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  1. Past hour
  2. update on this one- sold it a while back for $3200. miss it bad but hopefully ill run across a good deal on a 500 again. fingers crossed
  3. update here to close it our- i promise this is the last of this thread from me- lol sold the bike with the oil leak for $550. never tried to figure out where it was coming from. trying to move these smaller project out to make some room for future builds..
  4. just an update: never got this thing running again- didnt want to put anymore $$$$ into it. sold for $500 needing a fuel pump and a intake rocker (and to clarify, i dont rip ppl off- told the guy all i know about it)👍
  5. Yesterday
  6. looks like the classic rancher 350 4x4 to me
  7. yea i would be concerned too.. things dont just go wrong on any make of motor like that
  8. Thanks! I will do this soon after the change of the lower support arm.
  9. Agree this! Found almost through rubbed wires on mine during a other service work.
  10. Hey guys, thank you for the info and some direction to run through. I really appreciate your time and advice. I will run through your check lists and will let you know what I come up with. Like I said before, it is going to be something stupid, I hope. By the way, I replaced all the electrical in the machine, even the cdi. I will have to check compression. It has 5000+ miles on it. Does the compression go bad at any particular mileage? Anyway, I will let you know what I find and again, thanks guys.
  11. Maybe but if the engine was running fine other then smoke and all you did were valve seals im a little stumped by the chain just binding up. That only happens when you are 180 out and a collision happens or no oil. Its just odd to me.
  12. Last week
  13. Not sure why it happened, I suppose just stretched chain. And then got bound and jumped time?
  14. That sucks but have you found out why this happened? One would have to hope it was just a locked up chain. The only way to test the piston, valves etc for compression would be you have to fill that cylinder head with air pressure and see how it holds. Even if you have to rig an air compressor hose to the fitting from your leak down gauges that goes into the spark plug hole and set it to 90 psi and fill the head up.
  15. Yea it’s toast, went ahead and ordered new chain and tensioner. Also ordered an oil pump chain, it seemed to have a lot of slack. Figured it wouldn’t be bad idea while I had the clutch pulled off. I do believe the valves are fine!!! I pulled the rocker assembly and put some air to it. I don’t hear any air escaping. So fingers crossed. I couldn’t get my leak down gauges to work.... so couldn’t get real numbers.
  16. Accidentally got the right one!! I would never be so lucky! Keep us posted on how it works out.
  17. Wow!! I knew it, jumped. That chain looks fucked. I would double check the chain is free of any more kinks like the one you see and if any links are not moving well then replace it. Hopefully no damage to the piston or valves!!!!! Its a long shot but hopefully none.
  18. oof... tough break. is that chain screwed? if it is i would try a new chain and rotate the motor slowly by hand without a spark plug and try and listen for any valve smack... if it does have a bent valve, you wont be getting compression and youll have to replace those😒
  19. Well got home early and went ahead and pulled the clutch cover. Yea it jumped time.... Such an odd time to decide to jump time, right after redoing the upper end. Hoping it didn't get happy and smack a valve, not sure if they are interference or not?
  20. @T_bell40 I like to take the bolts out if the airbox so it will push back a bit, helps me get the carb out easier. Waste of time to try to clean without removing IMO
  21. Thanks man! Yea you can get to the timing mark on the flywheel, but I’m gonna have to pull the whole front cover to see the cam and timing chain assembly. I’ll update when I get it pulled.
  22. okay. just wanted to make sure we didnt leave you hanging
  23. it appears the model Y and K1 represent the years...apparently I'm working on a 2000 atv not 2001 like I thought found an online vin decode page (not automatic)... https://www.suzukiatvforums.com/threads/identifying-your-vin.5662/ my vin comes out to J - japan S - suzuki A - atv A - ATV M - 400-499cc 4 - 4 stroke 2 - design sequence 2 A - design sequence A "123456789ABCDEF...." - this is the 10th design sequence letter of A 0 - check digit y - model year 2000(Y), 2001(1) (or K1) 2 - factory code 107100 - serial number I accidentally bought the correct regulator
  24. found an online vin decode page (not automatic)...but it appears I have a year 2000 quadmaster not 2001 https://www.suzukiatvforums.com/threads/identifying-your-vin.5662/ my vin comes out to J - japan S - suzuki A - atv A - ATV M - 400-499cc 4 - 4 stroke 2 - design sequence 2 A - design sequence A "123456789ABCDEF...." - this is the 10 design sequence letter of A 0 - check digit y - model year 2000(Y), 2001(1) (or K1) 2 - factory code 107100 - serial number
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