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davefrombc last won the day on June 22

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About davefrombc

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  • Birthday 09/09/1943
  • Location Vancouver, BC, Canada

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  1. My guesses ....Bad ground, neutral switch or relay, wonky ignition switch.
  2. The symptoms you describe all point to fuel problems , and a stcking float needle valve is the most likely culprit .
  3. That sounds like the float or needle valve in the float bowl is sticking and not letting the fuel into the float bowl. . You might als try disconecting the fuel line and asee if fuel flows freely from it .. There could be an obstruction in the line or fuel petcock.
  4. A lot more information is needed before anyone can begin to try to help you . There is a download of the service manual for the 400ex in the forum's archives .. Go to Browse at the top then click downloads and click through to the Honda section service manuals. If the motor turns over , check the spark plug for spark and the carb is getting fuel. If it doesn't turn over, then check battery, fuses and neutral switch for starters.. Then use the service manual as a guide to check other components .
  5. I wouldn't think they'd interfere with the spark.. They are part of the charging circuit.. The pickup coil uses voltage produced in the stator to send a pulse to the CDI at the proper point in the cycle to fire the spark plug. The stator is producing a constant 3 phase ac voltage the regulator / rectifier changes to the 12v DC for the charging system .
  6. Here is the link to download the yfm 250xl 1998 service manual .. Your 2000 250cc motor most likely has the same stator and pickup coil.
  7. Did you check the pickup coil that works with the stator to produce the pulses necessary for the spark?. .The stator not only produces the voltage pulse the pickup coil uses for the spark circuit , but also the voltage for charging the battery. The stator and /or the pickup could be bad and still produce some voltage.
  8. Sounds to me like either there is still some blockage in the fuel passages of the carb making it run lean without the choke on, or possibly the throttle slide needle is set wrong .. This video on rebuilding the carb might help:
  9. Check that the quad is in neutral for certain. From that point it is a case of trouble shooting the wiring . You can download the service manual for that quad here: Page 327 has the wiring diagram for the starting system
  10. I also came up with Bayou 185 searching on that info. Lots of hits on sites offering parts for it.
  11. I looked at the title of the request and realized it was actually an mz 100 you needed info on ...Searching on that didn't bring much of help up. Seems it was a Chinese quad imported into Europe by a German company .. Searching on it brought up a forum where someone stated it was a licensed copy of a Jehm Blazer. Searching on that, I found there are some US dealers in them and parts.. You may be able to get more info from one of them. I hope this helps and you're able to get the little mz running .
  12. Searching on mx 100 ATV and muz mx100 ATV brings up references to Yamaha mx100.. That is quite possibly the quad you have.. Try searching on that and see if it is the same quad you're working on .
  13. Then all is working as it should.. The fan won't cut off unless the engine cools below the temperature sensor switch turn on point and the switch opens.. You could just wire in a switch to disconnect the fan switch. I wouldn't recommend it though. Kawasaki had a reason to set it up that way , and if you wire in a switch to disconnect the fan switch it is too easy to forget to turn it back on when you want to run the quad and end up overheating it. You could wire in a master disconnect between the battery and the wire to the ignition to disconnect all power so nothing will be powered with it off; but as long as your battery is good it won't hurt anything to let the fan run until the engine cools to the point the fan switch opens and the fan turns off on its own... It easily could take a half hour or more on a hot day. but the fan motor shouldn't draw a lot of current and deplete the battery. I would be inclined to just wire in a battery disconnect. Not only does it ensure there are no powered circuits when it is opened, but it also slows down a thief who just tries to hotwire the ignition . It won't stop determined thieves who knows to look for a disconnect , but it does slow them down and could be just the delay needed to make them look elsewhere.
  14. Something you could try with a cold engine. Try jumping across the temperature sensor to turn on the fan and see if it still stays latched on when you disconnect the jumper.. Don't disconnect the temperature switch, just jumper across it.
  15. What I was saying in the last paragraph is that if there is a hot wire to the fan when ignition is on or off, and the temperature switch switches the ground side of the fan wires then a spurious ground would keep it running....From what you say , once the fan is turned on by the temperature switch then it stays on until the coolant cools to the point the switch opens whether the key is on or not. It sounds odd to me, but that may be the way it is designed and there is nothing wrong. I have no idea if that is the way with your machine , but I know in the automotive world that is the way some electric fans work and also some oil pumps for turbo charger coolers. My reference to "Fun" was really meant to refer to the frustration that is far too common trying to trace down electrical faults... It certainly isn't enjoyable .