If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community. QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!

Heres my story. Kinda long. I guess I was a late bloomer when it comes to quads. I had never ridden a quad in my life. Rode Dirt Bikes as a kid growing up. Back in Oct of '06 I found a Mustang on craigslist. Took it for a test drive one morning before work. Fast car. 351 Cleveland. I had planned on meeting the guy again after work. For some strange reason thats still to this day beyond me, I stopped in Hillsboro MotoSports on the way home from work. I had 6 Grand on me. There was a left over '05 sitting by the front door. It was on sale for $4999. It was $5499 OTD. I didnt even look at anything else. I knew nothing about quads accept I thought it really looked coool and I had the money in my pocket to buy it. I was sitting on it when the salesman walked up and asked... "Can I help you?" Without hestitation I pulled 60 Ben Franklins outta my front pocket and said "I want this Quad. Load it up in my truck." It was just about dark by the time I drove away from the shop. BTW, I didnt bother to ask my ol lady if I could buy it. LOL. Anyway, I took it by the house and showed her. She was kinda stunned but not mad. We drove over to a friend of mines house and unloaded it. I took it to the field across the street from his house. HOLY CHIT!!!!! I was surprised by the power. I had it for about 2 weeks and took it to Sand Lake. I was there a few hours and rolled it on a banked turn at the top of the bowl right before you get to the one-ways. When it rolled, I flew off and landed on my belly. The quad came bouncing and landed on my back. For a month I couldnt even walk. I was scared of it. I considered trading it for a 250EX. Went back to the shop. The salesman said..."Dude!!! You dont want a 250EX!!! Trust me. Just get used to it" I still wasnt convinced. I put it on craigslist for $4000. Calls were coming in. I had a guy that wanted to come look at it that evening. I decided to take it for one last ride at Browns Camp before I sold it. I was still afraid of it. After about 5 minutes I started feeling comfortable on it again. I decided right then, I loved my Honda 450 and would learn how to ride it instead of selling it. That was late Nov of '06. Work was slow for a Painter in Oregon. My new job everyday? Going to Browns Camp and ridding my Quad. I bought my Girl Friend an '02 Blaster. I rode my 450 for 4-6 hours almost every single day for 3 months. And yes, I know my way around Browns Camp pretty well. LOL. In March I bought her an '06 TRX250EX (Thank God I didnt trade my 450 for one of those) LOL Since then, I have become totally addicted to quads. I love them. Couldnt imagine not owning at least one quad. Luckily I have two. My "07 was $6500 OTD in July of '07. Bought it for my Girlfriend. Traded in her 250 EX. A month later we broke up. So, I wound up with two Honda 450's.

I saw this article on Motosport and thought it was pretty good. Anyone add anything? You might think hopping on-board an ATV and going for a spin is just as easy as taking your regular 4-wheel car for a ride around the block. After all, both have four wheels. How hard could it be? In many respects, you're right. Some adventure riders choose quads over their two-wheeled counterparts of the dirt because there's less chance of crashing and it's easier to learn. ATVs also offer more manageability for younger riders to get acquainted with outdoor riding than a dirt bike. However, beginner riders on ATVs tend to make the same mistakes that result in crashes, roll overs and injury that could be avoided with some instruction and know-how. If you're looking at a fun family outing by renting ATVs or want to get into the sport take advantage of the following points and avoid the same mistakes so many other first time ATV riders make that end their day early or before they barely get started. 1. Nerf Bars Get Nerf bars. These are not soft cushy add-ons that are cousins to the football you use during backyard football games. In many respects, Nerf bars are gigantic foot pegs. Don't bother with traditional foot pegs because you'll constantly slip off and because of the "I feel safe factor" that comes with riding a quad you'll also have a tendency to let your feet drag when riding. That's a recipe for getting one or both of your feet caught in the back tire resulting in serious injury. Nerf bars allow you to stabilize your feet and get maximum control over the ATV Rest your feet easy on Nerf bars 2. Rolling Over Believe it or not, it's fairly easy to roll an ATV over. And you don't want to be on the bottom of that sandwich. The most common way of ending underneath a quad is looping out. That's done by hitting the gas and having little to no experience with the power of an ATV. The front spikes up like an out of control stallion, throws you onto your back like a bucking bronco and then pins you like a UFC Champ. The second way is when you're having a bit too much fun sliding around in mud or other slick conditions, the tires finally do what they're designed to do and grip the ground but the rest of the bike, with you on it, keeps going. Finally, those who think they've found their bearings take aim for a steep slope and try to conquer it only to end up upside down or in their attempt to arch alongside said steep hill, tumble over the side. 3. False Sense of Security This goes somewhat hand-in-hand with the roll over capability that many riders fail to appreciate therefore they also neglect wearing proper protective equipment. Don't think wearing jeans, t-shirt and sneakers is adequate protection when riding a 4-wheeled machine powered by a gas engine that doesn't have seatbelts. You need a helmet, goggles, gloves and riding boots at a minimum. Once you start ripping it on the track or trails add a chest protector, neck brace, knee brace, etc. 4. Throttle Control Everybody wants to skip the kiddie stage and get right into hair-raising speed when it comes to riding ATVs. OK, most everybody. But for those who do so many put on the cloak of invincibility and think a quad is merely a mini car that finally enables them to release all sorts of pent up childhood inhibitions. So they jab their thumb into the throttle with the expectation of a controlled roller coaster ride. Instead, they loop out and end up underneath the quad or manage to stay seated only to careen off course and introduce their 4x4 to a large tree. ATVs normally have a thumb throttle and most have an automatic clutch so the clutch is one less thing to worry about. So go slow and figure out how much "thumb" is too much and get used to the speed and power an ATV delivers before really going for a ride. Oh, one more thing, learn to take your thumb off the throttle! It's not to hard to loop out on an ATV 5. Loading the ATV Never, ever ride an ATV up a ramp into the back of a pick-up. If you want to know why just go to YouTube. If you want to know how to load an ATV check out this fine piece of quality information on How to Load a Motorcycle, Dirt Bike or ATV into a Truck. The bottom line to riding an ATV the first time is treat it like you would anything that comes with a modicum of danger. Careless behavior endangers you and others but with common sense and a willingness to learn you'll enjoy of lifetime of riding quads. For additional information on riding and/or maintaining ATVs see: 10 Quick Safety Tips for ATV Trail Riding Tips for New ATV Owners Choosing the Best ATV for Beginners 10 Things That Alter Your ATV Performance Written By: AndrewT

Hey, look, I'm new but a topic I know a lot about! I'm an ex ignition systems engineer, and I used to work as a test engineer at NGK here in the US. CDI is capacitive discharge ignition. This is a VERY complicated topic, but I seem to be pretty good at analogies. Quick background: an ignition coil is an inductive device, you apply voltage to one side of the coil, and you generate a magnetic field, when that field is collapsed very quickly, the secondary side of the coil will generate voltage that is proportional to the winding ratio on the primary and secondary (12volts in, 40,000volts out). Capacitance is created whenever you have two metal plates within close proximity of one another. For example, an ignition coil in the head (like in a coil on plug engine) creates capacitance because of the close proximity between the coil and the head. Capacitance can be added via special boxes or even some spark plugs (pulstar, if they are still around, but don't use them...) So, what does that mean for spark? Well, capacative discharge occurs very quickly over a very small amount of time (think nanoseconds), while inductive discharge occurs over a longer time, think microseconds. So, analogy time. Think of a coil as a gear reduction with a flywheel on it. The flywheel has a clutch that engages and disengages a water pump. When you apply a 12 RPM input to the gear reduction, you get 40,000RPM on the output, but it takes a while to spin up. So, when you start spinning the input and the flywheel is spinning, this is like the dwell time. Once the flywheel is spun up sufficiently, the clutch engages the water pump, and water starts to flow into a hose. At the end of the hose is a valve that will open at a certain pressure (this pressure changes, and is analogous to the required voltage to breakdown the spark gap). "There is some stretch in the hose, so when the valve opens there is a little bit more flow for a short time, once that's done, the pump keeps pumping until the flywheel runs down." The small stretch in the hose is like the capacitance of a standard ignition system. Once the valve is opened, the flywheel energy pumps out what it can, and then it's done. A CDI system is like adding a big pressure tank to the end of the hose. Once the pressure starts to build, more and more water is stored in the tank. Once the valve opens, a HUGE tremendous amount of water comes out, but for a very short time. Once the tank is done, the flywheel/pump still pumps a little bit out. So, the pressure tank is like capacitive discharge, and the flywheel pump is inductive discharge. So, what's the advantage? Well, the problem with a spark plug is something called quenching. When spark occurs, there is a very small flame kernel that is susceptible to quenching via nearby relatively cool metal, like the plug, the head, etc. Increasing ignitability reduces this quenching effect, which is actually the benefit of fine wire spark plugs. CDI helps this by providing a lot more energy in a very short time. Some CDI systems help even more by allowing more current on the primary side (hence the need for bigger wires). So anyway, that's what I can add, hopefully it helps.

What Ajmboy was referring to was the post. This website has a lot of technical resources available for the users of the site. Its a website and unlike social media, you don't get an instant response. Those who have the resources to share are only here on their spare time so a reply may be a day or two. Plus the way it was posted "I am just here to get a manual" is outright saying "once I get this manual, im gone" I wouldn't be too inclined to help that person either. Then on top of that to post 10 replies with only a number is childish, another reason to not help them either. A forum board is a community. There is already a lot of people who do come here to ask a question about a problem, then someone provides some suggestions to help solve it, and they never post back that it fixed the problem, so we never know if our suggestions worked. We assume it did, because otherwise they would post back that it didn't work. Mike

Can't thank you guys enough for making all this possible! Gave Quadcrazy a shoutout in the video!

That’s because people like you come to get something free and offer nothing in return to the community that gave them something. Next time pay for a manual.

Definitely the mountains for me, getting to the top of a ridge or coming over a rise and seeing a huge open expanse of valleys, nothing better.

Picked up one of these this year to improve our riding and camping. Its a jumping jack trailer which can haul quads or other stuff on the deck, and then opens up into a nice sized tent. We have used it four times so far and really like it. There is even room inside to store gear with the tent down which really saves on packing. The model we have hauls two machines. but they have other larger ones and one size smaller. Mike

Gotta love Facebook Marketplace, and the crackheads that you can buy things from on there... Naturally, I'm like "Hook up the trailer, let's go get this pile of eBay parts!" and hauled as* to this dude's house with 3 crisp Benjamins to wave under his nose. Showed up about 20 minutes early to find him and his buddy hastily reassembling the pile of plastics into a semi-presentable quad, using some real sweet bulk bin galvanized hex bolts from Tractor Supply Racing Co. Looked it over and handed him the three bills in exchange for a transferrable registration from 11 years ago, and a STACK of handwritten bills of sale from the last 11 years, since apparently no one has gotten it functional (for long). Average ownership period ranges from 6 months to 2 years. Fingers crossed, lads! Got it home, and hit it with a healthy dose of bike wash and the pressure washer, more bike wash, a lot of scrubbing, and more pressure washing to get years worth of crud off of it. The entire left side of the crankcase was covered in an eighth inch of caked oil mud, as though there had been a catastrophic loss of oil at some point in the past, because it was nowhere near the drain or fill holes. Totally opposite side. Managed to find the VIN hiding in there and ran it for giggles. PO mentioned that he "had it running at the beginning of the season, but it was 'rough' " and that he had cleaned the carb, but it didn't help much. And now it just plain wouldn't fire at all. Kind of threw his hands up and shrugged. So, after cleaning it up enough to turn wrenches without looking like a Texas oilman, I took off the plastics and started poking around. Found a few fishy spots in the harness where previous attempts at repairs had been shoddily made and hidden with black tape. Sorted those out, drained and filled with fresh oil and a filter, and hooked up a battery. Turned the key, got a green light, hit the starter switch and got a little grunt and squeak out of it, then nada. No light, no nothing. Pulled out the DeOxIt D5 and started pulling apart all the connectors and giving them the business. put everything back together again, turned the key, got green light, and starter cranked! Then nothing again. Started fiddling with the wiring and connections while watching the green light, and saw a flicker when I bumped the 25A fuse holder. Gave it a squeeze, and sure enough, the light came on. Thing was full of powdered remains of spade terminals, so I installed a NOS replacement model from RADIO SHACK that had been swimming around in my toolbox for nigh a decade. Sure of my fix, I tried the starter again, and NOTHING again. More fiddling revealed that the OTHER fuse holder (15A) was the same. Homebrewed another fuse holder from spade connectors and shrink tubing, hooked it all up and everything was good. Now that I could crank it, I poured a couple cups of gas in the tank and pulled the plug to check for spark. Good blue spark, once I cleaned up the theretofore fouled plug and gapped it. Screwed it back in, with a healthy dose of ether, and gave it a crank. Not even a wheeze or a sputter. Off with the carb! So, I think our old friend PO has a drastically different definition of "carb cleaning" than I do. I'm thinking maybe he wiped down the OUTSIDE of the thing, and was shocked that it had little to no result. That white stuff is a combination of powdered aluminum oxide and near-varnish fuel. Has the consistency of slight dried mayonnaise or white library paste, but no pleasant wintergreen aroma to match. A quick perusal of the Amazon bargain bin turned up a carb (BST31SS) and non-vacuum petcock for $25, with a caveat that the carb required minor modifications to fit. Four days and a lot of sandblasting and surface prep on the plastics while I waited, the carb arrived today and I drilled out the ferrules for the choke and throttle cables to accept slip-fit cables instead of thread-ins. Other than that, the only difference was a lack of one vacuum port for the petcock, which I had anticipated and purchased a regular old one with no vac diaphragm in it. Safety first, amirite? Now with definite spark, and reliable fuel delivery, I started cranking and fiddling with the idle and air screws, managed to get it to fire up - almost literally~ There was a LOT of smoke coming from near the exhaust port on the head, thought I had loose header studs for a minute, then realized it was just more of the old oil mud I had missed while cleaning, burning off between the fins on the head and the exhaust heat shield. First fire up - lots of smoke While I was changing the oil, I took the opportunity to pull off the access covers and adjust the clutch and valve lash, so I was feeling OK about running it a little more. Got the idle and mixture set a bit better and decided to test out the transmission and shifting a little. Testing reverse Realized I left the parking brake set, so it stalled out. Oops. Another thing I did while waiting for Brown Suit Santa to bring my carb was to remove the diff lockout pin from the shifting mechanism and I wanted to see if it worked. Here's the quad, up on the lift, minus the LF wheel (due to a seized cylinder I've since replaced) with range set to HIGH, and Differential Lock engaged. Worked like a charm. Had to holler at the dog who was camped out below the rear tire Dog under the tire. Again. I think she has a death wish. Or perhaps aspirations of being a jackstand in the pro-leagues. Testing Diff Lock in High Range Put the wheel cylinder in, (Dorman w38750 for a 1991 Geo Metro/Suzuki Swift was a precise fit and only $10) to replace this crusty POS: put the wheel and hub back together, put seat back on and fired it up. Made sure it would start again after turning it off. Long Live The King All the repairs appear to have been successful all around! I took it out for a quick rip up the street and back, needs a little bigger main jet (it came with a 145 installed, which I swapped out for the 120 OEM spec, but it feels boggy at WOT, so I'm going to experiment a little after I get the airbox back together, but 145 seems like a big jump. I'll try to post an update once I have the plastics all refinished and installed next week. Pretty sure it's going to be yellow, no camo or green bullshit for me thanks Hope you didn't hate my post.

A lot of "what ifs" to go with electric trucks and quads, especially if you're 200 miles in the bush. " Quad charges off the truck".... Great .. But how do you charge the truck if you're out on an extended stay ? Can both be reasonably charged using a small to medium 110 - 220v light plant of about 2 -3,000w ? To me , that quad is an ugly no go. 2wd and chain driven at that doesn't cut it in my book. Nope on the design on that "truck" too. I can see an electric 4x4 truck, but I would also like to see one with a built in gas powered genset to be able to recharge the batteries when way out in the boonies. It wouldn't need to be a fast charge , just one that could recharge it over a day with ability to restore at least 100 miles of its capacity in that time .

Very nice! Looks like some nice options for hunting. I was doing the same thing this weekend at my cabin. Collected the cards from 6 cameras that have been out for 2 weeks. Here's a little bit of what I captured. Near as I can tell I've got 4-5 different bucks to choose from. Also had does (can't shoot them this year), a coyote, raccoons, rabbits, and a grouse on various pics.

So I tried something a little different and had a editor edit my last video! I think it turned out great! let me know what you think in the comment section of the video on youtube! dont forget to like and subscribe!

I was able to get out for some tracking in-between storms ... we have lots of deep powder and on this ride, it was pretty windy ... of course, it usually is on these ridge tops. It was nice & cool too. The day started of at -7F (-21c) and stayed pretty nippy all day long. Hope you enjoy the video !!!

Its all set:

I uploaded the Yamaha service manual for your Big Bear. Covers 2000 & 2001. First time I've done this so I hope it downloads correctly.

Well Michael, thats not going to do anything but piss people off. lol, Just browse the forum and make a few comments, maybe start a post and introduce yourself, let us know what youre working on and how its going.

Agreed, sounds like your like me, old school. Been on fourm boards for years, but over the past few years social media has taken over and many have shut down for lack of use. I still prefer the fourm boards over social media because its organized better, with groups and topics. Social media tends to be like spaghetti of posts and nonsense. I have also seen how people have changed because of social media. They will post a question, then like 2 hours later, post a reply like "What? Nobody has an answer for me?" They don't get it how it works. They want the "instant gratification" of social media verses the fourm boards. Mike

Few bears doing water wheelies! I fell off the bike and boy is the water cold lol!

Here's a "heads up" for everyone searching for owners or service manuals for your quad. While searching for service manuals to help others posting in the forum, I've come across a couple of sites early in each search that claim to offer the service manual needed. When clicking the link for the manual pdf, it opens a download link showing an .exe file. DO NOT CLICK ON ANY DOWNLOAD LINK THAT SHOWS AN EXE FILE TO GET A PDF OF ANY MANUAL ! I am running Windows 10 Pro and it is set to show the full address and type of any file. It also prevents automatic downloads unless I specifically allow them. Those fake manual pdf downloads try to automatically install the file downloader it actually contains rather than a true pdf. Had it actually been able to run automatically, it would have downloaded a load of hurt on my PC. The downloader link was able to install into the temp folder in my Windows but was not able to execute because I did not click to allow it . Afterwards, my A/V program detected the malware in the temp folder and quarantined it for removal. Had my PC not been set to show the complete address and type of file and to not automatically download files I'd have one very compromised computer. Everyone , make sure your anti-virus program is kept up to date with the latest definitions for it. Set your computer to show the complete address and type of file rather than allowing it to auto - hide known Windows file types so a program such as xxx.pdf.exe shows as such and not as just xxx.pdf with the known file type .exe hidden.

Anywhere I can !! relaxation !!

I like to ride in my hometown. It is a small city so i like to travel there with my bike. I prefer to ride slowly because it gives me amazing feelings.

I have front and rear hard storage, so I stock it with some extra water, extra Gal of gas, Winch accessory kit w/ tow and recovery strap, a 1st Aid kit, and compressor.

Good morning from the cowboy State 😁 more cows than people

Its a refrigerator that looks like a cooler but it runs on 12/24 volts. Usually includes a power brick to run it off 120 volts. The one shown here is a small one. It uses a compressor and can even be set as a freezer if needed. This small one is the one I usually keep in the shed on a shelf in the summer to have cold drinks handy when I am working on something. (the shed is like my workshop and where I maintain the quads) Right now I have it powered up because I am going on a trip for a few days and want a few cold ones in the hotel room. These are very power efficient. I have a larger one I take camping and run it off the battery. Uses 3amps when running (at 12 volts) and they are very quiet. I also have a dual-zone one so I can use the small compartment as a freezer for ice packs when we quad ride in the summer to keep the drinks cold during the day.

Lead acid ATV / UTV batteries, whether AGM, SLA or flooded are like car batteries.. They will last years longer if kept on a maintainer when not in use. Letting them sit at less than full charge is the biggest killer of them due to sulfation build up.

I sent you both a message. I think everyone’s point of view and suggestions are valuable. What’s not valuable is the extra banter that goes on from opposing views. All the banter does is increase the post count and discourage people from participating. The topic starter gets to pick the solution from posts made within the topic. That really should be it.

Still kicking.

The only bummer part of where we live as we have such a short Riding season. Our trails open June 16th and close around October 16th, depending on the area. Some stay open till Dec 1st, they close them down for a couple reasons, safety and so they don't get torn to shreds. We do have one area that stays open most if the year that is BLM/Forest Service area. That is an hours drive. It does get to a point that trails are impassable due to snow, but parts of it are usable almost year round. Only problem is temperatures are pretty miserable to be out during the Winter . We do on occasion have stretches of 0 to -30 for weeks at a time. Don't care how you dress not that pleasant to be out.🥶😁. The area is more high desert then transitions into the forest. Great area but heavily used in the summer. This ride was the earliest ride we've ever taken, it was in May.

Got out with the boy the last two weekends to do some riding and set up for hunting on the new property. 42 degrees this am up there! Set up some new tree stands and cameras to see what’s moving around last week. Got up to pull the card from the cams, well surprise surprise there were some big bucks running around! Anyway back to the big city grind for another 5 days and we are out of here again Friday night!

Ok so new flywheel is in and she fired right up. Huge difference, i can get to just about 80% throttle without any backfiring. The carburetor is still in need of tweaking but i think the problem is solved. Unreal that something like this can happen. What baffles me the most is the magnets on the old flywheel are solidly in place but yet they are incorrectly placed??? I tried to pry them off the flywheel with no luck. So strange! Going to get after the carburetor tomorrow and take it for a spin before i put it all back together. Keep ya posted.....

Wow great pics brother. Wtf is that tan sh** ? Looks like a piece of fish... The tank looks nasty. Glad it runs great, very nice work. The only thing I’m going to say about @Ajmboy is the only thing he has crusted is his reputation in this forum. You can’t have pie without crust! And this forum is the pie and he is the crust! And @Admin I love you too! Ride safe.

I think you pulled the wrong black wire. Find the reverse limiter and follow that black wire and disconnect. Here's what you're looking for.

The simple fact that this thread has not spun out of control speaks volumes to the conduct on the forum......I realize this is my first post. I have spent some time on another forum, this thread would have played out differently. I opened this one out of morbid curiosity. Kudos to you guys.

If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/

Don't forget the simplest things first. 1997 Fourtrax300FW was running fine, stopped it to split some firewood, wouldn't start back up, plenty of fuel. I pulled the sparkplug, zero spark. I read a couple forums which made it sound like the most common problem for no spark was the CDI. From a YouTube video, I followed the instructions and used the multi meter Ohm meter to check the resistance on the two coil leads and the reading was about 0.8 as expected for a good coil. Ordered a CDI, replaced it, still no spark, but when I was checking it I noticed I was getting a shock holding onto the plug wire. Used a multi meter to check the spark plug (from instructions on YouTube videos) and there was no continuity on the spark plug. Replaced the spark plug, turned the engine over with the plug grounded to the cylinder head, visible spark. Then reinserted the plug, and it started right up. The moral of the story, if you don't have a spark, you may want to check the plug, or replace it first. That was the cheapest option, and it would have saved me the time of pulling the front cargo carrier and plastic off to get to the CDI, and order and pay for the CDI. I hope this helps someone else down the line.

Your spark may be breaking down as the RPM’S come up. This happened with my Polaris which had a rev limiter on it also. So @06kfx440 may have a point. I was pointed in the direction of a faulty rev limiter on one of my bikes through the forum here. I purchased this spark tester and put it in line with the spark plug. Started and watched the spark break down/fail as I reved the bike. I removed the rev limiter and my problem was solved. Worth a shot and cheap enough to try. It’s also a good tool to have. Having ruled out the fuel system it may be time to start looking in the ignition system. Rev limiter bad pick up coil stator coil problem regulator cdi box 4 of the 5 above listed parts can be tested and the repair manual will explain as far as how and what numbers should be shown on the tester during this process. I attached a pic of the spark tester.

Hi All, I have an 87 lt4wd quadrunner 250 and the choke cable is not there, speedo is frozen, left brake handle is frozen, right brake handle and reservoir is missing but runs good and all gearing works. I'm starting with the choke install. I have the manual downloaded and printed (472pgs) It is hard to see. Any help is welcome, the first thing I did was oil and filter with front diff oil change coming up soon. Thanks RUSTY

I collected two months. Wheel diameter of 1 meter, width of 0.5 meters. All wheel drive.

I think at the end on the day, people feel that with Hillary, we will get more of Obama, that the middle class working people aren't crazy about. Specifically around things like the affordable care act, security, immigration, and position on the world stage, etc. Just to put medical into perspective, I have 2 kids...8 and 2. I work for a company that offers medical and the rates have gone up since Obamacare. When my 8 year old was born, cost us $200 out of pocket. My 2 year old was $6500 out of pocket because of the deductibles now. Regardless, I would pay anything for my children's well being but it puts it in perspective what Obama did to the middle class. Don't get me started on other regular medical fees. Give those who don't work cheaper medical on the backs of those who do is a crappy plan. That's socialism, leveling the playing field. I voted Obama the first time around and then Romney the second after these medical changes went into affect. Also, when are they going to stop punishing people for being rich? Don't they realize that the rich create jobs? Small businesses can't in this environment, they can't survive paying for regulations like medical coverage. It's really bad what's happening. As government gets bigger, corporations have to get bigger as well to survive, which is why you see so much industry consolidation. Also, why are low cost retailers thriving and companies like Amazon killing industries? People's buying habits changed because of what they are paying out. Obama/Hillary, good if you don't want to work and live on the system, bad if you work and have money to pay for the system... 2 basic choices...Hillary/stay the same and Trump/change. That's what it will boil down to for most. Trump may not be the best candidate, but if you want change, he's your best choice. If you like it the way it is, vote Hillary.