Parham

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My quad will not start when temperature is below 40 F.  Starts and runs great in warmer temperatures.  My choke doesn't seem to be working...should the plunger be "IN" (down) or "out" (up) to actually "Choke"?  Not the little choke lever...the actual plunger in the carb?

Are you sure it is actually in neutral?  Try rocking it back and forth while clicking down on the shifter.

21 minutes ago, Mech said:

No that's not right Parham..  Not for these bike starters.. They aren't the pre-engaged/solenoid-engaged sort that cars have.

If it was working for a while when you first put it back in Cheeta then it's most likely that the ratcheting mechanism inside the cases has played up. There's a ratchet called a "sprag clutch" that rides on the back of the flywheel in the side case and it allows the starter to turn the engine over but once the engine is running it just slips and doesn't turn the starter. If you take the starter out and partly strip it so you have the commutator/shaft and the end housing thatbolts to the engine, you can bolt those two parts in and test it by turning the shaft by hand. It should turn freely one way but the other way it should try to turn the engine.

Thanks Mech!  I knew we would get at the RIGHT answer...even at the expense of my ignorance! 🙂

Yep, solenoid is not engaging...the starter actually has two functions built into it.  A solenoid moves the starter gear forward to engage with the engine as the starter motor is spinning.  That same solenoid retracts the starter gear when you release the switch so that the engine does not continue to spin the starter.  Take it back off and figure out what you did to make the solenoid not work...

It will still run...lights will not work unless it is in that position.

My 250 is 5 clicks DOWN is neutral...green light should come on.  Each click "up" is the next gear.  When riding, release the throttle and shift to the next gear.  Gear up for higher speed/less torque...gear down for more torque (climbing)/less speed.

Rotating clockwise...OFF, ON, LIGHTS

Works for me EVERY time!🙃

Now that it's all better, I can tell you...

My initial thought at "won't turn over" was GO FASTER AND TURN THE HANDLEBARS SHARPLY

Are you sure it is in neutral?  With the key "on", click down on the shifter until the green neutral light comes on.

On 5/9/2018 at 11:34 PM, erthnet said:

Oh, and a straight compression test shows ~148PSI...well within spec.

 

Hmm, good catch on the airflow restriction possibility. I've tended to get impatient when warming it up in-place, so I'll rev the throttle a few times, and/or run it at about half-throttle for 5-10 seconds at a time. When I was testing it while riding around, the smoking did tend to correlate with around the same time I'd be testing into the upper-gears (e.g. riding a little faster). However, my most recent test still resulted in very light white/blue exhaust after simply idling it for 10-15 minutes (didn't touch the throttle at all).

I have a brand new high-flow K&N SU-2588 air filter on there; not supposed to be restricting. Hmm...time to start looking closer at the crankcase vent.

Where would I find this crankcase vent? I have a similar problem

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I was NOT able to get it to smoke by manipulating the throttle as described.  This is the result after a short ride.  Also, when I remove the filler cap with it idling, there is enough pressure to lift the cap at the last thread...no hissing or pressure buildup.  With the cap OFF, engine speed slows slightly and exhaust comes out the filler cap just like the exhaust pipe.  The breather filter is saturated with oil and there is oil standing in the housing.  Sound like it needs rings?

My 1998 Suzuki Quadrunner starts well and idles steady with no smoke...until ridden.  Here are SEVEN short videos showing the problem.  Please watch in sequence and help me diagnose the problem and develop next steps to repair it.  Videos may be in following posts.  Thanks, in advance, for your words of wisdom.

Two thoughts...and I'm not familiar with your quad AT ALL.

Check your fuel shutoff (petcock).  If it has the auto shutoff valve with a vacuum connection, start there.  The vacuum line or the diaphragm in the valve could have a leak.

Oil in the air filter housing could also indicate a vacuum issue.

Again, just guessing...I am confident the experts on here will get it sorted out...

This quad was a hot mess two weeks ago when I got it. I've been tinkering on it and have it running pretty good. It didn't have a pull start.  I just got one and installed it today.  Here's a little video of my first try at using it.  Hope it's worthy of a "onya" from Mech! 🙂

Mech..I'm betting the positions on the petcock, based on the symbols, are up is "normal" (taller standpipe), down is "reserve" (shorter standpipe), and horizontal is "off". That "hose opening upwards" is not connected to the carb.  It disappears into the instrument panel and I can blow through it.  I think it's what was connected to the original petcock valve.

Mech...I knew you would try to help!  Thank you!  Here are some pics...I do not have the vacuum petcock.  Looks like someone might have replaced it already.  There is a short piece of hose on the carb that is plugged.  I assume (you know the acronym I bet...) that is where the petcock was connected.  There is also a piece of hose, disconnected, that disappears under the dashboard.  Probably the original petcock vacuum hose.  What are the positions on the petcock shown?

I just bought this a couple of weeks ago.  The oil sightglass was FULL. When I opened the fill plug, oil/gasoline LITERALLY gushed out and flowed for several seconds...FROM THE FILL PLUG!  I drained it, changed the filter (no metal bits), and refilled with new oil.  Opened up the carb and cleaned the float needle.  Blew into the fuel inlet while manipulating the float and it seems to work.  Buttoned everything back up and it runs good.  Now my question...was the fuel getting into the engine because of a stuck float needle or is there something else wrong?

Operator error! With the rearend raised. it shifted through all gears while rotating the wheels! Thanks Mech!  Now I just need to learn how to ride it! 🙂

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

Inside the gearbox there is a ratcheting mechanism that notches around to select each consecutive gear. If that works in first and second then that should work in the higher gears too. There is one exception though, and that's why I asked you how the lever feels, how far it's traveling when it won't engage third. You haven't told me that yet.

 

As soon as I get the front wheels back on so I can try the rocking thing, I'll get back to you.  Right now, stationary with engine off, 1st and 2nd make a distinct "click" when shifting.  Further "pulls"/toe-taps on the shifter feel like shorter travel against a "mushy" stop...if that makes sense.  No matter how many time I try shifting "up", two clicks down takes me back to neutral.  When I have more info about "rocking" or even riding results, I'll post again.  Thanks again for your help!

I have tinkered on a Chinese GY6 150cc.  It stalls unless the idle is set high.

Never ridden two wheeler. Had a1983 Honda 3-wheeler for many years...similar "clutchless" shift.  I just got this one last week for cheap.  Trying to figure out the actual condition.  I rode it just a couple of times before starting work on it.  Crankcase was full of fuel...got that sorted out and cleaned the carb. Right now it's jacked up waiting on brake parts...cylinders blown in both wheels, right side didn't even have shoes!  Not worn out or broken...not even THERE!  While waiting, I thought I would try to figure out the shift issue.  Just for background, I'm 65 years old and road submarines for twenty years.  Former nuclear engineer...new to 4-wheeler maintenance 🙂

I certainly appreciate your help!