Scott M

Hi all. I've had a 1994 350 Warrior for 15 years or so, love it but, I'm wanting it to be a 4x4. With my limited knowledge I've come up with maybe a 2005ish wolverine 450 4x4.  I really need advise on what to look for though!

I'm liking the prices on the early 2000s. The biggest concern is it fitting it my truck. I have a 2016 Colorado crew cab (5 foot bed). I'm not worried about length at all just width of the front wheels I think I guess...

I think I heard that the Kodiak is the same as the Wolverine but it has a front locker??? I'm not overlooking other brands, I just searched around and came up with these.

What do you guys think? What would you get for under about $5 grand, 4x4, that is relatively light weight and will fit in my pickup? 

Does this quad have a source coil? It is much like the pickup but a little bigger. On the 350 Warriors this is a very big problem. Engine oil heat kills these coils. The best way to get this coil is just buy the whole stator. 

Your showing voltage says the pickup is working. I'm starting to wonder if you are actually testing the source coil? Have you tried reversing the polarity just to see if it sparks? Does it have 2 coils there? Or just one? If it has two then one is the source and one is the pickup. 

On my warrior the rear spring is adjustable. I can't tell from the pick but maybe it's not adjusted up enough. Could be the old spring is bad too. Check adjustment first.

12 minutes ago, cameron walton said:

Choke does not really seem to help even though I have confirmed it has a clean passage from the air intake thru the carb when engaged. regarding the pilot jet, it is brand new, i can see light thru the holes and squirt carb cleaner thru them. Do you still think wire is needed? To check the flange I sprayed starting fluid on the intake tube from end to end and didn't see a increase of engine. 

Yes, remove the mix screw, pilot and go crazy, make sure with a wire all passages are completely clear. Check very close that the ones going into the throttle body are clear too. They are very very small. They will be inside the TB on the bottom, close to the slide or plate, usually like two or three little holes. You know? 

Are you positive the new pilot is the correct size?

6 minutes ago, MarkinAR said:

I have a couple inches of wire from some old car amp wire in my cleaning kit.  Strip it back a bit and use a single strand to clean the pilot jet.  My torch tips aren't small enough to clean the pilot. Best $4 i've spent at harbor freight otherwise!

Oh yes, I've done this too. The smaller ones require this! Forgot about that one.

Oh, also, if you look through the jet if the hole doesn't look round, it's not clean!

1 hour ago, cameron walton said:

Hi Scott, I can start it with the pull start and throttle half engaged, I can keep it running with throttle, I can drive it like this and it seems fine. After cleaning/rebuilding the carb twice still cannot get the thing to idle. It does appear after more research the engine was replaced with a 1999 timberwolf engine, intake and carb. I am waiting on a 12mm adapter to test compression maybe these is and issue? This is definitely a project that I was thinking was easier than it is. I bought the quad for $500 and the guy said clean the carb, replace the battery and change the oil. He used a truck to hot wire it to show me that it ran. 

Ok, I'm betting the spark is ok. Compression could be a problem sure. I would really concentrate on fuel though. 

Does the choke help at all? If so it almost has to be fuel, specifically carb. 

 First make sure there are no vacuum leaks, like the flange to the intake. 

I'm going to guess the idle circuit is plugged. It gets it's fuel through the pilot jet. Remove the jet and use carb cleaner, compressed air, small wire, ect. to unplug the port from the pilot to the throttle body, mix screw to jet, mix screw to throttle body, you get the idea. This is so very common is almost has to be the problem. 

Sometimes you must use a small piece of wire to clean it, it will gunk up then crystalise so carb cleaner alone will not work. I have a set of welding torch tip cleaners for this stuff. 

Let us know how it goes.

So, the only problem is it won't idle? Correct? Does it run good above idle? 

@cameron walton

My Warrior manual says:  Source coil 270-330 ohms at 70 deg.

Pickup coil 171-209 ohms

I would imagine yours would be very close to that. You just need to figure out the wiring. Both of those will go to the CDI box so 4 wires total, just try them and see if you can get about 200 ohms on two sets of wires.  Or pull the cover. 

10 minutes ago, cameron walton said:

Thanks Scott, I can see light thru the pilot jet and squirt card cleaner thru it with no issue. I'll check the stator.

Does anyone have the specs for testing the stator, CDI, coil etc in this circuit? Or the service manual

search around online, sometimes you can find one

On 4/11/2020 at 9:54 AM, cameron walton said:

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie but pretty handy with a DMM (controls technician). I have been fighting a junker quad i picked up as a project bike, was assured it would run if I replaced the battery and cleaned the carb. I replaced the battery, rebuilt the carb with a OEM kit. FIxed all my switches and foul played circuitry from the last guy.... So I could get it to start long enough to test the quad, it seems okay from a trans/engine point. However I couldn't get the carb adjusted to idle to save my life with the idle air screw or the thumb screw on the card for the slide. I took it to a friend who is much more familiar with yamaha and quads and he double checked my carb rebuild all was fine, he adjusted the float to make the fuel not overfill which i missed.

He pulled the air intake, got it started and couldn't get it to idle with or without air filter. We started looking at the spark plug (new) and he tested it with a spark plug clamp meter, tested good, pulled it and grounded and it had spark but he felt it was weak. I order a working used oem coil to try the easy things first. When I ohm out the coil on the quad with my Fluke i'm seeing .4 ohms on primary (ground lug to male connector) and 18K ohms on secondary (inside boot to ground lug). Seems like this forum is full of bear trackers so I'm hoping someone has some ideas to help me figure where to go with this. His thought was he know I ave fuel and he knows I have air, spark would be next. I have spark but possibly weak. Thanks

For spark...Check out the stator, lots of Yamahas have a coil on it to provide power to the CDI and coil. It's called the source coil. You can usually buy a whole stator pretty cheap on Amazon now for lots of quads. My Warrior 350 had this problem many times, the heat kills the coil. 

As for the idle problem, most likely the pilot jet is plugged. It's so small it gets plugged easy. It takes a very small wire to clean. Check it VERY close.

On 4/6/2020 at 6:23 AM, Ajmboy said:

That's nice of you, I'll let you know definitely when I get into it. I have a few pullers for cars and may have one from an old yamaha I worked on years ago. I have to look.

So you think it just went like that? Once I get the cover off I'm going to check. I think what's going on is something like this video I found on youtube:

 

I'm going to get into it later today or tomorrow to see what's up. Thanks for the tip!

I bet it's #6 on your diagram, a one-way clutch. They wear out/fall apart

Is this why on my Warrior 350 the gun fits super tight? Is there really a metric zerk? If so is it a tiny bit larger than the SAE?

Or is it jut the threads are different??

Is it a 350? Probably the source coil on the stator. 

@T_bell40 I like to take the bolts out if the airbox so it will push back a bit, helps me get the carb out easier. Waste of time to try to clean without removing IMO

1994 Warrior 350 baby! And it's like new with a whole lot of miles.