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Dra O

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About Dra O

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  • Location Dallas, TX, USA

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  1. carb is out and cleaned - bunch of same crap in float bowl that was in fuel tank (almost sawdust looking crap). many of the holes on some of the internal screws were gummed up. the air/fuel mixture screw had half of an o-ring and no washer protecting o-ring from spring. everything from carb rebuild kit online fit flawlessly. going to be reinstalling carb but had a few more questions: 1) the float height: my manual says 13mm - i'm pretty close to this using calipers and following angle of float bowl body (I hope so, anyway) 2) the needle groove notches - I THINK mine was set on 3rd or 4th groove - I don't remember - any idea the factory setting? I figure the 3rd groove would be safe 3) I think I've read before where it's 2 5/8 turns out (on the air/fuel mixture screw (if that's the right piece) - is this right? 4) people talk of "too rich" or "too lean" - what the world does this mean? i'd like my quad to idle a bit revved up - that's just me - and I think I can adjust this on a piece on the side of the carb (took it off while cleaning carb - the end of it abuts the piece that opens the main valve - turn it one way, valve opens, turn it opposite way, valve closes) 5) after I install the carb, how will I tell if it's running optimally? remember, I've not owned a quad before - this is all new to me. 6) last thing: how long to hose lines last? my quad is a 1999 (300 LTF). i'm worried about crap or build up on the inside of the lines. would I be wise to replace all the lines going to the carb? I figure I could find hose online - like a 50 foot role of it - for cheap. does 0.5cm ID and 1cm OD sound about right? any help/direction continues to be appreciated
  2. got it running today, frank. FINALLY.... 😀 the pump wouldn't prime until I filled up the tank to almost full (over the level of the fuel pump) - oh, and it helps to turn petcock to the, um, "prime" position (I am an idiot). but once I did this the gas spit out the other side of the pump. the engine idled and everything. pretty pumped about this (no pun intended). as luck would have it, however, once I turned the engine off I noticed the carb dripping gas everywhere, especially from the bottom hole - looks like a carb rebuild is next on the list. from what you tube videos I've watched it looks like the floats may be affected. alright, so I changed the oil last weekend - new ring, filter - everything. the oil looked really good in the window after filling. when I started the machine today, the oil in the glass turned light brown, like it had dirt in it. the old oil looked fine, just really dark. when I changed the oil I didn't tilt the machine upward to get ALL of the oil out of the oil cooling lines - could this be it? but the old oil was black.... or could it be simply, I don't know, bubbles in the oil that makes it look light brown while the engine is running? it's been 6 hours since I started it and I just checked the oil window and it's back to brown / normal again. probably worrying too much. I lined the underside of the innermost rubber petcock gasket, the o-ring and outer "bent" ring with a thin film of permatex and it hasn't leaked yet. thank you for helping, man - I may have screamed like a little girl once it idled, but there's ultimately no need to pass this along to anyone, m'kay? you do a great service to folks like me - you oughta have a tip jar or something. with your knowledge base, you ever think of making you tube videos? you'd have a great following. yeah, the one I bought is like half the size of the original and it lacked the valve on the back. I was told the back valve wasn't needed. I was able to salvage the plastic straw-like pieces that draw in the fuel - they fit a bit tighter in my original petcock. with the original I also put a thin layer of Permatex on the underside of the innermost gasket, a thin bead around the o-ring and a bit on the bent circular piece (likely didn't help here but whatevs) - and it hasn't leaked yet (this was about 1-2 months ago with gas in the tank). once I start riding it again this may change, but right now it's tight as can be.
  3. Frank, thanks for the info - I will try to prime the new petcock this weekend with a hose - that sounds like a good idea - will use the existing hose that goes to carb. *** but shouldn't the fuel pump be spitting out gas to the other side when I crank the engine? it isn't doing this....
  4. I thought a petcock was a petcock (for a king quad 300). I got it on ebay for about 10 clams. it is different from original - the anchor holes line up on the tank perfectly but the diaphragm on the new on is slightly smaller than the original - and the rubber gasket on new petcock is just a hair too large for the original petcock, so much so that i'd have to splice it, defeating the purpose of the gasket and risking a leak. I put original petcock back on today and it was leaking at the switch side (the on, prime, reserve side) - it seats well at against gas tank but the diaphragm, being 20 years old, is flat. i didn't want to spend 100 clams on new, crazy-expensive petcock to fit my specific machine but I may have to (120 on amazon and ebay - can't return it if used - lovely). I watched a youtube video of a guy "fixing" a petcock on his Harley (similar carbs, apparently) - he elongated internal spring AND warped the inner metal piece even more (to increase tension/pressure behind the switch side) but this didn't work to remedy the issue. this is getting frustrating, especially having a funky model x mukini and not the y version - there are plenty of parts for the y version. might oughta consider selling the beast as is - it didn't cost me anything. or take it to a shop and spend a few hundred clams - I don't know if it's even worth that much.
  5. posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it? -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
  6. Dra O

    Dra O

  7. It was, as some mentioned, the battery. I had a cheap, tiny battery from Academy - worked only a few times - likely not enough juice but it was rated for atvs. recharged the old one fully and it is working. ordered some back 25x10x12 tires from ebay tonight for 115 clams - not a bad price - old ones worn nearly flat. Are there any heavier duty batteries you guys recommend? Are foreign batteries decent? Big differences in prices. And: taking off the fenders - there are Phillips head screws on outer and a nut of some sort inside fender wells. I nearly stripped the outer screw at one place earlier. What's an easy way to take off the screws? Might need to bite the inside nut w/ a wrench....
  8. I’ll get the o-ring - thanks for the advice. Was hauling brush today and the Quad stopped. Made a clicking sound while trying to start. Is this the starter? Can a layman with a bit of small engine repair experience change it? Battery is new. Hate to be throwing a thousand questions at this forum since I’m new....
  9. Thanks for replying AJ. The oil actually looks pretty good per finger dip from back pan - air filter and spark plug very clean. The video covers a lot. Thanks again.
  10. 1999 King Quad - recently inherited per grandfather in law's death - has 6100 miles (or hours... likely miles). Brakes work, forward/reverse operable, lights intact, pulls bad to the right but has good general power. Tires are literally bald. I don't see any general leaking of fluids around engine. Will only be using it for general things around my land - no racing/mudding. Since I don't know the maintenance schedule (likely maintained fairly routinely), what things should I be looking for? 1) I want to look at/change oil - can do that - but was looking at youtube video - is that a rubber gasket i'll need to replace where the oil filter goes? Is there a chance I won't have to replace said gasket if I'm careful? It's no problem getting one online.... 2) Will pull/inspect spark plug - likely replace. 3) What other general things would you guys recommend I focus on? Or maybe I should just wait until something happens! Any advice appreciated.

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