Louznmemind

Well thank you,.. 😊

I did manage to get it out but I appreciate the reply brother. I did end up using a tiny drill bit as you mentioned. I drilled the tiny hole in the center then stepped up to the next size bit, the second bit actually pulled it out as I was drilling. 👍

Thank you brother, some things I've found said that and others said not all the way because it would build too much pressure. I tend to overthink, especially when I see conflicting info. Lol It's extremely nice, it actually belongs to an elderly couple I've known most of my life. They bought it new in '07, never been abused and always garage kept. Most likely never seen full throttle until I've been test riding it. Lol

Can someone please tell me the fill point on the drive axle? '07 Grizzly 350, straight rear drive, not independent. Thanks

(Question is at the end if you want to skip my blabbering) I got this unbelievably well taken care of Grizzly 350 in for a carb clean, it belongs to an elderly couple that bought it brand new in '07. Apparently whoever has been doing their oil changes for them never checked the air filter.. Obviously it got debris in the carb, it would still run but only idle with slight choke. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, have new o rings, gaskets, etc. As far as the mixture screw is concerned, I'm assuming I obviously need to remove the plug. I'm mainly a lawn equipment guy, I've worked on slide carbs in the past but never an unmolested one with the plug still intact. I hate to mess with it as the carb had very little debris but I'm sure the o ring needs to be replaced at minimum. Finally, the question: what's the best way of removing the plug? I DO NOT want to mess up this carb..

I appreciate the responses yall, I was to the point I was just gonna give it a shot and see what happened, I feel better about it now. 👍👍

I knew this was a stupid question for most but I was hoping someone could at least help with my admitted ignorance. I've never put a switch on a ground wire before and just want to make sure it won't cause any issues. Anyone????

Ok, I found the easily accessible plug at the light. 3 wires, one is constant for taillight, one is hot when the brake is activated, and obviously the third is ground. I suppose I could just unplug/plug in the connector but I'd like to be able to turn it off/on while on the move and not have the connections exposed to the elements. Pretty sure I'm on the right track, just was hoping for confirmation.

I know this is a stupid question but here I am.. I'm wanting to have the ability to disable my taillight/brake light on my '96 Polaris Xpress at will, it comes on with the key and there are times I don't want it to illuminate. I have basic wiring knowledge and I'd like to put a toggle switch to disable it. I'm not sure of the wiring setup on this thing, can I just use a toggle switch on the ground wire to kill it when I choose? Can someone clarify which wire I need to work with and the easiest way? Excuse my ignorance yall.

Well..... I don't know what I did, or didn't do the first time but after taking it back apart and going through it again, it starts right up without even choking it and purrs like a kitten. Thanks y'all. I have another question as far as coolant, I'll ask but please let me know if I need to start another thread. The coolant reservoir is reading on the Low mark, do I add coolant to the reservoir or in the radiator cap directly? Again, excuse my ignorance but this is my first time on a water cooled Quad...

I appreciate the responses y'all, yes, the plastic thumb screw dial thingy is what y'all mentioned, it is to adjust idle. I wasn't sure what to call it, lol. Anyhow, I didn't see any splits or tears on the intake boot and also double checked the connection was sealed. I even sprayed a quick burst of carb cleaner on the connections and it didn't speed up the engine. When I had it apart I did remove every jet as well as the emulsion tube, the emulsion tube and the pilot jet were both partially clogged and I cleaned everything. As far as the mixture screw, apparently someone has messed with it at some point because the cap has been removed, is there a special tool required to adjust that and what is a good starting point as far as setting it? As far as I know there haven't been any mods to the machine but I will be talking to the owner this evening.

Howdy y'all, I'm trying to fix a neighbors 2015 Brute Force 300. Came in with hard to start and won't idle except on choke issue. I pulled the carb and found the pilot jet as well as the emulsion tube partially clogged. Cleaned up everything, put it back together, still having issues... It will start right up on choke and will also start off choke if you give it just a touch of throttle but it absolutely will not idle unless it's choked just a touch. Also, excuse my ignorance but I'm assuming the "dial" thingy attached to the carb that turns in and out is for setting idle??

Really good forum.... Still learning in La Vergne, TN

I've got a hole in my air on my 97 Polaris 300 Xpress approximately 1.75" x .75".. I have searched the Ole internet and found a ton of conflicting answers as far as how to seal it properly. It is directly next to the carb intake port and there is a ton of suction. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...

Ok, the parts fiche for my machine calls for the 520 o ring, 86 link which is the chain that was on it so I'm good on that. As far as sprockets,, it calls for 12t/36t but this machine has 12t/38t sprockets. What happens if I go back to the 36t rear sprocket? I have tried googling the answer only to confuse myself, unless I'm backwards, the extra 2 teeth on the rear sprockets helps on low end ??

Yessir, it helps a lot. Thank you.. Just took the old chain off and found a missing tooth on the front sprocket so it looks like I'm going to go ahead and replace both sprockets as well.

The OEM o-ring chain for my '97 Polaris Xpress 300 is $130+ while other brands run from $50 up to $80 with varying tensile strengths from 5000 to 8700. I would assume a higher tensile strength would be better but I don't know the tensile strength rating on the OEM chain. I usually always try to run OEM on everything but if I can save a little money it would be nice, if I'm looking it up correctly it takes the chain listed below but I have no idea what the ORD4 means... CHAIN-520 ORD4,O-RING,86 PTCH 3221193-086

Thank you sir, that's great information. I think I'm at the point of having to diagnose another problem I'm having with this carb but I'm gonna probably overthink it first before posting it to try to figure it out in my head..

Lol.. I'm definitely not counting my chickens yet but it's doing very well at the moment. Still have a list of things to do to it otherwise but it's running and idling very well. I finally got to ride it for the first time without it bogging or quitting. Credit goes to this forum and those that replied, it was the service manual download that finally set everything in. I've certainly learned a lot but have much more to learn. The flooding issue, which has tested me for an unacceptable amount of time is solved though. I'm sure I'll be making separate posts with questions on other topics but maybe this thread will help someone like me someday.

This was a double post so I edited it out, I don't know how to remove it. Sorry

Well y'all, I feel like a complete idiot. I had the choke all out of whack and that was my issue the entire time. I didn't realize the choke had a half setting and thought that was full choke, Long story short, it starts right up, idles good, and has about 60% less smoke from the exhaust. I ordered myself a dunce hat, it should be here tomorrow..

Thanks Mech, I just went ahead and ordered a few OEM ones for the time being. Once I see exactly what they are maybe I can direct match them if the need ever arises. I figure since the old one came out in pieces it would be hard to match anyhow. I may as well get what it calls for after all I've put myself through, lol. I'm not counting my chickens until I get it back together but it makes sense to me now. I will definitely do the tilt test. Big thanks to everyone, I'll update when I get it back together. Fingers crossed !!

After this info as well as the info in the post Imade above this one, I took the carb back off this morning to compare the "packing" to the washer. It couldn't be more obvious, the hole that the needle seat screws into has a small groove inside that sits slightly lower than the outer ridge. The washer sits on the outer ridge where as the packing should sit down inside on the groove. You can see the what I'm referring to in the pic. I'm 95% sure that is my issue. I feel like an idiot for not noticing this sooner. Now I have to order a few so I have extras and wait 4 or 5 days for it. It seems it's not a typical "o ring" because even the ones that small seem thicker unless someone knows something else I don't..

The parts fiche for the Express 300 shows 2 different carbs, one shows a needle valve washer (part #3130047) and the other shows what they're calling a needle valve packing (part # 3130017) Considering mine originally did not have the washer, I can only assume it takes the latter. I'm going to have to order one and wait forever for it but I'm hoping and praying that is my issue.

Honestly the way you described it, I'm not positive. I do know the "floats" float with fuel in the bowl but are they actually raising the needle assembly when it's put together, again I can't say for sure. I will check with the method you described. With all of y'alls responses I definitely feel like I'm narrowing things down. Much appreciated to you all..