BruceG

Really great advise and info. It all makes absolute sense. I did have a problem with the float needle in the beginning. I replaced it and reconditioned the carb. This is also when I did the top end. Thanks guys

I changed the oil and the problem went away. How does fuel get into the oil?

Thank you for this info. The Quad is at my holiday home, so cannot check oil levels etc at the moment. It was not overfilled as the bike was not using oil and therefore had not been topped up in a while. However, it is possible that fuel got into the oil and I will check this. I have just done the top end so it is possible that the rings are not yet seated properly. If this is the case, I am not sure how to fix this as the bike will only run for a minute or two before dying. I will check the breather pipes for blockages etc.

Thank you for your insight. I will check on the oil in the sump when I get a chance.

Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?

Living in South Africa, I do not have all the options that you guys do. We do not have Amazon, E-Bay or Partzilla in this country. Freight charges from the US or Europe are exorbitant. I either have to buy from a local Yamaha dealer (at silly prices) or order directly from China (AliExpress). AliExpress is so cheap that it makes up for the freight charges. For example a complete set of brake pads / shoes for my four ATVs cost approximately US$ 100 including freight and VAT.

I agree with MarkinAR. Critical parts especially when they are part of a serious re-build need to be OEM. It is not worth spending hours rebuilding an engine only to find that a cheap part failed (such as rings) or perform badly. However, brake pads / shoes and many other parts from China are perfectly acceptable and cost a fraction of the price. It is also important to remember that many of the OEM parts are made in China and are often sourced from the same Chinese manufacturer. I have also been very successful with carburetor kits (including jets) for all of my ATVs. It may be worthwhile creating a list of quality Chinese manufacturers on a forum on this platform.

Apologies the year of manufacture for your Blaster is 1988 and not 1998 as I indicated in my previous post. It was a typo.

It is a 2 stroke. Yamaha Blaster Specs Engine Type: 195cc, 2-Stroke Single cylinder, Air Cooled Bore x Stroke: 66mm x 57mm Compression Ratio: 6.6:1 Carb: Mikuni 26mm Ignition: CDI Yamaha Blaster Horsepower: 17HP Starting System: Kickstart Transmission: 6-Speed Manual Clutch Drive Train: 2WD Sealed O-Ring Chain Yamaha Blaster Top Speed: 55 MPH Suspension/Front: Independent Double Wishbone, 7.1in. w/ 5-way Preload Adjustment Suspension/Rear: Swing Arm, 7.1in. and Threaded Preload Adjustment Brakes/Front: Dual Hydraulic Disc Brakes/Rear: Hydraulic Disc Tires/Front: AT21 x 7-10 Tires/Rear: AT21 x 10-8 L x W x H: 68.3in. x 40.7in. x 40.9in. Yamaha Blaster Oil Capacity: 650ml (0.67 Quarts) Wheelbase: 43.3in. Yamaha Blaster Seat Height: 29.1 inches Ground Clearance: 4.7in. Fuel Capacity: 2.4 Gallons Yamaha Blaster Weight: 324 Lbs. Using the info below, yours was manufactured in Japan in 1998. Step 1 Locate the VIN on your Yamaha. The VIN is typically found below the handlebars and located on the steering stem. If you do not find the VIN on the steering stem, check the vehicle frame for a small metal plate that will display the VIN. Step 2 Decode the meaning of your Yamaha motor vehicle VIN by breaking down the unique pattern of numbers and letters. For example, if the VIN starts with "4" or a "1" then your Yamaha was made in America, a "2" stands for Canada and "3" stands for Mexico. Vehicles made in Korea, Japan, England, Germany, Italy and Brazil would have vehicle identification numbers beginning with "K", "J", "S", "W", "Z" and "9", in that order. The secondary character of the VIN reflects the motor vehicle manufacturer, which would be a letter "C" for all Yamaha motor vehicles. Step 3 Locate the third VIN digit. This stands for the manufacturer division that produced the motor vehicle. Step 4 Notice VIN numbers four through eight. These 5 digits reflect the features found on the motor vehicle. Step 5 Observe the ninth figure on the VIN. This particular digit is unique and used as security to guarantee a valid VIN number. Step 6 Look at the 10th figure of the VIN. This stands for the year of the vehicle model. From the years 1988 to 2000, the tenth VIN figure would be "J" to "Y" and thereafter the 10th figure was changed to reflect a number. Decode the last seven figures of the VIN following these rules: the 11th digit is the plant facility where the vehicle was assembled. Digits twelve through seventeen stand for the order that the vehicles were assembled.

I would definitely change the engine oil first to see if hat resolves the issue.

I agree. This site is fantastic. Everyone is so willing to help and there is no substitute for experience.

Very nice. Thanks for the pics.

Thank you for this info. It just seemed weird as my other three Yamaha ATVs all need to be in Neutral before engaging reverse. I am sure that it is the exact same transmission

There is a separate reverse lever. If the quad is in neutral the reverse lever will not move but if you change to 1st gear, then the reverse lever will move and allow you to change into reverse. Of course you need to simultaneously be pressing the rear brake pedal.

I live in South Africa, so not really an option. I have not seen anything like it here