Quantcast
Jump to content

ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

Showing topics in Arctic Cat ATV Forum, Polaris ATV Forum, Kawasaki ATV Forum, Suzuki ATV Forum, Honda ATV Forum, Can-Am BRP ATV Forum, Kazuma ATV Forum, Cannondale ATV Forum, Yamaha ATV Forum, Other ATV Brands Forum, Kymco ATV Forum, Arctic Cat UTV Forum, Kawasaki UTV Forum, Polaris UTV Forum, Yamaha UTV Forum, Honda UTV Forum, Other Brands UTV Forum, Can-Am BRP UTV Forum, Hisun ATV Forum, CFMOTO ATV Forum, Textron Off Road ATV Forum, Textron Off Road UTV Forum, Joyner UTV Forum, John Deer UTV Forum and CFMOTO UTV Forum posted in for the last 365 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Simple test is as the starter is running/stuck I would unplug the wires going into the starter solenoid and see if the starter stops. It’s the small plug going into the solenoid, If it does stop the starter from spinning then maybe the starter button itself is getting stuck. If your handy with a tester you can do a continuity test.
  3. I would take the pull starter cover off and try to spin the engine just to see if it’s all good. Might as well repair the pull cord while you’re there. I don’t think towing it would be a good to see if the engine spins. Stick with bench testing and replacing the starter maybe and go from there. But having the pull cord work is a really good back up in case the battery dies. So if the bikes worth it then spend the money.
  4. I had the brushes replaced about a year ago but you got me remembering more details. A few months ago, when the starter stopped working, well it didn't just stop working. It sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging. Then after a few tries the starter stopped altogether and the solenoid started clicking. I left it until now. I'll remove the starter and bench test it. I doubt the engine is seized but I guess it could be . Anyway, the pull start doesn't work. Could I tow it and jam it in first gear to check if the engine is seized? It's a 4x4 in case that matters. It would be easier than removing side covers etc. Thank you for the reply.
  5. thanks for your quick response. I'll check out the relay and post back here. thx again
  6. My guess is the starter relay is getting stuck. I would start there because it’s a cheap enough route to go at first.
  7. Yesterday
  8. hi folks - Today I installed a new starter for my 2001 big bear. 400 The old starter has been dead for several years but I'm just too old now to be yanking that pull cord any more. Here's my issue: When I pushed the start button the starter turned over ... and kept going - even after the start button was let go. After 20 seconds or so the starter finally stopped . I pushed the start again and the same thing happened ... In fact, it kept trying to start the machine even after I turned off the key! (for about 10 seconds). (I also noticed that the positive side of the battery got very hot to the touch.) Any ideas on what's happening? thanks
  9. If the starter spins freely with power applied to it then it may be good. But be aware that sometimes it will spin without the load of the engine on it. So just because it spins in a bench test does not mean for sure it’s good. Also try to turn the motor if there is a pull start. If not take the spark plug out and one of the side covers off and try to spin the motor by turning the flywheel or clutch.
  10. I have a 2018 570 sp I like it so far. Have not put much time on it.
  11. Your getting the sparks most likely due to only a couple of things. 1. Bad starter or brushes inside the starter. 2. The engine is locked up. 3. The starter gear is jammed up or broken. I would pull the starter and bench test it with a battery.
  12. Hi. When I press the starter switch, the solenoid clicks and the starter doesn't turn. The battery is good (about 12.6 volts). I tried shorting the two big bolts on the solenoid with a screwdriver. I got sparks and the starter didn't turn. I tried running a booster cable directly to the starter post but all I get is a bunch of sparks. I connected the positive side of the battery to the post or bolt on the starter. I connected the negative side of the battery to the frame, Did I connect everything wrong? I don't know why I get the sparks. Thank you
  13. I cleaned it up a little bit for you as well as did some studying. It’s a little different from my model but still pretty straight foreword. Hope this helps. If you have any questions let me know. If it’s not clear then private message me and I will email it to you.
  14. Sounds like you need the carburetor cleaned or rebuilt. Have you checked the clutch adjustment?
  15. It kinda bucks I guess but it’s got plenty of gas I ordered a new petcock Because it also drips gas very slowly when it’s sitting not running and I read that could be the problem but I don’t know if that has anything to do with the jumping
  16. Last week
  17. @wrench66 can you add this manual to our downloads section? or PM me a link and I'll do it? It may help others since it seems we don't have the right manual available. https://www.quadcrazy.com/files/category/6-kawasaki-atv/
  18. Thanks John, no continuity on the yellow/red wire coming from the CDI box to ground when off....... yes when switched on so it's working ok. Found a service manual online with the correct wiring diagram from the early magneto type ignition (Bay-E download). Gonna separate the ignition from the rest of the wire harness to hopefully narrow down the players in this problem, by giving the cdi and ignition coil their own stand alone ground and eliminating the yellow red kill switch wire I can then see if the CDI, source, pick up and the ignition coils are working...... IF I STILL have no spark then it's only a matter of a couple of obvious parts, IF my spark returns then it's an easy job to one by one plug things back in until the culprit is found. We'll see
  19. yes i’m having trouble with my four wheeler and the roater just keeps spinning and it don’t wanna turn on
  20. @Jcolgin can you post a few pics of the spark arrester ? I want to see how it broke off. This way we can give you some help/suggestions.
  21. DOES YOUR ATV HAVE A KILL SWITCH ON THE HANDLEBAR? IF SO, CHECK IT FOR CONTINUITY. IF YOU HAVE CONTINUITY, THATS YOUR PROBLEM. OLEMANJOHN
  22. This is the machine I have, it's dark now so no pics but this the exact one from Google......... the registration reads date first sold '88 and the tenth digit in the vin is a J so yes it's an '88. Decal says 220 so I'm gonna go with that
  23. A local welding shop should be able to repair it. The metal it’s made of requires an experience welder.
  24. I have a 2000 big bear 400. My problem is Exactly like yours. Previous owner was riding it and it quit in mid ride. He replaced the main fuse in the fuse block and it kept blowing. I traced the wires from the switch after reading the the schematic many times. I got frame power,as you did but after replacing one fuse, smoke came from the CDI. All frame electrical circuits work fine. I’m hoping a new CDI will cure the problem, but considering the cost, I’m afraid the problem might be elsewhere causing the CDI to go bad. I was hoping I could learn on the forum how often the CDI units fail. Any help will be appreciated!
  25. Some people recommend going 1/2 throttle and taking it easy for the first 10 hours/100 miles. After that, change the oil. The engine is tested at the factory and my opinion is that you just don't go open throttle and beat on it for the first 10 hours/100 miles and change the oil maybe at 7-8 hours 70-80 miles. Use the correct oil with additives recommended.
  26. Congrats on your 2019, post some pics! I'm a fan of king quads
  27. Something I've noticed with the AWD on/off operation. When AWD switch is in the on position and the AWD light is on (trans engaged), turning the AWD switch off kills the engine. With trans in neutral, AWD light is off, turning switch off does not kill engine. Since I don't have the operators manual yet, I'm wondering if this is normal operation? Thanks, Ray
  1. Load more activity

×
×
  • Create New...