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  1. 3 points
    You'd have to measure to be sure , but the hubs may very well be interchangeable. My guess is they most likely are if they are from similar quad series. Hubs from a 250cc to 350cc bike in either series are more likely to be a direct swap than from a 250 and one with a much larger displacement. More power would call for heavier axles and hubs in most cases.
  2. 3 points
    The simple fact that this thread has not spun out of control speaks volumes to the conduct on the forum......I realize this is my first post. I have spent some time on another forum, this thread would have played out differently. I opened this one out of morbid curiosity. Kudos to you guys.
  3. 3 points
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  4. 3 points
    Welcome aboard @Squirrel @Bud394 @RAYAR @Jonathan Newnham @Steve1981 @KGB @KGB @grizzlysixsixty @AC1 @Brer Wilson @Pzzaman0 @Alexandre Leblanc @patrick st-james @Ty Warner !
  5. 3 points
    For anyone interested, QUADCRAZY goes back to 2003 so I decided to look us up on https://web.archive.org/ 2003 (images no longer exist on the server) 2007 2008 2012 2016 2018
  6. 2 points
    I doubt the lack of coolant affected the transmission.. Most transmissions can be run a long time with the coolant lines blocked off unless they're being run under very heavy load. The lack of coolant would have seized the motor long before it hurt the tranny.
  7. 2 points
    an't fight you on that .. My own quad is a 1991 Fourtrax 300FW. Does everything I want . Bought used 6 years ago.. Only repair I've needed to do on it is replace the rear axle due to worn out splines at the hubs. and replace front brake shoes. Still runs strong and not burning oil. Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki are also all good machines ; as well as the Kymco machines.. I know some swear by Polaris but around here most swear at the older ones ..They're nicknamed "Pullhairis" by the ones I know that have had one in the past . I don't know how the newer ones are because nobody I know has one ..
  8. 2 points
    I saw this article on Motosport and thought it was pretty good. Anyone add anything? You might think hopping on-board an ATV and going for a spin is just as easy as taking your regular 4-wheel car for a ride around the block. After all, both have four wheels. How hard could it be? In many respects, you're right. Some adventure riders choose quads over their two-wheeled counterparts of the dirt because there's less chance of crashing and it's easier to learn. ATVs also offer more manageability for younger riders to get acquainted with outdoor riding than a dirt bike. However, beginner riders on ATVs tend to make the same mistakes that result in crashes, roll overs and injury that could be avoided with some instruction and know-how. If you're looking at a fun family outing by renting ATVs or want to get into the sport take advantage of the following points and avoid the same mistakes so many other first time ATV riders make that end their day early or before they barely get started. 1. Nerf Bars Get Nerf bars. These are not soft cushy add-ons that are cousins to the football you use during backyard football games. In many respects, Nerf bars are gigantic foot pegs. Don't bother with traditional foot pegs because you'll constantly slip off and because of the "I feel safe factor" that comes with riding a quad you'll also have a tendency to let your feet drag when riding. That's a recipe for getting one or both of your feet caught in the back tire resulting in serious injury. Nerf bars allow you to stabilize your feet and get maximum control over the ATV Rest your feet easy on Nerf bars 2. Rolling Over Believe it or not, it's fairly easy to roll an ATV over. And you don't want to be on the bottom of that sandwich. The most common way of ending underneath a quad is looping out. That's done by hitting the gas and having little to no experience with the power of an ATV. The front spikes up like an out of control stallion, throws you onto your back like a bucking bronco and then pins you like a UFC Champ. The second way is when you're having a bit too much fun sliding around in mud or other slick conditions, the tires finally do what they're designed to do and grip the ground but the rest of the bike, with you on it, keeps going. Finally, those who think they've found their bearings take aim for a steep slope and try to conquer it only to end up upside down or in their attempt to arch alongside said steep hill, tumble over the side. 3. False Sense of Security This goes somewhat hand-in-hand with the roll over capability that many riders fail to appreciate therefore they also neglect wearing proper protective equipment. Don't think wearing jeans, t-shirt and sneakers is adequate protection when riding a 4-wheeled machine powered by a gas engine that doesn't have seatbelts. You need a helmet, goggles, gloves and riding boots at a minimum. Once you start ripping it on the track or trails add a chest protector, neck brace, knee brace, etc. 4. Throttle Control Everybody wants to skip the kiddie stage and get right into hair-raising speed when it comes to riding ATVs. OK, most everybody. But for those who do so many put on the cloak of invincibility and think a quad is merely a mini car that finally enables them to release all sorts of pent up childhood inhibitions. So they jab their thumb into the throttle with the expectation of a controlled roller coaster ride. Instead, they loop out and end up underneath the quad or manage to stay seated only to careen off course and introduce their 4x4 to a large tree. ATVs normally have a thumb throttle and most have an automatic clutch so the clutch is one less thing to worry about. So go slow and figure out how much "thumb" is too much and get used to the speed and power an ATV delivers before really going for a ride. Oh, one more thing, learn to take your thumb off the throttle! It's not to hard to loop out on an ATV 5. Loading the ATV Never, ever ride an ATV up a ramp into the back of a pick-up. If you want to know why just go to YouTube. If you want to know how to load an ATV check out this fine piece of quality information on How to Load a Motorcycle, Dirt Bike or ATV into a Truck. The bottom line to riding an ATV the first time is treat it like you would anything that comes with a modicum of danger. Careless behavior endangers you and others but with common sense and a willingness to learn you'll enjoy of lifetime of riding quads. For additional information on riding and/or maintaining ATVs see: 10 Quick Safety Tips for ATV Trail Riding Tips for New ATV Owners Choosing the Best ATV for Beginners 10 Things That Alter Your ATV Performance Written By: AndrewT
  9. 2 points
    So, what did you do on tax day ?? Me, I went for a track ride even thou it was foggy and snowy ... Hope you enjoy the winter time video ... ...
  10. 2 points
    Waiting for day off to continue. Yea is a pain to fix others rig. Looking at the harness and other wiring I really don't see any other areas where they messed with it. Looks pretty stock and no burns or messed up wiring. Ill check the regulator on Friday and also see which one had power at ign. I did check starter switch and is open so figure its bad. Now I tried to jump wires on opposite end of connector and still no crank with key on and off. LOL at least im not posting trash just to get a download
  11. 2 points
    So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike/ATV. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”. Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for. 1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color. 2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you. 3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running) 4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks. 5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck. 5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath. 7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart. 8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart. 9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material. 10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up. 11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it 12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike . All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems. I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence! I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
  12. 2 points
    To start it off, I'd like to share the bakery display cases I made for my wife. I'm sure ya'll have some impressive stories behind those HF tools, let's see 'em! I built these bakery display cases for wife on almost 100% HF tools a couple years ago. Only thing I bought from Home Depot was the wood/plywood/stains and 3 sawhorses for my workbench. Router, circsaw, blades for both, sander, sandpaper, gloves, the nails for the nailgun (gun borrowed from dad, have a 5# pancake for air) I had almost zero tools to start. Some of their cheap "speed" clamps failed, but first time for me using those types of clamps, was expecting them to hold better: heh my youngest helping my dad glue: and for fun, here was the finished project (1 of 2, built 2 cases, this is the smaller .. the plastic was from Tap Plastics for the "sneeze guards" and the top case): back side showing both cases:
  13. 2 points
    Thanks for all of the helpful tips and ideas! I wish i could work on it right now but the weather isn't agreeing with me (Wish i had a nice garage lol). I'll definitely go at it once this rain lets up. I've messed with the carb so much but from what I've read off this forum i'll tear it down again and correct the air/fuel screw and also run seafoam afterwards. If it still runs the way it does right now ill correct the timing and checks the cams! I'll also check the belts while i'm at it.
  14. 2 points
    I bought a grinder from there this past summer and ran the crap out of it to restore this 5 by 8 trailer. Mike
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    hey you too man! And thanks to the forum and especially you for helping me through this rebuild!! It actually turned out better than I expected.
  17. 2 points
    I'd like to remind everyone that posting useless content to inflate your post count will just get you flagged for spamming and this site shares spammer info with thousands of other sites, so it's not good practice.
  18. 2 points
    Ill get some pics up , been busy , actually layed out all parts tonight , also took delivery this afternoon af wifes and my new machines, hold up for two weeks for plow parts , ill be busy next few days lol ....
  19. 2 points
    Vin# is located on the left side frame rail. Find the frame rail below the shift lever, follow that rail forward to where it goes up the wheel well. Get down low and look up behind the wheel well at the frame rail.
  20. 2 points
    I am a 63 year young "Nana" who rode when I was younger, then my kids rode. I still like the breeze in my hair now and then. Mostly I try to keep something around and running for my 5 grandboys.
  21. 1 point
    Didn't try shifting without coming off the throttle. Planing to download app and to detect time with it, but didn't find proper one before that runs. I will test more and will try next time with it
  22. 1 point
    Look at this Mojave, I wanted to buy it for parts for the one I just rebuilt. I needed the air off of it and some nonsense parts as well as maybe taking that cdi for stock. He was firm on $300. I told him $100 bucks to take it away. He told me I was crazy. I said nobody is going to take it for that price! It’s buried in weeds and missing a lot of stuff. So I said $150. He said nope so I walked away. He has messaged me 10 times now for $150 he said he has to get it out of his yard. The last message he sent was $100 will be fine. Unfortunately I made my own air filter set up and no longer need the parts. Some people think that they have gold!!! @Ajmboy did you check out that post on the Mojave?
  23. 1 point
    Very nice. I love that last pic of that wide trail or maybe a sand dune? but that’s great stuff. That fourtrax is in great condition, and looks like a good mix of bikes. Looks like you had a blast.
  24. 1 point
    Welcome to Quadcrazy @reddotshooter03 I had that same bike. Is it the Big Red? I would pull the spark plug and test for spark. If spark is good then spray a drop of starting fluid into the air cleaner as your cranking it. If it fires up then it’s a fuel problem. Maybe the carburetor is not cleaned right (it happens) or the fuel line or valve (petcock) to the carburetor is not clear. Start there.
  25. 1 point
    I don't know if this would be any help, but this is the stator of an Arctic Cat. There are two parts to it, the first is the three wires that generate AC voltage which then goes to the regulator to produce power for the quad and recharge the battery. As Frank mentioned you should check each wire to wire (three of them) and you should get the same ohm reading or very close. Any one of these wires testing to ground should be an open reading. Any reading to ground means a bad stator (ground faulted) The other two wires are the pickup coil for the CDI to tell it when to spark. On Arctic cats, this fires the plug twice each full cycle of the 4 stroke (the second spark is basically wasted as its the exhaust stroke) but its common practice, since the coil picks up each time the stator rotates. The service manual tells you what the ohm readings should be for both the stator and pickup coil, but any reading to ground is a clear indication of a bad part. Mike
  26. 1 point
    Good luck and I’m sure you will have it up and running in no time. Any questions you might have ask away. There are a bunch of members here to help you along with the engine, drivetrain as well as making it look good with paint, vinyl etc.
  27. 1 point
    We had a good time at the Chicken BBQ event, they sold out by 2:15pm. We were plenty cool inside at night.
  28. 1 point
    Some of the maintainers come with that connector so you have a quick way to attach the charger. No harm in attaching it. The only way it could have damaged the battery is if it overcharged it for a long time. (as in the charger is defective) you can check that by measuring the voltage on the battery with the charger attached. It should not exceed 14.5 volts. For a charger to "boil" out your battery, you would see over 17 volts. Mike
  29. 1 point
    That all depends on what brand atv it is, does it have a battery? Most bikes are set up to be able to power what there designed for. So if your bike has no design for power out put other then to keep a charge on the battery then anything you connect to the battery may drain the battery a lot more since the engines alternator will not be able to replenish the draw on the battery form the lights you’ve added.
  30. 1 point
    Your best bet would be to look up the parts and compare the part number on any of the parts web sites. Best bet. @Ajmboy knows some of the parts places that list the parts by numbers Maybe he can chime in and point you in the right direction. Also take a look (long shot) but look on eBay for that parts for both years and screen shot the patsy and compare or down load the manuals here and compare parts from the manual. It may take time but worth it. Lastly I would call a Yamaha dealer ask for the parts dept and ask them to run the part numbers for both years. I’m sure they would tell you
  31. 1 point
    Empty old gas if any. Fill gas and hope they run and seals are good. You could check oil level. Just have to see if they turn over and fix what's needed from sitting.
  32. 1 point
    great topic! Was about to ask this question for my warrior as the plastics are a little faded (they are white so its harder to tell, but they definitely aged...)
  33. 1 point
    Welcome to QUADCRAZY! Check out the member map https://www.quadcrazy.com/membermap/ zoom in to see what members are in the area:
  34. 1 point
    I run a half pound less of what the rating is just for comfort. Takes a little bit of the rough ride out. I also use nitrogen in instead of air. Nitrogen has no pressure change through the seasons cold or hot so my tire psi always stays the same.
  35. 1 point
    We had a lot of snow here too, especially in the higher elevations. I don't want it to melt too fast because that causes a lot of errosion, but, at the same time, I am eager to get trackin.
  36. 1 point
    I knew you would chime in on the Polaris @JacobSlabach . This boy loves the Polaris brand.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Yep that will work fine and yes the ground will be fine anywhere on the chassis. You won’t have to add a fuse on the wire since the lighting circuit is already protected at the fuse block but you can if you want it can’t hurt. Juts be sure your tapping the running light and not the brake light.
  39. 1 point
    It wasn't "life saving" the driver of the side by side was ready to bail if the machine let loose. (Passenger already got out of the machine and is sitting on my girls machine in picture) She had to sit on her machine to add weight because the quad was lighter then the side by side and was being pulled back towards the drop off. She winched to my machine, I was winched to a tree holding everyone in place. The side by side in trouble can be seen in the background. I was winching in and had Michelle run her machine to help pull the side by side out, her quad lost traction and bam, that blew out my winch's gears. (but the winch held, I just could no longer spool in) Her quad is also equipped with a WARN winch and was more powerful then my old one. (at the time my machine was a 2007 400, came with a WARN 2000 lb winch) Hers was 2500 lb winch, With the added weight on her machine and careful winching, we pulled the side by side out. The side by side had some kind of aftermarket winch and was not strong enough to pull the machine out, this is why we had to do it this way. In the end, nobody was hurt, and we all got out safe. This was a true test of winches. Mike
  40. 1 point
    I wouldn't completely trust the indicator because I've had an ATV that someone tinkled with and had the wiring wrong. The gears could be bad it it shifts into 3rd and reverse easily but not into 1st and 2nd. It should struggle at first in 3rd gear because its a higher gear but should run smoother at higher speeds. In my case, one of the shifting forks came loose inside and it couldn't engage in 1 or 2.
  41. 1 point
    Thank u frank. I did notice the fuel appeared 2 b compromised. I am aware of the main jet and the issues involved however I will appreciatively take ur suggestion and make certian it is free of all debri. I think my big hesitation and uncertainty with this particular machine is it is a water cooled engine for 1, which I have never had this displeasure of working on. And 2, the timing adjusters r on the outside of this engine which not only strikes me as odd but also I can't see how this is a good idea as it seems easily comprimisable.... If that's even a word, lol. I haven't touched the machine in a few weeks altho I need 2 get on the ball with it.
  42. 1 point
    I will be posting some updates on my head gasket repair on a Polaris 700 sportsman. Hopefully this will help some of you guys with you own repair.
  43. 1 point
    and I forgot to say that this is a Remington Special Edition, but its been wrecked or something cause it has green plastics on it now. heres a pic
  44. 1 point
    I picked up a 1990 Yamaha Moto 4 350 from a buddy in the past two weeks. Still runs very well and is the first ATV I’ve ever owned. It is a nice utility ATV that my kids can have fun on. Wondering if anyone has an owners and service manual for this ATV. I’m a DIY guy that wants to go through and maintain the ATV. I just gave it a updated paint job (photo attached). Thanks for the help.
  45. 1 point
    Here's a good article and video on the basics when it comes to ATV front end wheel alignments. Source: http://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/online/free/steering/atv-front-end-alignment/ When you hear the words front end alignment what comes to mind? Automobiles and potholes may be the first thought. There are other four wheeled vehicles out there running over a lot more than potholes. ATVs and side-by-sides live hard lives crawling over rocks, hauling loads, and crossing trails no other man-made vehicle would dare. One of the most basic services these vehicles call for is the adjustment of the toe-in of the front wheels. The Suzuki Eiger LT-F-400F calls for this to be checked initially after 100 mi. or 1 month of use, and every 600 mi. or 3 months for the rest of its operational life. Be it a Yamaha Banshee, 50cc mini-quad, or Kawasaki Mule this is a periodic maintenance item that is essentially the same no matter the scale of machine. Toe-in specifically refers to the amount the front wheels are pigeon toed. At axle level the center of the front tires are closer in the front than in the back. Most ATVs and side-by-sides call for the front wheels to be slightly pigeon toed to parallel. Keeping the toe-in aliment in specification and adjusted correctly is important for performance, safety, and tire wear. If the front end of the vehicle is in a toe-out position, duck footed, the tires will wear more rapidly and the vehicle will be inherently unstable. In addition, if the toe-in adjustment is in specification but it has been improperly adjusted it may put excess strain on the steering components. The first step in checking the toe-in is to check the tire pressure. Make sure the tire pressure set correctly in all four tires. The air pressure in the front tires should be as close to the same as possible. Place the vehicle on a level surface and position the steering straight ahead. Be sure to check with the appropriate service manual to see if there are any extra specifics for the vehicle. The Suzuki Eiger for example calls for the vehicle to be weighted as to simulate the rider. Make a chalk mark on the front, center of each front tire at the height of the front axle. If available set up a toe gauge so that the pointers line up with the chalk marks. Measure the distance between the front chalk marks. Record this measurement as A. Rotate the front wheels 180° so the marks remain at axle height, but are now facing to the rear. Record the distance between the marks on the backside of the tires as B. Subtract the front measurement A from the rear measurement B to calculate the toe-in. If the number is negative you have a toe-out condition. Compare your toe-in figure with the factory specification found in the vehicles service manual. To adjust the toe-in loosen the lock nuts on the tie-rods. The outer tie-rod lock nuts often have left hand threads. Turn the tie rods with a wrench at the flats to change the toe-in. Be sure to evenly adjust the left and right tie-rods for proper alignment. Check with the service manual to see if there are any specifications for the length of the tire rods or the amount of threads that should be showing. If the tie-rods are not adjusted according to the OEM specifications the proper toe-in may be achieved, but the vehicle will not steer correctly and it could be at risk of breaking a tie-rod. When the adjustment is correct hold the tie-rod flats and tighten the lock nuts to specification against each side of the tie-rod. Take a slow test ride to make sure the steering functions correctly. Check out this additional video on ATV wheel alignments:
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    When hunting I carry my rifle in a Kolpin or Flambeau case. My old Kolpin case won't fit any of the current mounts - so I made my own for it. The newer Kolpin case mount for the gun boot IV - the loop bracket, carries way to high to suit me. A simple mod fits my Recon TRX250T, and puts the case down along side the footrest. A piece of bedframe angle iron about a foot long, brings the loop way down
  48. 1 point
    New atv/utv also cost insane amount of $$$. Have a 20 year old polaris diesel ATV, still runs great.
  49. 1 point
    [ATTACH]213[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]214[/ATTACH] This hauler was custom my made by my wife uncle for his truck, when I bought the atv's he gave me the hauler. If you look in the project room, you will find my new project sitting on it. It also make a great work platform for the atv's and lawn mower. [ATTACH]215[/ATTACH]
  50. 1 point
    2008 KAWASAKI TERYX™ 750 4x4 Features and Benefits At a glance… - First in class with a V-twin - Sport performance with gas-charged rear shocks with reservoirs - 26-inch Maxxis tires - Sealed rear wet brake - Ample 500-pound capacity cargo bed Engine - The 90-degree 749cc V-twin engine is the largest, most powerful engine in its class - Positioned mid-ship for optimum front/rear balance – good for power slides and cornering control - Straight intake tracts and 34mm downdraft carburetors enhance power delivery throughout the rpm range - Radiator is compact and placed high in the chassis for better protection against mud and debris - Ducts located by the cargo bed direct cooling air to the engine - Aluminum cylinders are Electrofusion-plated for light weight, long wear and excellent heat dispersion - Engine can be started in any gear when the rear brake is applied - Electronically controlled Kawasaki Engine Brake Control helps to slow the RSV when traversing steep down hills Transmission/Selectable Four-wheel-drive - CVT features high and low ranges, plus reverse - Combined with the engine power characteristics, provides instantaneous acceleration - Rider can select two- or four-wheel-drive operation by pressing a button located on the dash - Limited-slip front differential reduces steering effort under normal four-wheel drive operation, while Variable Front Differential Control permits rider to distribute torque equally to left and right front wheels for maximum traction via a hand lever - Rear wheels are locked and always turning together for cornering control Chassis - Large-diameter thin-walled tubular steel frame - Only RSV with integrated occupant protection - First with sport performance-focused suspension – low-speed comfort not a main design priority - Wide track provides excellent stability and chassis has 11.2 inches of ground clearance - Long dual front A-arm suspension and narrow frame concept provides 7.5 inches of travel and features adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks - Independent rear suspension provides the best balance of rider comfort and handling at high speeds, and adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks with reservoirs provides 7.25 inches of travel - Chassis offers the right balance of bump absorption while limiting understeer - Able to tackle corners in either a drift or grip style and operate beyond the limits of its rivals Brakes - Dual front 200mm disc brakes with two-piston 27mm calipers and Kawasaki’s sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc rear brake system provide maximum stopping power in all conditions - Front discs are recessed in wheels for protection from debris Tires/Wheels - Good rough terrain performance and obstacle clearance with 26-inch Maxxis tires specially built for the Teryx 750 4x4 - Tread design enables both controlled sliding and forward traction Bodywork/Ergonomics - Bucket seats with retractable three-point seat belts - Foot guards designed into the floor and body - Padded steering wheel positioned low for better control - Body work is made of high-gloss scratch resistant Thermo-Plastic Olefin - Steel floor boards and engine guards for maximum protection - Dual 40W headlights and dual taillights - Cargo bed has 500 lb capacity, tie down hooks in all four corners and cargo net standard TERYX 750 4x4 LE additional features - Digital Meter - Dual retractable cup holders - Hard top - Half-Windshield - Tilting cargo bed with gas assist ------------------------------- SPECIFICATIONS Engine: Liquid-cooled, 90-degree, four-stroke V-twin Valve system: SOHC, four valves per cylinder Displacement: 749cc Starting system: Electric Bore x stroke: 85 x 66mm Compression ratio: 8.8:1 Carburetion: (2) Keihin CVKR-34 Ignition: Digital DC-CDI Transmission: Continuously variable belt-drive transmission with high and low range, plus reverse, and Kawasaki Engine Brake Control Final drive: Selectable four-wheel drive with Variable Front Differential Control, shaft Frame: Large diameter, thin-walled, high-tensile tubular steel Front suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable dual A-arm with gas charged shocks / 7.5 in. Rear suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) with gas charged, reservoir shocks / 7.3 in. Front tires: Maxxis 26x8-12 Rear tires: Maxxis 26x10-12 Front brakes: Dual hydraulic discs with 2-piston calipers Rear brake: Sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc Overall length: 115.7 in. Overall width: 58.3 in. Overall height: 75.4 in. Wheelbase: 75.8 in. Ground clearance: 11.2 in. Lighting: (2) 40W headlights, (2) TK W taillight, TKW stoplight Cargo bed capacity: 500 lbs, 44.1 W x 32.7 L x 12 in. H Towing capacity: 1300 lbs Dry weight: TBD Fuel capacity: 8.0 gal. Instruments: R/N/P/4WD indicators, water temp and oil pressure lamps, digital meter (LE only) Standard Colors: Sunbeam Red, Woodsman Green, REALTREE™ Hardwoods Green® HD
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