cavry

Finally, I'm back at this. I finally removed the cover and had a handful of shattered washers or spacers. There were at least two in two or three pieces each and an E clip worn completely through on one end. I will be removing the engine so I can get to the clutch and shifter parts easily. It's going be a slow project, I'm an old goat with bad hands. Pics hopefully soon. Thanks for the suggestions and remarks.

Cranked engine and towed it with my ReconES to have clutch working and rear wheels moving too. While running and moving it shifted up through the gears fine. Shifting down was tricky as the pedal would not return to center and had to be lifted with my toe two or three times to make the next downshift. Shifting down from 5th, 4th and 3rd was relatively easy, 2nd and 1st were a trial. I'm thinking the Stopper Arm Return Spring is broken. I'll open that cover this evening.

Oil was drained and there were about 4 to 5 oz. of water in the crankcase but no sign of mixing with the oil. I put about 2 qts. of diesel into the crankcase and pulled the engine over by hand 20+ times and then drained that. Then I changed the filter and refilled with fresh oil.

O3 sat a while. Engine is running fine. I got it into neutral, did some general tune-up and cleaning then pulled the shifter pedal up and it locked up and will not release into neutral again. Does anyone have experience with this problem? Thanks for looking and any help. Cavry

After more research i have decided not to use dyneema. The necessity of washing it often after use, watching for small chips of dirt, or rocks watchins for cut strands of fiber and the cost of replacing it if damaged make this seem to be HIGH maintenance and unaffordable for my use.

Has anyone changed the steel cable on a 1500 lb. winch to dyneema? Was this a positive move? I live in the mountains of Ga. near the Ga/NC line. There is lots of rocky ground, rough creeks and gullies, and too much red clay. I've used the steel multiple times (a couple of those I needed my doubling block) with no negative outcomes. Anyway, are there benefits to Dyneema? What is the working life? Does the cost justify the effort to change?,

Thanks to all. The '02 Bayou300B is up and running well. I still need to rebundle the wiring. Headlights are working now. I did go ahead and install a new solenoid while I had the body panels off. I also rebuilt the front brake master cylinder. As soon as I get it cleaned up and buttoned up I'll get a few pics posted. Again, thanks to all. Cavry

New OEM switch in place and starter is working well. Headlights are dead. I'll get to that tomorrow. Brakes and master cylinder are next.

Yep, it sat outside for years. It's been "down" for at least 5 years.

I'll be using gasket seal or silicone when I put it on the handlebar.

Solenoid is fine. Start, kill, and headlight switch is badly rough inside. Copper contacts are black, metal retainer plates are rusted. A new switch has already been ordered.

I finally got to the wiring today. The Bayou will start easily. I now have to find a dirty or bad connection or check the start button. The solenoid works fine. It fires 3 or 4 times and then will not start unless I jump it straight to the starter post. The critical thing is that it starts and runs well when it does. Again Mech, thank you for your help.

This is much clearer and understandable than the diagram I found. Again, Thank You. Cavry

I'll try that in a few minutes. That still leaves the heavy brown wire. Thank You.

Wiring shows White and Brown to solenoid blades. Then a black wire from starter circuit relay to solenoid. I am confused, where is that black wire supposed to connect? Thanks for any help Cavry