Gwbarm

Well! It took a while but i finally pulled the trigger and got the  Subaru Outback. I think it will better suit our needs than the Honda Pilot. I thik the Honda is probably the better vehicle, but its big and bulky and not really what we needed. There were things i didnt like about both vehicles, the pilots new engine which is a powerful V6 has auto shutoff of 3 cylinders when not needed, i dont like that technology, when it goes down its very expeensive to repair, the shifter has also been relocated to the console, electronic switches, looked like a recipe for diasaster, and gas milege was kind of bad, but not really for a vehicle that large.
Subaru gets great gas milege, dont like the CVT transmission and i will have to get used to the boxer engine, i have never owned a Japanese car, im a Jeep Guy all the way, but this is mainly for my wife to haul grankids around in, she babysits everyday while my daughter works, she likes Jeeps also, so we will see how it pans out. Thanks for all the input.

If its newer than 97 it will have a17 digit vin, the 10th character is the year. If its older than 97 it will have a 7 digit vin.

I would look on manualslib.com you can download for free.

Great you found those, they are sometimes hard to track down.

I would agree I’m no pro welder myself and structural integrity would also be my concern plus that takes time also. That’s why I said if was mine I would pull the engine, but you also want it safe for your customers , so I would just take the time and pull the engine,it shouldn’t be too bad .

ATVs, side by sides, but there is a general talk forum, anything goes.

I would also try some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel, I use Berryman Chem Tool you can get it at Wal mart, i really like this stuff, it actually works.

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit,  and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.  

As far as did you get a good deal! There are a lot of things to consider. The number 1 is you got exactly what you wanted and it was in running condition and in good shape. Plus, to find one in this good a shape, the previous owner cared about his machine and kept it running and looking good, and that takes money to replace worn and deteriorated parts especially tires. Sure you might could have found one cheaper but 9 times out of 10 it has been abused neglected probably needs engine, carb and suspension work. So if that was the case you would have to buy the parts and put them on yourself and time is money.  

Im thinking maybe the correct bolt fell out and was replaced, but the finish looks the same, number 14 may be what you are missing
 

Sorry Mech, your post snuck in while i was doing mine, this is from a 95 not sure if its King quad didnt know the model #, and thats the way they were designated.

I would turn it counterclockwise to get it back to where you started, just keep turning it counterclockwise until you feel resistance and then turn it clockwise 1/8 of a turn. You do not have to drain the oil to adjust the clutch. 

Turn the pilot air screw counterclockwise a half-turn at a time, while watching the tachometer. Stop when the idle speed begins to increase, then turn the screw clockwise a quarter-turn. If the idle speed does not increase after more than two full turns, reset the screw to its 2 1/2 turn position; repeat this step and turn the screw clockwise instead of counterclockwise.
 
You don't have to use a tach if you don't have one you can hear when the engine increases speed  it will increase to a point and start to decrease in speed turn it back until its at the highest speed . Then reset the idle speed.

I can get the driveshaft to turn now both front and rear.
 

IMG_3931.mov    
I did notice the gear on backwards, jacking it up helped because I didn't have one gear fall out of place, but I did have to drain the oil, guess I didn't jack it high enough, did not notice the bearing, thanks for spotting that, although I am going to try to locate another cover for it this one is bady cracked, I know I can fix it with JB weld but while in in here im just going to replace it, .Get a new rotor turn the gear around and try to figure out what happened to cause him to open the case, also check the neutral switch, it wasn't working, and its inside there too.
 
It doesnt look damaged.
 

 

Correct, vent/ overflow , don't like it much , if you fill the tank too full fuel will come out this hose, it just kind of hangs down by the frame. kind of annoying when trailering with a full tank

Glad the red tag was still there, this was made by Warn, 424 select, a very expensive add on accessory, hope it still works.
 

I must have been looking at the wrong part that you need, this is what I was looking at, look anything like yours.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Wztepeng-31300-HN5-A11-Compatible-2000-2006-430-58002/dp/B09BDVKDSP/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=honda+foreman+es+shift+motor+gear+replacement&qid=1685332521&sr=8-11

I think while sitting on it to adjust you need to remove the air tube on the left side to access the carb, I tried several different things small ratchet with screw driver bit, shorty screw driver and I think I ended up using a flexible screwdriver, but I can't remember if that was on the sportsman or the scrambler I know it was the 500 engine . 

There should be a fuse holder and a couple of relays close to the wiring in the battery area, you should check to make sure the fuse is good and that power is getting past the fuse, sometimes fuses can get corroded not make contact, even though it looks good.

Intake .004-.008
Exhaust .008-.012
 
   

Finally got back around to the Big Bear, between all the rain and other priorities time has been limited, I keep up three properties so the John Deere has been getting a good workout, got the new Mikuni installed all the hoses routed where they are supposed to go, that took a minute, put in new fuel gauge, the other one wasn't even there , it must have rotted off and fell in the tank, so previous owner removed it. Buttoned up a few more loose ends and started it. I will have to say im very impressed with the new Mikuni glad I found one cheap enough to buy on Ebay. I learned the hard way , but I do believe in OEM carbs, I may scrimp on other aftermarket stuff, but wont on Carbs anymore. Oh, one other thing, when you buy an aftermarket petcock pay attention to the nipple size, even when the add says it fits 2000 Yamaha Big Bear, and don't get one smaller than your carb nipple, ask me how I know.
This video is the first start with the new carb:

IMG_3760.mov    
It takes throttle very well and smoothly without stumbling a tad, which I what I would always get with Aftermarket. This video is after its been running for a while, no smoke, but the engine sounds a little pingy, im going to pull the valve caps to make sure its oiling correctly, but this is my first Yamaha it might be a normal sound for them, what do you guys think.
 

IMG_3762.mov    
 
 
 

I bought my Suzuki Eiger, it was running poorly, I knew that when I bought it, it had an after market carb on it, I just took it off, and replaced it with another aftermarket, it ran much better, this was in August, ran it some not a lot, went to start it a couple of months ago and it started fine, fired right up, idled fine, but when I started to take off it stumbled bucked and really didn't want to take throttle. Im not blaming it on the Carb just yet, I know it has a bad vacuum petcock, it will run for about a minute in the run position and die, so I have been running it in the prime position and it has been doing OK until now. Just for my own piece of mind I bought a used OEM carb off eBay to rebuild and put on it. Ill see how that works out. 

Float is either stuck or has a hole in it and sank, or the needle valve is stuck in open position.

I was just watching a video on that, and Marvel Mystery oil beat Seafood on carbon removal, put into carb while running, another one I like to use is Berryman Chemtool. Never used the Polaris.

Not sure exactly on yours, the manual will be helpful, but on all the kickstarters I have worked on the pinion gear fits onto the crank generally the first 2 teeth go into that gear with the kicker all the way up, there is usually a half moon set of teeth on the pinion, it goes on the first couple of teeth and as you kick down you get to the end of the half moon and the kicker comes back up from the spring, i think that's what you are talking about. I may not have done a very good job of explaining it but you will see when you get the manual.

Sometimes gas can leak past a worn float needle and seat you should replace it. I usually turn my gas off when not running and its going to be sitting for a while. I got used to doing that with my lawn tractors, briggs are notorious for that.