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Mech last won the day on January 5

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About Mech

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  1. Yeah could be a leaking float needle valve, or the float level might be set too high, or there might be a leak between the float needle valve's brass housing/seat and the carby body. Take the carby apart and pull the float out, then the needle and then the needle's seat. Check the "O" ring or washer that seals between the seat and carby body, then put that in and check the needle's clean and put that in, then fit the float and check it's height adjustment.
  2. Ok. I've been keeping a look out for you... I'll keep watching. To go with the press you will need a couple of short lengths of what I think you guys call girder steel.. it's cross section is like a capital I... That's a capital "eye", not an "L". It needs to be big stuff, like six inches tall and about four across the two side plates. That's to support the crank on the bed of the press. You also want a bit of angle iron about two inches by two inches. That doesn't need to be very long, about eight inches will be plenty. It's what you use to align the crank webs as you start pressin
  3. Sounds like you need to fix the earth wire or connection, and it may not come out of gear because the gears in the diff are wound up and can't let the engaging dog slide till you back up a little.. that's quite common on a lot of things.
  4. Simple things first.. You could try a new spark plug.. that black/rich could be caused by it misfiring. Misfiring could also be caused by some other electrical problem as has been said but those things need diagnosing and are dearer to fix.. The idle mixture only effects idling and a tiny amount of throttle, after that other jets take over. You should check the air-cleaner, and also, those things have an auto fuel cutoff tap which plays up sometimes and lets the sump fill with petrol.. check the oil level.. If it's too full, or if fuel seems to be disappearing out of the tank, check the f
  5. Yeah, that isn't a good look for a new piston alright.. Good onya finding it.
  6. Hi. How long has it been doing this, and did you do anything to it before it started doing this ? And are you saying it sits there idling at the right speed for a while, then starts revving by itself ? You should check it doesn't have air leaks between the carby and the head, and probably clean the carby and then check it's idle mixture adjustment.
  7. Hi again. My problem with the movie is my crappy internet connection. Yeah sometimes we can get blind once we've looked at a thing too long.. sometimes a new pair of eyes, or even just a break and when we come back it's obvious.. So does the sound get louder with load ? Which would sort of point to the bottom end, even though you are sure the bottom end looked and felt ok, and the noise sounds like the top.. but.. If it gets louder with a heavier load ? When you checked the conrod for play, did you make sure you were testing it at the crank position where the play would be on the crank
  8. I can't listen to your movie.. so does this noise happen at idle, or only with a few revs, and does it get louder if you put a load on it, or does it rattle worse when there's no load on it ? In neutral, if you just gently bring the revs up a little and then back down again, does the noise come in as the revs are building up, or as the revs top out and the load comes off it, or is it worse as it slows down again ? And would the noise be at the speed of the piston going up and down, or only every second stroke, so on the firing, or perhaps something in one valve ?
  9. Well... Did you ride it before taking it apart ? Could it have had the noise before you worked on it ? What was the original problem you were fixing ? So the timing chain stopped the rubbing noise, that's not the noise you have now ? And.. does it make the noise when it starts up cold, does it get louder or quieter as it warms up ? Did you check the piston pin fit in the conrod ? And are you listening to the noise through a screwdriver to your ear when you say the noise is coming from the top end/valve cover, or is that just where it sounds like from a distance ?
  10. Well since the cdi sparks when it wants to I doubt it's faulty. In the smaller models there's a neutral relay that has wires going into it from the neutral and reverse lights and the kill switch and the starter button... If that thing has that relay I'd be checking it out and it's earth wire.. I see in the manual I have here for a 300 that there's also a diode in the neutral circuit.. that might be a suspect too.. You really need a workshop manual and then start tracing the power through one wire at a time going to the cdi unit. Check the neutral switch, neutral diode and neutral relay..
  11. Hi. You can't fit a regular clear plastic filter to a fuel injected bike.. They have about forty pounds of pressure in the lines and it could burst and start a fire. I'd be suspecting an electronic fault. That time related aspect sounds like an electronic component getting hot then failing, then cooling and starting to work again. I'd suspect cdi or ecu. That said, there was a case in here the other week that turned out to be a tight valve clearance. Checking the valve clearance would be a good idea. And, in all problem diagnosis they always say as the first step.. do a standard
  12. Dang... Posted in the wrong thread.. Problems with a slow connection.. Haha So is the battery going flat while the bikes parked up, or after two days of being used.. I'd be checking the charging system's working. Put a multi meter on Dc on the battery while it's running and see it's got at least thirteen volts. Then I'd put the gauge to AC and check the power for ripple.. if it has a faulty diode in the regulator there will be some AC showing, and a dud diode could be what's draining the battery.
  13. Hi. You can't fit a normal clear plastic fuel filter to a fuel injected system, they have about forty pounds of pressure in the line. I'd be suspecting that your problem's an electrical fault, and an electronic fault to be exact.. So cdi unit or something in the ecu. The fact it takes a certain amount of time, rather than load or throttle to cause it is what makes me think that, and the fact it takes a few minutes to cool down again. Overheating electronics do that. That said, there was a case in here the other week with similar symptoms and it turned out to be tight valve clearance
  14. The symptoms don't really sound like the advance curve. Have you had a timing light on it ? The five you returned, are you saying they wouldn't even make a spark ? Because that sounds so unlikely that I'd have to suspect you have some other problem. Have you checked the wiring, and the trigger and stator outputs ? I think I've seen a few instances in here and other places of yamahas having wiring problems up around the steering head..
  15. Ok, well I'm not sure what's wrong but it sounds like the bike's trying to start off with the driven pulleys too far apart or the drive pulleys too close together. Either thing will make it seem like it's in too higher gear. Since you've had the driven pulleys and centrifugal clutch hub apart I'd guess you might have assembled that wrong. I think you will have to take it apart again and check how it's assembled and that everything's nicely lubed and free to move. I think that if you look at an Arctic Cat manual it will be pretty much the same. There's probably manual on this site.

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