tjakes680

So I did a oil change on my 04 Lakota today I usually use Kawasaki 10w40 synthetic but I used the last of it on my KLX230 So I had about 6 quarts of Amsoil 0W40 4 stroke power sport synthetic oil in my basement and figured ill use this .Well all I can say is this oil is excellent its good for all weather extremes cold and hot I always thought 0 was only good for extreme cold but from Ansoil it says both cold and hot extreme climate and replaces 10-W40 ,So anywY quad is running smoother cooler engine to the touch shifts so much better Can this be just from oil and when I say that I know how important oil is to our machines but wow what a difference in the way this quad moves now Well I guess this is my new go to oil I always heard Amsoil was good but never used it I can deff say its good oil for my machine wY bettr then Kawasaki synthetic 10w-40 that I was using   

actually did a gravity bleed when i filled it and then took my reverse bleeder and pushed all air out through resavour and worked great I picked up a small reverse bleeder on ebay i used it 2-3 times and works real well only down side i dont like to pour the fluid thats left over in reverse bleed bottle back in the container the fluid comes in  , but as long as bottom  of stem is coverd in bleeder u dont waste much Thanks for relpy 

yea i was thinking does it need to be bench bled regular bleed i can do Seat comes off pretty easy thanks ill try reg bleed like you say

I have a 2004 Kawasaki Lakota 300 and have to replace rear master cylinder and rear caliper. Does a new rear master cylinder need to be bench bled or bled separately or can I just bleed whole system like a regular brake-bleed? If it does need to be done separately or on bench how would I do this Thanks in advance 

5 minutes ago, LesterL said:

Im having similar issues, guess I need to pull the drums off and look at mine now.... 🙂

yes I found some new caliper inserts and duat covers from a 85 and 87 lt 230 but now i have to rebuild my master cylinder i just been so busy this summer but was planning on getting on it this week now that summers over u can find a MC replacement for 20$ on ebay  

3 hours ago, bellarmine said:

You're welcome Jake, glad I helped!  Hpe I can get my friend's Chinese carb sorted out enough to be usable - is starting and idling nice, and driving full speed pretty good, just an occasional hesitation, and sometimes die on letting off the throttle - getting close.  If you want let me know how it goes with your true-blue OEM rebuild, might be interesting to compare........Cheers Jake!~  Bellarmine

Yes I will deffintly keep you posted and put up my results 100% thanks again

1 hour ago, bellarmine said:

Hi Jakes, Thought I'd comment on my experience with a Shindy kit.  I have a 1986 Kawasaki Bayou 300 owned since new.  Good machine, weak points in my opinion are the carburetor and starter.  Keihin CVK-32 vaccuum slide carb very picky about dirt.  Ever so often it won't start, I drain the float bowl helps it fire up (water?), then if it persists it's carb clean time.  Probably done it a dozen times now, do it in my sleep. 

Anyway, I decided at one point about 2014 to put in a new carb kit, since it still had all the original seals and jets from near 30 years before.   Like you I bought a Shindy kit, feeling they were good quality and Japanese for a Japanese ATV.

Well, from the get go I had a high unstable idle - either racing or died.  I'm not sure, the tiny washer on the pilot screw might have been bent.  Anyway, I put back in the original pilot screw and problem gone.  Further update, for a number of reasons I won't go into here, the machine sat from 2017 until 2020, wasn't started at all.  Needless to say I cleaned the carb, upon disassembly I found the Shindy float bowl o-ring had turned to gooey TAR.  So, in absence of anything else I put back and am currently using the original OEM float bowl o-ring, jets and parts from 1986, and it is running great.  Just needs a bit of ether if it goes much below freezing, getting old.  Starts instantly and idles smooth otherwise, see a video on how it starts and my starter motor replace tip below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1rUehPXoaY

So draw your own conclusion.  Hope you find that interesting if nothing else.  I'm currently helping another fellow with a 1993 Suzuki QuadRunner 300, he bought a Chinese carb for it as the original carb was 'lost' (??), so I have no baseline to compare with.  With my experience with my Kawasaki, and like you cleaning all 3 of yours, I'm sure I could have gotten it running perfect by simply cleaning the old carb, but what is to be will be...:o)  Am getting close to it running decent. 

Try putting back in your original OEM parts in one of your OEM carbs and try that - what have you got to lose?....:o)

Cheers Jakes!~  Bellarmine

thank you so much as ur experience is pretty close to my own ever since the Shindy kit nothing at all but problems  I actually just ordered all OEM  carb parts from Partzilla and am going to rebuild the OEM with these parts . My only other experience with Shindy  I rebuilt my Kawasaki Lakotta Kehiem CVK carb 3 years ago and its been running perfectly but since I tried to rebuild the Mikunni carb VM 23  its been nothing but a headache I actually had to put a Chinese carb on  to sort things out bike is running but I want to go back with OEM as I dont trust or like the way machine runs on China carb  I actually have 3 Miikunni carbs sitting in my basement that i have to rebuild But again thanks so much for the  reply it deff helps my opinion of Shindy  kits not being correct sizes and poor quality I should have just took all jets out cleaned them and put them all back from day one 

11 minutes ago, Mech said:

SDK777..  Up at the top of the page in "Downloads", there are manuals for free.

Tjakes.. It's important to match the whole carbies worth of jets at a time. They have different cut-away slides, discharge tubes, and needles, all of which are critical to the acceleration process. The idle jetting, both air and fuel, needs to match the combination of slide cutaway, discharge tube and needle you have. And the main jets, both air and fuel, need to be right for the emulsion tube and discharge tube for accelerating, and for full throttle mixture.. But not all the models of carby are going to be right at altitude or with inferior fuel or high or low temperatures etc. So...

If you're making up a carby, it's mostly easier to find a model in the specs that has the same body, with the same hose attachments, (and these can have vacuum ports with different/restricted bores, so watch out), and the same slide and needle that you are going to use, then match up recommended jets to suit. Then try it and adjust things as/if needed... Otherwise we can end up chasing our tails trying to rejet to compensate for a slide or emulsion tube that's not right, and buggering some other aspect of the running up doing it.

Check the supplements for differing carby specs... Build a carby to spec and it will probably run pretty good.

 

gottca I have the OEM carb that came with quad im going to change all the jets and use all ORm jets as replacements the exact ones from Mikuni so hopefully that heps I learned the hard way what ur talking about with the ebay rebuild kits im going to get on it this week ill post results 

I have a 1986 LT230 GE i bought a hard copy manual on ebay last year You may find it on here for free there r plenty of manuals 

2 hours ago, Mech said:

You really should download a manual. If you look in the back of the manual it will have a supplement section where they describe all the differences in different years, and in those sections you may find a carby with the size jets you have..

If you are going to change jets, you need to change both the air and fuel metering jets, and slide needle and discharge tube.

i have a manual I was just replacing old jets with newer ones but I feel the china rebuild kits many of the jets are wrong I got OEM jets from patrzilla just have not used them yet

2 hours ago, Mech said:

You really should download a manual. If you look in the back of the manual it will have a supplement section where they describe all the differences in different years, and in those sections you may find a carby with the size jets you have..

If you are going to change jets, you need to change both the air and fuel metering jets, and slide needle and discharge tube.

I have the quad running pretty good I think u helped me in the beginning of this post I basically replaced whole air and fuel system I just want to put the OEM jets back in and see if i can get to the point where im totally satisfied but its not bogging any more just feel it could have more power  

thanks I kind of fixed it honestly it runs alot better had to change flange on engine side of carb and then changed all the air ducts from the air box out changed all fuel lines I want to say its fixed but it still does not run the way id like I have to change all the jets because Im really convinced that the jets i got on ebay from china are not the correct sizes even if they are marked as the correct size I have all new OEM jets just have not had time to swap them out prob will do it this week. Witch jet is the choke jet? I have it running pretty decent I clocked it about a week ago it did get up to 49 mph but it just does not feel right my problem is I have 2 4 wheelers and a dirt bike so its hard to remember how each one ran or runs especially when i haven't been riding the Suzuki much Thanks for input im going to chk i just not sure witch is choke jet 

4 hours ago, Mech said:

I also see the adjusters are right back in. Are you sure they were adjusted out correctly when you were trying to bleed and get pressure. You might have trouble bleeding, or getting pressure, if the shoes have to move too far before they contact the drum.

The adjusters should be ok the wheel is spinning freely  but good point ill look into that its difficult to find any parts at all for these brakes I did manage to find some new springs these were rusty and very tight i dont know if thats a problem

2 hours ago, Mech said:

Those dust covers aren't going to do much good with that gap between them and the cylinder. And the pistons look pretty dirty too ?

I presume you did have the brake drum on when you were bleeding the brakes. I'd check at the master cylinder that there was actually pressure. I'd take the pipe/hose off somewhere and block it with my thumb and try pumping fluid through. If it got fluid, and some pressure, then I'd reconnect and try bleeding at the wheels. It's always a good idea to pump the lever up to as much pressure as you can, then undo the bleeder suddenly so you get a fast flush of fluid through, which will carry the air with it. If you pump slowly, or open the bleeder slowly, an air bubble can rise up against the downward flow of fluid.

I think though that you need to check the condition of those cylinders.. The springs should pull the pistons back in.. the rubber boots should fit, and stay over the cylinders. I'd get two screwdrivers and hook them into the backing plate and pressing against the brake shoes, and then keeping pressure on both shoes, I'd lever them both right in, then from side to side a little to make sure they moved nicely.

this was before cleaning cylinders and changing dust covers i have cleaned them replaced dust covers and have them looking pretty nice and sealed now Witch is what i thought would fix the problem im going to do a reverse bleed and see what i can get .I know the cylinders are moving good also I used some fine emory cloth and cleaned them up soaked them in brake fluid and they seemed to be good i do have new springs coming also im going to do what u mentioned to chk hose for leaks but im almost positive there is no leak Maybe the drum was not seated against the wheel back plate as good as it should be ill chk on this as wheels are still off thanks will post results 

I have a 1986 quadrunner 230 GE so the problem is I can not get any pressure in front brake lever I know this means a leak possibly or air  but i opened all wheel cylinders and found one with a torn dust cover i had a spare cover and then pulled calipers soaked in brake fluid reinstalled amd still no pressure I can get fluid to come out of bleeders at wheels but cant build pressure Should and what if anything should i chk at master cylinder ? thanks guys 

On 3/6/2022 at 8:46 PM, maddj63 said:

I recently purchased a 1997 KLF 300, and I also need a service manual.  I have no spark.  I’ve replaced the CDI and coil with spark plug wire coming from it but still no spark.

I need the correct ohms for the stator on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300.  Does anyone have that information?

I also need the ohm measurement for the pickup coil on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300.  Does anyone have this information?

I checked the pickup coil on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300 and it measures 438 ohms?  Is that good or bad?

i have.  manual for a 2003 kllf just to be sure its a Lakotta ? Im almost plsitve the years are interchangeable when i get home ill post info i willl try to see if I have it on my phone   actually I think ur talking about  a Bayou i have a Lakota its a KEF 

On 3/6/2022 at 8:46 PM, maddj63 said:

I recently purchased a 1997 KLF 300, and I also need a service manual.  I have no spark.  I’ve replaced the CDI and coil with spark plug wire coming from it but still no spark.

I need the correct ohms for the stator on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300.  Does anyone have that information?

I also need the ohm measurement for the pickup coil on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300.  Does anyone have this information?

I checked the pickup coil on my 1997 Kawasaki KLF 300 and it measures 438 ohms?  Is that good or bad?

i have.  manual for a 2003 kllf just to be sure its a Lakotta ? Im almost plsitve the years are interchangeable when i get home ill post info i willl try to see if I have it on my phone 

I have a86 LT quadrunner 230 shaft drive and I decided to do a rebuild on my carb a few months ago so I ordered a Shindy rebuild kit witch I have used on other machines in past and always was very happy with results. So problems start right after rebuild on my Mikuni VM 24 ss carb right from the start I had high rpm i couldn't control I found a hole in intake boot on fuel side and changed boot then I couldn't get enough fuel to carb I changed and used a OEM fuel pump I changed all fuel lines all vent lines all air box ducts and all parts are OEM also new throttle cable new fuel valve new fuel strainers in tank basically total new fuel and air system all OEM ! So I wind up finding a guy parting out same exact machine on ebay and has 2 OEM carbs so I buy both and 2 Shindy rebuild kits and rebuild them and still have same problem machine bogs out under load, finally fed up I buy a cheapo Chinese carb for 35$ and machine is running good not great but good ! So the other day cheapo carb starts leaking and I pull it off and take all of the OEM carbs go through them clean them again, not that they were dirty I use non ethanol fuel but they never worked anyway I install one same problem I go through all 3 same problem bog at load and one wont even idle at all so I fix leak on cheapo carb put it back works fine. Here is my thing im not a proffesonal mechanic but have owned and done enough work on machines that  I have owned in my 54 years of life and  I can not see me rebuilding 3  exact same carbs wrong I used Shindy rebuild kits on all 3 so are these kits reliable? I feel my main jet needs to be drilled out but why when im going stock with machine and its supposed to be 115 ? Anyone else experience problems with Shindy kits are there jets sized correctly ?Very frustrating 

Im looking to get a tachometer or RPM meter to check idle speed on my 86 Suzuki LT quadrunner 230 GE and my other quads and dirtbikes I have . Does anyone recomend if I should use a  tach or a RPM meter and know of a good one that hooks up easy I know there is 1 type that hooks up to spark plug and counts spark plug firing Anyone have experiance with this thanks guys 

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

Ok. Well I'm glad it's going good again. And you've checked(by taking the inlet piping off and feeling with a finger) that the slide is going up far enough so it's not intruding into the venturi at all ?

Every carby I've seen the slide hit the cap on top, and that was just full open venturi. If you check and find the slide's not opening the venturi fully, then the problem will be that the slide needle's the wrong one or set wrong.

Then again, perhaps suzuki decided the slide had to stay a little way down to maintain a little vacuum for the pump to operate. I've never played with one of those carbys on a bike with a pump. All our quads here have diaphragm carbies.

I guess after all this you'll be happy just to leave well alone, and I couldn't fault that.  But then.. perhaps it can go just a tiny bit faster.. Me though, I don't think I've ever been fifty miles an hour on a friggen quad..  That's nutty.

haha.  Have fun.. but don't get caught.

Its top speed is 51 in 5th gear Im almost positve this was the problem because now at full throtle i get steddy pipe diameter fuel flow if i move stop screw to open throtle more it breaks up and spurts and thats exactly how the quad runs like farts lol So im assuming the vacume is just not able to maintain a stedy flow past that point Hey I look at this way now i have 3 OEM carbs rebuilt and know the fuel and air system of this quad inside out upside down Nothing like on the job training thanks again im going go out with it in a day or so and take it in trails and run it but it ran for a few hours today without a hitch Thanks again my friend 

1 hour ago, Mech said:

Onya. The vacuum drops off when the motor's under a load.. Hopefully that's the problem and it is just the pump. Otherwise... you've got low vacuum.

Low vacuum could be valve clearance, blocked exhaust, worn motor. Low vacuum at revs is a sign of a blocked exhaust. Low vacuum at low or all revs would be the others.

In some of the manuals they say to take a bung out of the back of the muffler and drain the muffler.. I've never found anything at all in there, but they seem to think they block up if they spend a lot of time going slow.. Presumably some sort of oily gunk.

Well today is the day if its possible ready for this i change the pump i take it for a ride and its running great up to 3/4 throtle i look at thumb throtle its past handle bar grip starts bogging I go and chk throtle stop screw its loose !! I set it to be even with handle bar grip meaning full throtle thumb lever is even to hand grip I chk all my other quads there all set the same. Now all of the sudden the carb is adjusting everythings working i download speedomoter app bike doing 48-51 mph at full throtle 5 th gear with it allways did no hesitation no backfiring no bogg !!! What I think happened was with all the vibration of the high idle s for days and taking the throtle cable on and off somehow the throtle stop got loose so i was going full throtle and actually pulling past the max ht of slide basically going into negitve air if that s what its called , and the way its set now the fuel does not break up going to carb at full throtle before it was again prob not enough vacumn because throtle was going past full open So now its tight set i checked side its going all the way up and quads running better then ever only took 3 rebuilt carbs 2 fuel pumps and all new air ducts and of course a manifold I basically revuilt the entire air and fuel system because a throtle stop was loose lol  I cant think of anything else that it could have been like i been saying it idles perfect but once open to what i thought was full it would bog so it was going past full throtle Mech thanks for all ur help it was invaluable you really helped me out !!!!!!!!!! So im going to mark this one SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!

So this morning i start quad it starts right up idles excellant i cahnged air filter old one was dry put freshly cleaned and oiled one still the same I pulled fuel line to carb at idle up to 3/4 throtle fuel is flowing the diameter of supply line but at 3/4 to full throtle it gets less deffintly a noticable diffrence less im going to change fuel pump and hopefully this is it I have brans new fuel pump OEM never used so ill give it a shot if thats not it i dont know what or wjere it could be ill report back what the outcome is later today Fingers crossed Mech lol and toes 

5 minutes ago, Mech said:

You could also check the fuel has a little pressure. Put your finger over the pulled off fuel hose while it's idling, it should squirt with a tiny bit of pressure. The vacuum sucks a diaphragm against a spring, and the spring sets the pressure. If the spring's weak it might have flow, but not enough to shove it past the float needle at the right rate. It's only about three or four pounds of pressure it's meant to have.. I think..haha

It should squirt a little distance though, a foot or so..

If you pull the hose off the tank and try the tap you'll see if the filters are blocked.

When i replaced fuel pump the line came off fuel tank and fuel flew right out im deff going change pump its a easy swap and i have a brand new never used oem so its deff worth a shot at this point and ill change the vacumn line to manifold as well again thanks I cant wait to hit the mark as solution button on here lol I will let u know what happens 

1 hour ago, Mech said:

If it starts to go ok for a second or so at wide throttle, then falters, it sounds like a fuel supply problem. If it falters as soon as you open the throttle wide, and recovers quickly when you back off, it sounds like jets, air or fuel jets.

You can test the pump and in tank filters by testing it as I suggested.

Here's another test though that might show us something.. Take the fuel pipe off the carb and lay it in a bottle on it's side. Pull the vacuum pipe off the manifold and suck on it two or three hard sucks, then let the vacuum off suddenly. It should shoot out a good full flow squirt of fuel. Then connect the vacuum hose to the manifold and start the engine and let it idle, it should flow petrol still at a good flow, near full diameter but not so fast as the first test. Then blip the throttle wide open while watching the flow of fuel. If it drops right off, it's because of low vacuum, which will be dropping right off when the engine's under load and the throttle's open.

So check you've got good fuel flow, and vacuum, and then vacuum under load. You could load the engine to test for weak vacuum by putting it in gear, brakes on, sitting on it of course, and then open the throttle till it's labouring on the centrifugal clutch.

The hole in that pipe poking out of the manifold needs to be a good size. Check it's the same size as the old manifold's one. It should be more than about three mills. On later models there are different vacuum ports for different purposes and if you use the small port(about 1.5mill), the pump struggles, use the big port(about four mills), and it's all good. The vacuum hose going to the fuel pump needs to be thick walled, fuel hose is best. If you use a thin walled vacuum hose, that's hose sold as vacuum hose, it gives/collapses too much with the pulsing vacuum. The pump has to get a good pulsating vacuum to it. A partially collapsing hose gives a steady non-pulsating vacuum.

 

Sounds good i actually have a new vacumn hose i didnt use its OEM for this machine  im getting a pulsating fuel flow when i took fuel line off today not steady stream but pulse i actually have a OEM brand new fuel pump im going try cant hurt . Do u think i should also empty tank and change the fuel filters in tanak i have a set i orderd and never used when i think of when all this started a few months back my problem started that i couldnt start quad  in on position of fuel valve only on reserve and I put a used pump on and new fuel valve I feel the problem is around there  why would it idle so well I have a video of idle and full throtle at idle and its perfect  also going to try a new iridium spark plug Hey thanks for all ur help its so close 

So put a brand new carb on and idle is perfect quad can idle for days full throtle at idle is perfect until i start riding and at 3/4 to full throtle quad bogs down I dont know what it can be i made adjustments to jet needle no change I put in a new spark plug no diffrence i put in a new air filter my only thing left is I have a new oem fuel pump and and i also have new fuel filters that go in fuel tank I will try changing them also what can this be im at witts end im really just stuck any ideas????

33 minutes ago, Admin said:

Added ATV info into topic title 😁

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