Sounds quieter and better now . Still seems to backfire a bit tho , might be some other issue . The quad has came a long way since I first got it , it certainly was in rough shape . Getting better as time progresses. I have about a dozen or more things I’ve done to it since I’ve got it . Love it to peices
  18. A bad misfire can cause a sooty black plug, but it has to miss a lot and for a while.. I'm thinking you would notice that. If it only goes rich occasionaly, and if it was only when you throttle off hard as would be the case if the choke was stuck on, then you wouldn't particularly notice the richness.. That could also explain why the idle mixture doesn't respond to adjustment.. -
  19. Old worn low compression engines do get a build up on their plug, but it's generally a healthy tan or grey hard build up, not sooty. Worn rings burning oil, or leaking valve stems letting oil in to be burnt, the plug goes black and oily looking .. Black soot is always rich mixture I think..
  20. Start the bike and operate the choke.. You should be able to hear if it's working, or doing nothing. The choke only sucks fuel up when the throttle's closed. Soon as you open the throttle the vacuum drops in the choke circuit and it doesn't lift the fuel right to the top of the venturi where the discharge for the choke is. So it could be on and only go rich when you throttle off hard. It does seem unusual to have fluffy dry soot that fast. That's definitely rich though.. Oil looks wet black. You have got fresh fuel haven't you ? And a good grade ? The compression is probably meant to be nearer 175 Lb but that's warm and with a full open throttle and cranking at the right speed. If it comes up to it's 125 in the first couple of compression strokes it's a good sign. If it has to be cranked a lot and slowly creeps up with each compression stroke it's a bad sign. You could put a teaspoon of oil down the plug hole, give it a quick spin with the starter or pull start to distribute the oil, then do a compression check. If the oil raises the compression a lot it points to rings, not valves. Having a tight or leaking valve doesn't normally cause dry fluffy sooty spark plug. Leaking rings doesn't normally cause that sort of soot either.. Only fuel does that. Some bikes say what size the jets are in the parts manuals. You can look that up online, or in a service manual.
  21. Sounds like the charging isn't working. Check the fuses and the connection between the regulator and the battery, both power and earth connections, then the next check is that the stator is putting AC power out down at the engine, or even better, that the AC is getting to the regulator.
  22. #41 I'm not sure which sensor is fitted where on the bike. I only know one has one wire and one has two. If putting power into the fan makes the fan run then the fan is ok. My test procedure is testing which place along the wiring system the disconnect is that's preventing it from going. The most common sign of a blown head gasket is bubbles coming up in the radiator. Steam could be caused by the air being very cold ? Warm water always looks like it's steaming if the air over it is cold enough. Even a farm pond can look like steam's rising up off it. If the engine is really overheating in fifteen minutes of idling it could be the thermostat, the water pump, the head-gasket, a blocked or dirty radiator.
  23. Well yesterday I was towing a couple loads of ashes from my burn barrel, and my rusty ol’ trailer support system gave out ! Not the 2 arms but the part that comes from under the quad that the ball attaches to. Thought I lost the trailer but it was that that was scraping on the pavement.LOL welded a new peice on today that will be much stronger . Also fixed the backfiring issue by putting a new exhaust on from a can am 500. so another question… my battery should be at 14 or so volts while running right ? It doesn’t change its voltage when I start the bike , and after a week or two of starting the quad and sitting outside it dies and I must charge it up again . So either something isn’t hooked up correctly or somethings busted ?
  24. Right now I have only had the machine on idle for like 20 minutes and had it lightly steam/overheat. Mainly because all the plastics are off. So i have not been out riding which is when it typically makes the red light come on. The last ride I was on before taking it apart it had the red light on and some pretty good steam.
  25. Does the temp light come on when the radiator start to steam
  26. Yes I looked at the diagram and saw the two sensors. As I mentioned I’ve replaced the one in the radiator. Not sure how to test the other. Does it affect fan operation? I’ve put power to the fan and it runs. Are you suggesting I should test this another way? Because I don’t understand your procedure in #34. If it powers on with direct voltage is there something I’m missing? how would I know if I blew a head gasket? power seems good on machine when running. I’ve run it with radiator cap off and don’t notice bubbles but will try again. Maybe I’ll video it so you can see.
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