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  1. 4 likes
    If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community. QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
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    Hi All, I have an 87 lt4wd quadrunner 250 and the choke cable is not there, speedo is frozen, left brake handle is frozen, right brake handle and reservoir is missing but runs good and all gearing works. I'm starting with the choke install. I have the manual downloaded and printed (472pgs) It is hard to see. Any help is welcome, the first thing I did was oil and filter with front diff oil change coming up soon. Thanks RUSTY
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    Chain, are you saying there is no voltage available at your thumb switch? remember, you unplugged everything. I'd go through every plug and elect. connection before looking further.
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    Had a very long winter and now a very long Hot DRY summer which I have a feeling will hamper the rest of our riding season as our state has 23 forest fires going right now and makes me a little nervous about going up into the mountains, Have only been out twice this year which really sucks but know one thing for sure am looking for an ATV with PS and IRS. Love the reliability of the Hondas but they are kicking our but when we go out. The Solid Rear Axle is a killer for the wife, and she's not liking the manual shifts so much this season. Don't want the issues that I've read about with CanAm and sorry but Polaris is not even in the running, everyone that I know that has one has nothing but trouble with it. So not sure what direction to go for sure. So here's a few pics from those two rides, can never get enough of being in these mountains. The trail that we were on in the last few pics was a new trail to us so that was fun, found out that it runs for about 25 miles, as the crow flies, into two other drainages and that will be a blast to explore, love the new trails.
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    You do have to be careful to use the right oil. It has a wet clutch and you have to use the right oil. The one picture is not enough to identify the machine. A front and rear picture could help. It looks like a 2001-2003 machine possibly a 375cc.
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    As far as oil is concerned, you likely can't go wrong with a 10w40 (MA in the specifications) suitable for motorcycles in the engine and a 75-90 hypoid oil in the differentials. According to other forums on engine oils avoid the "Energy conserving" oils. They have friction reducing additives that can screw up wet clutches.
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    Bring the piston up to TDC on compression. Watch the valves as you do it. When it is TDC compression, both valves will be closed. If you take the spark plug out you should be able to see into the cylinder to confirm when the piston is at the top. If you can't see the piston , you can use a dowel or even a pencil to feel for the piston reaching the top.. Be sure to turn the motor over slowly by hand. You don't want to break off the dowel or pencil in the cylinder.When you see (or feel) the piston at TDC then you can look to see what line most closely lines up with whatever indicator there may be. The piston doesn't have to be exactly at TDC to set the valves , but it must be close enough that both valves are closed, and not beginning to open ... There are a few degrees rotation after the intake valves have closed and before the exhaust valves begin to open.
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    Since it is a new carb it should be ok, but check to be sure fuel is getting to it. Tank valve could be blocked or partially blocked.. crap could be in the line , if you have a fuel filter on it , check it is not plugged . For those working on cleaning carbs and jets : instead of using a piece of copper wire or a strand from cable , go to a welding supply store and buy a set of "tip cleaners" they will have various sized cleaner wires that fit pretty much every size orifice you'll find in the carbs. They're much more convenient and better for the job.
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    Did you try the starter fluid test just to make sure its not fuel starving? You had mentioned that it would start and then die out, that's usually lack of fuel
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    Sounds like ajmboy is right on point with this. Question why did you change cdi, stator etc? No spark issue? Reason why I'm asking I went through the same problem with my electrical system "Yamaha" and replaced the same components. Thanks to the help of this forum. However after I Installed the new stator the bike started right up but seemed to run really weird, starting not starting etc so I put the old cdi back in and the bike fired and ran perfectly. Turns out the new cdi did not work correctly with that bike even though it was for that bike but not an oem part. And did you change the coil going to the plug? Shot in the dark but I found mine cracked. Just a few points to check out. Having said all of that I'm going to agree on the carberator problem. I recently took mine apart twice and found the first time I missed a few spots while cleaning. Def take that float needle out and clean it good and a trick I use is taking an old bicycle brake cable and separating the strands cutting one strand off about 6 inches long and use that to get inside the small orafaces of the carb and use the small cans of compressed air that you buy at any local stationary store to blow out he small ports it comes with the small tube to attach to the nozzle. Hope this helps. Good luck.
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    Version 1.0.0


    Service manual for King quads 250 and 300
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    Good points! Concerning carbs, I keep some guitar wire around for cleaning jets and small holes. Chemicals don't do much. Regulators are common problems on these machines and if it runs better with the lights on, that's the problem. I bought the biggest baddest regulator Rick's Electronics sells because I fried 2 OEM ones. Rev limiters can sometimes be improved by using an older CDI, but the problem with rpms is the weak valve springs. One of the first models of these machines (250 model) had ovate springs which are super-stiff. Zuki only used them one year and I forgot which year since that was 5 years ago for me. If there are changes in the spark due to heat, then it means a coil somewhere has lost enamel due to age. That is common on the 80's models 230 quadsports that start fine when cold but are impossible when hot. Alternatively, cold starting problems could mean worn intake valve.
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    Wow a lot of carb/reving issues might as well put my two cents in! I have had a few bikes do this. And to all the "carb specilist" as I feel I am lol to my surprise I have found that even though we clean, rejet, rebuild!!! There is or may be a blockage that still exists within an area you cannnot access! I've been through this over and over and when I finally tried a new carb bang the bike fired right up and worked beautyful go figure. I have cut one carberator open just to see and found that these things have a lot more going on inside then we may think. Fuel peckocks and filters are also a major factor in this type of situation and are a major contributor to some of these fuel delivery problems but most likely time for a new carb. Yes it sucks but most likely will clear up a lot of issues by replacing the carb. Also I recommend monitoring the spark. I was pointed in the direction thanks to this site of a device that you can put in between the spark plug and coil wire to monitor you spark intensity and to see if any changes happen after the bike heats up. This will save you a lot of time in diagnosing weather its electrical or a fuel delivery issue. And it's a cheap tool to buy. Lastly, take a look at all rev limiters these things suck! Over design and complicate things with the thought of safety (a good thing) but also are the culprit of a lot of backfiring and sputtering problems. Good luck.
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    Okay I got this 86 Honda fourtrax 250 and the ignition where u put the key is gone and they were still starting it but it's been setting for years . I'd like too have some help here on getting it started up
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    I agree with @WarPepper go through all your connections and make sure that new battery is charged 😜
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    Welcome to QUADCRAZY!
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    Welcome @WarPepper! post some pics of that warrior, I used to have a 1987 yamaha warrior years ago.
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    Hi Guys, I just got a new to me 98 Big bear 350 4x4 and it needed a starter clutch (one way bearing) so I replaced that. Got it running and painted up. Motor seems to run great but it's a dog getting started and don't want to go up hill without lots of down shifting. If on pavement with wheel turned it doesn't even want to take off. Might I need a new clutch?Thanks for help!
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    This video of BMW engines being manufactured in China very well illustrates where all the unskilled repetitive jobs have gone, and why they're not coming back in America or anywhere else. What BMW has done in China is being repeated by every industry everywhere. If it can be automated, it will be and except for a handful of operators the only people employed by those businesses will be tradesmen maintaining the robots. Education and trades training is far more important today than it has ever been.
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    If you want new rims , all you need to do is choose the brand and style you want and tell the dealer what they are to fit . If you are looking at used rims you need to know the bolt pattern and the offset to know if you can use them .. Here is a site that tells you how to measure rims to find the specs on it , ans even handier charts showing rim specs for a whole range of quads by manufacturers .. Look up your Kodiak to get the rim specs , and then compare them to other makes to see what ones interchange. http://www.mud-throwers.com/atv_wheel_chart
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    There's a service manual in our downloads section. To find the Suzuki manuals and others, click on the (and 9more) under the ATV service manuals to open a list of makes. Here's the link to 2008 model which should be the same for your 2009.
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    So if the starter sounds like its spinning but not turning the motor over, it's not engaging. My first guess would be you have a bad starter. If the starter was clicking then maybe the starter solenoid would be bad but the fact that you hear it spinning it may have something wrong with the pinion gear. Or, it could be the flywheel which has to engage with the pinion gear to turn the engine. Is the starter position adjustable at all? I would pull the starter our to inspect. Here's a picture of a typical automotive style starter
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    – Maxxis/Elka/Liquid Wrench/Honda’s Joel Hetrick continued his success yesterday, July 29, with a 1-1 performance at the RedBud National in Buchanan, Michigan. View the full article
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    Yes thanks Dave for the reply, when I opened it up The keyway was missing, Looks like a Idiot put a rivet in near the damaged case to try and keep the guide in place. The lower guide fell out and wont stay on...I probably have to find a good left side engine case for it to function! The person I bought it from said he rebuilt the top end but now I'm afraid to open it up! YIKES!!!
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    You my boy davefrombc. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I appreciate it. Thank you.
  30. 1 like
    According to a post in another site : Try looking on the upper frame tube on the rear left side under the wheel well. As Frank says .. There's one somewhere on the frame. Try looking for a number on the motor too. It might be possible to id it from that .
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    Has to be there look on the frame on the front end and on the swing arm also. It is most likely on upper left frame under the fender. Take a piece of sandpaper if you have to but it's there.
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    Best way to figure out is the vin# usulaly the tenth digit there is a number or letter. That can be cross referenced. Try and post a pic for starters.
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    Mines and Meadows, Wampum PA
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    If your compression is down around 40 PSI then there may be nothing wrong with the clutch. . The engine isn't producing the power necessary for it to work properly. Check the valves and gaskets first as Frank mentioned. Bring the motor up to specs and then see if you still have clutch problems.
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    This usually happens when the float in the carb is stuck in the down position. It's meant to not flood the engine so it comes out of the overflow tube. You can try to tap the side of the bottom portion of the carb and it should pop the fioat back to its normal position. This however should be looked at. Take the carb apart and adjust the float it's a little technical with regard to how the adjustment is done but can be walked through. Also the float can have a puncture and is sunk in the bowl thus allowing fuel to flood the bowl. Or something holding the float pin open.
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    Most likely it's due for a change based on the year and what sounds like is happening. I changed mine because I felt the same type of thing. A little bit of slipping that I had as well. Plus it's a 2000 figured it can't hurt. I was very happy afterward. The bike grabbed much better and up/down hill were 100% better. As far as what to change I only changed plates and springs.
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    Great to learn you got it running ok.. I see with that picture it is the rotor itself that is keyed to the shaft and the gear behind bolts to it, so now I know why there was no mention of how it was timed.
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    Interesting product and idea. Here is the video and link
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    Since it works as a magneto, I would say after. Ignition systems usually fire a few degrees before TDC to give maximum power. The higher the rpm, the earlier the spark . . Low rpm motors sometimes use a retarded spark for bottom end power . The magnet of the trigger pad should pass the pickup before the piston reaches TDC to produce the advanced spark. The manual should specify the timing , and I would suspect there should be a timing mark on the gears.
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    OK... That is not good .. Check to see if possibly the key on the rotor has sheared and allowed it to turn on the crankshaft. That would explain why the magnet is nowhere near the trigger coil at TDC compression. "Dumping the clutch" several times could have caused the motor to abruptly drop in RPM putting a lot of inertial torque on the rotor subsequently shearing the key ..
  42. 1 like
    I had one of these Yamaha Kodiaks but a 450 and after it sat for a while, the float pin in the carb became corroded causing the float to be stuck up. It would startand run out of fuel in the bowl. I would check your carb. When it's just cranking, spray some starter fluid into the air intake. If it starts, it's fuel starved. * Topic moved to Yamaha ATV forum.
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    Make sure the quad is in neutral, check there is power to the ignition switch, then the process of elimination starts at the battery positive and ground and works through the circuit. You can quick check the starter by running 12 v directly to the terminal momentarily to see if it spins over ( assuming you at least have power to the lights and indicators) Usual problems are bad grounds, broken wires and corroded terminals, or defective relays. Check in that order. Electrical problems can sometimes be a real PIA to trace out .
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    I searched on your carb and it appears it is a float bowl drain hose (if I got the right carb in my search) there should be a screw to close the drain. If it is right , close the screw. Looks like it is there to easily drain any water out of the carb if you get some contaminated gas. https://www.google.ca/search?q=bayou+300++carb+adjustment&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjskrywpNrUAhUH32MKHeiKARYQsAQIXQ&biw=1696&bih=1015#imgrc=UhZ7gJl4FLWlWM:
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    Did you also change the oil and filter?.. Water vapor could be coming from water in the oil boiling off and entering the intake through the breather tube for the crankcase. Try adjusting the idle air screw and or the needle valve settings. Bogging on acceleration sounds like it isn't getting enough fuel (running lean) when you open the throttle.
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    There is also the Northern Wayne Outdoor Recreation Club which has 12 miles of old railroad bed to ride. http://www.nworc.org There are places to stop and eat along the trail
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    Welcome to QUADCRAZY! I was going to say lost trails in dunmore, pa because i was looking at that myself to go one day http://www.ridelosttrails.com/guided-tours.php rent or bring your own machine. Take a look at the regional sections https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/77-northeast-atv-off-road-forum/
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    I actually came across that thread before I posted here. None of his solutions made any difference on mine. I found the problem this mornin, apparently the BRAND NEW (like installed less than 24hrs ago) intake manifold had a gash on the bottom end of it on the rubber. Never thought to look at it since it was literally brand new. Just got off the phone with the parts company and have a replacement on the way. Goobered it up with JB weld for now so my boy can at least ride it for a bit. Just waiting for it to cure and hopefully she'll ride like new. Thanks though
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    heres a little trick I figured out for hard starting atvs that seem to run but shut down and sputter out. If your having Backfiring through the carb, spitting gas out through the carb it maybe a bad intake valve not seating properly. To test this Pull spark plug out, move piston to TDC on compression stroke, Take some compressed air with a air nozzle in spark plug hole, make sure you can seal it to the hole so no air can escape. apply the air and listen for air escaping through the carb or the exhaust valves. that will determine if you have a bad valve. Best way to check for bad valves.
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    '86 300 bayou https://www.yousendit.com/download/WUJiS3hUb0JiV3lVbDhUQw
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