83BMichigan

13 minutes ago, Mech said:

Perhaps you could heat and bend the bodywork, or make some brackets which keep it away from the tyres.. or.. last resort, cut the bodywork away so it doesn't touch.

I’d prefer not to cut it since it sits up fairly high at the touch point. I could see bending or moving the attached brackets forward so it pulls it away further from the tire. 
We just had some snow fall in michigan so I need to do something soon since I’ll be using this to plow. 

Alright so I did some poor planning and put some oversized tires on my ATV. I ended up getting a lift which helped the rubbing at the top but in the rear specifically the tires hit the foot rest/skid plate. I removed those and will figure something out but for now I need to know if/how you all moved the plastics. 
 

For the rears, I would need the plastic to move toward the front to open more space and in the front move plastic back. 
photo attached if you have ideas. 

The quad doesn’t have a fuel pump. There’s on/off/res at the petcock. I didn’t turn the petcock in any direction when moving. 
 

I’ve seen people syphon gas manually (hose/rag at fuel tank) and then go to the other end to start pulling out the air and creating a vacuum and I’m curious if that is what occurred.
 

The odd thing is it was a lot of gas, more than what would’ve been in the bowl just sitting. There was fuel in the fuel filter coming off the petcock that leads to the carb but yet the gas tank still had a decent bit of gas in it. It was a few hours after moving it that I noticed so maybe it was a steady drip for awhile. 
 

At this point, lesson learned on my end. When you guys store these for a few months, how do you deal with the gas that remains in the carb bowl? Draining it seems like gas would crystallize?

I woke up this morning and had a faint smell of gas in the house. I went to the garage and it was insanely strong and it looked like my Kodiak went the bed 🤦‍♂️.

I searched around and it looks like it leaked out the overflow from the carb. 
This was all after manually moving it around (turned nothing on/off, shifted nothing, etc)

I had replaced the carb in the winter and had no issues after quite a few uses. I did realize I failed to turn the petcock off when I was done riding over the last few months. When I pulled the fuel line off the carb to drain it, it still had good vacuum. The fuel even stayed in the fuel filter when I had it in the off position to drain it into a spare gas tank to drain off any remaining fuel, turned it back on and it flowed well. 
 

I am not sure why just moving it around (cleaning garage) but not turning it on at all would cause this to happen?

Don’t need duals, just figured I could get a spacer to make these work. I like the look. Where would the scuffing occur?

I have a Yamaha Kodiak 400 and picked up some stock wheels and tires off a Can Am X3. Outside of a hub adapter for the bolt pattern difference, is this possible?

I am thinking I’ll need some sort of spacer as well given the rear wheel lugs are set in the wheel a bit and the X3 is mostly flush

I bought a 93 that was mostly disassembled in terms of the plastics and the carb/filters/etc.

I am not seeing a line where the oil pump would connect with the carb to mix the oil/fuel. I see the main fuel line, a side vent port, and a bowl vent port.

I did download the mega manual that was shared on here but the line routing isn't showing the specifics, it's giving generic routing.

Does anyone have a photo? It sounds like somewhere around 95/96 they changed the routing so it's difficult to find what goes where.

Any help is appreciated!

Hmmm. That’s strange. I looked all over and it seems to show this on top rear and mine is more side mid-rear. 

9 hours ago, Ajmboy said:

I would probably replace both neutral safety switches to eliminate that. I believe there are two. see diagram #3

 

 

Should be part # 3GB-82540-01-00. Check Amazon and than look around online.

 

 

I do see the neutral switch but no reverse switch. They seem to operate within the same connection/circuit. 
maybe newer models have both? 
mine has a visible neutral switch and then there’s the ground cable that bolts into the engine right near it. 

I just picked this up because the former owner said his buddy was riding it and it just quit a few months back and he didn’t have time to mess with it. 
 

I messed with it and can get it to turn over with the switch but I have to have it shifted into reverse and hold the brake and the electric switch works. If it’s in High or Low gear it won’t work. 
 

the neutral switch connection seems decent and the relay will click if I pull the connection on and off. However I notice the neutral light will never come on but the reverse light will come on at the center hub (the taillight is also ALWAYS on and bright regardless of whether brake lever is pulled).

anyone have a fix for this? Every post seems old online and then there never is a resolution to it. 

It’s tubeless and the term “good deal” is always short for “good deal of problems to fix”. There were to nail type holes that I plugged. 
I’ll probably get new tires for it next year since two plugs isn’t ideal, let alone one. 

Are the rear tires on these tubeless? I bought one super cheap today knowing the rear tire has a slow leak. 
Any insight is appreciated. 

4 hours ago, johniii said:

Don't forget an oil filter. Have an 84 lt185 since it was new.

I have an oil filter on the way and it is definitely easy to forget one. It definitely falls in the out of sight, out of mind concept. 
Thank you for the reminder though. 

It was a fun evening hauling the kids around on the sled but I might need to look into wheel weights or something to bring the front end down more (weighted). I was basically leaning into the snow as we took corners, needed to get them a good corner swing. 
I’ll look around to see if others posted about weights but not sure since this is a light 4 wheeler

11 minutes ago, Ajmboy said:

I think the ATV specific oils can out later in the 90s. Just make sure its 10w40. I would probably use a 10w40 oil like Valvoline 4-Stroke 10W40 ATV Oil or similar. Walmart carries it

This was the exact one I was going to grab and then I saw I could only get it with shipping. I’ll snag it when I can. I need to give it a good maintenance run through. Don’t want to mess with the carb valves though because I don’t think I’d get it adjusted just right. 
I need to see if anyone has rigged a brake light to one of these. I thought it had one but it’s not there. 

3 minutes ago, Ajmboy said:

Welcome to QUADCRAZY! 

From:

 

Thank you for the welcome! I was just going to grab ATV Specific oil. Is that not necessary and just focus on the SAE?

On 12/15/2021 at 9:40 PM, Freedomflyer said:

Finally got some snow, enough to mount the plow.

Looking forward to this kind of level up. I was looking for a used ATV but they all were snagged up or priced high. Enjoy the time!

My searches online led me here. It’s great to see forums still alive, I used to be on a few others with a different focus. 
 

I am curious how much oil is needed for the 87 LT 185. I just picked this up before the snow really starts falling here and to let my kids use it. It’s going to need some carb tweaks or cleaning too because I have to keep it somewhat choked to make sure it doesn’t stall. 
 

I wanted to see if anyone had insight on how much oil is needed when changing it? It’s been sitting for over a year and the last guy bought for his kid and he rode it a few times. 
 

please let me know