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  3. No alternator, I have a stator and two wires come off of that to the rectifier/regulator for the charging circuit, two wires provide AC to the CDI box and two wires provide the pulse from the pickup to the CDI box. The later models have an alternator that provides DC to the charge circuit and the CDI I believe. I've attached the schematic I've been using that seems to match what I've got. Thanks
  4. The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new. Color looks great and seems very fresh. Grease is a must when reassembling.
  5. Thanks Frank, Mine must be an 'early 95' because that is not the wiring diagram for my quad. I don't have an alternator and I have a 4 wire ignition switch. Completely different CDI as well. My Y/R wire is grounded when either the kill switch is off or the key is off (or both) and open when in 'ready to run' mode. I don't see any constant 12v feed to my CDI, and as I see it there shouldn't be. I've swapped the good bike's CDI to the bad but I don't recall swapping the bad one to the good, I can try that tonight but I'm pretty sure it'll work. I get the same intermittent spark with both CDI's and both coils. Thanks!!
  6. Right, I may as well open up the rear diff while at it. The u joint didn’t look like that when I first pulled it apart; it seems to have developed surface rust while sitting exposed to the air apparently. It’s in garage, but non heated. I turn on a couple of infared heaters when I go out there to work. I’ll definitely still hit it with some fresh grease before putting it all back together.
  7. That drive shaft looks new. The u joints need grease. Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end. Where the rear differential and the shaft meet? So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low. Might as well take a looK while it’s open.
  8. Where can I get a copy of the wiring diagram for my buyang 49cc eagle 100
  9. Does anybody know where I can get a copy of the wiring diagram for my buyang 49cc eagle 100
  10. Didn’t have much time to work on it tonight; not really anything else I can do until parts arrive. Snapped a few more pictures. U joint inside of swingarm. Side view of gear housing with swingarm removed. Closer view of backside of gear housing.
  11. The cdi needs voltage to work. Take a look at this pic. If this is your diagram for a US made 1995 I circled and arrowed the area. The brown wire coming into the switch should be 12v +. It should send voltage to the Y/R wire which goes to the cdi. That Y/R wire should have 12 v at the cdi. The cdi gets its pick up coil signal from the Bk/W wire coming from the pick up coil and gets amplified and sent out of the cdi via G/W to the secondary ignition coil that supplies spark to the plug. Make sure your grounds are good including the main frame ground and on the secondary coil at the spark plug. The cdi has diodes inside them that can go bad and create stray voltage. Not sure if you tested the cdi on another bike but I have. A feeling it’s the cdi.
  12. ...Also, the way I read it, the CDI will function as long as it has a ground, AC from the stator and a pulse from the pickup, as long as the yellow/black wire is open. The kill switch and the key will both ground the yellow/black if in the off position. I've tested this and it all seems right. Also, now I'm getting a spark every now and then, usually when I just start the starter or when I just let off. Continuous cranking yields no spark. I swapped the coil and CDI from the good one again tonight, no luck. thanks
  13. Ok thanks, Stator not shorted to ground, fuse is good, (starter works). I tested the ground side of the kill switch but not the hot side, but I don't think the starter turns with the switch off. Also, it's a 1995 model, I don't see where the CDI actually gets any power, I tested my good bike and I don't have 12V anywhere on the CDI with the key on. I'll keep probing.... thanks for the input!!
  14. Last week
  15. Nothing worse then waiting for parts! Here is a topic on differential fluids. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-equipment/atv-and-utv/sport/synthetic-atv-utv-transmission-and-differential-fluid/?zo=34396
  16. The wait is on for parts to arrive that I ordered. Man I hate waiting for parts. Any answer to my earlier question on what fluid to use to refill rear gear box?
  17. It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you. The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them. See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out.
  18. I kind of wish I would have went ahead and ordered new seal when I ordered the boot since I was already paying shipping. I'll go ahead and pull that cover off of the gear housing tonight and check O ring on backside of it. I see an O ring in parts diagram, maybe I should go ahead and replace it and the seal. The u joint in the swingarm seems good and tight still. Earlier in the thread Frank you had mentioned about my picture of where the swingarm met up with the gear housing looked like it was off adjustment wise; however I don't see anyway of adjusting that.
  19. Man that’s a tough gremlin you got going on. So the only few things that could be doing this then is a short within the wiring maybe along the frame ? Could be a bad connection on one of the plugs even the single pin and sleeve plugs that are all over the harness. Maybe take them apart, clean up and add some dialectic grease and reconnect. Check to see that your ignition switch is ok, I’ve seen some people find that wiggling the switch allowed the bike to fire up due to poor contacts within the switch that sends voltage to the cdi. Some only have two wires, a brown and white, if so then it’s good if your getting dash lights but check thats your model. You tested continuity on the kill switch that it’s opening and closing yes ? You checked continuity from each phase of the stator to ground yes ? (Should get no continuity) Main fuse on the starter relay? Im just throwing random shit out there and trying to jog my memory from my bayou.
  20. OK, I swapped the regulators and still no spark, so far I've swapped CDI, spark plug, coil, regulator. I've checked resistance on stator, and pickup. I have lights, starter, etc, it's just an ignition issue, not sure what I'm missing, I'd like to make sure I test everything I can before I start taking side covers off. Thanks!
  21. I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together. The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case. I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. How do the universal joints look and feel ? You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.
  22. Yeah the earlier picture with boot still on was from the side view. The one just posted above is from rear view looking forward. I had just pulled the swingarm off. The driveshaft simply slid off the splined shaft pictured. I’ll try to get more pictures tomorrow evening. The plastic ring is listed as oil seal in parts diagram. Like I mentioned above, it wasn’t fully seated around the splined shaft; it was crocked around the shaft. I shoved it back into the opening as far as it would go. I’m just not sure what would keep it from working it’s way back again though.
  23. I’m sorry I thought you took it apart and screwed the nuts on for safe keeping. So that drive shaft pops on and what holds it in place? It looks different from the previous pic you posted. A lot dirtier lol. So you unbolted the swing arm and backed it off ? I have only taken the bayous apart and they are very similar so forgive me for being a little confused. Post a few more pics if you can.
  24. There is no O ring there. What is pictured is a hard plastic plug like ring. Do I need to take that cover off that has the 4 bolts and look for an O ring?
  25. I wouldn’t focus on the irregularities of the spinning readings. The coil is supposed to be tested while it’s not spinning and away from the magnet. It has to be on ohms and you should get pretty much the same number every time you test it. If it’s within spec it’s good. Then the same tests should be done on each phase of the stator coil wires. Between phases (wires) and then from each phase to ground for continuity. If all that comes back good then it’s something else.
  26. Yeah it ohms as good with the magnet on the far side away from the coil but again I get crazy readings when I turn it over, from -0.02 to 6.85 ohms at 20k
  27. Maybe onto something, reach out to Gatorade maybe pitch it to them ! 😂 I can see all the athletes jumping in Gatorade sausage lmao. Going to have a lot of pissed off Italians lol.
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