Spartacus Stroppel

I was referring to it did let me post this Kawasaki plow mount... when I had posted stuff in 2018 with pictures on this same Kawasaki and the carb work I did....and admin said new members have to be ok'd to post... I was just saying I'm not a new member....🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

Sorry if I do not make sense I just got off a 18 hour shift at work...

I think you as a admin can see this but I been here a while... I'm not on a whole bunch but when I wrench on my atvs I try to post about it. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

And thank you for responding...

I betting they reset me as I'm not on enough...

I'm not new I have other post and have up load repair manuals....hhhmmm... why is this locked now... I have even down loaded a repair manual I needed...which you had to have 10 post or something like that to do that

So I have a 2001 Kawasaki prairie 300 I could not find tough country snow plow... it's a older plow too boot... so I made the plow mount and updated the plow with some skids.

Mount plate is 1/4 steel plate and so are the pin points

The skids are off a moose plow. I got some plumbing black pipe for holders to weld to the blade and braced it with pieces left over from the plow mount 1/4 steel...

1/4 plate cost $45

Skids cost $24

U bolts and other hardware where $20 

I got the blade free

I dont have a sewing machine. It's a contoured seat.. but $34 didn't seem to bad and it fit good

I dont like doing  upholstery work.. but cant afford for someone else to do it for me so here's my go at it... picked up the staple gun at harbor freight 1/4" long staples... ordered the cover off of ebay.. the guys said to get this material as it is more forgiving... it's like a tweed nylon  stuff... and not the fake leather stuff... here are the before... I did trim the old one so it wasn't rippling under the new one..but held the foam on the seat back..in pics is what was left of old one after I trimmed it...

Not to bad 

I would not cut boot.. just unhose clamp it and pull boot back to get a better look... if you cant just take it apart... boots can be $$$$ and that one doesn't look to bad

Here is what I would do... that is a NPT fitting... get thread tape (pipe dope)... find you a NTP plug with a piggy back plug. Thread tape the new plug with piggy back and never remove it again... use the piggy back to drain from... the NPT fittings are tapered cut threads so they get tighter as you screw them in deeper so be careful you can bust the case easy with that thread type... but they seal easier when you cant use a gasket... 

Go to admins post for my up load click on it here... then scroll down till you find write a review... this will help tell others that the file is what it says it is and that it is complete.

Thank you

If the manual worked for you please post up a review on it... I find it's hard to read write color in the schematics other then that seems complete... 

For the cheap carbs you have to get the right size needle and seats and orfice for the engine you are putting it on.. the ones that come with the carb are wrong... it took me a long time to get mine to run decent with a China carb... I had to order all the right guts for it... in short new carb took more time and money to set up if you got a rebuild able oem one.

On 8/15/2019 at 8:07 AM, Sonders said:

It appears that the Service Manual thread at top of forum is dead as all the links no longer work.  I'm actually looking for service manual for a 2000 KVF300 Prairie that I just picked up.  Does anybody have link to one that they can share, or know where I can find one?  Thanks in advance for any help.

I just uploaded the repair manual you are wanting. It says it will need to be approved by admin so I dont know how long that takes

check the rear rims. a lot of time the offset is different from front to rear... maybe he just swapped them without paying any attention...when he put on new tires

just like a self tapper in wood... you might get away with taking it in and out 2 times but its cutting threads "its own new threads" everytime you take it in and out... thats why the piggy back is so....important..... it is not self tapping its a mini drain plug in the self tappeting drain plug...

here a pic say a thousand words... see start of thread its that way to cut threads this is a single oversize... see the mini drain plug in the center this is where you would do your oil changes for this piont forward

with a over size drain plug atleast in the auto world you dont tap the hole.. the drain plug is made like a self tapping screw as it cuts its on threads... this is why the piggy back is important you dont want to take the drain plug in and out as it cuts its own threads (the one im talking about)

1 hour ago, pokerl0w said:

does that mean I can let it smoke for a while?

btw, that metal in the oil... idiot here solved the puzzle. I stripped the oil plug and caused the metal. I bet I even ran metal through there after I did it and caused more (minor?) damage.

this is why I didn't mind buying a "junker" - it's like the old computer days when you didn't save often or backup to the almighty cloud - I'd break or lose something and have to rebuild.

if you can find the thread size and pitch. auto parts places have what is call a one oversized drain plug but try and find a one over size drain plug with piggy back... this is a drain plug with another drain plug in it...that way you wont have to deal with the stripped one. you take out the piggy back and drain there...

and thank you for the pionters kent... and everyone... i have been known to miss things either by not knowing or just in a hurry. i would have to agree tuning of carbs is dieing. even with me. i been doing more efi building on stuff then carb anymore (mostly in car stuff)

yep did all that.. the fuel was leaking out of the float bowel for being to full.. (missed adjusted from previous owner) it all so had a worn spot on float where needle hit so i polished it smooth. the float adjustment by manual is dum.. i adjusted like i have before with my rm250c Mikuni carb. its only a bog spot right of idle after that is runs real good. and to adjust idle mix.. you have to remove carb on this model as it is located bottem center after butterfly and is recessed into the carburetor.. making it all most impossibleto adjust... 

o ya this carb was supposedly cleaned and adjust at a atv shop... but leaked fuel, had dead spot and had the harness to warmer and temp sender laying on trans not hooked up before i started fixing it...

ya i got the oem back on now. i used the fuel warmer and harness off the new carb on oem carb. i adjusted float to stop leak on oem carb... but now i have a dead spot right off throttle... i think the idle mixture screw not adjusted right...  so im going to.make a adapter using a harley idle screw and a speedo cable so i adjust it like you can adjust the idle on the butterfly... and not rip the whole thing apart to get to the idle mixture screw..

i just got a Kawasaki Prairie myself.. i looked at a couple bayou's but did not like the trans setup... i am all so plowing snow with mine once i get the plow fixed... i liked the fact of the CV trans with belt... this way if i hit something hard it will give in the belt and hopefully not rip gear teeth off in trans... i got mine as a basket case. so.i been bolting it back togthere with the help of a repair manual i bought on line...i have not yet hit 10.post on this forum to unlock that yet... i can tell you if you keep running it you will probably be money ahead to find a used engine off of ebay. 

so got it on.. like you said flat spot in throttle... needle leaked to top.it off.. so i pulled it and pulled it apart. adjusted float level. notice it was running lean up 1/2 throttle... so i pulled the jets out they are way to small.. so i am waiting on the proper jets i had to order... i contacted the seller of this carb and aaid qhat do you want to do.. they refunded me the purchase price of the carb...as it was not even close and specifically listed for this quad and engine size... so more to come...

well got the carb in the mail today. man this thing looks nice...only thing i dont like is the slide being plastic but everything is going that way. pics of what i ordered... bolting it on here in a couple hours.. crossing fingers 80% and no fuel leaks i will be happy...lol

yes seal kit with needle and seat is $15 and i need a float which is another $20. the slide is scratched looks like someone cleaned it with 80 grit sand paper... so i found (ebay) carb for this exact model 4 wheeler with sencer,warmer ect ect. for $42.. if i only get 80% performance out of it i will be ok with that as long as it dont leak gas everywhere and light me up like a roman candle...

has anyone tried these cheap carbs from china? the original carburetor has been rebuilt by a shop right before i bought this quad and i think the float is shot the work done was way sub par... the price of the seal kit was as much as the whole carb... i have used the china 150cc engines with no problems... and have used the harbor freight 212cc engines on mini bikes.. so im hoping to hear so one has used them on this model with ease.... if no one replies i will update in a day or 2 i got the carb it looks very well made. has the carb sencer and warmer all ready installed..