Jump to content

1997 Yamaha big bear 350 Shift shaft issue


Recommended Posts

Hey I have a 1997 big bear 350 4x4

I replaced the shifter shaft and the shift arm linkage and the rod when I installed them all I was unaware that you had to line the dot on the shifter shaft with the gap on the linkage arm gap put it all back  together and rode it I can't get it to shift in the right gears  I can move the shift cam by hand and goes in different gears but with the shifter shaft in it riding I can't put it in R or N 

Anyone know how to line up the shifter shaft and the shift cam s


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Ajmboy changed the title to 1997 Yamaha big bear 350 Shift shaft issue


That's the thing I don't know how to line up the shift cam star looking thing with the shifter shaft where the blue arrows are in the pictures  do I put the clip looking thing with blue arrow  on the points ??



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah the thing on the shaft with the blue arrow pointing at it works like a racthet to rotate the shift drum/barrel around to change gears. The forked spring at the top of that piece shown has to be engaged onto a pin in the case, one leg of the spring either side of the pin so it self centers the shift shaft between changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

That other arm that's pointing down in the photo, it engages with the auto clutch disengage mechanism. You need to make sure that is going to engage with the mechanism when you put the side case on.

There's also a small arm with a spring and a roller on it, that roller has to roll against the star shaped washer on the shift drum/barrel. It keeps the drum in position once it's in a gear, but it also pushes the drum around once the gear shift mechanism has moved the drum half way into gear. It ensures that the gear change happens even if you take tour toe off the lever before the gear change is fully accomplished.

Once it is together again, with the side case back on, you need to check the reverse lockout is adjusted correctly.

Edited by Mech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the late reply. 

So I took everything off again both case covers because when I took off the clutch cover I forgot to install the reverse cable bracket to case fixed that and everything is working again 

But now I'm having a stalling problem  riding in 1st and 2nd no problem as soon as I put it in 3rd and give it throttle is bogs down and starts to stall 

Could it be air/ fuel mix need adjustment?

Starting it takes about 20 minutes with holding the start button 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has this started after the bike's been siting for a while getting the repairs done ? Is the fuel fresh ? Could moisture have condensed in the carb ?

Check the plug is clean and has a good blue spark, then undo the drain screw under the carb and make sure fuel keeps coming out at a good rate. Keep flowing fuel till you are sure the carb should be empty and make sure it doesn't stop delivering plenty of fuel. Catch the fuel and check there wasn't water in it. If there was water then clean the tank and test the bike again.

If it's getting plenty of fuel to and right through the carb then it's probably time to take the carb off and give it a good clean.

I usually start by taking the top cover off before taking the carb off the bike, and checking the diaphragm isn't split and that the slide needle hasn't come loose, or adjusting the needle (if the circumstances seem likely that it's in need of adjustment), but if the problem just arose then just that it's not jumping up and down, or dropped down through the slide. Then I'd remove the carb and strip it entirely down and clean it and reassemble it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so little update I been riding it without air box hose to carb off and forget to put air filter back in could this be the stalling problem to much air 

Now new problem went to go start it no power to key no head lights fix a broken wire RED POWER wire fix that and the lights come on but still won't start with button then all of a sudden the lights flicked and heard a clicking noise from starting circuit cut off relay  now I have no lights again  what could the problem be 

put new key switch on and new headlight / start button on still nothing and new starting relay   help lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to be sure the key switch you fitted is the right sort for that model. There are two different switches.

You need to get a manual with a wiring diagram.

Then you need to start tracing the power to the ignition switch, through the switch, and then through either the kill switch or the cdi unit, depending on what wiring that's using. Some models the start signal to the start solenoid goes through the cdi unit before going to the start button, and in other models the power goes to the start button then to the solenoid. And there are the start cut-out relays as well.

The bike needs to be in neutral or have it's brake light on for the starter to work..


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys so when the lights flicker the starting cut off relay clicks as well checked all grounds cleaned them all up and still no starting but push button  CDI was checked its good 

so could the cut off relay be bad ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The relay likely clicks because the power to it is being intermittently disconnected. A bad relay shouldn't make the lights flicker, but a broken wire/bad connection will make the lights flicker and the relay click.

Did you check the switches are making good contacts inside ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I cleaned up some plugs that had dirty and oil in them 

If I play with the light switch the starting relying clicks I walked away for a minute came back head and tail lights where on start button worked turned off the kill switch a few times came back on now I have nothing again what the hell is going on 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You operated a switch..  There's a bad connection/contact somewhere..

You need to be doing what's called a "voltage drop test" on every suspect part and all the wiring. The test is to check for any voltage drop along a wire while it's got power in it and flowing to/at the wires's usual load. Look up voltage drop test and it will be explained and probably demonstrated online.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By John Sinclair
    • By McG75
      Hello I’m new here and was wondering is anyone knew of good replacement part numbers for front struts and rear shocks for this atv? I think I’ve found a new rear shock, that looks like the original but there is no dimensions or anything and was wondering if there are any afterMarket new front struts available. I know it’s a long shot but any help would be appreciated. 
    • By McG75
      1996 4x4 Timberwolf rearend width. Can someone with some knowledge of these machines answer this question for me please. Are all 4x4 timberwolves this narrow in the rearend? These tires are so close the right one actually rubs the muffler.  Thinking about seeing if there are any spacers out there for it. I need at least an inch more clearance. 
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
  • Create New...