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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I just wanted to post a couple of pics of my street legal ZX14 powered 4 wheel steering, 6 wheel drive project, to see what people think.
  2. 2 points
    May the 4th be with you . Happy Independence Day . Have a very Happy, Fun and Safe one . May the 4th be with you . Happy Independence Day . Have a very Happy, Fun and Safe one .
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    If you need Honda, Kaw, Suzuki, Yamaha, Arctic cat, Polaris, try https://www.babbittsonline.com/
  5. 1 point
    For those in the Northeast, this weekend is going to be a hot one. This upcoming weekend is the Snow Shoe Rails to Trails Chicken BBQ event which we attend every year. Last year for our Jumping Jack, I made a "Redneck Air conditioner" but I found sticking the hose in the door way got in the way. This year I improved upon it and found a way to have the cold air blow into the front window without cutting or sewing the marine canvas. I didn't want to compromise the canvas in any way so I came up with a way to hold it in place with magnets. Made strips of magnets with duct tape and used clear vinyl to cover the window and attach the duct coming from the air conditioner. I did replace the hose with one that is a bit longer, found it on Ebay since you can't buy vinyl dryer duct hose anymore. We are ready for the hot weekend of riding and camping, and the hose won't get in our way anymore.
  6. 1 point
    Thank you guys for all the help my son's four wheeler is up and running after putting a neutral safety switch in Polaris trail boss 325 couldn't have done it without you guys
  7. 1 point
    Every one of the rider has his freedom to prepare car as good as he can and to paint it whatever he likes. The only one important thing is to be last stand on the field :). There were many different type of cars European and Russian. Legends like Volga ( yellow one ) and Moskvich 412 Model ( orange one ). Winner of the event was the purple BMW 5-th Series ride on the final against Orange Moskvich 412.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for taking the time to post this, its a testament to the value of our members here and our ATV community!
  9. 1 point
    Have you tried to pull the spark plug out, turn the key on and test for spark by pulling the starter cord? There is or should be a compression relief lever on the right side of the top of the cylinder head. Have you checked the kill switch? If all of that checks out there is a neutral safety switch you would locate and test with a piece of wire. On the left side of the engine where the shifter is, on the top of the motor casing cover in that area you should see two wires coming out of the engine. One is red and one is a light green. Unplug the green wire and put a jumper wire from that green on the harness side to the black (negative) terminal on the battery or any good ground point on the frame. Turn your key on and see what happens.
  10. 1 point
    Thank you for the welcome! Both bikes are on the rough side, the 4x4 had been sat outside for a very long time, lots of surface rust and flaking powder coat, dry rotted tyres etc but it really hasn't been hacked about. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, went through all electrical connections and cleaned them, put a new fuel petcock on the tank, new oil and filter, new spark plug chucked a battery on it and it fired right up. I need to go through the brakes next. I haven't spent much time on the 4x2 as I have only had it a couple of days. It is missing a few key parts like the fuel tank, gear selection pedal, cam cover etc. I will try and post some pics in the next few days. Thanks again!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    The cdi is a sealed until. And it’s that way for a reason. It hates moisture! Any moisture gets in and it’s dead. I learned this a little while back while I was putzing around with my old cdi and went on YouTube to see what anyone has to say. One guy pointed me in the direction of putting the cdi in my oven. It worked believe it or not! Check this out.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome to Quadcrazy! Those are some nice bikes you picked up. What kind of shape are they in ? Post some pics, and any help or questions please ask away. You will love and enjoy this forum. We have a lot of knowledgeable members here.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    At the time I built it, I only had enough hose to make one. The hose does cause the airflow to be restricted and if I were to do as you suggest, I think it would restrict it too much and cause the thermostat to trigger to shut down the compressor. This setup cooled down the inside of the tent well enough last year with sticking the hose inside the doorway so that is all I cared about. By morning,, Michelle had both blankets on so it was plenty cool inside I looked into buying a portable unit instead, but they are bulky and use more power, since we are using a generator, power is everything. This keeps the unit outside and does not take up any space inside the tent. Mike
  16. 1 point
    Check out this website . It will tell you how to decode a VIN The first numbers you show are the manufacturer and last are the specific vehicle identity . https://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number
  17. 1 point
    Xwrench3 Very informative post. Thanks for sharing your experience. Warren
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Yeah Tahj that air inlet tube was just replaced on mine. Previous owner busted it right before where it clamps onto CV housing at some point and had it ghetto rigged up with part of a plastic bottle and lots of duct tape . I ordered a new pipe and installed on it. Just one of the many messes I’ve fixed/replaced on this thing.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Why can’t you remove the old cable from the old cap ? Under the boot should be a metal bent piece than unscrews from the cap? At least that’s what I remember. I’m sure you probably checked it out but for some reason I thought that piece came off of the cap of the carburetor.
  22. 1 point
    Ummmm Frank . It doesn't matter what size the battery is if the voltage is right. The pump will only draw the current it needs to run; no matter what the output current is available from the battery. If the pump itself is leaking it is either a gasket problem or other defect in the pump. Most quads depend on the battery somewhat to stabilize the voltages in the circuit. Without a battery some machines won't run and it is also possible for voltages to jump without the battery inline to help regulate them. Find the cause of the fuel pump leak first and then try running the quad with a battery installed, even if it is just one connected by jumper cables. I'm surprised the early Honda Fourtrax had a fuel pump.. My '91 Fourtrax 300FW uses gravity feed to the carb.
  23. 1 point
    Hi, my names jade 25. Western NC Mom of two young boys. Who wouldn’t have a fourwheeler if I hadn’t picked up learning about what it took to repair a China 110 quad. That lead to a passion of atv repair. 5 months in and I’ve learned quiet a bit and interested in helping and learning how to fix my current Honda 87 250x that’s been through some hands as well as a china 50cc dirt bike that’s been rebuilt on the outside and soon learn how to replace valve stems and piston rings.
  24. 1 point
    Nice job on the bayou. I had a bayou 220 years ago, bought it new at the time. Took it riding a lot and held up everywhere. Here's an old pick of me on it about 15 or 16 years ago...I never had a winch by my buddy bought his at the same time and put one one. It was convenient for when we got stuck!
  25. 1 point
    Is the head of the engine painted or the entire engine painted ? A lot of people paint the head or engine trapping in heat which causes a overheating problem. Check the exhaust that its clear and not packed with shit causing to much back pressure. Lastly is an engine covered in mud or excessive dirt build. These things add up and cause excessive heat along with a hotter plug and even a high octane fuel cause this condition. I would wash the engine down good. If the engine is painted then a pressure wash may be in order.
  26. 1 point
    Sounds like a great time @Ajmboy it seemed like a very busy year for fireworks. My town literally looked like it had a heavy fog condition that’s how much smoke there was in the air. We had stuff going off everywhere! Bbq for sure and plenty of bud light and Coronas for mamma and some good company. We are heading out Monday AM to the tropics for a while. Def post some pics when we get back. Well deserved vaca!
  27. 1 point
    That's great thank you i will look at it shortly You guys are at thank you for all the help
  28. 1 point
    Happy 4th as well. No big plans, probably do some riding on the trails closer to home. Mike
  29. 1 point
    Thanks for the response. After spending some time studying the wiring diagram, I realized that I had missed one of the first things I should have checked. The pair of fuses coming of from the battery. Both fuses were good, but one of the connector wires had broken away from the fuse. I used a jumper wire from the battery side of the fuse to the broken wire and the neutral light came on and it fired right up. Now to find the wire to fuse connector to repair the broken one. Thanks again.
  30. 1 point
    Good call out @Frank Angerano , topic pinned!
  31. 1 point
    So im back at it again. Another headache but different manufacturer. I picked up an 81 ATC 110 for almost nothing. It is nothing to look at but they seem to collect them out this way so I figured I could always get my money back no matter what the condition. The motor wasn't locked up and it had spark. Had not run in years (always the case) I pulled off the carb and cleaned it out the best I could, lots of corrosion. Years of water etc. after pulling it forever got it to fire but would barely idle and super rich off idle. Black smoke fouling out plug immediately. Ordered a (yes you guessed it a Chinese carb as only available) and still super rich, same no change. Choke is open. I lowered the metering rod as low as the adjustment goes. Turned in the a/f screw and bottomed it out still rich. Not flooding, float level good and nothing restricting air flow, air box is not there just open carb. I ended up checking compression and only had about 75psi I checked the valves and the exhaust valve was too tight. Loosened it up and got 110 PSI Now starts easier but still super rich. Black smoke when you rev it up if it revs up cant find any other way to lean it out. Have another carb on the way but not very confident it will fix it. Any weird things to look for? Checked cam timing its good. It has elect. ignition and even tried to advance the ign. timing just to see what would do. So what do the ATC Masters have to say? Pics to follow. Az
  32. 1 point
    Sounds like a fun project. I would put that carb on and see how it goes because it sounds like you can't get you A/F mixture correct. Is it jetted correctly? Is that a new chinese carb you put on and are ordering another one? You can find parts at https://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/hon/50541767f870021c54bef607/1981-atc110-a-parts Service manual:
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    sounds like a good plan to me- ive had trouble with those stripped screw heads too- sometimes heat works- but not very safe to use a blow torch on a carb cause of the gas...
  35. 1 point
    If you search on Google and click images, you'll find some pics of what winch installed on a king quad 300 looks like. Here's some I found:
  36. 1 point
    ok, had some time to mess with this last night but didn't have much luck. Warning, long read to follow: I found a small right angle screwdriver in tool kit I keep in my car to use on fuel/air mix screw on carb. I felt around for the screw to get the screwdriver on it but couldn't find the head of it. I got frustrated and ended up removing the carb to get a better look. The screw is a weird one, or it has cap over it like you mentioned earlier in the thread Frank. Keep in mind this is a new aftermarket carb (pic of what I was seeing below). I didn't know what to do with that, so I robbed a few parts off of the new carb and put on the oem carb and stuck the oem carb on the quad. Once oem carb was installed I tried firing it up and it just cranked but wouldn't fire. After a few tries the starter stayed engaged and kept cranking over so I had to disconnect the battery. This was a new problem I've not encountered before. I installed the original starter relay solenoid to see if that made a difference and it did as the starter only cycled when I hit the starter button like it was supposed to (weird). I tried starting a few more times and still no luck getting it to fire. Next I checked for spark by removing spark plug and touching it to the cylinder head and boy did it have plenty of spark as it shocked the crap out of me. I removed the oem carb and swapped the few parts back to new aftermarket carb and installed it back on the quad and wouldn't you know it, it fired right up and idled as smooth as can be. I rode it up and down the driveway a few times to see how it ran and still same issue with it cutting out as I got on the throttle. So basically back to square one where I started. Any thoughts on what I'm looking at on the aftermarket carb air/fuel mixture? Also attached is a pic of the quad put back together minus the tank and engine side covers.
  37. 1 point
    That’s why you have members here to help us all make educated decisions!
  38. 1 point
    i was thinking YZ as was a yamaha fan back when |I was young loved the IT as rode in mountains mostly yz were for tracks more as had to keep them in power band the it you could jump over logs what ever hit it away you went.So much fun back in the 80 I ud=se to buy and sell to keep my kids in gas and smaller bikes.My youngest was 18 months old when he got his 1st little 60 had them 70 trikes but some asshole stole them from inside our yard.I still cannot believe that give your kid a hot trike some bad dad for sure I hate thieves.Keep up your great posts bro enjoyed by many!!!
  39. 1 point
    Hey Frank, Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try after work.
  40. 1 point
    Here's a video of it as received and up-to actually riding it. You be the judge! (there is a lot of banter, feel free to skip around). Ride portion is the last 4 mins of the video, 12:22 is how it was before the head rebuild... fluttering and stuttering at 1/4 throttle.
  41. 1 point
    New here so I figured id swing in here and say hey... I am quad crazy for sure! My current count is at ten it fluctuates often as old project's get finished traded or sold! I build quads for whoever wants to go fast, but the fun begins when fast isnt enough! I specialize in streetbike quads and built minibikes but I am constantly looking for new stuff! I normally have honda in stock for the factory riders but when we want custom I look for good rollers and put 600cc+ streetbike motors in em! Currently I have 06 polaris predator with a gsxr 600 in it and an 06 yfz450 with an sv650 in it... both are down for upgrades or rebuild. Sv650 about to be rebuilt and gxxrquad got a new exhaust valve job and sprocket set! Hopefully by memorial day 2019 one if not both will be back up! Im looking for hosting sites for pics but am thinking about starting a youtube for people to follow along as I work and build! Anyways if I can be of any assistance please send a message and I will do what I can! I may not know it all but if I can help I will do my best! Happy riding and if you see a blue or black blurr coming your way its probably me on the shop bike Gxxrquad Sent from my SM-T110 using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    If it’s clicking it’s most likely working. Do some testing first. Take a tester and put it on the relay lug that goes to the starter. Hit the start button and see if you get 12 volts. If so then it may be a a starter issue. Like brushes or the starter itself. I will look up the part number and see if I can post it. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262071154868
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Powersports Nation should have all the He parts you need. They have great prices also
  45. 1 point
    Not sure if this has been posted here or not, but if it hasnt then I think it is worthy of a sticky note. 1997 Suzuki Quadrunner LTF-4WD 250 front drum brake wheel cylinders are the same as a common part on Geo Metros and other vehicles. Try the following: DHB-W37850 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder I got mine from Summit Racing for around $7 each versus the Suzuki dealer who wanted $60 each. I appreciate the help everyone has provided me on this forum. Thanks!
  46. 1 point
    Greetings, I am looking for the following 2 manuals, 2000-2005 Yamaha BigBear 400 1998 Yamaha 600 Grizzly Thanks, Todd
  47. 1 point
    Could be very possibe that there are a lot of things out there that we don't know about. That's why we have quads, to go find these things.
  48. 1 point
    There should be a way to shim that, but I would just replace it with a factory belt. Take a look at this video: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiRTKqoXFPE]YouTube - Teryx Belt Deflection Test[/ame]
  49. 1 point
    There can and could be so many people that can dress up as something like that. Its been long enough that people are saying they see these things that it should have come out by now.
  50. 1 point
    2008 KAWASAKI TERYX™ 750 4x4 Features and Benefits At a glance… - First in class with a V-twin - Sport performance with gas-charged rear shocks with reservoirs - 26-inch Maxxis tires - Sealed rear wet brake - Ample 500-pound capacity cargo bed Engine - The 90-degree 749cc V-twin engine is the largest, most powerful engine in its class - Positioned mid-ship for optimum front/rear balance – good for power slides and cornering control - Straight intake tracts and 34mm downdraft carburetors enhance power delivery throughout the rpm range - Radiator is compact and placed high in the chassis for better protection against mud and debris - Ducts located by the cargo bed direct cooling air to the engine - Aluminum cylinders are Electrofusion-plated for light weight, long wear and excellent heat dispersion - Engine can be started in any gear when the rear brake is applied - Electronically controlled Kawasaki Engine Brake Control helps to slow the RSV when traversing steep down hills Transmission/Selectable Four-wheel-drive - CVT features high and low ranges, plus reverse - Combined with the engine power characteristics, provides instantaneous acceleration - Rider can select two- or four-wheel-drive operation by pressing a button located on the dash - Limited-slip front differential reduces steering effort under normal four-wheel drive operation, while Variable Front Differential Control permits rider to distribute torque equally to left and right front wheels for maximum traction via a hand lever - Rear wheels are locked and always turning together for cornering control Chassis - Large-diameter thin-walled tubular steel frame - Only RSV with integrated occupant protection - First with sport performance-focused suspension – low-speed comfort not a main design priority - Wide track provides excellent stability and chassis has 11.2 inches of ground clearance - Long dual front A-arm suspension and narrow frame concept provides 7.5 inches of travel and features adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks - Independent rear suspension provides the best balance of rider comfort and handling at high speeds, and adjustable gas-charged Kayaba shocks with reservoirs provides 7.25 inches of travel - Chassis offers the right balance of bump absorption while limiting understeer - Able to tackle corners in either a drift or grip style and operate beyond the limits of its rivals Brakes - Dual front 200mm disc brakes with two-piston 27mm calipers and Kawasaki’s sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc rear brake system provide maximum stopping power in all conditions - Front discs are recessed in wheels for protection from debris Tires/Wheels - Good rough terrain performance and obstacle clearance with 26-inch Maxxis tires specially built for the Teryx 750 4x4 - Tread design enables both controlled sliding and forward traction Bodywork/Ergonomics - Bucket seats with retractable three-point seat belts - Foot guards designed into the floor and body - Padded steering wheel positioned low for better control - Body work is made of high-gloss scratch resistant Thermo-Plastic Olefin - Steel floor boards and engine guards for maximum protection - Dual 40W headlights and dual taillights - Cargo bed has 500 lb capacity, tie down hooks in all four corners and cargo net standard TERYX 750 4x4 LE additional features - Digital Meter - Dual retractable cup holders - Hard top - Half-Windshield - Tilting cargo bed with gas assist ------------------------------- SPECIFICATIONS Engine: Liquid-cooled, 90-degree, four-stroke V-twin Valve system: SOHC, four valves per cylinder Displacement: 749cc Starting system: Electric Bore x stroke: 85 x 66mm Compression ratio: 8.8:1 Carburetion: (2) Keihin CVKR-34 Ignition: Digital DC-CDI Transmission: Continuously variable belt-drive transmission with high and low range, plus reverse, and Kawasaki Engine Brake Control Final drive: Selectable four-wheel drive with Variable Front Differential Control, shaft Frame: Large diameter, thin-walled, high-tensile tubular steel Front suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable dual A-arm with gas charged shocks / 7.5 in. Rear suspension / wheel travel: Adjustable Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) with gas charged, reservoir shocks / 7.3 in. Front tires: Maxxis 26x8-12 Rear tires: Maxxis 26x10-12 Front brakes: Dual hydraulic discs with 2-piston calipers Rear brake: Sealed, oil-bathed, multi-disc Overall length: 115.7 in. Overall width: 58.3 in. Overall height: 75.4 in. Wheelbase: 75.8 in. Ground clearance: 11.2 in. Lighting: (2) 40W headlights, (2) TK W taillight, TKW stoplight Cargo bed capacity: 500 lbs, 44.1 W x 32.7 L x 12 in. H Towing capacity: 1300 lbs Dry weight: TBD Fuel capacity: 8.0 gal. Instruments: R/N/P/4WD indicators, water temp and oil pressure lamps, digital meter (LE only) Standard Colors: Sunbeam Red, Woodsman Green, REALTREE™ Hardwoods Green® HD
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