IndyKWG

There is a band that fits around the front hub. There is a bolt if you look up from the bottom side about an inch or two up that you have to get to through a hole in the bottom. If you loosen that then put a screw driver or small punch through the front sprocket and rotate everything forward it will tighten the chain. No big deal when you know where to look. I agree completely with manuals, they can be priceless and for my own stuff I always buy them. Howerver this quad is a familiy members I got lucky enough to work on for free so I'll be darned if I'm buying the manual to fix that! Hope this helps someone esle sometime.

Hi, Has anyone changed the chain and sprockets on an older Polaris that uses Chains to drive the front axle? I bought all of this in a kit which included the rear chain and sprockets and I have those replaced. It looks like the right front axle may have to come out to replace the sprocket? Just wanting to know what I am getting into before I start taking it apart. Any time estimates or tips would be appreciated.

Might try a spray bottle when things are dry too on your electrical connections you suspect. Might help track things down as to what is getting wet and causing the problem

99 polaris xplorer 400L

Hi all, I took my driven clutch appart because it would not open and close with rmp increase and decrease. The buttons are bad and i will replace those. It came appart fast and I am unsure what holes the srping was in. There is a chart in the book that lists from soft to hard for the settings but was curious if anyone has played with these settings and how much of a difference it has made?

Definately change the spark plug. Its the cheapest and fastest fix. If that dosen't get it post back. Could be a bare spot on the coil wire shorting out or the wires to the coil shorting as the ride gets bumpier at higher speeds.

Mandy, your first post says if your above 2nd gear and have it "full Throttle" it misses out. Unless it has an after market CDI box it will have a rev limiter to keep it from over reving. If you shift to a higher gear but run half to 3/4 throttle how does it run?

I'm not too familiar with that model but you might try setting the the parking brake if it has one or pulling in the clutch if it has a manual clutch. By using the screw driver your probably bypassing all the saftey features it has.

I think a lot depends on what type of riding you do. If you are talking mostly trail riding and you're brother in law is average size and weight and same skill level then he should be able to keep up fairly well. I have a 660 and had a warrior which is what the raptor 350 used to be. I thought it handled well on the trails and was a very dependable atv. However, if your talking track or open fast paced riding the 450's and banshee should run off and leave the 350 raptor.

Got it. There is an adjustable post between the back of the engine and the transmission on the left side under the back clutch cover that keeps the engine from torquing back when you give it the gas. When I had put it all back together i did not adjust this out to keep the engine in line. Now its all solid and works like a champ. Thanks for the replies on this thread.

OH YEAH!, sorry, Yes the lack of oil in the counter balance was the reason I got this quad for such a cheap price. The gears were toast and cost me a fortune. I check that regularly now, not a real easy task but at least every other ride. The clutch, I will check the motor mounts this weekend and take your advise and try to rebuild the current one. I take it you have done this? I found a video on the internet that shows taking one appart with a few home made helper tools. However, the video didn't explain what wear points to look for or give a "parts list" of stuff to replace if your pulling one appart. What would you replace when rebuilding one?

Counterbalancer oil? Don't mean to sound totally stupid but where is it? I guess by this you can take the answer to that to be a no lol.

Its a 98 xplorer 400L. I'll check all the mounts and post back. I'd still be curious on opinions of clutch rebuilds vs replace.

Hello,

I am having an issue with my 400 xplorer. It will only top out about 25mph. I suspected the belt was slipping so I replaced it. After a full day of riding about 15 to 20 we headed down the road to return home and the belt burnt in to. I had checked allignment and that seemed OK as well. So now I am looking at clutches starting with the primary because it seems to have the most moving parts. First I priced a new one and found a comet clutch for $299. Then I priced a rebuild kit for the current clutch and found one for $199. That seemed high so I priced the pieces I thought would need replaced at bike bandit including the buttons, the spring, and a bushing. Has anyone rebuilt there primary and had any luck? Is there any way to test it before spending any money? I ran the engine with the cover off just to see what i could see. The clutch moves in and out but the whole engine moves too as the rpm increase the engine tourques toward the rear of the machine. Is that natural or could that be part of the problem? I'm looking for someone that has had these issues to give me a little advise. The things runs perfect so if I can figure this out Im in good shape. Thanks Kevin

Can you hear it click into gear and are your shift lights working? I have the 98 xplorer 400L but i am assuming they are a lot alike. Mine was messing up and I had to adjust the shift rods from the gear shift to the transmission. Worked perfect after adjustment. I would check there first.

Glad to hear you got it going. There's nothing like that first ride after you get something running that you've been to your witts end with.

I had a very similar problem on a 250 2 stroke polaris. Polaris puts drain plugs in the case at the bottom. Turns out on mine either someone had taken it out or it fell out. This put a straight hole right into the case. It gathered oil at the front of the engine on the frame as well and would only run on choke. Put in a new plug and seal for about 4 bucks and it ran perfect. Worth a look.

adjusted the linkage and added transmission fluid. Shifts very smooth now. I think the top end issue is the high speed jet. I premixed the first tank of fuel and I think its clogged. Something must have shifted on the mounting or something but the linkage took care of it.

Compression sounds right on. Does it run any different with choke on or off? Did you premix the first tank of gas? Smoking sounds like maybe too much oil (if its excessive). Also, what does the plug look like if you can keep it running for a few minutes.

Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a very used 98 Xplorer 400L. I have had the entire engine rebuilt and that part works great. I've noticed two issues with the transmission. First time out it seems to only top out about 20 to 25 mph. I have replaced the belt and still the same. Second time out same speed issue. Now it doesnt want to stay in gear, high or low. Reverse is fine. First thought was linkage but since its both high and low I wasnt sure if wasnt something more. Then add the slow speed I'm really not sure. I have way too much invested to spend much more. Any ideas are truely appreciated. What type of oil do you run in the transmission on these. Like a dummy I never checked that when I had it all appart. Would a low oil level make it act like that. The thing will pull the front end off the ground at low speeds. Thanks