sebringwarrior

Mornin!

No, I would not sell my Warrior! I bored it 40 over, put a flat top piston and ported and polished it. It ran snappy as hell! What happend was the Valve lash adjustment nut came off and lobed the cam and rockers! i was curious being that I am changing the cam anyway, if the stage 1 would compliment my set up and give me a longer duration of the power curve itself, while also giving me more torque at the top of the power curve without having to change the Valve springs and crank?

Does anyone have an opinion on the performance of a stage 1 hotcam for a Yamaha Warrio?

It is bored .40 over with a flat top piston and a port and polish. Do you think a Stage one cam will compliment the work done already without having to change the crank and valve springs?

Can anyone please tell me how to pull out the valve lifter pin in the head of a Warrior 350? Thanx...

Minor changes in 90 and. 1987-2006 is 20 years! They just changed a few things in 05 and 06

Agreed! And.....even with no valve compression the Warrior ran fine until you goosed it. I can't wait to ride it after the new valve job!!! Warrriorr! Come Out And Playyyyeee!

No worries. It's all in good fun. I have had all types of ATV's and the Warrior has been the most all around reliable, versatile, comfortable, fast and easy to fix ATV that I have ever had. I had one back in 89 when it was the fastest ATV money could buy and all these years later I have another one and love it. It's cheap and easy to fix and because of thier production run, parts are everywhere!

I live on a famous mudhole in Florida "Northern" Sebring, FL and we run ATV's all the time. The Warrior really does eat those new 400ex's up, and nothing short of a 450r or a Predator 525 can hang with it in the scrub trails. And no mater how I beat on it, it has never left me stuck out in the woods!

That's what I call a great ATV. Go Team Yamaha!

Right! Recognize!

You guys are real funny. Fact is that I will bet that you can't name another single ATV that has been reproduced for over 20 years without any changes. They kept makin them cuz they work!

The Valve leaked cuz the beast vibrated a carburetor to bits and a chunk of metal got sucked into the intake boogerin up the valve. Considering what it went through the damage was rather minor.

That old warrior beefed up the way she is spanks them 400 ex's like they are Tonka toys and then takes me Huntin all night and drags 350lbs hogs back from the woods like pullin one of them raptors around! Very easily! Hahahaha

Thanx for all the input. I pulled the head today and found that the intake valve was leaking like a civ and wasn't seating. I took it to my Machinist this morning!

And when I say "rounded the cam lobe" I mean wore it down so the valve doesn't open as much as it should and opens and closes too quickly. It loses duration.

I would have to agree with you! I don't think it's the porting cuz it tachs up way faaster than used to just like a could porting will do and it was doing it before the port and polish even with the fuel vapor backlash deal. I am goin to adjust the valves again first, if that don't work I will pull the head and go through it. Thanx alot!

I ported it and it is real clean and smooth. I built racing motors for Yamaha Marine. (Two Strokes No Valves) I don't see how the crank case breather could be clogged but I will check it. My buddy is a Mecanical Engineer and he is saying "Valve adjustment or bent valve or valve spring"

I thought I rounded out the cam but he says it wouldn't even run. It is some kind of Valve timing issue cuz the fuel that the carb is throwing just aint goin into the chamber and is spittin fuel vapor out of the air intake side of the carb. So instead of having all suction, it is spitting back.

Hmmm??? I don't see how that can cause back pressure out of the carburetor, but I will check that out, Thanks. I am leaning toward a bent valve or tired valve springs becuase the cylinder just isnt taking all the fuel/air that the carb is throwing at it and it should cuz the exhaust chamber has a major port and polish and the thing tachs up like crazy?! This is frustrating!!!!

It has a fresh set of rings and jug bored to match piston. One mechanic suggested loosening the valve adjustment to close intake valve longer??? It doesn't burn any oil and the plug burns with great carbon build up. So I don't think it could be rings, but I am open to any suggestions. You got anything else? Thanks!

I have a 350 warrior that is experiencing fuel/air vapor blowback out of the air intake side of the carburetor followed by back fireing, powerloss and flames shooting out the back of the carb. Does anyone know what could be causing this???

I did, infact, have the head serviced when I had the motor rebuilt. i was hoping that that wsn't the problem, but I have to concur with your analysis. thank you very much.

I rebuilt my 2003 Warrior 350. It ran perfectly for about 20 hours and then started back firing just a bit but causes the Intake Manifold to split at where the rubber meets the aluminum. I rebuilt the carb. I readjusted the air fuel mixture screw. I rechecked the valve lash. I even tried a high flow open air box. The spark plug looks healthy and proper. This is the third intake I have gone through in as many weeks! A mechanic mentioned that it could be the Pulsar acting up? Can the Pulsar cause that? Has anyone heard of a warrior splitting intakes like that? Other than that, the ATV runs like a beast! Any help would be grealty appreciated!!!