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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2024 in all areas

  1. I had an old Yamaha 250 dirt bike that had the stator crap out. Dealer wanted $300 for it. I couldn't afford that, so I rewound it myself for about $20. I just bought a spool of the same diameter wire, made a jig to attach the part to my wife's sewing machine flywheel, began winding on wire to get the same fill. Worked fine. tom (cheap bastard)
    2 points
  2. I'd wriggle all the wires as a first step. If it is a chafed insulation and you disturb it and move it so it's not touching anymore it can be the real mongrel thing trying to find it after that and you end up with an ongoing and intermittent problem. If it's a faulty component it will always be faulty.. plenty of time to find that.
    2 points
  3. Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts. Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.
    2 points
  4. I have had good luck with Caltric parts as well, but i havent used one of their carbs.
    2 points
  5. I have this exact same problem on my2012 800r xmr and after checking everything over I determined the the inner sheave bushing on the secondary was worn out. This will cause the helix to wear and eventually break. These 2 parts are available aftermarket. This will fix your hard shift problem.
    1 point
  6. I think they are a bit light for a sprocket circlip, but they won't break. My pair are more than fifty years old and been used a lot and are still doing the job.
    1 point
  7. Oh yeah. I've got a set of those. I think you'll find they are fairly small tips, good for piston circlips and brake cylinders, circlips about fifteen mill diameter. They'll do a sprocket circlip though. They'll be 0.047" which is close as to 1mm.
    1 point
  8. Not exactly sure what size the holes are but that sounds about right.
    1 point
  9. Looks very well made, should work well.
    1 point
  10. it does sound like a loose battery connection, seen that happen as you described many times
    1 point
  11. Since all the lights went off when it made the clunk noise and didn't start, it means the voltage dropped very low, which is why the starter didn't work, and since it started two hours later the battery can't have been flat, so it must have a bad connection somewhere. You should check the battery cables and the smaller wires going to the fuses and switches are tight everywhere, on the battery, on the body or engine, positive and negative. The battery cables, and wires, can get bad contact where the wire crimps into the metal terminals as well, and to find that you can inspect them, and wriggle them, and/or do what's known as a "voltage drop test". To do the voltage drop test you attach a volt gauge from one end of the cable/wire to the other end of the cable you want to test, and when you press the start button that gauge should stay reading zero volts. If it shows a voltage when you are pressing the start button then it's because there's a bad connection somewhere and some of the power is going through the gauge. Because the bad connection might be in the crimped terminal or the connection between the terminal and the bolt it's attached to though you need the gauge right on the bolt/engine/starter solenoid stud, and right on the battery post. It's also possibly a bad/dirty switch, either key or kill switch. To do a voltage drop test across them you attach the gauge with the key/switch off and it will show battery voltage, but when you turn the switch on it should bypass all the power going through the gauge and the voltage should drop to zero then.
    1 point
  12. Clean primary clutch "one way bearing" pin+spring unit = That is between plate's... When it start to stuck = You loose "neutral".. It will get really hard to "shift".. I'm working with brp stuff Transmission oil would not stuck chance really easy...
    1 point
  13. I have only used all balls carb kits, so far working well, most carb kits are so cheap i cant imagine them being high quality and heard good things about the all balls kit.
    1 point
  14. Check out this chart for example https://www.atvwheelsize.com/tech/atv-wheel-size-explained.html You can check what size tire you can buy for this wheel
    1 point
  15. Just my 2 cents,I fully rebuild my 450 foreman. Also rebuilding yamaha grizzly 350 and had 2x others hand all theese need smaller rebuild, but 80 % of repair is needed on older quads are chassis. And I bought various brand parts, and guaranteed to fit and be reliable are Prox, Winderosa, EPI parts, all balls are sh** except cv axle boots. I buy OEM only if I can find them or they are the same price or slightly differs from NON-OEM. Good luck !
    1 point
  16. When I did a lot of remote roaming about on two wheels I used to fit a spare master link over a brake or clutch cable at the bars.
    1 point
  17. Well, it's all back together. My only concern is, I hope I got the clip on the chain link fully. With my failing eyesight I don't have a lot of faith in things such as that. I test drove it and everything seemed fine I just hope the chain stays together. I want to thank everyone for their experienced support through this job! 👍
    1 point
  18. Use manufacturer catalog and find your carb OEM parts number and then search for non OEM version by this same number, and compare photos of your OEM one and non-OEM. New carb prices are insane which no one want to spend. I also like to use non OEM Carb rebuild kits they are really proper made
    1 point
  19. I usually use a small hammer to get the races started in and once in the hole get a piece of iron pipe or socket the right diameter to push it to the correct position, you can hear when it gets there the sound will be different. I have used a punch but feel it goes in evenly with something of the right diameter.
    1 point
  20. Ok. Glad to hear you got it going. Glad it cured all the problems. $150 to plug in some other customers PCM ? Sounds about right.. Why we need to do things our selves. I would have shipped it to you if you'd got it sent to me. Yell out if there's another time. And yeah, this is a good forum. Having the manuals is a big help, friendly people, no pedantic dribble, good mods.. One of the best.
    1 point
  21. The method I use it a hammer and then a punch. Hold the bearing down on the housing and then tap lightly all around the outer bearing race with a hammer. For those axle bearings you don't tap on the inner race, because it will cause the balls to damage the races. If it was a bearing on a shaft though, they you would use a punch and tap on the inner race.
    1 point
  22. Yeah the bearings will go in till they come up against a lip. The seal does have the side with the spring facing inwards. Not sure how far in the seal go but you should be able to see where they ran on the old shaft. If the axle shaft has damage where the seal runs, it's ok to position the seal slightly further in or out so the new one runs on a good surface.
    1 point
  23. Finally got her put together anyone have any tips for keeping these guys running and idling good she won't idle and stay idling she runs fine but I can't quite figure out how to tune the carb right. Was also wondering if anyone knows if the bike needs a battery to run the lights while it's running Snapchat-1889914558.mp4
    1 point
  24. 1999 KVF 400 4x4 with X4S Camso Snow tracks
    1 point
  25. Yeah it should be no trouble. I'd take the chain right off to make sure it didn't somehow mysteriously get drawn around and perhaps bunched up near a crankcase doing some damage. You'd want to keep on eye on ventilation and on the temp if it's in some place without good ventilation.
    1 point
  26. The races seals and O rings are in the Amazon kit, minus the bearing grease, grease is cheap, i prefer Amazon over Ebay for easy returns, if wrong or doesnt fit right and fast shipping.
    1 point
  27. Thanks for the good tips fellas. The main photo just shows the bearings and seals. The small photos to the left shows the races so I'm assuming, I will get those too. I got the sprocket off had to wire axle and sprocket to a post to hold it still. I got lucky and had a couple metal blades for my Super Sawzall. I didn't think that thing would cut that good on bolts like that. Parts won't be here until next week. I guess I might as well put the Stator housing on and adjust the valves. I'll put the new spark plug in after that.
    1 point
  28. You will also need to hammer the old bearing race out and the new one in for the new bearings.
    1 point
  29. Once i get the Bruin 350 repaired, taking it to Rocky Point Mexico to be able to explore the dunes near cholla bay!
    1 point
  30. I don't know about anyone else but I haven't been able to see your videos or that picture P52.. It might be that you need to save them as some other file type before uploading them.. Doh.. Tried again and the photo did open.. As you were...
    1 point
  31. Yeah not sure why but they are always stripped out, remove the wheel , remove the 3 bolts holding on the sprocket protector, 3 more nuts hold the sprocket on the hub, wet them good with PB blaster and hold the back side with vice grips or something similar to get the nut off then you can better evaluate your hub, im sure it can be saved .
    1 point
  32. How were the valves, guides and seats when doing the top end? Did you adjust the valve lash to spec?
    1 point
  33. So it had this same problem before you replaced the carb twice, and did the head up ? Initial impression, since it's popping out the inlet and exhaust, would be that your ignition is failing.. It might be that the ignition timing is going erratic.. I think I'd put a timing light on it and watch the timing and that the spark doesn't fail as I rev it up. Could be the cdi or a wiring fault. You could also check the charging system is regulating as it should.
    1 point
  34. I would check the timing to make sure nothing moved while replacing the cylinder.
    1 point
  35. Oh ok. Some bike bolts do have small heads.. I'd forgotten about them.. 8mm is near enough to 5/16 to work.
    1 point
  36. There are several overlapping transition points in those carbs. Under the butterfly when it's closed there are two holes in the venturi. One hole's exposed to full vacuum and the one nearer the air-cleaner end is at close to atmosphere when they are at a slow idle. Both holes are connected. At idle the idle jet and idle air jet supply fuel/air mix to the idle mixture screw. The screw controls how much of that fuel/air mix gets mixed with the other air, the air coming in through the discharge hole under the slide that's nearer the air cleaner. The highly diluted fuel/air mixture then gets discharged through the discharge hole nearer the engine. Then, as the slide rises a little,fuel starts to get drawn out of both those holes which reduces the amount of air being drawn in through the air cleaner side hole, the air that was diluting the idle mixture, and so it makes that mixture slightly richer, and discharges it out of both holes so it really does supply a heap more fuel. That's the first of the transition points. That transition from one discharge hole to two prevents stumbling just off idle. If we adjust the mixture with the slide too high then fuel is getting discharged through both holes and we have to wind the mixture screw in too far to compensate for that, which then causes a stumble/flat spot when we d try to open the throttle. It's important when adjusting the mixture that we have the slide down as far as possible. Somewhere in that system is probably where your problem lays. The other transition points are controlled by, first the slide cut away, and then the emulsion tube's holes and the capacity of fuel in the drilling the emulsion tube is in. It's important to clean the tiny holes in the emulsion tubes side, and the drilling it goes in if it has crud in it reducing it's capacity for fuel. The tiny holes in the emulsion tube start off being covered with fuel at low throttle settings and that fuel is drawn into the tube along with fuel from the main jet and discharged past the slide needle, but as the fuel consumption increases with throttle opening the drilling starts to empty and more of the tiny holes are exposed allowing air to be drawn through them diluting the mixture being discharged out past the slide needle. Eventually the main jet is controlling the amount of fuel being drawn in and the tiny holes are mixing air into that fuel so that the fuel being discharged past the slide needle is diluted. That process gives a rich mixture as we open the throttle, but then leans it after a short time when the drilling for the emulsion tube is emptied. The overall effect is similar to an accelerator pump. At 1/8 throttle it's probably not transitioning from one hole to two holes under the butterfly. Set the idle speed as low as it can be and keep adjusting the mixture till it's ticking over nice and slow on the idle speed screw, and at the best mixture point, neither too rich or too lean. Then use the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed up to what it's meant to be. Try not to adjust the idle mixture after that. If the jets and the slide cut-away is right, and the float level is right, the two discharge holes should work as an enrichener as you start to open the throttle.
    1 point
  37. I've done that before. It's what I normally recommend.. Swap every brass bit and the slide needle from the oem to the aftermarket and they aftermarket often runs good. There are only a couple of reasons for biffing the oem, badly worn slide or throttle spindle, or seized idle mixture screw(which is I think the most common problem). And the slides have to be pretty worn to be a problem. I suppose you have checked the throttle cable has free play Bobby ? As Gw says, look through the carb and make sure the throttle plate is closed right off. And check the choke is going right off. The choke plungers can be different designs in after market. Some have a needle and some are flat ended.
    1 point
  38. You might check to make sure the throttle plate is going all the way back and not binding open slightly. Other than that good reasearch i have never tried using OEM parts in a chinese carb, really didnt think they would work.
    1 point
  39. I used that all balls kit also , it is a very nice kit and worked well.
    1 point
  40. I just rebuilt a 96 Kodiak carb for a customer which is almost identical. Did you remove the plastic center block the slide glides on? There is an O-ring in there that gets deteriorated and won't allow the venturi pull the correct amount of fuel up from the jets. The All Balls Racing kit I used came with that O-ring. Also did you adjust the linkage arm so when the buttery starts to open it's lifting the slide at the same time?
    1 point
  41. The idle fuel jet has to have the right size air jet to go with it, and they both have to be suitable for the mixture adjusting screw, which can have different diameter and taper needles, and, the main and it's air jet have to be matched and suit the slide, slide needle and discharge/emulsion tube, and both those different fuel ranges, idle and main, both have to be suitable/matched for one other. The low speed air and fuel jets have to suit the air and fuel main jets. And whole carbs, even when everything is set up and mixes well with no flat spots or wasted fuel, needs to matched to the type of engine it's fitted to. Road bike carbs are set up different to work bikes or scramblers. Even twin cam cam engines are different set up to the same engine with a single cam, not because of the cam specifically, but because of the different power band they've used the twin cam or single cam to achieve. It is best to stick with what the manufacturer has gone to so much trouble sorting out for us. Oh yeah. I don't think the ignition timing will be out either.. I was just saying it does make the plugs burn whiter.
    1 point
  42. I very rarely find one of these out of time, those engines are very resiliant and the valves rarely need adjusting, but this one is older and more than likely been rode hard and put up wet many times. Wrong plug will definately do it, i usually just put in the factory recommended plug. Then there is the carb most of the after market carbs that i have seen have 25 jets, which may be right since the aftermarket ones are slightly different, but the OEM one is 22.5 and the kits i have bought also have the 22.5, but it may not be correct in the aftermarket carb. I think i would keep working on the OEM carb, see if you can get it to factory specs. Aftermarket carbs seem to run lean right out of the box even with the 25 jet, so that might be some of your problem. I have noticed the same spitting and sputtering and not smoothe acceleration with them, that is why i have been working to get all of mine back on OEM carbs.
    1 point
  43. Being too advanced with the ignition timing, or having too hotter plug will beoth make the porclain white, but the spitting backfiring out the inlet does sound like lean. Try your hand across the inlet. Oh, and check the air jets are still in the back of the carb. There should be two brass jets you can see right where the air-cleaner fits on.
    1 point
  44. That sounds like a good plan definately the best way. I dont like using easyouts either and i think the smallest one would still be too big.
    1 point
  45. Yeah Gw's right about using the easy-out. If you drill it out too much the easy-out will spread the screw if it's tight and make things worse. Drill it a bit and then try the easy-out. Then if it doesn't turn drill it further. As long as you get the hole real well centered you can drill them fairly thin. I prefer to use an old fashioned egg-beater drill because it's slow and delicate drilling. Heat on the aluminium does help as well.. I've found the most effective part of it though is tapping the outside of that aluminium tube, and if you have thin lube down the hole, the tapping helps it work down the threads even if you don't spread the metal to enlarge the hole. Lube and tap it then drill it, then use an easy-out, or drive a small steel jewelers screwdriver into the hole.. The screwdriver won't spread the hole as much as the easy-out.. if you choose the right size drill and screwdriver.
    1 point
  46. I would try everything possible to get it out, before drilling, that is a tiny screw and would be easy to get into the threads and then the carburetor is ruined. I would soak it completely in a combo mixture of carb cleaner and penetrating oil, and use heat if there is no head left on the screw at all and it down in the hole, then you have to drill a small hole and use the smallest ease out and it still may be too big, i dont like using easeouts but are sometimes necessary.
    1 point
  47. You've got the slide needle "lifted to the top slot" ? I hope you mean you have the needle lifted, which would be with the clip in the lowest groove on the needle. You want the needle raised, not lowered.. Have you completely stripped and checked the carb right over, checked every jet and O ring is in there, and that they seem to be about the right sizes/in the right proportions between the fuel jet and it's corresponding air jet, that the float level is right, and that plenty of fuel is getting in through the float needle ? It will be either not getting enough fuel, or getting too much air.. If you put your hand across the back of the carb and only let a bit of air in between your fingers, will it rev up then ? The genuine carbs nearly always run better than any after=market one. I'd try fixing the old one. I've got the idle mixture screws out before by drilling them. First though, most of the screws are in a sort of aluminium tube, and it's often just a thin walled tube in part. Often at the front side of the screw's tube there is a thin walled bit. If you gently tap that bit, as much as is possible, with a punch and tiny hammer, before you drill the screw out, you can spread the metal and expand the hole slightly. Because the screw is only fat where the threads are, you can expand most of the metal that's around the threads. If you look at a mixture screw you'll see the threads only go down a certain way before the needle starts, and the spring is. That's the part that's seized and we can tap the tube around quite a bit of that. When/if you do drill, don't drill so deep that the drill hits the spring. Drill it first with a very tiny drill and stop if it's not exactly in the center. If it's off center, drill that shallow drilling out with a slightly larger drill so that you can then go back to the smaller drill again and drill at an angle with it to correct the centering. Once the tiny drill is getting across to the center position you enlarge the holes and then go back to the tiny one again. Keep doing that. By putting the tiny drill down a slightly larger hole you can realign things. Once you have a hole going down to the right depth and in the center then you drill it out to a size that will just leave a thin wall of threads and then use an easy-out or a screwdriver driven gently in to wind the weakened screw out. The screws are soft and drill easy. Once the center is out of them they loose their grip in the hole. Oh.. It normally only effects them at revs, but a blocked exhaust won't let it suck air in, and will give a lot of back pressure and so make it spit out the carb. There's a difference though between spitting back out the carb, and backfiring back out the carb. Spitting is back pressure, and backfiring is mainly caused by lean mixture.
    1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. Contrary to what so many conservative Americans think, the Chinese and Asians are just as capable of making quality parts as anyone, and North Americans are just as capable of making junk as the Chinese and other Asians. You want to try to bring some of the manufacturing back to the US? Bring back the tax regime of the'50's where companies and individuals were encouraged to invest and re-invest in the US rather than take their profits and run offshore to invest them while demanding more subsidies from the American taxpayers. Don't blame Asians for the tax and business decisions made at home.
    1 point
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