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  1. Yesterday
  2. Ok, update. I downloaded the 85-87 Trx 250 manuel. It showes both cdi boxes but only lists 1 as the cdi box. Not sure what the other one is. At least i have a map. Still would like to know the year of it. Gonna have to do some back probing on the wiring when i get some time. Didnt see this download last time i was on here. Az
  3. Well got another one for the elders here. I recently picked up a Honda Trx 250 in pretty rough shape. Brought it home cleaned it up if thats possible. Motor was seized, Pretty bad shape. I unseized the motor, got it to spin over, Got it to crank on its own with the start button. Got neutral light, but no spark. Fuses good wiring is old but looks intact. Went to check cdi box, here is where the problem lies, I dont know the year. The last one was under the plastic on the crossmember, this one has none. Looks like a sticker was there at one time. I checked the left side of frame by foot peg and nothing. Cant find any vin number. I need to know the year to try to locate a cdi. One clue is this one appears to have 2 cdi boxes. One is a little larger than the other but plugs look identical to eachother. One has green connectors and the other has white connectors. Is this only on certain year model that has duel cdi boxes? I also need a download for a trx 250 Im thinking its about a 1985 or 86 but just a guess. Before changing i would like to check some voltages but need a manual for this. Any guess on how to identify and or get a download for this one would be great. Wont let me post pics only .08 MB Down load available. Thanks in advance Az
  4. 1) remove seat, unplug black and grey 4-pin connectors 2) swap plugs, grey to black and black to grey 3) turn on ignition switch, belt light should be flashing quickly 4) disconnect 2-pin belt switch above torque converter cover, belt light should be flashing slowly 5) let flash for at least 5 seconds 6) turn off ignition switch 7) reconnect 4-pin connectors black to black and grey to grey, reconnect 2-pin belt switch 😎 turn on ignition switch to confirm belt light is out [/b][/quote] "the reset procedure is similar to 650 700. Unplug 2 pin conector going to belt switch. Unplug black conector under seat , unplug white conector beside it ( white plug is a reset plug which has no wires conected to it from machine) Plug reset plug into black plug turn key to on , turn off. plug everything back to stock. You are done." or 1) remove seat, unplug black and grey 4-pin connectors 2) swap plugs, grey to black and black to grey 3) turn on ignition switch, belt light should be flashing quickly 4) disconnect 2-pin belt switch above torque converter cover, belt light should be flashing slowly 5) let flash for at least 5 seconds 6) turn off ignition switch 7) reconnect 4-pin connectors black to black and grey to grey, reconnect 2-pin belt switch 😎 turn on ignition switch to confirm belt light is out
  5. Last week
  6. If it shorted itself out it sounds like there was a bad ground somewhere. Look for loose or damaged wires associated with the kill switch. Only thing I can think of.
  7. Holy crap that sucks. Can't think of anything else it would be, especially if it has never been apart...
  8. Yes sounds like it is a switch safety issue. I would try and clean/adjust it first.
  9. I have had the switches go bad numerous times on old motorcycles. If the battery tests good you can unplug the ignition switch and just 2 of the connections. You should get power with some combination. They you know its the switch.
  10. @Gary Kozdra try removing the muffler. If good then problem is carbon and oil plugged muffler. I had this issue with 2 stroke moped that would hardly pull itself. After cleaning, was strong even with 250 pound rider.
  11. Check if you have any power in the battery if you do make sure that you don't have any corrosion, rust, or cuts in the wires and in the connection wires to battery.
  12. Since I am not familiar with the Timberwolf , I can only guess at a possibility from your description. My best guess is the neutral switch or the mechanism that activates it is either loose or broken so that it is out of position. It may be a simple adjustment and tightening required. Open it up and have a look. Starting in gear is unsafe, especially for a young rider.
  13. picked up my third timberwolf 250 for my daughters. these are great light weight little quads. have a strange one for you. the quad will NOT start in neutral. it will start in first. if i lift up on the gear selector just enough to hear the little click (its not loud, sounds like a contact clicking, perhaps the neutral safety switch?) the light will go out, but it won't yet be in first either. that is how i have shown my daughter to start it and she can. id like to carry out whatever repair is needed. i have the pdf of the shop manual but it doesn't really have a flow through diagram. any help appreciated! thank you. i need to add something. it feels like i can switch into another gear BELOW neutral. so if i switch to neutral, i can keep pushing the gear selector, and it has another click below the neutral. the light stays on, and when i pull up into first it kind of feels like it has two positions it moves through to arrive at first.
  14. 10-4 Agreed. You're right. How else would it have cleared the cylinder wall to end up in the crankcase without doing hellish damage on the way out. It's just that not a single bolt on this thing had ever been removed before. Not even the valve covers to check the lash. Was only a couple years old with just a couple hundred miles when I got it. It was an older gentleman who didn't want to change gears any more due to a bad back, so he was selling it to move up to an automatic when he sold it to me.
  15. Those bits might be from the previous owner having to do a rebuild and not getting all the debris from whatever failed removed. I can't see the circlip being from a wrist pin retainer. You'd most likely have some pretty severe cylinder scoring and other crankcase debris if it was. If it runs fine and no "funny" noises or other debris, I wouldn't worry about it.
  16. OK, sooo I finally did the old skid plate and screen removal to clean out my oil sump during an oil change... This bike only has a couple thousand miles on it. Runs like a top still... Very few issues over the years after buying it used. But boy I wasn't expecting to see this! Piece of a circlip, stuck up in the screen, and a another shard of metal and maybe a piece of gasket material. Nothing in the oil but that... Pristine otherwise, and still runs like a top. Always has. Soooo, is it a wrist pin clip? That's the only thing I can think of like this that could end up in there. But definitely wanted to throw it out to guys that have seen the innerds of these more than I have. The valves on this thing are still within the factory spec even. Been a really good lil workhorse... Any other ideas?
  17. Had the same thing happen with my 400, turns out the starter motor brushes were almost gone. I ordered up a rebuild kit off ebay and put a new brush assembly in the back. Starts right up now. Low brushes and gunk were making it spin too slow to fire up.
  18. It must be the new math, I am up to 10 on the profile content count, and I count 12 for posts or reply's. Ajmboy what am I missing in order to get to 10?
  19. robdoyle, Thanks for the link! This should be my 10th action, so I should be able to download it after sending! Take Care! billyz57
  20. Do you have the Service Manual pdf yet? (You might need to have at least 10 posts to be allowed to download. By the time you answer the question, you'll be there!) Anyway, the "Ignition Circuit" tests the you want are on page 7-21 to 7-26 of that manual. You'll need a voltmeter for the resistance tests. (I use the cheap red Harbor Freight one that everyone else uses. Harbor Freight Item #63759 https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html) Sorry I can't tell you exactly what the connector looks like or where it is. My 2012 Big Bear is different and the pictures in the 1987 pdf manual are not great, but it shows a 4-wire harness (yellow/green/gray/blue) coming out of the left side of the engine case (there is a picture of the stator and CDI rotor on page 3-15), which you need to disconnect to test the resistance of each of two pickup coil windings. You should also test the resistance of the source coil winding and the ignition coil primary and secondary windings. (the resistance values are on page 7-24 and 7-25). Basically you should follow the whole test procedure and do ALL the tests, and record the results and see if anything is out of spec. There may be several values that are marginal and together they reduce the system efficiency.
  21. Not a 2 Stroke but sure is fun, Would post more pics but looks like 2 pics i posted used up all my allowance. Seems can only upload couple of pics now says all files are too large. Theres a lot of 3 wheelers out there. The nicer ones the people think they are gold and sell for more than when they are new. The cheap ones are pretty much destroyed and or missing ungettable parts so keep an eye out and you will find one. Az
  22. Did you ever figure out the backwards ignition switch issue? I have that problem, as well as a few others. Mine has no spark.
  23. Earlier
  24. I'll get an in line spark tester tomorrow, and see what the Yamaha does, and let you know. The other links that were posted talk having a bad pickup coil on the stator, and talk to how you can ohm it to verify. Where do I test the stator at? Again Thanks for your Help!!
  25. You can get an in line spark tester that will tell you if you're getting spark when cranking over. Here is one carried by Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html There are several others at various price points available mail order or in store at most auto and RV parts stores.
  26. You're welcome! Well, since it restarts so reliably, that suggests that the battery and starter connections are ok. But the cold start issue remains. You have to use the pull start when the engine is cold (and only with the OE starter in place), and then the starter works when the engine is warm. You're not the only Yamaha owner with this problem. I found these similar threads: https://www.bluetraxx.com/threads/2000-warrior-pull-starts-it-runs-starter-wont-run.81426/ and https://www.bluetraxx.com/threads/2004-yamaha-warrior-350-wont-start-with-electric-button-but-starts-with-push-pull.82708/ Basically they are also suspecting that the spark is weak and testing the stator. If you have a voltmeter you could try those tests on your stator. However, it might not be so bad to live with it like it is, since you are able to get it running when you want. Let us know whatever you decide to do
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