Mhatayas

I've since switched to another carb,I've read online a lot of people switched to smaller carbs due to flooding issues. This worked for me . Switched from the original vm34 to a vm32 from my 85 2wd bike. It was running perfectly, UNTIL, get this : Bike runs for 15mins or so till it gets hot. Then it backfires a bit and makes popping noises through the carb. Then it spitters and cuts out like it don't wanna run . Let it sit for a bit to cool down then starts back up like nothing happened. don't know if this is a fuel pump issue or some sort of electrical or mechanical issue? Man I thought I finally had this bike ready to take on a run. Guess not

Hey folks, thanks for the responses. I've since gave up on the Chinese carb. Went back to the original fuel pump, drilled hole put valve in intake Boot etc.. still same troubles. I'm back to the regular OEM slider carb now, the original that is supposed to be on the bike. I got it from a friend, he's been using it on his ATV (same year and model as mine) for years with no issues. I put it on mine, it worked perfectly, for about 20mins riding. Then it started flooding when I would let off the throttle. It would sputter and sometimes almost cut out before it picked up again. But this is only after about 20mins of riding in 4th and 5th gear on a road throttle nearly wide Open. As soon as i let off, it seems it wants to sputter and flood out. I went and cleaned the carb inspection the needle and seat etc, cleaned tank replaced fuel petcock... New fuel filter. Still same issue. Do you think I should set the needle height a little lower? Or the float tab a little higher? The float tab is at about 35 degrees as it is . Is there some other type of issues I can be overlooking? Already tried adjusting the air fuel screw, still didn't make any difference. I should note, that the intake boot is from a newer model Suzuki lt4wd bike. It's a tad bit larger diameter than the old slider carb boots. That being said , I cut off about 1/2 inch of the boot, since there is an inner lip that's smaller diameter than the outside of the boot where the carb fits. The inner lip seals perfect with the older carb accompanied by a hose clamp. No leaks, sealed great, as well the rear boot is sealed great too. Don't think that could cause an issue would it ? I know it's a carb flooding issue because the overflow tube leaks gas when this happens, and it cut out once or twice and wouldn't start after that , plug soaked. Kind of boggled, since it was taken off the same type of bike working fine, and now doesent want to work properly on mine.

Ok. After a through carb clean I'm still having the same issue. Either too much or too little fuel depending on float tab setting. THERE IS NO IN BETWEEN!!! Seriously flustered with it all. It seems the needle/seat won't seat correctly. The vacuum port I drilled is up in the Intake manifold, used a presta valve from bicycle. Works well. Would it be too much pressure though? The carb seems to be spat out from the manifold at times with the back pressure? Is this possibly why the needle seat wont seat ? As much as I don't want to , I think I might just have to find another carb or buy one and use . Sucks . Wish I could take the rig for a run already.

Ok so , I got the float tab vent upwards near 45 degrees, and turns out there was a bit of crud in the needle seat. Ran good for 5mins of riding then it seemed like it starved itself for fuel. What should I do to the carb now , should I set needle height? I don't know yet if it's running lean or rich . I will have to get a new spark plug and check it out

Alls well there thankfilly! The fire was near the rear left tire, where the exhaust joins together. But today I figured something out snf why it's hard starting. Was running good for about 5min beforehand I setup a nibbi pe30 carb on my 87 quadrunner, paired with a low 1-2 psi electric fuel pump. Problem I'm having (i think) is the float needle/seat is not sealing properly and allowing fuel to pass it. whenever I turn on the key the pump keeps pumping fuel through and it overflow and leak through back of the carb. I tried adjusting the float tab to multiple different positions and it either would do one of the two , overflow or not flow enough fuel at all to let the bike run. Trying to figure out all potential issues here , fuel pump too high pressure causing fuel to force the needle/seat open and float not able to seal it on its own , or debris possible stuck in there ? Note that it worked good for about a minute before I noticed the bike bogging past half throttle, go to look at carb and it's leaking a constant trickle of fuel out the back . Any help is appreciated

Ok folks! After a new set of rings , installed with the gaps away from eachother, it seems, it's no longer smoking blue! Can't even see any exhaust! Very happy. But get this , I installed a Chinese nibbi pe30 carb, and electric fuel pump. The overflow hose on the carb is extremely long and just happened to drop fuel onto my exhaust during a backfire! You can guess what happened next. (This was right after the new rings installed and tested out. It did smoke blue for the first 30Seconds to a minute. But now no longer! ) In panic mode, I pushed the ATV out of my shed and pulled it out further into the snow where it wouldn't catch my shed on fire. I started throwing snow at it and luckily after a minute or so it went out . Phew, only burnt a bit of the overflow line off. I have up for the night and went back at it tomorrow. It seems the pull cord is too easy to pull over than it ever was, and it's hard to start with e start even. Though it idles and runs perfectly when it's going. I'm gonna change plugs anyhow because it's possible oil fouled . And the only problem now besides the starting issue, is anywhere past half throttle, it bogs and runs rough. Stutters. Seems like it's getting too much fuel or something. I May fiddle with the carb set the needle height, what do you think? It didn't do this at first when it was smoking blue . To confirm the smoke problem is gone , I added another quart of oil bringing the grand total up to 2l (still need another 1.5l Messenger_creation_92D48F5A-EE65-417F-89CE-B11688DE1340.mp4 Forgot to mention I'm going to do a compression test on it too now. But the main problem is thankfully solved !

yup swapped heads as well. one breather isnt hooked up for sure, one on the right transmission side just beneath the fender, dont know which hose is which. At this point mech, im just waiting till i get the new parts and testing the waters there, i pause the work on it for now before i get totally frustrated. Ill wit till next month . In other words, see ya in a months times LoL

Thanks ... The piston did slide up white nicely, and I used a cylinder and piston and rings from another bike that DIDNT SMOKE , so i knew it was good. I never gapped them or checked the gapa but everything honestly looked as it should. Cylinder still had crosshatch on the bottom half not so much up top, but it didn't smoke. When I put the parts from the bike that didn't smoke on the bike that did, the bike still smoke! If timing was off a little bit , would this cause smoke? It might be off by a tooth when I put it together.I'm sure valve guide seals are good because the other bike didn't smoke. I'l take it all apart AGAIN I guess. I am getting so frustrated with it at this point. This is my second plug that oil fouled by the way . No oil =no smoke , I drained it (the litre that was left in there ) and let the bike run and no blue smoke . Go figure. I got a new set of rings ordered anyhow

Correct, oil was halfway in the sight glass, none came out the filler cap, just burning it like crazy. Wonder if i didn't install the rings correctly? i tried to make sure the gaps weren't lined up with each other. This is so frustrating and annoying

Just to make sure we are on the same Page mech, im not talking about my 2wd chain driven lt250 im talking about the LT4WD bike i recently obtained. with the high low and super low 15gear transmission.

Possible that carborator i have, the diagphram that isnt meant for the engine causing this ? i dont understand. I have a nibbipe30 carb and electric fuel pump ordered for it anyway, so ill be selling these oem carbs when i get the chance. I was dumb and gave away the old slider carb i had for it

Yup thats the spot, hard to get to, says 3500ML right next to it. I filled it until i seen it in the sight glass, ran it for a bit and filled again till i seen it was between the two marks in sight glass. it burnt so much oil in juat a tank of gas there was just about a litre left, as well didnt stop smoking till there was practically none left in there..

Says 3500ml . I filled it until the oil was between the marks on the sight glass When I took the top off a bit of oil poured out. There's oil in the combustion chamber since I see it on the spark plug. If I flush the engine with Diesel or kerosene think that'll help me ?

So I noticed there is no crankcase vent hose, does the hose that's supposed to run there go to the air box or up under the dash ? I'm talking about the one on the right side crankcase just beneath the fender

What about the oil pump? would that have any effect on it i wonder, maybe something is clogged? would the oil pump be a component that would just stop working properly?