WantToBe

I had a flat on a new quad. You see videos of guys spraying gas into the tyre/hub and then use a flame to ignite it, that's not for me. What I do is using a ratchet tie-down strap, wrap it around the center of the tyre and tighten it. What this does is squashes the tire in the middle and forces the tyre steel rims onto the hub. Just add air and your good to go. The only WARNING is just add enough air so the tyre is seated and then slowly release the ratchet - being careful to stand at the side of the wheel so that if the ratchet flies off you're not in the path. Problem with my flat tyre is that it's old and warn and using the strap technique the tyre will not extend to the hub. Was going to put one of the front tyres on the back but it's a different hub. Back hub has 70mm between stud holes and the front hub has 80mm between stud holes. Nothing is easy...

I looked into the carbie whilst the engine was running rough and there was petrol gushing up from the bowl past the needle... I thought then "oh, that's a lot" BECAUSE everytime I got them home I thought I'd do the right thing and clean the carbies (the engines ran when I purchased them, the owners started the engines in front of me). That's what I couldn't understand. The key thing was, I'd see a bronze cylinder (maybe 8mm long) on the floor/work bench when I was cleaning up after the carbie strip/clean. Couldn't figure out where it come from. I had 2 of them sitting on my computer table for months, just in case they were important. Finally, I watched some videos on youtube and one guy stripped down a carbie and I could see these same bronze cylinders. I felt like I won the lottery!!! In this carbie there are 3 components in the metering process (not including the needle): the main jet (which has a number on it), the needle jet holder and the main jet (this is the 8mm cylinder). Youtube guy said you usually find these main jets on the floor afterwards ROFFL. They usually fall out when you're not looking and you don't know about them. One rear tire is flat so cannot go far, just around the suburban back yard but it's good to see the engine running

Note to the moderator: Why are my posts flagged as "Your content will need to be approved by a moderator" Everybody get that OR it's only me??

Looks like introduced the problem myself 😔, when I cleaned the carbies I left the needle seat out of both. My inexperience. Installed the needle seat and motor runs fine now. Thanks for the help guys 👍

ok, I thought it either worked or didn't. I'll replace and see. there is. I purchased a couple of old quads hoping to get a 'decent' one, but every one I got home has engine problems (you get what you pay for they say). Got 4 other engines (110cc) on the garage floor (not working). I decided to stop buying and try to fix them as best I could. This motor is the starting point; a lot of learning to do I guess.

Changed the carbie, still the same. Either I got 2 carbies with the same problem or problem lies somewhere else. I am still assuming this. Going to search youtube for chinese engine repairs 😉

doesn't have one I've cleaned another carbie from another old engine, I'll see how that goes

I have an old quad with a 110cc Loncin engine, with Forward/Reverse gears. Problem is that it runs rough and it blows some smoke also (it's noticeable but not bellowing smoke). It has spark and 150 PSI compression. I've stripped/cleaned the carbie since the spark plug was building up black carbon deposits quickly. I am assuming since it has 150psi the timing/etc must be OK. Should I assume that?? Should I buy another carbie to eliminate carbie problem?? When I push the accelerator the revs increase, but the roughness is still present. To me, if it was a 4 cylinder engine I would say 1 of the cylinders was not firing. Another symptom: it was running, I stopped it. It wouldn't start. No spark. Had to clean the plug to get spark again. Thanks

Took the 6mm bolt out completely, still the steering bracket was rock solid. Loosened off the big nuts and from the underneath that wasn't going to help. Time to get the 'persuading' tools out. After giving it a WD40 squirt I give the bracket a couple of taps with the hammer, nah no good. Next up was the big screw driver, jammed it in the bracket and with a sideways force give the handle a whack. Jackpot, it come loose. Mission accomplished. Thanks for the advice guys 😉

I remember taking off the bit nut on me push bike many decades ago and ball bearings (from the race) going everywhere on the floor 😝. Going to work on it again today. Decided to unscrew the 6mm bolt all the way and see what happens. Last resort is the big nut 🤞

I got a quad at the right price... FREE I have to repair the brakes and engine so I gotta take off the plastic, BUT that's the issue. The handle bars bracket has got me stumped. When I remove the handle bars you can see a 6mm bolt in the bracket so me thinks unscrew that and all should be sweet. I unscrew it a good 25mm/1" and it feels like there is still more to go but the bracket is still rock solid. I would have thought the bracket would show signs of movement. Anybody can confirm I should keep unscrewing the 6mm bolt? I doubt I should be unscrewing the steering shaft itself just to remove the plastic. I am a first timer so do not want to stuff anything up