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Dra O

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Dra O last won the day on February 29

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About Dra O

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  • Location Dallas, TX, USA

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  1. that's crazy, considering the number of folks affected in NYC alone. stay away from folks - make it TEN feet away - wear gloves - wear a mask if have it and take it off only to eat, drink or curse the engineers - leave early if you can - strip to your skivvies in the garage - take a shower, then interact w/ family. i haven't spent this much time with my boys in a LONG time and am enjoying it - received new solenoid from RM Stator today and installing it on king quad tonight w/ oldest son - wife and I going crazy w/ two man-sized teens fighting all the time but we'll look back on it and laugh. my salary was reduced earlier this week - this is hitting people DEEP, man, but we'll pull through
  2. You lay some of the blame - and even deaths - directly on Trump? To what other institutions or people do you lay the remainder of your blame? Do you blame life-long smokers who are predisposed to contracting breathing-related diseases like COVID19? What about those with cystic fibrosis or lung cancer? No country or person can foresee a future pandemic. We both know this. If another individual were in office and the same scenario ensued, I wonder if you'd also blame this individual. Trump or any other president could fund the hell out of the CDC, NIH, drug companies and mask manufacturers, but guess what: it wouldn't matter. It takes time to assess the virulence of a disease, who it affects, the degree to which it affects certain people/populations. A government is likely not going to say, "Okay, every single person stays home for 8 weeks" at the onset of a pandemic/other disaster. It takes time to see what occurs. No pharma company can create a vaccine in two months. It takes time. No company is able to manufacture 500+ million masks overnight. It takes time. To think Trump wasn't ultimately following the advice of the CDC and top virologists is ridiculous. Trump doesn't give a rat's dropping of what others think about him. This makes him effective in my book. And that's MY book, just as you have YOUR book. In my book, I'm right - in your book, you're right. We all have roughly 80 years on this earth and are free to make decisions about what we, individually, deem right, just and true of our own accord based (largely) on our lived experiences. We have one confirmed case of COVID19 in my town in Texas. 47 year old male - he was in Washington 2 weeks prior to being diagnosed - is recovering well at a local hospital. I've yet to diagnose any cases only because my clinic has no testing kits. If I suspect COVID, I'll send them directly to one of two hospitals and let them make the final determination, as they have the testing kits (in limited supply). Avoid crowds. Wash your hands often. Hydrate. Rest. Cover your freakin' mouth when coughing. Treat your symptoms at home with OTC medications. If OTC medications don't relieve your symptoms and your symptoms worsen, see your medical practitioner. But, as Dave mentioned, you'll likely not be tested unless you meet a specific set of criteria. My wife is making me strip down prior to entering our home in the evening - I leave the skivvies on... but it is NOT a pretty sight - my clothes go straight into the washing machine - then I take a shower, eat and finish my notes from the clinic during the remainder of my evening. We now shop later in the evening to avoid the crowds. types "stay safe people" from 44 stories up. DAYUM, frank - what's wrong with you? it's obviously a fever - please get that treated.
  3. That's crazy - and I'd think a significant loss of revenue for them. Hell, start making them with OPDs, tack on $300 more and maintain sales. The same thought ran across my mind, MarkinAR re: owners. It'll be here before long - ATVs, riding mowers and go karts. --> on a side note, do you work on ATVs in LR? I'm not too far south from you. Just curious.
  4. yep - the seam at end of forceps goes all along the internal joint - I can push the box toward the rear and see the gap widening just a hair. don't see any other visible joint spaces or fluid/moisture. should be able to take air box out without touching carb. gonna hit it with a hose this weekend or next to make sure that's it - but I don't have any doubts. weird how I just wanted to check the filter and found this surprise makes me want to leave cap off end to let water flow but don't want any critters in airbox and it may affect performance so, silicone along outside joint after letting it dry for 48-72 hours? I wouldn't think it'd be an issue putting it on inside, as well re: solenoid - I agree - they're $30 but will likely last a lot longer. putting grease/permaseal on outside joints to prevent moisture won't hurt, will it? and yessir, it was water - no gas smell - no greasy residue
  5. took the KQ out for a brief spin - runs really good in this warmer weather. got home - checked air filter just for kicks - perfect - bright yellow and dry - removed filter out and noticed water in bottom of air box. not a lot and it didn't get the filter wet. found drain plug, let it drain, recapped and good to go. how the hell did water get into the sealed airbox? I rode it near/around our lake but didn't submerge the machine (i'm not that brave) - at most I rode across 1/4 of water for about 20 feet. the machine has been under my house in a constant 72 degree, dry environment since last summer. lastly - any specific brands of solenoids you all like? RM Stator's looks good and has a 2 year warranty - but I thought stens made one at one time - I cannot find stens online. Before putting plastics back on (always enjoyable, like getting carb out) I replaced original solenoid with new one off amazon (<$10) - put ALL the plastics back on and it lasted all of 2-3 months until the ol' clickety click click click - bottom of amazon solenoid had rust on it, so i'm imagining rust on internal magnet - tapped it good w/ hammer but couldn't get it to loosen up. Took plastics back off, replaced with original solenoid and it's going good (at 20 years old). not gonna replace solenoid until have a reputable one - and I may put a light film of grease or permaseal around the joints to keep water out. thoughts?
  6. RM Stator will rebuild/repair stators, too. Good to know.
  7. measuring from a computer picture not very accurate, but it looks like if you got rid of the gaps you'd have room for one more magnet video from an arctic cat 400 but may help - start at 2:00 - your issue may be at 3:00 but i'm pretty confident you've already done this
  8. great stator pics, frank - will help me in the future on the honda. i'd seen youtube video on magnets coming off, too. that thing sounds ROUGH, man. you'll get there
  9. dig that advice, laval. thank you.
  10. the ignition switches for sale online are connected the exact opposite way than in the pictures below: into the white plastic piece are the red and black w/ white stripe wires and the ones hanging free are the green and solid black wire - buyers of the switch comment, "hooked it up and it ran just fine" - but the wires are not in the same pieces as what came with the machine. I could buy an original ignition switch from honda but it's $50. on a cheap ignition switch from amazon could I not split the white plastic piece open and replace w/ the correct wires in the picture? i'd likely have to resolder the wires on the switch itself and I can do this - would have to mark which wires go where but don't know if this tactic would be wise - i'd be out $10-12 if it didn't work - unless someone with a knowledge of electricity can shed some advice
  11. for my knowledge - two questions while thinking about stator: 1) you're checking stator to see if any of the coils are bad/burned, checking the pulse generator and testing the voltage/ohm readings on the stator and i guess the pulse generator as well to see if w/in specs? 2) when you take off the cover to get to the stator, does the oil need to be drained first? asking because I eventually wanna check the stator on the 1986 honda trx 250 I picked up - the wires coming out of it are loose - someone has been in the case before, apparently (no surprise)
  12. Not even a $50 bill? But this one has KEYS, dammit - and LIKELY a title! But I hear ya. No tellin' how deep that wiring crap goes. Tell me this: is that battery scenario even possible? I mean, he said he ran the entire thing off that marine battery - starting it, using the winch, lights, everything. Isn't that too much power? I think those marine batteries run at a lower power setting overall - would it be powerful enough to start the thing? There weren't even any wires in the battery area - everything was hooked up to the marine battery. Odd - and beyond my knowledge. Rednecks are inventive, gotta give them (us) that! By the way - the Honda TRX 250 wasn't getting a spark - I dried out the CDI with a heat gun (versus oven) for a few minutes last night and it now has a spark. But it still isn't starting. I'll go back to that post for the other things to check. One thing at a time.
  13. he likely can find it - he spent a few hours looking for the key last night - he's kind of a hoarder
  14. you ever part anything out? I hear people doing this on ebay but wonder if they make their money back. carb likely good and I can rebuild that if needed - saw an original carb on ebay for a $175 but it doesn't mean it'll sell

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