RepairmanJake86

I own my own business and have grown immensely, I do good work and want to guarantee it for a reasonable amount of time. Any business owners out there guarantee your work for a certain amount of time? How long is reasonable in your opinions?

On 1/23/2022 at 11:41 AM, Savage said:

Markin has made a legitimate point, resistance testing is NOT 100 percent accurate test for a CDI for several reasons. Have you tried disconnecting the wire going to kill switch before replacing CDI?

Have you tested for continuity between ground pin and the other 

Yes and yes....UPDATE: I got the used CDI Box in yesterday and ohmed it out and u guys are correct. Ohmed pretty close to the bad one. That being said, the diagnosis being the bad box was correct because I got spark and she eventually fired up. So that's good news. I appreciate your guy's responses and help!

For sure brother. I thought it was odd too but I did have 2 ohm readings perfectly within specs so I guess it's a legit test. CDI is definitely bad. I found a used one with a guarantee for 65 bucks. I guess that's the way to go.

Appreciate the reply. I went by this troubleshooting guide. I'll attach a pic of it.

Got an old 84 suzuki lt125 that isn't getting spark. Coil and pickup coil ohmed good, CDI box ohm readings were bad. All I can find are used CDI Boxes for 100 bucks or more for this model...what the hell?  Why and is there any other options out there? Thanks

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

The fuel circuit might have power all the time and then the ECU earths it when they want the pump or injectors to go.. If it's fuel injected. That's fairly common.

The manual should describe how things operate.. Do you have a manual ? And what sort of motor does this have ? Suzuki by any chance ?

Yes it's suzuki. I have a service manual for the Cat but not the engine itself. I don't recall seeing anything about fuel circuit having constant power but ill look again. Appreciate the response 

19 minutes ago, Mech said:

Ok, so in the list of trouble codes, is there one for an open circuit in the ignition feed wire ?

Perhaps there is no code for that fault.. If there is a code for that fault, then I'd still be expecting a bad earth or power to the ecu.. They often have several power and earths to a ECU. And all the powers and earths going into the ECU  are for separate circuits, so you need to confirm they are all good.

It's also possible that the ECU acts as a CDI and only sends a pulse of power to the coil when a spark is needed. I'm not familiar with those machines.

Other than that.. there's a break or an earth in the wire from the ECU to the coil.

Appreciate the response,  but the wire from the ecu to the coil is good..I am going to untape the harness and look for breaks though 

I've got no signal from the ecu to the spark coil. I did disconnect the neg cable from the battery, and put my test light in series with it. It then lit up when I touched ground. So I put my power probe on it and I've got battery voltage to ground. I start pulling fuses and it's in the fuel circuit. 

That's where I'm at so far 

Hey fellas, I've been referring to this forum a bunch over the years , but finally needed to create an account for some help,, so this is my first post. I'm working on a friend's 06 Arctic Cat 700efi that has no spark whatsoever and am kinda at a loss. To begin with, he had tried to fix it himself so he had replaced alot already...I know, I know lol. This is what has been done; New plug twice, new coil twice with new one ohming out great, new stator, new rectifier,  and new starter solenoid. 
.    The biggest frustration is that I've got no codes. ECU shows that I'm in neutral and my brake safety switch works. I also show 12.5v at the tilt sensor pin on ecu which I assume is correct and then if u flip, then u lose voltage. Am I right, or no? Only other things I can think to do is replace Crank position sensor, get a peak voltage meter and read my peak voltages, or replace ecm which obviously is last resort.

I also verified the pulse coil. Thank you in advance