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1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once. Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms. I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ?? This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward. Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates? I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage. Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????

I picked up a 1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2X4 a week or so back in non running condition, apparently they said it needed a new carburetor or a battery, I cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and got it running on idle and without choke now and it shifts into all the gears even into reverse. Aside from making me bounce a little when trying to start out with a bit of throttle the shock suffice to say needs work. Anyways I made a video of it running and would like your opinions on it, as to how it sounds while running. It seems like it has a little whine I'm not sure why that is maybe someone can tell me what it is. Anyways here is the video.

My old Big Bear nearly left me stranded but I managed to limp back to my garage just before it died. Now No Spark. I’ve changed the obvious, inexpensive and easy parts- spark plug & coil without any luck. Ive stripped it down and traced all of the related wiring, checking as many connections as I can but no luck again. Next I pulled the cover and accessed the stator housing to inspect and do some resistance testing to ID a possible short. Here are my readings: Source coil- 325 ohms Pickup coil- 225 Can anyone tell me if these are good numbers, and if good, where to go next? I assume my next purchase will either be a new stator or CDI, but since neither of these tend to be returnable items I want to be as sure as I can I’m gonna get a resolution to the problem!! Thanks, Gary in SC

I have a 1988 Big Bear 350 4x4. I had to take apart my front brake pistons and thoroughly clean them. The internal gaskets appear new from when I had bike shop I thought do a brake repair. Seems like they just replaced gaskets and didn't bother cleaning or clearing any of the trash from system. I put everything back together and try bleeding system and pumping up brakes. The front piston on both sides will just barely build up and it does hold and when I bleed them I get a solid stream of fluid so don't believe there is any blockage. Also to note the bleed valve is after the rear piston on each side so fluid is reaching it but for some reason not building pressure I'm guessing. How can I tell if I need to rebuild my master cylinder ? Pic - the piston on left is before and right is after I cleaned one.