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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  2. 1 point
    Thanks for the great info! Just checked out the links you sent. I'm going with the first one and I should be good!
  3. 1 point
    For those in the Northeast, this weekend is going to be a hot one. This upcoming weekend is the Snow Shoe Rails to Trails Chicken BBQ event which we attend every year. Last year for our Jumping Jack, I made a "Redneck Air conditioner" but I found sticking the hose in the door way got in the way. This year I improved upon it and found a way to have the cold air blow into the front window without cutting or sewing the marine canvas. I didn't want to compromise the canvas in any way so I came up with a way to hold it in place with magnets. Made strips of magnets with duct tape and used clear vinyl to cover the window and attach the duct coming from the air conditioner. I did replace the hose with one that is a bit longer, found it on Ebay since you can't buy vinyl dryer duct hose anymore. We are ready for the hot weekend of riding and camping, and the hose won't get in our way anymore.
  4. 1 point
    Went on a great ride on Sunday from the M-33 trail head to the Lupton trailhead in the Huron National Forest. More videos from the ride to be uploaded to the channel soon.
  5. 1 point
    I would look toward a sound bar more so then a dash mounted radio. Here is a link that has a few for your model. I think it was on the second page of parts. https://www.everythingkawasakiteryx.com/kawasaki-teryx-accessories.html As far as gauges go take a look on Amazon. There are quite a few universal gauge mounts that go on any dash and look good. GlowShift Universal Black Triple Gauge Console Dashboard Pod with Dome Lip - Fits Any Make/Model - ABS Plastic - Mounts (3) 2-1/16" (52mm) Gauges to Vehicle's Dash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NZ9NSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MhHnDbASW5WC6
  6. 1 point
    Thank you guys for all the help my son's four wheeler is up and running after putting a neutral safety switch in Polaris trail boss 325 couldn't have done it without you guys
  7. 1 point
    I came across an odd temporary fix for a 1985 yamaha 80 ATV. It has no spark, yet if I warm the CDI unit up a bit with a heat gun or hair dryer then it fires right up and runs fine until shut off then it returns to no spark until warmed up again. Partzilla shows $217 for a new CDI It's sort of nuts how I found out the fix to warm it up. My old shop TV requires my heat gun warm up around the transformer area every day before it will turn on too.
  8. 1 point
    Every one of the rider has his freedom to prepare car as good as he can and to paint it whatever he likes. The only one important thing is to be last stand on the field :). There were many different type of cars European and Russian. Legends like Volga ( yellow one ) and Moskvich 412 Model ( orange one ). Winner of the event was the purple BMW 5-th Series ride on the final against Orange Moskvich 412.
  9. 1 point
    Hi All, Want to show you one automotive show that I filmed in my town called Crazy Race. This was two day race in Qualifications round, Semifinals and Final. In this 4 parts I am showing best moments from all rounds and entertainment of the show. Crazy Race Part 2 contains a qualifying round where all riders race against each other, selected by lot and split by two. They are free to drive in any direction and to hit their opponent's car everywhere except at the driver's door. Anyone who intentionally hit the other car in the driver's door is disqualified. Winner of each race continue in the semifinal round. In this part I will present the best moments of the qualifying round! Part 3 shows you the best moments from Day 2 - Semifinals and Final. Battles in the semifinals are among the winners of the first day races, but this time they are selected by lot and divided into 4 battles of 4-5 cars each. The rules in each battle are that they only have to drive in one direction and try to neutralize other opponents until there are only two players left. Then the battle between the two last drivers has the rule to drive in any direction until only one who has qualified for the final round is left. Again, anyone who intentionally hit the other car in the driver's door is disqualified. For the final round there were only two cars left, because the other two players who got the right to be there had problems with their car and could not participate. Part 4 containing entertainments between battles and winners rewarding. This event will have second round in 05-06 October 2019 and also will be filmed For this new round I will filmed in many new angels and places. Will prepare a lot more videos and many new entertainments . This 4 videos was my first try so many things to wish for better filming in the future one. Hope you will like them and of course feel free to comment and to ask everything. Hope you will Subscribe to my channel and to be first to see my other content and of course new round of Crazy Race! Thanks!
  10. 1 point
    Thanks for taking the time to post this, its a testament to the value of our members here and our ATV community!
  11. 1 point
    Have you tried to pull the spark plug out, turn the key on and test for spark by pulling the starter cord? There is or should be a compression relief lever on the right side of the top of the cylinder head. Have you checked the kill switch? If all of that checks out there is a neutral safety switch you would locate and test with a piece of wire. On the left side of the engine where the shifter is, on the top of the motor casing cover in that area you should see two wires coming out of the engine. One is red and one is a light green. Unplug the green wire and put a jumper wire from that green on the harness side to the black (negative) terminal on the battery or any good ground point on the frame. Turn your key on and see what happens.
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for the welcome! Both bikes are on the rough side, the 4x4 had been sat outside for a very long time, lots of surface rust and flaking powder coat, dry rotted tyres etc but it really hasn't been hacked about. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, went through all electrical connections and cleaned them, put a new fuel petcock on the tank, new oil and filter, new spark plug chucked a battery on it and it fired right up. I need to go through the brakes next. I haven't spent much time on the 4x2 as I have only had it a couple of days. It is missing a few key parts like the fuel tank, gear selection pedal, cam cover etc. I will try and post some pics in the next few days. Thanks again!
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  14. 1 point
    The cdi is a sealed until. And it’s that way for a reason. It hates moisture! Any moisture gets in and it’s dead. I learned this a little while back while I was putzing around with my old cdi and went on YouTube to see what anyone has to say. One guy pointed me in the direction of putting the cdi in my oven. It worked believe it or not! Check this out.
  15. 1 point
    Those should be a 10 millimeter bolt by about a half inch in length.
  16. 1 point
    Welcome to Quadcrazy! Those are some nice bikes you picked up. What kind of shape are they in ? Post some pics, and any help or questions please ask away. You will love and enjoy this forum. We have a lot of knowledgeable members here.
  17. 1 point
    you definitely need the filter and inlet tubes connected, the carburetor needs the vacuum created by the restriction of air from air filter to work properly.
  18. 1 point
    Another old link, found on their website and corrected. Thanks!
  19. 1 point
    It is an old link and utvguide must have made new links and failed to put redirects. I just updated the link so it should work.
  20. 1 point
    Those are pretty cool trophies made from chains, clutches and brake shoes/pads. I saw some interesting cars and some interesting names on the cars. Someone has an RZR or something there, nice!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Thank you, and yes, it would probably float, however due to the engine location, the back would sit very low, and the front very high, unless l had some sort of ballast control.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    At the time I built it, I only had enough hose to make one. The hose does cause the airflow to be restricted and if I were to do as you suggest, I think it would restrict it too much and cause the thermostat to trigger to shut down the compressor. This setup cooled down the inside of the tent well enough last year with sticking the hose inside the doorway so that is all I cared about. By morning,, Michelle had both blankets on so it was plenty cool inside I looked into buying a portable unit instead, but they are bulky and use more power, since we are using a generator, power is everything. This keeps the unit outside and does not take up any space inside the tent. Mike
  25. 1 point
    Try this. Leave the key on and pull the relay. See if the relay clicks when you pull it. If so then the relay is working. Or just touch the relay and see if it clicks when you turn the key on. What I would do next is trace the wire that feeds the lights and disconnect it. See if that changes anything. Does that bike have a digital screen on it ? Any codes ?
  26. 1 point
    Welcome! What are you going to do with the plastics? You can always camo wrap it. This is from amazon for like $160 you would just need to find your fit or get the rolls Here's an example of the rolls:
  27. 1 point
    Bought for cheap a few years ago and had it restored
  28. 1 point
    Slime coats the tire and rim and is a pain to get off the rim. At my house if a plug or patch can't fix a hole in a tire it gets and inner tube. there was one time my stepfather got a flat at night and him and a friend left the wheeler on the side of the trail and spend an hour finding and inner tube then put a new one in the tire.
  29. 1 point
    2014 Honda trx 450er . Lots of west Virginia rides.
  30. 1 point
    Check out this website . It will tell you how to decode a VIN The first numbers you show are the manufacturer and last are the specific vehicle identity . https://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number
  31. 1 point
    Xwrench3 Very informative post. Thanks for sharing your experience. Warren
  32. 1 point
    the 3 most common things i have seen cause erratic running on these is 1) a plugged fuel tank vent (either improper routing or our friendly mud dauber hornets). 2) is a tiny hole in the fuel pump diaphram (at idle there isn't enough fuel draw, and at WOT there is so much of a pulse it can overcome the leak), and 3) is a delaminating intake manifold. they can delaminate internally as well as externally, so its not always easy to see. the test for the manifold leak is to have the machine idling (engine just warm enough to run without choke), and spray the manifold with water while grabbing the carb moving it in every direction. / its really difficult when you have 2 systems that can be at fault (in this case both electrical and fuel). the fuel system is easier to diagnose than the electrical, so go there first. i will add that most (but definitely not all) of the electrical problems i saw in the 40 years of doing this was related to a bad ground. a quick way to eliminate that is to run a single wire from a GOOD CLEAN (meaning sanding, filing,etc. all of the paint off) chassis ground, to a CLEAN bolt on the engine case, to the battery - terminal, and then make certain the voltage regulator and CDI box and ignition coil all have CLEAN & TIGHT contacts as well. oh, something else just popped into my head, i have seen a few cases where the ignition coil connector was worked oversize from vibration causing intermittent ignition at specific rpms. tightening the contacts up by either replacing or bending them to increase the tension fixes that. its a lot of things, but i hope it helps.
  33. 1 point
    Sounds good. Listen if that were my bike while you have everything open I would unplug the connectors and clean them with a little sand paper on (male connectors) and small flat head screw drivers and a small pic type tool inside the female connectors by gently scraping. Get some dialectic grease or electrical contact cleaner spray and apply to the connections and reconnect. It’s a smart thing to do while you have everything exposed and will guarantee solid connections. The grease or spray is cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store. Also by the way that bike looks really clean from what I can see so it looks like it’s a good machine and in tact and worth the effort.
  34. 1 point
    What's the brand of winch? A lot of them are by brand. Here's an interesting video that may help you
  35. 1 point
    New here so I figured id swing in here and say hey... I am quad crazy for sure! My current count is at ten it fluctuates often as old project's get finished traded or sold! I build quads for whoever wants to go fast, but the fun begins when fast isnt enough! I specialize in streetbike quads and built minibikes but I am constantly looking for new stuff! I normally have honda in stock for the factory riders but when we want custom I look for good rollers and put 600cc+ streetbike motors in em! Currently I have 06 polaris predator with a gsxr 600 in it and an 06 yfz450 with an sv650 in it... both are down for upgrades or rebuild. Sv650 about to be rebuilt and gxxrquad got a new exhaust valve job and sprocket set! Hopefully by memorial day 2019 one if not both will be back up! Im looking for hosting sites for pics but am thinking about starting a youtube for people to follow along as I work and build! Anyways if I can be of any assistance please send a message and I will do what I can! I may not know it all but if I can help I will do my best! Happy riding and if you see a blue or black blurr coming your way its probably me on the shop bike Gxxrquad Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Greetings, I am looking for the following 2 manuals, 2000-2005 Yamaha BigBear 400 1998 Yamaha 600 Grizzly Thanks, Todd
  38. 1 point
    There should be a way to shim that, but I would just replace it with a factory belt. Take a look at this video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiRTKqoXFPE]YouTube - Teryx Belt Deflection Test[/ame]
  39. 1 point
    2008 KAWASAKI TERYX™ 750 4x4 Features and Benefits At a glance… - First in class with a V-twin - Sport performance with gas-charged rear shocks with reservoirs - 26-inch Maxxis tires - Sealed rear wet brake - Ample 500-pound capacity cargo bed Engine - The 90-degree 749cc V-twin engine is the largest, most powerful engine in its class - Positioned mid-ship for optimum front/rear balance – good for power slides and cornering control - Straight intake tracts and 34mm downdraft carburetors enhance power delivery throughout the rpm range - Radiator is compact and placed high in the chassis for better protection against mud and debris - Ducts located by the cargo bed direct cooling air to the engine - Aluminum cylinders are Electrofusion-plated for light weight, long wear and excellent heat dispersion - Engine can be started in any gear when the rear brake is applied - Electronically controlled Kawasaki Engine Brake Control helps to slow the RSV when traversing steep down hills Transmission/Selectable Four-wheel-drive - CVT features high and low ranges, plus reverse - Combined with the engine power characteristics, provides instantaneous acceleration - Rider can select two- or four-wheel-drive operation by pressing a button located on the dash - Limited-slip front differential reduces steering effort under normal four-wheel drive operation, while Variable Front Differential Control permits rider to distribute torque equally to left and right front wheels for maximum traction via a hand lever - Rear wheels are locked and always turning together for cornering control Chassis - Large-diameter thin-walled tubular steel frame - Only RSV with integrated occupant protection - First with sport performance-focused suspension – low-speed comfort not a main design priority - Wide track provides excellent stability and chassis has 11.2 inches of ground clearance - Long dual front A-arm suspension and narrow frame concept provides 7.5 inches of travel and features adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks - Independent rear suspension provides the best balance of rider comfort and handling at high speeds, and adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks with reservoirs provides 7.25 inches of travel - Chassis offers the right balance of bump absorption while limiting understeer - Able to tackle corners in either a drift or grip style and operate beyond the limits of its rivals Brakes - Dual front 200mm disc brakes with two-piston 27mm calipers and Kawasaki’s sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc rear brake system provide maximum stopping power in all conditions - Front discs are recessed in wheels for protection from debris Tires/Wheels - Good rough terrain performance and obstacle clearance with 26-inch Maxxis tires specially built for the Teryx 750 4x4 - Tread design enables both controlled sliding and forward traction Bodywork/Ergonomics - Bucket seats with retractable three-point seat belts - Foot guards designed into the floor and body - Padded steering wheel positioned low for better control - Body work is made of high-gloss scratch resistant Thermo-Plastic Olefin - Steel floor boards and engine guards for maximum protection - Dual 40W headlights and dual taillights - Cargo bed has 500 lb capacity, tie down hooks in all four corners and cargo net standard TERYX 750 4x4 LE additional features - Digital Meter - Dual retractable cup holders - Hard top - Half-Windshield - Tilting cargo bed with gas assist ------------------------------- SPECIFICATIONS Engine: Liquid-cooled, 90-degree, four-stroke V-twin Valve system: SOHC, four valves per cylinder Displacement: 749cc Starting system: Electric Bore x stroke: 85 x 66mm Compression ratio: 8.8:1 Carburetion: (2) Keihin CVKR-34 Ignition: Digital DC-CDI Transmission: Continuously variable belt-drive transmission with high and low range, plus reverse, and Kawasaki Engine Brake Control Final drive: Selectable four-wheel drive with Variable Front Differential Control, shaft Frame: Large diameter, thin-walled, high-tensile tubular steel Front suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable dual A-arm with gas charged shocks / 7.5 in. Rear suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) with gas charged, reservoir shocks / 7.3 in. Front tires: Maxxis 26x8-12 Rear tires: Maxxis 26x10-12 Front brakes: Dual hydraulic discs with 2-piston calipers Rear brake: Sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc Overall length: 115.7 in. Overall width: 58.3 in. Overall height: 75.4 in. Wheelbase: 75.8 in. Ground clearance: 11.2 in. Lighting: (2) 40W headlights, (2) TK W taillight, TKW stoplight Cargo bed capacity: 500 lbs, 44.1 W x 32.7 L x 12 in. H Towing capacity: 1300 lbs Dry weight: TBD Fuel capacity: 8.0 gal. Instruments: R/N/P/4WD indicators, water temp and oil pressure lamps, digital meter (LE only) Standard Colors: Sunbeam Red, Woodsman Green, REALTREE™ Hardwoods Green® HD
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