Gwbarm

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It appears that the rubber line is all put together with spring clamps and then there is the crossover line between the two cylinders if yours is crimped on you can cut it and use a spring clamp to reattach depending on how it aattaaches to the cylinders you buy.
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If it is not broken off flush with the case iwould wet it good with PB Blaster let it sit for a while and either grab the stud with a small pipe wrench or vice grips, dont try to gorilla it out when it starts to move go back and forth gently a little at aa time and it will eventually come out.
If it is broken off flush with the case you have to drill a hole and use an ease out but again gently you dont want that to brake off then you really have problems.I dont like ease outs much but sometimes necessary. Another way i sometimes get them out is drill a small hole close to the edge so you can get a punch in there and then hit the punch with a hammer  towards the counterclockwise rotation also keeping it wet with PB Blaster. 

When you rebuilt the engine if you did not mess with the timing chain and sprocket you should still be in time unless it was off initially. You can just reset the valve clearances with the T in the window instead of the F. Not a big deal, but if you set the timing gear on the cam with the F in the window instead of the T you will need to go back in and fix that. On the 500 cam chain does not have to be removed to put in pistons and rings. 
 
 
 

Pulled the coil out to test it getting continuity between power input and ground thats why im blowing fuses, i will get an OEM, not downing aftermarket coils, it could have been my fault not catching the plug wire so close to the exhaust. Get the new coil and go from there hope it didnt damage the CDI. New soloenoid arriving today will get that installed havent decided if i am going to replace the starter yet although i also have one coming today, not OEM, but i can slap it in there until i rebuild the OEM one .

Response from Kenda:
 
Hi there, thank you for reaching out to Kenda!

Both the Bear Claw K299 and Bear Claw EX K573 are great choices, but given your specific needs, here's how they compare:

Bear Claw K299 : link here: https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/atvutv/utility-utv/bearclaw/
 
-Best for general all-terrain use
-Strong traction in mud, loose dirt, and moderate snow
-6-ply rating – durable and puncture-resistant
-Classic, time-tested design with aggressive tread Pros for you:
 
Works well in the woods and on uneven terrain Good for towing due to solid grip and durability Cons for you:
 
Not as smooth on paved surfaces Slightly less grip on steeper inclines compared to the K573 Bear Claw EX K573 : link here: https://powersports.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/atvutv/utility-utv/bearclaw-ex/

-More aggressive tread design for better grip
-Better on hills due to deeper lugs
-6-ply rating – stronger sidewalls, better for towing
-Improved self-cleaning tread pattern for mud and wet conditions

Pros for you:
 
Handles hills and inclines better More stability when towing a loaded trailer Slightly smoother ride on mixed terrain, including pavement Cons for you:
 
Slightly heavier than the K299 Final Recommendation

Since you'll be using your ATV for towing firewood, navigating hills, and riding on both pavement and off-road, the Bear Claw EX K573 is the better choice. It offers more stability, better grip on inclines, and a smoother ride on mixed surfaces. However, if budget is a concern and you're mostly on flatter terrain, the K299 is still a solid option.

We thank you for your questions, and recommend asking a local dealership for your Kenda tire purchases.


 
 

Looking a little closer this part does not go to the Bayou if fits the KLX300, part# 11060 probably just came in the universal gasket kit.
 

The plastic cover that says honda on it pulls off and the bolts are under there but be carefull not the break the tabs holding the plastic in place. The metal plate is also part of the handlebar mounting clamp.

Can-Ams are fairly rare in my area and i have never worked on one, and i have never seen a 250 at all. We dont know all the answers but just wanted to let you know someone is listening. I did a couple of searches and came up with the same part # that you already had, nowhere did i find the size just part #. So you did good to find the size.

Not much way to tell without knowing which lift kit was installed some come with and some dont, i would just measure and try to find them in that size.

Yes it is different, i should have looked it up , i thought they all had vacum slides now. Your cable adjusting screw is the big silver piece closesst to the carb, just make sure the slide is all the way down with no pressure on the throttle.

Thats good, it may have just been sticking a little not moving freely.

Well! It took a while but i finally pulled the trigger and got the  Subaru Outback. I think it will better suit our needs than the Honda Pilot. I thik the Honda is probably the better vehicle, but its big and bulky and not really what we needed. There were things i didnt like about both vehicles, the pilots new engine which is a powerful V6 has auto shutoff of 3 cylinders when not needed, i dont like that technology, when it goes down its very expeensive to repair, the shifter has also been relocated to the console, electronic switches, looked like a recipe for diasaster, and gas milege was kind of bad, but not really for a vehicle that large.
Subaru gets great gas milege, dont like the CVT transmission and i will have to get used to the boxer engine, i have never owned a Japanese car, im a Jeep Guy all the way, but this is mainly for my wife to haul grankids around in, she babysits everyday while my daughter works, she likes Jeeps also, so we will see how it pans out. Thanks for all the input.

If its newer than 97 it will have a17 digit vin, the 10th character is the year. If its older than 97 it will have a 7 digit vin.

I would look on manualslib.com you can download for free.

Great you found those, they are sometimes hard to track down.

I would agree I’m no pro welder myself and structural integrity would also be my concern plus that takes time also. That’s why I said if was mine I would pull the engine, but you also want it safe for your customers , so I would just take the time and pull the engine,it shouldn’t be too bad .

ATVs, side by sides, but there is a general talk forum, anything goes.

I would also try some fuel injector cleaner in the fuel, I use Berryman Chem Tool you can get it at Wal mart, i really like this stuff, it actually works.

It is a drum brake but it has a twin piston caliper, it sounds like the caliper is hanging up, i would pull it off lube it up a bit and see if that helps, the pistons may be sticking also, go ahead and check that out while you have it off, or you could replace it, thats what i did , they are fairly cheap, actually cheaper than the OEM kit,  and i really didnt want to mess around rebuilding it.  

As far as did you get a good deal! There are a lot of things to consider. The number 1 is you got exactly what you wanted and it was in running condition and in good shape. Plus, to find one in this good a shape, the previous owner cared about his machine and kept it running and looking good, and that takes money to replace worn and deteriorated parts especially tires. Sure you might could have found one cheaper but 9 times out of 10 it has been abused neglected probably needs engine, carb and suspension work. So if that was the case you would have to buy the parts and put them on yourself and time is money.  

Im thinking maybe the correct bolt fell out and was replaced, but the finish looks the same, number 14 may be what you are missing
 

Sorry Mech, your post snuck in while i was doing mine, this is from a 95 not sure if its King quad didnt know the model #, and thats the way they were designated.

I would turn it counterclockwise to get it back to where you started, just keep turning it counterclockwise until you feel resistance and then turn it clockwise 1/8 of a turn. You do not have to drain the oil to adjust the clutch. 

Turn the pilot air screw counterclockwise a half-turn at a time, while watching the tachometer. Stop when the idle speed begins to increase, then turn the screw clockwise a quarter-turn. If the idle speed does not increase after more than two full turns, reset the screw to its 2 1/2 turn position; repeat this step and turn the screw clockwise instead of counterclockwise.
 
You don't have to use a tach if you don't have one you can hear when the engine increases speed  it will increase to a point and start to decrease in speed turn it back until its at the highest speed . Then reset the idle speed.

I can get the driveshaft to turn now both front and rear.
 

IMG_3931.mov    
I did notice the gear on backwards, jacking it up helped because I didn't have one gear fall out of place, but I did have to drain the oil, guess I didn't jack it high enough, did not notice the bearing, thanks for spotting that, although I am going to try to locate another cover for it this one is bady cracked, I know I can fix it with JB weld but while in in here im just going to replace it, .Get a new rotor turn the gear around and try to figure out what happened to cause him to open the case, also check the neutral switch, it wasn't working, and its inside there too.
 
It doesnt look damaged.
 

 

Correct, vent/ overflow , don't like it much , if you fill the tank too full fuel will come out this hose, it just kind of hangs down by the frame. kind of annoying when trailering with a full tank