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davefrombc

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davefrombc last won the day on June 4

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About davefrombc

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  1. My guess is a wonky temperature sensor. Like all electronics / electric relays and switches , they can go intermittent---- work one time and not the next, then work and fail again at random times. I'd replace it and see. I'm not a Honda dealer or service mechanic but I can't see their thinking in replacing the fuel pump and filter when the bike runs fine until warmed up to the point the fan should come on. That's not a fuel starvation issue that should show up well before the motor reaches operating temperature. That points far more to a sensor/ fan circuit problem to me
  2. Rather than suction , pushing fluid back from the wheel cylinder bleeds to the master cylinder can clear an air lock if that happens to be the problem. Used that a few times on old auto systems that didn't want to clear trapped air through normal bleeding.
  3. I read through the problem posts and try to offer help when I can. Not a lot of help to offer on any particular machine since I'm only familiar with my own , but I can try searching for free manuals and answer some or make suggestions when searching out carburetion or electrical problems. I have no experience with the new electronic systems . I'm from the carbs,, points and coil days of old.
  4. I searched and like you didn't find a great video or instructions for adjusting your carb , but this exploded view parts list will help you identifying the parts. The idle adjustment looks to be the screw by the fuel inlet. The coughing , backfiring and uneven running is most likely caused by running lean. It is either a setting out of adjustment or there is still a partial plug somewhere.. I hope this helps. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/1989/moto-4-yfm250w/carburetor
  5. LOL Trust the ERW to find one scientist that disagrees with the rest of the Science and Medical community and believe her over them . Yup the 2% is soooo much smarter than the 98%. I'm sure if you look long enough you'll find another of the 2% to agree with her. I'll follow the sheep that can think for themselves. I'll leave it for you to follow the Judas goats.
  6. https://factcheck.afp.com/scientist-makes-inaccurate-claims-covid-19-vaccine-safety
  7. Yes definitely clean the tank too. Get all the old gas and any sludge that settled out of it out .. I have an ol tiller that gas was never drained out of and it sat for years . There was still liquid in the carb but a sticky goo had settled out of it .. The seat for the float pin was plastic and swollen up as well as jets and passages were plugged .. I ended up replacing the carb. I had to completely fluch the fuel tank because it also had that sludge in it .
  8. That's a strange one indeed. Does the battery read the full 12v + with the motor off and just that lower reading when it is running? Turning lights or other accessories on with that low a voltage should kill it rather than make it run better .. I'm wondering if maybe there is a bad diode allowing AC to cause false readings on your voltmeter. What are the readings with everything turned off , when ignition on but nothing running and is it always that low a reading with the motor running? Can't help more than to just suggest those checks to help you diagnose or someone
  9. THe small jets being plugged are most likely the reason it's not running at all. The big jet is the main one for large throttle openings . The smaller jets and holes are for idling and part throttle.. You can use welders torch tip cleaners to poke out the clogged jets. Blow the passages out with "canned air" like they use for dusting out computers .
  10. Twist and spin the facts all you want . I just hope nobody in your circles of contacts suffers from the reality and consequences of denying the seriousness of the COVID pandemic and the steps to reduce its spread until vaccines can at least reduce it to a very low level. It may have already had enough mutations to make it endemic like the flu virus is so far .. Have fun, I'm done with this thread . There's no vaccine for stupid and no sense trying to point to fact with you lot .
  11. The point is masks don't stop all of them , but most, and if worn by the one infectious and the one possible victim. It REDUCES the spread , doesn't stop it just as masks reduce the chance of spreading infection in operating rooms. Flu cases have not gone "extinct" . They have been greatly reduced in the last year simply because the majority of the population has been smart enough to obey the recommendations to reduce the spread of COVID which at the same time reduces the spread of flu among the unvaccinated. I feel sorry for you if you can't understand a fact as simple a
  12. Read and understand the WHO article you quote.. Use of masks alone will not reduce the incidence significantly .. They are only one part of the measures needed. Vaccines aren't the reason flu was down considerably .. It was use of masks and the other measures to limit COVID exposure that helped reduce the rate last winter. You can follow your right wing denial sources all you want . I know full well there's nothing I or anyone else not on the extreme right can change your mind. 98% + of the world is wrong. Only the true believers of the far right have all the answe
  13. Enjoy your alternate universe. I prefer this one .
  14. However much some try to deny the effectiveness of masks in HELPING to limit the spread of the virus , the fact is the anti-maskers and those that refuse to practice social distancing are the very reason the pandemic is still as bad as it is. It amazes me how some people can ignore the WHO and the vast majority of doctors everywhere to listen to the conspiracy theorists and the very small minority that pooh pooh the recommendations of the world wide medical community. Flu is way down simply because the measures taken by the majority to try to limit COVID also are effecti
  15. The first digit represents the country of origin. The most common are: 1 or 4 = USA 2 = Canada 3 = Mexico J = Japan K = Korea E = England W = Germany Z = Italy 2nd and 3rd letters signify Arctic Cat 4th and 5th are model year 6-8 are type (SNW snowmobile, ATV, MPV prowler etc) 9th is a check digit 10th is the last digit of the year (9 = 2009, A=2010, B=2011, C=2012 etc) 11th is a "T" This one I don't know why, just that its alwa

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