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  2. I think maybe someone tried to weld the pedal onto the shaft. The shifter bottomed out in back, so I couldn't shift out of neutral. So I loosened it to turn it cc forward, then tightened it as tight as possible. Now it slips. Took the floor assembly off in order to get the pedal off the shaft to see the splines but can't slide it off, that's why I'm wondering if it got welded at some point. Look like it?
  3. Yeah it definitely slips but it's dry and it appears to be in good shape. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  4. sounds like what happens when the belt gets wet, I would need to ride it to tell...😎 Have you checked the belt maybe it's slipping?
  5. Yeah it doesn't do it in low. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  6. Is there any difference when you put it into low gear?
  7. That didn't decode for me. Check out this similar topic:
  8. Great video! So you have 2016 and 2017 yamaha Grizzly 700 atvs it looks like by the title and video. very cool. They seem to go through everything with ease. How's the ride and do they have power steering?
  9. Are they selling name brand manufacturers or Chinese off brand? EDIT: Just checked and this is what I see: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/search/atv
  10. Last week
  11. Are the atvs at tractor supply any good do they have a warranty.thanks
  12. I have a kazuma falcon vin can anyone decode it I need to know the size of the motor the vin is kzmxcdac762000804 thanks
  13. I have a twin of this that I use for parts, that will work on a 1988 LT-F250 2WD . Any thing that is unique to the 4WD may be available. ie choke cable, carb etc. I have the from brake master cylinder and handle complete front driveline, short of the rt ft inboard drive axle, I will keep the engine top half but the complete gear case and engine lower unit will become available. As I said though anything that ill work on my 2 wheel I plan on keeping. Let me know if any of this is feasible for you. Hope it works out for you. Tim.
  14. I've been stalking around on here for awhile now and searching around for the issue I'm experiencing and haven't seen anything that matches. Any help would be greatly appreciated. So every so often (more often than not now) when I first accelerate it sounds and feels like something is slipping. It does it more frequently when starting to ride forward and on uneven ground. It doesn't do it in reverse at all. It feels and sounds like a chain is slipping but the KingQuad doesn't have a chain best I can tell. I've taken apart the clutch, cleaned it and the rollers, reassembled, and it still does this. I haven't gone beyond the belt/clutch area in disassembly and I was really hoping not to, but I'm at a lost.... Has anyone else had this issue, any idea what it is? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  15. Thanks Dave. I will try that. Appreciate the quick reply!
  16. The bolts are most likely metric.. Find a standard bolt that is about the same size and then take it to a hardware store that stocks metric bolts. Choose metric ones that most closely compare to the standard bolt and then pick up a couple of each metric pitch for that bolt. I'd get bolts on either side of the one you take to compare. Without having one to compare, I'd guess the bolts are likely between 8mm and 10mm ( ~5/16" to ~3/8") and could be either a coarse or fine metric pitch. Here is a Kazuma parts source https://www.kazumausaparts.com/?gclid=CjwKEAjw_dTMBRDHusz5vZaV1g0SJACkjOf8bkdBoGa1G0Em4Jr3ufgXmL6eCTZRcEa7IFt6mH-5uhoC4kfw_wcB you could check with but most likely it would be cheaper to pick up a selection of bolts locally and see what fits.
  17. Hello. I'm new to the group and searched for this answer, but was unable to find anything. My son has a Kazuma Falcon 90 and both of the bolts that hold the foot rest assembly to the frame have backed out and are lost... I've scoured the net looking for what size bolts that those are likely to be, to no avail. Hoping that someone might have a guess so I can get this repaired. Thanks in advance. -T
  18. Where is the cdi located on suzuki quad master 500 just looking for general location of cdi box.year 2000 are they hard to get off. Thanks Ray
    This file is 4.37 MB and only includes the first two chapters of the service manual: General Information and Periodic Maintenance. If that's all one requires, this file is fine. Browsing the internet, I found out that the complete file, which includes all 11 chapters is 126 MB and just about impossible to find.
  19. products The new line-up includes the 700L Flashlight, Hard Hat Headlamp, and Pocket Flood Light, powered by REDLITHIUM® USB – an extremely compact, removable battery technology. View the full article
  20. The best way to check for bad valves is to find TDC at compression stroke and then wiggle the rocker arm. If there is play, the valve is good. If not, a new seat must be cut and new valve installed. I've tried dozens of times to install a new valve in an old seat, but 100% of the time I've had to continually replace that valve. It seems there is no way around cutting a new seat.
  21. Good points! Concerning carbs, I keep some guitar wire around for cleaning jets and small holes. Chemicals don't do much. Regulators are common problems on these machines and if it runs better with the lights on, that's the problem. I bought the biggest baddest regulator Rick's Electronics sells because I fried 2 OEM ones. Rev limiters can sometimes be improved by using an older CDI, but the problem with rpms is the weak valve springs. One of the first models of these machines (250 model) had ovate springs which are super-stiff. Zuki only used them one year and I forgot which year since that was 5 years ago for me. If there are changes in the spark due to heat, then it means a coil somewhere has lost enamel due to age. That is common on the 80's models 230 quadsports that start fine when cold but are impossible when hot. Alternatively, cold starting problems could mean worn intake valve.
  22. Wow a lot of carb/reving issues might as well put my two cents in! I have had a few bikes do this. And to all the "carb specilist" as I feel I am lol to my surprise I have found that even though we clean, rejet, rebuild!!! There is or may be a blockage that still exists within an area you cannnot access! I've been through this over and over and when I finally tried a new carb bang the bike fired right up and worked beautyful go figure. I have cut one carberator open just to see and found that these things have a lot more going on inside then we may think. Fuel peckocks and filters are also a major factor in this type of situation and are a major contributor to some of these fuel delivery problems but most likely time for a new carb. Yes it sucks but most likely will clear up a lot of issues by replacing the carb. Also I recommend monitoring the spark. I was pointed in the direction thanks to this site of a device that you can put in between the spark plug and coil wire to monitor you spark intensity and to see if any changes happen after the bike heats up. This will save you a lot of time in diagnosing weather its electrical or a fuel delivery issue. And it's a cheap tool to buy. Lastly, take a look at all rev limiters these things suck! Over design and complicate things with the thought of safety (a good thing) but also are the culprit of a lot of backfiring and sputtering problems. Good luck.
  23. Yes. Kill switch was fine. Ended up just removing it. Taking a break from it but I will look at wiring really close. Thanks for your input
  24. Quick question did you happpen to check the kill switch control on the inside ? I had a similar problem and took the controller apart only to find rust and broken parts due to water that somehow got inside and would short out. I would follow that and any safeties that are in place like brake locks that need to be in place prior to starting. These are common problems that intermittently knock the spark out. Lastly it could be a wire that's lost its outer insulation and copper is rubbing against the frame at some point in the harness where any twisting of the harness happens like aroujd the front end where the neck of the frame is. Take a deep breath and step back for a second. You will figure this out. It's just a process of elimination. As far as changing all four components together well I think that's nonsense. I changed my stator and cdi. No spark. Re installed the old cdi with the new stator and she fired right up. Good luck.
  25. atvs How to survive one of the world's toughest races Rick Cecco has made the trek to Romania the last three years to race what is arguably the most difficult ATV race in the world, dubbed CFMoto Hunt-the-Wolf. Most other… View the full article
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