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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Check the charging system. Sounds crazy I know but every now and then I get a machine that nobody can seem to fix. An over charge condition from the charging system will cause the CDI to shut down. At idle the machine may be showing 14-15 volts at the battery. As soon as you touch the gas the voltage shoots up (due to higher alternator rpm) and the Ignition system quits. The charging system should charge no more than 14.5v at 2500rpm or so. I usually do this as pre check before I actually start working on a machine. Sounds like you did everything else.
  2. 3 points
    What Ajmboy was referring to was the post. This website has a lot of technical resources available for the users of the site. Its a website and unlike social media, you don't get an instant response. Those who have the resources to share are only here on their spare time so a reply may be a day or two. Plus the way it was posted "I am just here to get a manual" is outright saying "once I get this manual, im gone" I wouldn't be too inclined to help that person either. Then on top of that to post 10 replies with only a number is childish, another reason to not help them either. A forum board is a community. There is already a lot of people who do come here to ask a question about a problem, then someone provides some suggestions to help solve it, and they never post back that it fixed the problem, so we never know if our suggestions worked. We assume it did, because otherwise they would post back that it didn't work. Mike
  3. 3 points
    That’s because people like you come to get something free and offer nothing in return to the community that gave them something. Next time pay for a manual.
  4. 2 points
    Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
  5. 2 points
    I think only you can decide if it is worth it or not .. Can you do the repairs yourself? What will the parts cost? how does the quad run? Motor ,transmission and tires good? Other quads around for comparable price that may be in better condition/ need less work on them? I never let the year bother in my decisions if the motor and transmission are fine . My own Quad is a 1991.
  6. 2 points
    Heres what I did- Don’t forget to hone the cylinder. Use lots of assembly lube. Before first start take out spark plug and turn engine over a few seconds to get oil flowing around a bit. Start it and let it idle for 30ish seconds, then rev it keep the rmps varying but not too high. This is so that the rings seat properly. And you need the variations to mimic the kind of conditions it will be facing while you ride- constantly changing rpms. Once it seems to be pretty well warmed up to regular operating temperature or you feel it has run long enough, let it cool down completely. Repeat the rev/cooling process 2 more times. Once you are ready to ride take it easy for the first 10 miles or so. Check all nuts/bolts periodically through this process. Hope this helps. The kit may come with recommended instructions also.
  7. 2 points
    Only the best here at QC brother! Then you add the knowledge of the members, I honestly do not think for one minute that there is one problem on an atv we can’t collectively get solved.
  8. 2 points
    I too joined this forum looking for a manual. I joined to be a contributing member and not just "pad" my posting numbers to get a manual. I poked around & found I like it here. I made some posts and even started a club (Ride Red). I also contributed photos & a service manual. I am not here to be a lazy sponge. Some people just don't get it!
  9. 1 point
    Hello all, i am new to the forum and will likely be back several times. I have ridden quads before but never owned one... till now. I just bought a 1996 Polaris Magnum 425 4x4. The output shaft that drives the front chain sheared off and needs replacement. It needs a few maintenance things but I have bought most everything I need. Runs good and will be fun to fix it up.
  10. 1 point
    Can't wait Frank. I have a few parts from a Mojave if you need them. I have the service manual for that quad too. Let me know if you need something. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    Alright Shane and Kent! Great job everyone . This is the reason for sites like these . Bunch of helpful, like minded individuals all pitching in to get a bike running. Joseph, you are more than welcome buddy. I can't count how many bikes, trikes , quads , or scooters other gentlemen like Shane or Kent have brought back to life for me . Cheers to my fellow members! I LuV iT!
  12. 1 point
    At the bottom of the engine in the rear where the Reverse cable goes down to there is a lever attached to that cable. Put it reverse and see if that cable is moving the lever far enough. If not you can adjust it from the top left section of the cable with the threaded part of the cable.
  13. 1 point
    I have owned Arctic Cats, I did have a Kymco Mongoose for a few years for the girl to ride, we sold it to a friend and it is still in use today. The smaller Arctic Cats of the time were Kymco based, Her first utility machine was basically a Kymco MXU, its 8 years old now, almost 10,000 miles on it and still runs well. I upgraded her to an Alterra so we kept the other machine as a backup and I use it for plowing. Mike
  14. 1 point
    The smaller Arctic Cats have clutch spacers that can be removed if you want more speed. Mike
  15. 1 point
    My own quad is a 1991 Honda Fourtrax 300FW, bought used 6 years ago. Only major repair I've done on it is replaced the rear axle and wheel hubs 2 years ago due to the splines on the axle ends and the wheel hubs wearing out ( a common problem on many of the older solid rear axle machines). I replaced the battery a couple of years ago and replaced the brushes in the starter this year. That's it for repairs. A friend bought a 1988 2 wheel drive Honda Fourtax 250 that had really been rode hard. The rear axle swing arm and torque tube was all cracked up.. Some welding and gusseting with my wirefeed and the machine has been good to go since. In my opinion, you can't beat a Honda for reliability and longevity.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks, that's a lot better price than the rebuild kit I looking at for $140. Thanks. So, I will check the compression, replace the sp, and get this kit for the valves. I will attach a picture of my carb- It doesn't look like the one the YouTube vid..maybe the former owner put in the wrong carb? I dunno..
  17. 1 point
    Athena (P400250600300) Top End Gasket Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PLS6ZXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_77R6BbVRTF3VG Carb cleaner is great but sometime you have to run a small wire through the jets to be sure they are clear. I also like to blow air through the jets to be sure they are clear. I like to use a piece of wire from a bicycle brake cable, one strand of that. There are also small brush kits for cleaning carburetors on amazon as well.
  18. 1 point
    I agree with @Frank Angerano ! It's all from members contributing their stuff. I edited your topic title since its not about a bayou, so renamed it
  19. 1 point
    It could also be a solenoid. All kinds of solenoids go bad all the time. I would be suspect of corrosion first if it goes anywhere near salt H2O that effects a lot more that you think and it will dissolve connections faster than you can shake a stick at it!! Has it ever been wet w/ salt H2O? If it has did you wash it down ASAP? It that's not your issue, you can fix it relatively easy with a multimeter. Get a wiring diagram and then find the connector for your suspected switches, hook up the meter between the 2 pins for the switch you want to check, press the button. If your meter reads 0hms when you press the button its good, anything else and 'd start with that. Start the bike and leave it running (you can only shift into reverse if its running) if you can access the reverse solenoid connector disconnect it and connect your multimeter to the leads(have the meter in 0-24vdc mode) activate reverse, you should have 12-14vdc at the connector. If you do, your solenoid is bad. If not work your way backwards through the wiring diagram till you find the problem.
  20. 1 point
    Check out the top link, Peoria AZ, bottom link for state - it gives some great locations for rides and should hopefully give you a start. https://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trails/info/arizona_06482/ride_9984.htm http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/
  21. 1 point
    Hell the Wish app has the most atv stuff... CHEAP TOO!
  22. 1 point
    Just contact your local dealer they will be able to get parts for it, and troubleshoot the problems.
  23. 1 point
    When hunting I carry my rifle in a Kolpin or Flambeau case. My old Kolpin case won't fit any of the current mounts - so I made my own for it. The newer Kolpin case mount for the gun boot IV - the loop bracket, carries way to high to suit me. A simple mod fits my Recon TRX250T, and puts the case down along side the footrest. A piece of bedframe angle iron about a foot long, brings the loop way down
  24. 1 point
    I've been trying like hell to get a 1993 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Straightened out. I'm Very thankful that I was able to get a copy of the Service manual from this Forum. I'm Disabled and cannot fix the Bike myself. I need the bike desperately. The first two guys that worked on it just Screwed it up worse. I'm on a Fixed Income and couldn't afford a manual. The Third person specifically ask for the maual that I could only find on this Forum. And he fixes Bikes all the time. So Thank you Quad Crazy for the Extra Help. It is Appreciated more than you know.
  25. 1 point
    Is the site glass broken? Here is a thread on an older 300 bayou and the oil capacity: http://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/kawasaki-atv-forum/10766-1986-kawasaki-bayou-300-oil-capacity.html Did you change the plug? The vin should be on the crankcase or frame somewhere. * Edited title to Kawasaki Bayou 300 Need Help
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