Eric C

Yep, I just find it odd that 2 different products from 2 different sellers have the wrong connectors on them. Oh, and my second aftermarket CDI I bought from a different seller also has the wrong connector.. The 2 aftermarket CDI's are a little bit different in the wire length and color is a little off to them but the connectors are still wrong. I really don't understand why no one else has this issue, because people buy aftermarket CDIs all the time with these machines. Needless to say the bike runs now, I finally rode it for the first time at 10pm last night since i bought it broken. (I was just told it needed stator and starter hence the beginning of my whole ordeal) It was still well worth the effort of fixing it.

Well guys, I found out the issue! I took about 2 hours of checking the ground and every single wire in the harness for continuity or breaks in the connectors. I realized the CDI was getting power on its own side through its own connector and the ground continuity on the CDI side was good. Once I checked that I looked at the pulsar once again. When I tested it before for the 200 Microvolts pulsing I was checking it on the pulsar connector but never checked it on the connector that plugs into the CDI. Well there you have it, I wasn’t getting any pulse readings while cranking when checking this. So here we go, let’s take a closer look: I read somewhere on the internets that people who bought an aftermarket pulsar had to switch the wires, well if you see my first post I tried that, but my problem was different. The connector on the pulsar had the wires coming in at the top and not the bottom where the push tab is See my pulsar pic – I am holding the aftermarket pulsar with wires the absent but are supposed to be at the top, on the right is the harness connector expecting wires on the bottom. WTF.. I ejected the wires from the connector and connected directly and cranked, FINALLY PULSE at coil!!! At this point I was ecstatic that I finally found the culprit!! Luckily I didn’t throw away the old connector from the pulsar and injected the wires on that instead. But wait there’s more! Upon all of the troubleshooting I was testing it with original CDI, I had the new CDI I mounted on the bike, so I was well lets just use the new one since I got it. – NOPE! Same issue with CDI, The freaking connectors are backwards on these damn aftermarket parts! My second picture has the aftermarket CDI (which is kind of broken with one of the wires now) and the Original CDI as you can see the connectors are different. (The tab on the original is at the top but you cant see it in the picture) So if anyone has these issues and have bought aftermarket, which lets face it - 80% off of genuine parts on these things! Check your connectors!

Thanks for the response, Unless I am flawed in my thinking, I still would believe my ignition switch and kill switch would be in good working order only because I have the solid voltage with key ON at positive side of ignition coil. I have attached my diagram for my bike.. My yellow red/wire would not be charged if it wasn't for my kill switch, and my kill switch wouldn't be charged if it wasn't for ignition correct? electrical.pdf

Hi, so I cleaned it the best I can with contact cleaner, still no go. If i unplugged the rectifier and tried cranking i should still get spark correct? I assumed if the engine was turning over I wouldn't have an issue with kill switch? One thing I noticed is if i hook up my meter to pulse side of coil and put one probe on positive of battery I get about 1.5 volts cranking. Yet my test light doesn't work when I do this. I am testing using an Actron electric meter so Its happening to fast to see if it pulses. Now I am wondering if I should forget the pulse test and buy a new coil and start testing at spark plug.

I have looked at every thread I feel like, but with no resolution. Its always the same with a no spark issue: Replaced CDI, Replaced Pickup Coil (Pulsar) Good continuity from CDI to green white wire at ignition coil. No Pulse at ignition coil on the green white wire. (testing with test light on Pos of battery.) Good 12+ V on the hot side of ignition coil. I swapped the wires around on the Pulsar. The grounds seem to be good for the blk/y wires throughout bike. Brand new battery. Brand new stator and Pulsar Tried 2 new CDIs Brand new rectifier I get about 300 Micro A/C volts across the two wires on Pulsar when cranking. I am currently cleaning the connections on the rectifier because they were burnt. I am not even sure if it makes a difference because I am told that doesn't produce spark anyway and is only for charging system. The fly wheel looks OK, is the pulsar supposed to be connected in the direction with the metal "Button" facing towards the flywheel? My bike is a 1995 bayou 300, but I seem to come across same issues on web but no resolution on these things.