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mikeexplorer

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mikeexplorer last won the day on September 14

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About mikeexplorer

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  • Birthday 10/20/1967
  • Location Scranton, PA, United States

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  1. Assuming your machine is a similar year as my old one (2007) Its not hard to remove the pod. Under the front instrument cluster you will see screws that have to be taken out. (They face the front of the machine) Next unscrew the ignition switch, it also hold the cluster in place. (Third picture shows that) This will allow you to flip the cluster over to reveal the two nuts that are holding the pod in place. Unplug the pod and take these two nuts out and then you can pull out the pod. Mike
  2. Yes you can, you remove the one way bearing in the secondary clutch.
  3. Annual ATV Poker Run. Information attached.
  4. Rebuild, you can get a brush kit from rick's motorsports. I had to do this on my 2007 400, if I remember right, it was like $35? (this was a few years ago) https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInYrsxfCr6wIVNxatBh23-AgLEAAYAyAAEgJYk_D_BwE
  5. The service manual gives you the specs for what the voltage should be at the primary side of the coil, but you need a meter that can record peak voltage to see it. It must be in range since you are seeing spark. Make sure its a strong spark. Yes the starter may be spinning slower under load if the brushes are wearing out, but check connections and clean them since any corrosion will cause the same thing. Mike
  6. I meant to measure the peak voltage the primary side of the coil is getting. On my 366 which would be similar it is around 375 volts. Starting to look like the CDI may be bad if your only seeing battery voltage
  7. Now you need to look at the schematic. I attached it. The position sensor's output is routed into the CDI box, out of that it goes to the coil to produce the spark. The actual output from the sensor might not be the issue, it is a trigger signal to the CDI to produce an output voltage to the coil. If I remember right, its around 350 volts. (your service manual will tell you this) I was troubleshooting a 2010 366 two weeks ago for hard starting issues and remember testing the coil. You need to be able to first measure the position sensor's output when your cranking and when it finally starts, does the voltage change? Next, check the primary side of the coil, the procedure is in the manual as well, but you need a meter that can record the peak voltage since its not a constant output. You need to see if the output from the CDI is changing when your cranking to when it finally catches and starts. Although you said you have a new battery, I would have it load tested to verify, places like Autozone will do it for free. As a quick test, connect jumper cables from your quads battery to a vehicle battery BUT DO NOT START THE VEHICLE! Then try to start the quad. The increased cold crank amps will tell you if its the battery. On a side not, check battery connections and such for corrosion. Since its an older machine, going over the connections and cleaning them and adding some dielectric grease would be a good idea, voltage could be dipping down due to resistance caused by corrosion. EFI machines are finicky when it comes to voltage. You can get some electronic contact cleaner spray and dielectric grease at any auto parts store. Mike
  8. When you replaced the coil, did you buy the whole unit (including the spark plug cap?) or just the coil? I would measure the resistance of the cap only. You mentioned a 20K reading which is high for the coil, but if your including the cap, that will throw the reading off. Your attachments were too small to read. Looks like your stator is outputting as it should. I would check the regulator. Once the machine is started, check the voltage to make sure it does not exceed 15 volts. High voltage will cause EFI machines to act weird. I have not known of issues with the stator and position sensors. One test you can do is when it does not want to start, pull the spark plug and verify you do indeed are getting spark. Another thing to check is your fuel pump, make sure you have enough PSI for the injector. Since your machine is older, I would suspect the fuel pump is not providing enough PSI for the injector to work. Mike
  9. I modified it before even using it. The pump that comes with it uses 4 D batteries, but to turn it off and on is the stupid little red button on the box. Plus the base of the pump won't fit in the jug. So I bought a sprayer pump with the lowest flow rate (1.2 gal/min) and turned down the pressure sensor to a low pressure, then added a ball valve inline to the shower head so when you turn off the water, the pump shuts off. Power for the pump comes from the battery mounted on the Jumping Jack using the 2 pin trailer wires. The tent was designed for a shower bag only so I zip tied a clip to the shower head and just hang it from the hook. Mike
  10. A camping option, portable shower. Used this for the first time last weekend and it worked well. Mike
  11. Snow Shoe Rails to Trails held their annual chicken BBQ event. Food sold out in one hour! (400 dinners) They had a drive through option for those who were not riding. Weather was warm, but cooled off decently at night. Was good to finally get out camping and riding. Mike
  12. It may only need a top end, if it sucked in dust it ruined the rings. I had this happen to my 2007. The later years with it since it had high miles it needed to be bored. Ran great after that and I sold the machine. Mike

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