Louznmemind

Well thank you,.. 😊

I did manage to get it out but I appreciate the reply brother. I did end up using a tiny drill bit as you mentioned. I drilled the tiny hole in the center then stepped up to the next size bit, the second bit actually pulled it out as I was drilling. 👍

Thank you brother, some things I've found said that and others said not all the way because it would build too much pressure. I tend to overthink, especially when I see conflicting info. Lol It's extremely nice, it actually belongs to an elderly couple I've known most of my life. They bought it new in '07, never been abused and always garage kept. Most likely never seen full throttle until I've been test riding it. Lol

Can someone please tell me the fill point on the drive axle? '07 Grizzly 350, straight rear drive, not independent. Thanks

(Question is at the end if you want to skip my blabbering) I got this unbelievably well taken care of Grizzly 350 in for a carb clean, it belongs to an elderly couple that bought it brand new in '07. Apparently whoever has been doing their oil changes for them never checked the air filter.. Obviously it got debris in the carb, it would still run but only idle with slight choke. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, have new o rings, gaskets, etc. As far as the mixture screw is concerned, I'm assuming I obviously need to remove the plug. I'm mainly a lawn equipment guy, I've worked on slide carbs in the past but never an unmolested one with the plug still intact. I hate to mess with it as the carb had very little debris but I'm sure the o ring needs to be replaced at minimum. Finally, the question: what's the best way of removing the plug? I DO NOT want to mess up this carb..

I appreciate the responses yall, I was to the point I was just gonna give it a shot and see what happened, I feel better about it now. 👍👍

I knew this was a stupid question for most but I was hoping someone could at least help with my admitted ignorance. I've never put a switch on a ground wire before and just want to make sure it won't cause any issues. Anyone????

Ok, I found the easily accessible plug at the light. 3 wires, one is constant for taillight, one is hot when the brake is activated, and obviously the third is ground. I suppose I could just unplug/plug in the connector but I'd like to be able to turn it off/on while on the move and not have the connections exposed to the elements. Pretty sure I'm on the right track, just was hoping for confirmation.

I know this is a stupid question but here I am.. I'm wanting to have the ability to disable my taillight/brake light on my '96 Polaris Xpress at will, it comes on with the key and there are times I don't want it to illuminate. I have basic wiring knowledge and I'd like to put a toggle switch to disable it. I'm not sure of the wiring setup on this thing, can I just use a toggle switch on the ground wire to kill it when I choose? Can someone clarify which wire I need to work with and the easiest way? Excuse my ignorance yall.

Well..... I don't know what I did, or didn't do the first time but after taking it back apart and going through it again, it starts right up without even choking it and purrs like a kitten. Thanks y'all. I have another question as far as coolant, I'll ask but please let me know if I need to start another thread. The coolant reservoir is reading on the Low mark, do I add coolant to the reservoir or in the radiator cap directly? Again, excuse my ignorance but this is my first time on a water cooled Quad...

I appreciate the responses y'all, yes, the plastic thumb screw dial thingy is what y'all mentioned, it is to adjust idle. I wasn't sure what to call it, lol. Anyhow, I didn't see any splits or tears on the intake boot and also double checked the connection was sealed. I even sprayed a quick burst of carb cleaner on the connections and it didn't speed up the engine. When I had it apart I did remove every jet as well as the emulsion tube, the emulsion tube and the pilot jet were both partially clogged and I cleaned everything. As far as the mixture screw, apparently someone has messed with it at some point because the cap has been removed, is there a special tool required to adjust that and what is a good starting point as far as setting it? As far as I know there haven't been any mods to the machine but I will be talking to the owner this evening.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Really good forum.... Still learning in La Vergne, TN

I've got a hole in my air on my 97 Polaris 300 Xpress approximately 1.75" x .75".. I have searched the Ole internet and found a ton of conflicting answers as far as how to seal it properly. It is directly next to the carb intake port and there is a ton of suction. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

Ok, the parts fiche for my machine calls for the 520 o ring, 86 link which is the chain that was on it so I'm good on that. As far as sprockets,, it calls for 12t/36t but this machine has 12t/38t sprockets. What happens if I go back to the 36t rear sprocket? I have tried googling the answer only to confuse myself, unless I'm backwards, the extra 2 teeth on the rear sprockets helps on low end ??