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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    What Ajmboy was referring to was the post. This website has a lot of technical resources available for the users of the site. Its a website and unlike social media, you don't get an instant response. Those who have the resources to share are only here on their spare time so a reply may be a day or two. Plus the way it was posted "I am just here to get a manual" is outright saying "once I get this manual, im gone" I wouldn't be too inclined to help that person either. Then on top of that to post 10 replies with only a number is childish, another reason to not help them either. A forum board is a community. There is already a lot of people who do come here to ask a question about a problem, then someone provides some suggestions to help solve it, and they never post back that it fixed the problem, so we never know if our suggestions worked. We assume it did, because otherwise they would post back that it didn't work. Mike
  2. 5 points
    I saw this article on Motosport and thought it was pretty good. Anyone add anything? You might think hopping on-board an ATV and going for a spin is just as easy as taking your regular 4-wheel car for a ride around the block. After all, both have four wheels. How hard could it be? In many respects, you're right. Some adventure riders choose quads over their two-wheeled counterparts of the dirt because there's less chance of crashing and it's easier to learn. ATVs also offer more manageability for younger riders to get acquainted with outdoor riding than a dirt bike. However, beginner riders on ATVs tend to make the same mistakes that result in crashes, roll overs and injury that could be avoided with some instruction and know-how. If you're looking at a fun family outing by renting ATVs or want to get into the sport take advantage of the following points and avoid the same mistakes so many other first time ATV riders make that end their day early or before they barely get started. 1. Nerf Bars Get Nerf bars. These are not soft cushy add-ons that are cousins to the football you use during backyard football games. In many respects, Nerf bars are gigantic foot pegs. Don't bother with traditional foot pegs because you'll constantly slip off and because of the "I feel safe factor" that comes with riding a quad you'll also have a tendency to let your feet drag when riding. That's a recipe for getting one or both of your feet caught in the back tire resulting in serious injury. Nerf bars allow you to stabilize your feet and get maximum control over the ATV Rest your feet easy on Nerf bars 2. Rolling Over Believe it or not, it's fairly easy to roll an ATV over. And you don't want to be on the bottom of that sandwich. The most common way of ending underneath a quad is looping out. That's done by hitting the gas and having little to no experience with the power of an ATV. The front spikes up like an out of control stallion, throws you onto your back like a bucking bronco and then pins you like a UFC Champ. The second way is when you're having a bit too much fun sliding around in mud or other slick conditions, the tires finally do what they're designed to do and grip the ground but the rest of the bike, with you on it, keeps going. Finally, those who think they've found their bearings take aim for a steep slope and try to conquer it only to end up upside down or in their attempt to arch alongside said steep hill, tumble over the side. 3. False Sense of Security This goes somewhat hand-in-hand with the roll over capability that many riders fail to appreciate therefore they also neglect wearing proper protective equipment. Don't think wearing jeans, t-shirt and sneakers is adequate protection when riding a 4-wheeled machine powered by a gas engine that doesn't have seatbelts. You need a helmet, goggles, gloves and riding boots at a minimum. Once you start ripping it on the track or trails add a chest protector, neck brace, knee brace, etc. 4. Throttle Control Everybody wants to skip the kiddie stage and get right into hair-raising speed when it comes to riding ATVs. OK, most everybody. But for those who do so many put on the cloak of invincibility and think a quad is merely a mini car that finally enables them to release all sorts of pent up childhood inhibitions. So they jab their thumb into the throttle with the expectation of a controlled roller coaster ride. Instead, they loop out and end up underneath the quad or manage to stay seated only to careen off course and introduce their 4x4 to a large tree. ATVs normally have a thumb throttle and most have an automatic clutch so the clutch is one less thing to worry about. So go slow and figure out how much "thumb" is too much and get used to the speed and power an ATV delivers before really going for a ride. Oh, one more thing, learn to take your thumb off the throttle! It's not to hard to loop out on an ATV 5. Loading the ATV Never, ever ride an ATV up a ramp into the back of a pick-up. If you want to know why just go to YouTube. If you want to know how to load an ATV check out this fine piece of quality information on How to Load a Motorcycle, Dirt Bike or ATV into a Truck. The bottom line to riding an ATV the first time is treat it like you would anything that comes with a modicum of danger. Careless behavior endangers you and others but with common sense and a willingness to learn you'll enjoy of lifetime of riding quads. For additional information on riding and/or maintaining ATVs see: 10 Quick Safety Tips for ATV Trail Riding Tips for New ATV Owners Choosing the Best ATV for Beginners 10 Things That Alter Your ATV Performance Written By: AndrewT
  3. 5 points
    That’s because people like you come to get something free and offer nothing in return to the community that gave them something. Next time pay for a manual.
  4. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0


    This is the factory service manual for the 2017-2019 factory service manual for the sportsman 450/570 with electronic power steering
  5. 4 points
    I was able to get out for some tracking in-between storms ... we have lots of deep powder and on this ride, it was pretty windy ... of course, it usually is on these ridge tops. It was nice & cool too. The day started of at -7F (-21c) and stayed pretty nippy all day long. Hope you enjoy the video !!!
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    Can't thank you guys enough for making all this possible! Gave Quadcrazy a shoutout in the video!
  8. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0


    Service manual for King quads 250 and 300
  9. 4 points
    Agreed, sounds like your like me, old school. Been on fourm boards for years, but over the past few years social media has taken over and many have shut down for lack of use. I still prefer the fourm boards over social media because its organized better, with groups and topics. Social media tends to be like spaghetti of posts and nonsense. I have also seen how people have changed because of social media. They will post a question, then like 2 hours later, post a reply like "What? Nobody has an answer for me?" They don't get it how it works. They want the "instant gratification" of social media verses the fourm boards. Mike
  10. 3 points
    Ok, after a slight distraction I finally got back to working on the quad. I did as suggested and started testing the ohms on the stator and pick up coils. Everything was checking out good (within the expected reading from the manual). I did notice I had the ‘ol random wire (red wire) that didn’t seam to go anywhere. After a little digging I found that It was part of the wire grouping that went to the coil. After unwrapping an abundance of tape I found where the failed “repair” was made. I reconnected the wire and bam I have spark. After putting everything back together I dialed in the carb and this quad is back up and running! Big shout out to Frank for pointing me in the right direction. Huge help man, thank you!
  11. 3 points
    I've just recently switched to the Erikson ATV e-strap kit: http://www.ericksonmfg.com/product/atv-wheel-chock-and-tie-down-strap-kit/ I like it... no need to compress your suspension but holds the atv very securely and doesn't bounce slack into it.
  12. 3 points
    That's pieces of an ancient rubber glove..... don't know man. Just messing with Amjboy. We need those crusty guys around. We'd call them "Old Salts" in the service. Thanks.
  13. 3 points
    Wow great pics brother. Wtf is that tan shit ? Looks like a piece of fish... The tank looks nasty. Glad it runs great, very nice work. The only thing I’m going to say about @Ajmboy is the only thing he has crusted is his reputation in this forum. You can’t have pie without crust! And this forum is the pie and he is the crust! And @Admin I love you too! Ride safe.
  14. 3 points
    I would clean the carb first. Fairly easy to do and just because some pro did it doesnt mean he didnt screw it up
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    Sounds like a cheap and good project. Great advice from @Frank Angerano [email protected]! For $100 I would buy it just to mess with it.
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    I received this set this week and used them. Could not be happier. You strip the wires put them into the connector and hit them with some heat. The tube shrinks and has a gasket material that melts and surrounds the wires, then there is a strip of soft solder that melts as well connecting the wires. Very strong. 50 pcs Solder Seal Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Electrical Marine Automotive Waterproof Wire Splice Insulated Connector Kit 26 24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10 Gauge AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LK2YJQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RZ-GCb3N1M9Q1
  19. 3 points
    This is quad crazy not crown Victoria crazy! Lol just kidding. It could be two things. One the fogging could be due to a blown (heater core). It’s a small radiator type coil under dash board on the passenger side. A real bitch to get to. A tell tale sign is the fogging as well as a wet floor on the passenger side under or on the carpet and a bit of a sweet odor in the car. The second thing it could be (less expensive) is the change over valve. It’s a small valve or damper that’s controlled by the switch in the dash. The control switch you would use to change to defrost to dash vent. That switch usually activates a motor of a kind that moves the flaps inside the dashboard ductwork. That motor can be a pneumatic , electric or cable depending on the year. It’s usually located on the firewall under the hood. In that general area. I’m putting my bet on the heater core though based on the fogging. Hope this helps. Get an Atv. It’s a lot easier and more fun to work on! Sorry to my fellow members but I couldn’t help myself I love cars as well! Good luck!
  20. 3 points
    Here's a little update on the wife. She's home & the best part, she is in NO PAIN !!! The leg is getting stronger everyday. Looking forward to the day she can walk again without crutches. The scary part about her getting better is, she keeps saying she can't wait to be able to drive again & go shopping !!! .......... ... That is NOT a good sign ...... ...
  21. 3 points
    I am going to close this topic and leave the last post as such..... If you join our community for only a manual, that's ok. But, you'll have to participate a little to be granted access to downloads as a free member. If you don't want to participate and would like immediate access, you can subscribe to one of our annual subscriptions, which bypass the need to participate.
  22. 3 points
  23. 3 points
    You'd have to measure to be sure , but the hubs may very well be interchangeable. My guess is they most likely are if they are from similar quad series. Hubs from a 250cc to 350cc bike in either series are more likely to be a direct swap than from a 250 and one with a much larger displacement. More power would call for heavier axles and hubs in most cases.
  24. 3 points
    Alrighty ... so someone said I know Tracks ... Funny thou, they never said I know Jack before ... and I still don't know Jack .... But I think I know enough about tracks to answer your questions Gilroy Guy ... First ... if your friend was stuck out on the lake in snow & slush with his 500lb sled ... with a tracked ATV, which with the snow & ice on it, will weight about 1000 to 1400 lbs (And I SH*T you not about those numbers) ... I'm afraid you would be too. And Yes, they are a SOB to get unstuck. Sorta ... I've never been in snow & slush, but from what I've read & talked to some Canadian friends about it, it's NOT something I want to try. Getting stuck in just snow ... and you will ... isn't to bad, if you just take it as part of the adventure & take your time digging yourself out. See, usually when a tracked ATV gets stuck, like tires, it's because the belly of your ATV is resting on snow & the tracks don't have anything to grab a hold of ... Yeah, you're high centered. So, armed with a good snowmobile snow shovel, you have to dig down around the ATV so you can dig the snow out from underneath the ATV. And maybe dig a ramp affair in front of the ATV & usually, you can drive right out. That has worked for me for 10 yrs, so .... and a winch is worthless unless you have something to attached it to. And even then, you'll have to dig because the winch won't be able to get out out of the hole you're in & back on top of the snow. So, to answer your questions ........ 1) Buy whichever one you like best. I've had a Can-Am since 2011 & I've ridden with a friend with a Polaris with tracks. Personally, you couldn't give me a Polaris. But you asked. 2) All Season vs Winter Tracks. I've had both and after the first season of using my 4 season tracks, I ended up using them for snow only. Tracks ride real dang rough on dirt. They throw mud every where. But the 4 season tracks can ridden on asphalt for miles if a guy needed to without hurting the tracks. Snow only tracks are just that ... Snow only. Think "Snowmobile" ... Snow Only. It takes a bit of time to change out tires to tracks & back. But I use the time to do all my service work. Change oils, grease things up, inspect everything, check the belt, etc. They say you can do the change over in a couple hours. I'd say 4 hrs not killing yourself. What takes most the time is putting the mounting brackets for the tracks on. The tracks themselves mount up just like tires with 4 lug nuts.I usually take a couple days cause I also take the skid plates off & really clean the bike up. And with my back etc, I see no reason to hurry. Are snow only tracks worth it compared to 4 season tracks ?? ...... That's a tough one. For me personally, where we get between 4 to 8 ft of snow ... YES. HOWEVER, I used my 4 season tracks for 9 yrs in those same conditions & did just fine. (I did get stuck more often thou) But these new Can-Am Apache Backcountry Tracks are AMAZING !!! Pricey, but Amazing ... And I wouldn't go back to a 4 season track ... but that's me & where I ride. Your third bullet point asking about tracks and long trail rides in the summer .... You could I guess, but the tracks are going to beat the crap of you. Tracks have no give like a tire. They ride damn rough on dirt. AND, a tracked up ATV will NOT go as fast a one on tires. Track drive sprockets are between 14 & 16 inches in diameter. Your ATV tires are 24, 25, 26, or larger. So with tracks, you are geared down a lot. The fastest I've ever done on tracks (& that is my new ones with 16 inch drive sprockets) is 42 mph. But let me tell you, you will have your motor rpms maxed out. I usually run 18 to 25 mph on hard pack snow. Yes, I can go faster, but I don't. And speaking of being geared down, with tracks you will use lots more fuel. About twice as much. My Can-Am 1000 has a 5 gal fuel tank. On tires, I've ridden 82 miles on a tank before I refueled. On tracks, both on hard pack & powder snow, & remember, you'll be in 4WD the entire time, I've done 33 miles before I had to refuel. How long are tracks good for ?? I've got a set that are 9 yrs old & they look brand new. Remember thou, I've used them mostly for snow only. The hub bearings & bogie wheel bearings are where you have to pay attention. I used to change ALL my bearings out every 2 or 3 yrs. Something like, 56 bearings I think. Yes, I bought cheap Chinese bearings & greased then up good. My new tracks I'm hoping will be better. On the plus side, if I have to change the bearings out, there are only 22 not counting the 4 additional bogie wheels I added to the rear tracks, which would be 8 more bearings. Warranty issues with tracks ?? Depends on your dealer I guess. I do ALL my own work on my machines & have the dealer check & verify I did good. But I'm on REAL good terms with my dealer, so .... Issues with stock axles, clutches or other components ?? Not in my experience. But anyone can break anything given enough time, throttle or alcohol. I started with a 2003 660 Grizzly. I was told that was the worse year fo Grizzly there was for breaking axles. I ran tracks on that machine for 4 yrs & never broke an axle. Actually, the only issue I've had with tracks over 11 yrs is one CV boot. I tore a hole in one doing some spring track'in on my 4 season tracks. But, I've also put holes in CV boots while riding on tires, so ........... Stock clutches should work fine. And I've never had to change a wheel bearing or a tie rod. Some guys I guess have had issues with those components, but I haven't ... ever. Hope that info gives you the answers you're after ....... PRAY FOR SNOW !!!! ...
  25. 3 points
    I am on Facebook and also use Skype; although I don't use Skype nearly as much as I used to. When Microsoft bought Skype and started "improving" it the made a mess of it as far as I'm concerned . It went from an easy to use chat facility to one using too much of my screen while complicating some things that were easy to use. I am also in some other interest and community groups/ forums. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Skype all have their followers and users. I don't use Instagram and seldom check Twitter. My main connection to family and friends is Facebook and Skype now is mostly to chat with a friend in China since for some reason the PTB there block easy access to Facebook and Youtube. Security can be set as tight or loose on Facebook as you wish. Facebook has an added advantage in that you can have interest groups with in it to keep up with friends with shared interests without having everything open on your main page .. I am in a Ham Radio group, 4x4 and quad group, a gardening group, one on tropical fishkeeping as well as one on internet tv. I try to help out where I can , and otherwise toss in comments in the forums . It doesn't matter the activity or hobby, we all started as complete newbies, and asked our share of "stupid and easy" questions and others took the time to answer them . Yes , there were the know it all asses, but if you ignore them they soon get tired and go away or an admin makes them go away. There are no stupid questions. If youdon't ask , you won't find the answer. Sometimes the answer to your "stupid question" also helps others too shy or afraid to ask for fear of ridicule by the wise ass old timer who really isn't as wise and all knowing he thinks he is . The really smart ones know you can never know all there is on any subject and constantly learn new tricks. Sometimes those new tricks come from an answer to "stupid questions" . Those that "just come for the manuals" and leave don't know just how valuable a resource they are overlooking by doing so.
  26. 3 points
    I think you pulled the wrong black wire. Find the reverse limiter and follow that black wire and disconnect. Here's what you're looking for.
  27. 3 points
    The simple fact that this thread has not spun out of control speaks volumes to the conduct on the forum......I realize this is my first post. I have spent some time on another forum, this thread would have played out differently. I opened this one out of morbid curiosity. Kudos to you guys.
  28. 3 points
  29. 3 points
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  30. 3 points
    Welcome to quadcrazy. There are plenty of member that know alot of useful information. If it once ran. One of us can fix it. So don't be shy to ask questions. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  31. 3 points
    I uploaded the Yamaha service manual for your Big Bear. Covers 2000 & 2001. First time I've done this so I hope it downloads correctly.
  32. 3 points
    One thing that got left off that most people overlook. I'm a professional mechanic and I overlooked it. THE DIFFERENTIALS, check them for leaks, proper oil level, and condition (i.e. if its brown its got rust in it and the bearings are shot, or if its got metal in it). also play in the bearings. I just had to fix my 07 420 Rancher rear diff because I didn't check it when I bought it. If I had it woulda been cheaper. Even with this list of things to check for you can still get a bike with problems. Most of the time 4wheelers get beat to Hell. I know every one I've ever ridden has. Never rolled one fortunately, been close. They go air-born and get over-reved, buried in mud and spashing through the creek. I won't own any ATV other than a Honda. They take the abuse the best I've found. Cheap and easy to fix too, except for the tools of course. Those are stupid expensive. I may be offering a cheaper tool to pull Honda diffs apart here pretty soon. Gonna see what my machinist buddy says on the cost of making them.
  33. 3 points
    Exactly what @Frank Angerano said, and should be what we used to call semi-automatic. You have to shift but with no clutch. Bayou 220 is a great atv, it was my first utility quad after I moved away from an older sport 87 yamaha warrior. Here's a much older picture of me and my bayou back in 2002 or 2003.. Good luck with it, make sure you download the manual here: * Topic moved to Kawasaki ATV forum and re titled post to include ATV info.
  34. 3 points
    Welcome aboard @Squirrel @Bud394 @RAYAR @Jonathan Newnham @Steve1981 @KGB @KGB @grizzlysixsixty @AC1 @Brer Wilson @Pzzaman0 @Alexandre Leblanc @patrick st-james @Ty Warner !
  35. 3 points
    Hope everyone has a great holiday, be safe, eat a lot drink plenty and enjoy , i dont know many here still , im new but hopefully this upcoming. Year i will get to know more. Enjoy. Airborne
  36. 3 points
    I think everyone has their own valid opinion of which is the best brand. I like my Honda , and friends who have them also swear by them . Yamaha , Kawasaki and Suzuki also have their fans. Kymco, although much less well known also has a very good reputation among those that can get over their prejudices against "Chinese junk" . Kymco is Taiwanese, makes parts for a few high end car makers and as well as for some of the more name brand Japanese ATV builders. I can't speak for the reliability of some of the newer models of US/ Canadian ATV builders, but some of the older ones did not have a great reputation here . For example , among the riders I know the old Polarises were better known by the name " Pullhairis" for the troubles they had . I think the best ATV is the one that does the job for you, is liked by your riding circle of friends and is the one you can afford. Keep the maintenance up and any of todays machines will serve you well, although I too am wary of unknown brands that sell cheaply. None of the name brand , domestic or foreign should let you down whether the machine is 40 years old or new .. Maintenance means much ore than age .
  37. 3 points
    Some people ....
  38. 3 points
    Well Michael, thats not going to do anything but piss people off. lol, Just browse the forum and make a few comments, maybe start a post and introduce yourself, let us know what youre working on and how its going.
  39. 3 points
    Good point, and funny you just posted this ... honestly lol , i just came in from garage , parked quad after going for a blast through the woods , opened a beer and walked into house .. its cold out here in upstate new york , wife is making a nice meal for us because we dont go out on “ Amature night “ , fireplace going , a nice old movie on and i looked over at wife and said “ lets go out for a blast tonight , , mind you we live in the woods , unpaved roads , 4 wheel drive in winter , she looks at me and said i dont think so. We have already started drinking , youve had a few jamisons , / w a few beers already , its 4:00 , and we will not be safe ripping through the woods at night , ...mind you a took a damn branch on face. This afternoon caught in helmit lol. Have a cute little “ red mark. Lol ........ i wear my helmit , but should of had my goggles ...... anyway long story short. You are no doubt correct buddy , my ass is home in front of fireplace on this cold night , quads are staying parked ...Happy new year guys Airborne
  40. 3 points

    Version 1.0.0


    5851c4c6b5ba7_1988-2002KawasakiBayou220ServiceManual.pdf 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
  41. 3 points
    Ah so the end is near! I am not really sure where to put this topic, hopefully this is the correct spot. As 2018 is coming to a end I can't thank everyone on this forum enough on the support you guys have gave me on my YouTube channel. As I am still a small creator I still love pumping out some quadding videos for everyone to enjoy. I don't ask you guys much at all so I hope it would be ok for me to ask you guys to hlep me achieve my final goal for my YouTube channel in 2018. My goal is to reach 400 Subscribers. I currently sit at 378, If you could find the time to make a few clicks and give me a subscription I would really appreciate it! (you only need a Gmail account) Channel: https://bit.ly/2Ae78Su Happy Holidays and safe riding!
  42. 3 points
    For anyone interested, QUADCRAZY goes back to 2003 so I decided to look us up on https://web.archive.org/ 2003 (images no longer exist on the server) 2007 2008 2012 2016 2018
  43. 3 points
    Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
  44. 3 points
    Heres what I did- Don’t forget to hone the cylinder. Use lots of assembly lube. Before first start take out spark plug and turn engine over a few seconds to get oil flowing around a bit. Start it and let it idle for 30ish seconds, then rev it keep the rmps varying but not too high. This is so that the rings seat properly. And you need the variations to mimic the kind of conditions it will be facing while you ride- constantly changing rpms. Once it seems to be pretty well warmed up to regular operating temperature or you feel it has run long enough, let it cool down completely. Repeat the rev/cooling process 2 more times. Once you are ready to ride take it easy for the first 10 miles or so. Check all nuts/bolts periodically through this process. Hope this helps. The kit may come with recommended instructions also.
  45. 3 points
    Your spark may be breaking down as the RPM’S come up. This happened with my Polaris which had a rev limiter on it also. So @06kfx440 may have a point. I was pointed in the direction of a faulty rev limiter on one of my bikes through the forum here. I purchased this spark tester and put it in line with the spark plug. Started and watched the spark break down/fail as I reved the bike. I removed the rev limiter and my problem was solved. Worth a shot and cheap enough to try. It’s also a good tool to have. Having ruled out the fuel system it may be time to start looking in the ignition system. Rev limiter bad pick up coil stator coil problem regulator cdi box 4 of the 5 above listed parts can be tested and the repair manual will explain as far as how and what numbers should be shown on the tester during this process. I attached a pic of the spark tester.
  46. 3 points
    I too joined this forum looking for a manual. I joined to be a contributing member and not just "pad" my posting numbers to get a manual. I poked around & found I like it here. I made some posts and even started a club (Ride Red). I also contributed photos & a service manual. I am not here to be a lazy sponge. Some people just don't get it!
  47. 3 points
    Not too hard to find 10 interesting things to comment on if you look around the site a little.
  48. 2 points
    ARCTIC CAT BRANDED SIDE-BY-SIDES AND ATVS ARE COMING BACK Passion can change people. Change minds. And in the end, it can take us back to where our family has been all along. Because Arctic Cat fans and powersports enthusiasts demanded it, the Arctic Cat® name will be returning to ATVs and Side-by-Sides in 2019. With a legacy of innovation, performance and fun, our legendary lineup of ATVs, side-by-sides and snowmobiles are built to take you anywhere you want to go — from carving up mountain snow on a Mountain Cat Alpha One in British Columbia, to flying over the dunes in Glamis in a Wildcat™ XX. And these high-performance vehicles are still made proudly in Thief River Falls, Minnesota. https://www.arcticcat.com/the-cat-is-back/
  49. 2 points
    Thanks for all of the helpful tips and ideas! I wish i could work on it right now but the weather isn't agreeing with me (Wish i had a nice garage lol). I'll definitely go at it once this rain lets up. I've messed with the carb so much but from what I've read off this forum i'll tear it down again and correct the air/fuel screw and also run seafoam afterwards. If it still runs the way it does right now ill correct the timing and checks the cams! I'll also check the belts while i'm at it.
  50. 2 points
    I would leave the plug out and move the spark plug wire off to the side in a safe spot and crank the engine a few times. Everything that’s in the head should blow out of the plug hole or onto the exhaust which will eventually come out of the exhaust or burn off after start up. Cranking the engine will also allow the oil to pump through the engine and lube everything up as well. Was the carburetor ran dry before you sat the bike ? If not then the carburetor will need to be cleaned. And I would put a new spark plug in as well. After you get it running and a warmed up then you can change the oil once safely cooled off enough to touch.
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