olddude

Hey if you don't mind......If you do get from them could you tell us how it went.

Try these people you might find something there. Charging (rmstator.com)

Maybe some of them are capable. I remember when you couldn't buy much of anything that wasn't built in Japan and some of that stuff was built quite well. I also remember when you could by a tv made here and get 10 or 15 years out of it maybe more. Today, you are lucky to get 2 years out of one and the same with most electronics you buy. Unions and gubment regulations are pretty much the reason for American companies sending their products abroad to be manufactured. Unions were really good at making a $5 part cost $50 and this gubment's lust for control of anything and everything that's done here, not to mention it's never ending lust for more money to give away to one group or another. I wont carry this any farther here because it's not what this thread is about.

Actually sometimes an aftermarket part is better than some of the OEM stuff. That is if it is made here and not some china knockoff. Back before china took over the world there were smaller companies that could supply just about any part you could think of and be as good if not better that OEM. Just because a part is OEM doesn't mean much when it comes to materials and workmenship. Now day though you can hardly find a aftermarket part that isn't made in china. Years ago when I was a boat dealer I used mostly aftermarket parts in our shop not because they were cheaper but because they were better, especially OMC parts. Sadly because of everyones lust for the cheapest parts they can find, Me included😯 I hate to say a lot of the older aftermarket companies are now gone because they just could not build stuff as cheaply as the crap that comes from china. I'm sure there are some of those old companies that have managed to survive and you can find them you just have to look for them. I've been out of it for a long time now and find myself in the same place as you are and the search goes on.

The pig tail is just not long enough to where you can get a good look at it. Probably if I pulled the air box off it would be possible to get down to it. I don't see any other switch that might turn the fan on. There is a switch though that says override or something like that but nothing happens when I slide it one way or another. That switch is just under the green push button start switch. I have been trying to figure out just what that switch is for but have had no luck. That switch appeares to be factory. But as I stated the radiator temp switch seem to be working as it should.......well the last time I checked it anyway.

Thanks for that link. Believe me, I have tried to get up in there but it's impossible to get to those terminals, you can't get to where you can even see them without taking a bunch of stuff off. it would be a hit and a miss to try and probe the wires in the back of the plug. I thought about that but decided against it because I was afraid I would mess it up. I had checked that radiator fan sensor awhile back because I had never noticed the fan coming on. When riding it I could feel a lot of heat on the side of my right leg and though it was over heating but later found out the heat was coming from that exhaust leak at the muffler to the pipe connection. I guess I was just not running it hard enough for the fan to come on. Finally I let it sit and idle awhile after riding it for awhile. It finally came on and I checked the temp with my lazer temp gun. I checked it from a cold start until the fan came on and it was within a couple degrees of what the spec was. It cut the fan off when the temp came down to the cut off spec. At first I thought maybe the fan was bad but I tested that by puttin 12v to the fan connector and it started normally so I knew the fan was good so that only left the sensor or the wiring. In the end everything checked out like it should. I only had that light problem one time and that was after fixing that leak and changing the spark plug, oh and also putting that heavy dose of StarTron. on the first start up it ran ok but the next day on start up it has h@ll to start and ran like crap for about ten minutes but ater shutting it off and restarting it several times it cleared up and ran good and haven't had that problem since. The miss is gone but like I said It will still do that spit back through the intake every now and then, maybe 3 or 4 times on a half hour ride. It just does it at lower speed like when You come off the throttle to make a tight turn or are pulling it into the shop or putting it on the trailer. The weird thing is that it doesn't do it every time just once in awhile.

Hey Mech........I checked the ECT and everything seems ok, well maybe. This may be a dumb question but where in the parts lookup can you find these sensors? I looked all over and none seems to be listed. The only thing I could find was the ECM. The reason I ask is that I couldn't check the resistence on the sensor itself. There is just no way to get in there to check it without taking it out. I tried and I'm afraid if I really try it will be no good by the time I do get it out and I thought of buying a new one before I do take it out just in case. I couldn't even get to the IAT it's packed in there so tight I couldn't even get my hand on the connector. I could maybe get to it if I removed the airbox or maybe the front fender but it's so close to hunting season I hate to open up that can of worms right now. It is runing ok enough to get through the season and I planned on getting a new fender sometime after the season is over. The miss is gone I think changing the plug fixed that, it's just that little spit back I get every now an again at lower speed that's left, other than that it runs well.

Just looked again and found out that light is the engin coolant temperature/FI indicator light. I'm going to look at that sensor and connector later today.

HeHeHe......I hate it when you sit down for a thick juicy steak and remember it's still in the cooler. Although that's about the way I felt when I figured out about that plug. I still can't believe I admitted to doing that.😯 I'll try the learning trick and see what happens. Yesterday I needed to take a short trip through the woods to do some relic hunting and it started up like nornal but it shut right off with a little spit sort of like the back fire thing. I tried several times to get it going and after about 5 attempts it started but ran like crap spitting back through the intake and really boggy. I didn't think I was going to be sble to get her going. Finally it cut off again but started right back up and I managed to back it out of the shop. When I took it out of reverse and put it foward it shut off again but started right back up. I finally got it going and several times I though it was going to cut off but I was able to toggle the throttle back and forth and it finally got to where it picked up speed. Once I got it moving along it did seem to run a little better and I got to the place I needed to get to. I was worried that if I did cut it off if I would be able to get it going again but I went ahead and shut it down. I hunted for around 3 hours and one I got back and got it loaded back up I hit the start button and it started right up. It did spit and cough a couple times but once I got to where I could get up some speed it ran ok all the way back to the shop. I did notice one thing, well maybe two. When I first had trouble getting it started I noticed a red light right to the right of the green neutral light. I cut the switch off to see if it would go away but it it came back on. It did this several times until it finally went out and that's when it finally started. The light never came back on the whole time I was riding it. I've never noticed that light before so I'm thinking it was why it wouldn't start. I looked around to see what that light is but I haven't been able to find anything. The second thing I noticed was a noise like a ticking sound that I never noticed before. It only does it at low speed when I give it gas and once it gets going it quits. I'm thinking the reason I couldn't hear it before was because of that exhaust leak I had. It was making a lot of noise compared to how it sounds now. Don't know for sure and is just a thought. When I first fixed the leak it ran really good and I thought everything was good. Then I replaced that spark plug and the first time I rode it it seemed a little better. It sat for a couple days until yesterday and it started this next chapter. There was one other thing I did when I changed the plug. I always like to put fuel additive in the gas when I plan to leave them sitting for a couple weeks. I also sometimes put some in the fuel tank when I suspect maybe there may be some fuel related problem like water or trash in the tank. I have had that stuff bring many sick boat engines back to life both carb and FI. It's Star tron fuel enzyme fuel treatment. It does a really good job of cleaning the whole fuel system. I guess it's possible that this stuff could have broke up a wad of crap and stopped up something. Again just a thought.....

A shovel this time of year ain't a good idea anyway..... I do have a confession to make though. I told you that I had changed the spark plug in that bike but never did. I remember now that I started to but found out I didn't have the right one so I ordered one. That was a couple months ago and that day I changed the plug in my old Gravely and one of my Wheel Horses. I also put in a new air filter in the bike and forgot all about the spark plug. I don't know why but later on all I remembered was spark plugs and air filters. Fast forward to now I was working on my plasma table Sat. and there were some parts on top of it for my lawn mower and another little ATV I have and among those parts I found a spark plug that I didn't know what it went to..........Then like a ton of bricks it hit me that it was the plug for the 500 that I thought I had replaced. I looked it up and sure enough it was. One look at the plug boot and I knew that I never replaced it, in fact I thought I was going to rip the wire in half trying to get it off. Once I had it in my hand I could see that it was badly worn, in fact the center electrode had worn down way below the end of the plug and the gap was over .060 right at double what it was supposed to be. Once I replaced it with the new one and started the bike it ran much better, imagine that! It started much better also. A bit later I had the time to take it out for a short run and after about a half hour I was satisfied that it was almost fixed. I said almost because although the little miss was gone and it ran much better it still had that cough,sneeze, back fire through the intake. It wasn't as bad it only did it twice the whole time I ran it. Before it would do this pretty much all the time especially at lower speeds while just riding along at a steady speed. Give it the juice and it goes like a bat out of h@ll no stumble, miss or anything. It has always been cold natured and ran poorly right after a cold start. Once it warmed up a little it would run a little better but had that miss and what I'll call cough. Now it runs much better when cold has no mid to hi miss just that every now and again cough, sneeze, back fire through the intake thing. If it stayed like that I could almost live with it but in the back of my head I would always know it was an accident waiting to happen. Also I was thinking......when I replaced the air filter I replaced it with one of those K&N filters do you think that's causing a lean fuel mixture due to the extra air flow they are supposed to give? Just a thought, the old one was badly worn and really dirty.

Ok, that all makes sense. I just didn't know what I was working with by just looking at the parts diagrams because none of them show that stub. I already removed the clamp, someone had tried to get it off at some time and banged it up pretty good but I did manage to get it straightened out. I had to thread on a thread chase to the bolt and run a tap through the hole to clean the threads up. Where it was spot welded it left a hole in the flange but I welded the hole full then ground the rough spots down smooth. I have a friend that owns a muffler shop and I'll get him to expand the end of the tube to fit the connector also. I orderd the connector and a new plug yesterday and that should take care of at least one of my problems. I did look around for that box, someone else, (maybe you) had mentioned that when I was trying to figure out what I had when I first got the bike. Just looking at it at a glance I'd say it didn't have one but I'll look around some more. Also, I downloaded that KQ 500 manual yesterday so that should take care of that. The only difference I see so far is that manual has a section on power assist steering so I should be good on that too. I know this bike was treated pretty rough in it's other life. In fact I almost passed it up when I saw that it had had a snorkel kit on it at one time and when I removed the seat I could see water marks up past the battery box. But it started and ran good so I decided to take the chance. At the time I wasn't too concerned about the Frankenstein plastic situation because overall the rest of the bike looked pretty solid. I think it will be a good machine once I get a few of these little bugs worked out. Oh.....Thanks so much for what you have done, It's kind of rare to find a site that has people like you that will actually take their valuable time and use it to help others like you have done. Semper fi

I looked at the spark arrestor yesterday and it was clean. Also I already checked the plug and the gap and they looked good but I never was any good at looking at a spark plug and be able to guarentee it was good. Sometimes I have pulled them off the shelf and they were bad. Do you know off hand what plug is supposed to be in there I changed the one that was in there when I bought it but I just put back what was in there. I'm not sure about that canister can you tell me where to look for something like that? All those parts a packed in there pretty good and it's hard to tell what's in there unless you take a lot of plastic off and with this bike it's a real pain because of the way the original guy patched this thing up. One day I might put new plastic on it but I wanted to put a little time on it to see what I have before I spent that much money on plastic then have the engine poop out.

I believe there was one for KingQuad 500 but it don't say anything as far as a year goes.

Thanks.....I believe you helped me out with the serial number search thing awhile back. If I remember there were a couple letters or numbers in the serial # that didn't seem right but from that we decided that this bike is a 2011 LT A 500X L1 E33. I looked over parts manuals for a week or more looking at differences in the different models and years to come up with this model #. The problem has been that I haven't been able to find a manual for that model for the 2011 year. I'm thinking that any 2011 manual for the 500 would do because as others and you have stated the main difference is the cosmedic parts and some of the 500's had power steering which mine doesn't. As far as the muffler and pipe. I looked at the parts listing on partzilla and it's confusing at best for me any way. If you look at the pic you see the exhaust pipe and the connector. They are two different parts. But when I look at what I have got in front of me I see the pipe and on the end there is a medal stub sticking out about maybe 3". I started to order the connector just to see what I would end up with but haven't done it yet. You mention a thick walled sleeve and I'm wondering if that just fits over this stub I see and it just doesn't show the stub in the parts list? That would make sence because yesterday I found some aluminum tape that I wrapped around this stub to shim it out a little and it did help to stop the leak but it still has a small leak. I'm going to order that part and hopefully it will fit on the stub and solve this problem. I understand how misleading some parts lookup books can be because I worked on boat motors for 30 years and I know you have to have a lot of imagination sometimes when looking at those drawings.😕

I'll check the filter later today. The only manual I could find that was close was the 2009, 450X. I went to a suzuki dealer to get one but I just couldn't see me paying $160.00 for one. I guess you could call me a cheap scape. Most of the stuff is the same, plastics, suspension seems the same, drivetrane, brake system all I could find that was different was the engine for obvious reasons and some wiring. I never could get an answer on how many changes they may have made to the engine, like ign, fuel system and a few other things. from 2009 and 2011. I did find the exhaust leak. The connection between the header pipe and the muffler. It will not tighten and someone shimed the connection with muffler tape I guess just to get by so they could sell it. The tape fell out and thus it started leaking. It's a slip fit there and the clamp that is spot welded to hold it in place just will tighten enough to make a secure fit. In fact, once I unbolted the muffler it just fell out and the clamp was as tight as it would go. I don't know if that clamp has stretched to it's limit or if the connector itself has worn enough to where it won't tighten up. Then, I guess someone could have put the wrong muffler pipe on it that is a little larger. I have been looking for an automobil muffler clamp but can't find one small enough.

Thanks, I haven't had the time to mess with it for awhile but I want to get it running right before hunting season. When I get the time I'll pull some of the covers off and go over the basics. Lean mixture? doesn't the ECM control all that. I haven't been able to find a service manual for this ATV. I downloaded several but they turned out to be the wrong ones. The closest one I found is a 2009, 450 AXI and that's been close enough up til now. I looked at where it is leaking and I can see that someone has wraped muffler tape around that area and it has come loose. When I first got the bike I didn't hear any leaks and it is strange that the cough/spit thing shows up about the same time I noticed the leak. As far as the muffler being stoped up I guess that is a possibility but when I first got it I was looking at it because it was a tad bit loud for my taste and I could tell it was passing gas because I could feel it. Though I guess it could be partially stopped up but if it was stopped up I would think it would be boggy and hardly run. This thing has plenty of power and aside from the little spit every now again it takes off from a dead stop to WOT with no hesitation. Also when you give it gas and while it is excellerating you don't get these miss/cough/spit it just goes. I only notice it when you are just moving along at a set speed.

Yeah me too but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. Cough, Sounds somewhat like a cough I guess and yes I think maybe it's spitting back up through the intake. It's fuel injected I don't even think they had a carb 500 in 2011. It's random on the cough but it does it pretty much all through the RPM range.

When I bought this ATV I noticed a slight miss between mid and high speed. Now I notice it has developed a bad cough as well as the miss. At first it was mainly when you first started, the cough that is, now even after the bike is warm. I also notice that I have an exhaust leak right behind the motor is it possible the leak and cough are related? I haven't pulled any of the plastic off yet I was just wondering what to look for once I do as it will be a big pain when I do.

Thanks again........I spent some more time yesterday trying to get a pic to come out right and I think I finally got one that you can make out the first digit. It looks like a 5 to me. I'll try and put up a couple pics then maybe you will see something different. As my handle implies I really am an old dude.........well maybe not that old, just a tad under 76 and my seeing ain't as good as it used to be.😃 Kinda makes me wonder how a old fart like me would want to even ride an ATV anymore. I'm going to try and post a couple pics of the bike when I first unloaded it and maybe you will see something that will pop out that will help solve this mystery. There are a couple other things I want to adress like why this thing is so cold natured and it has a miss or two or I should say a bogg when I give it throttle past mid point.I goes pretty good once it warms up all accept that boggy cough it does every now and again. but I'll do a different post for that. Thanks again

I'll look at the SN again. I'm pretty sure it's a 5 but I'll look again. It's really hard to see the first letters because the bottom radiator hose is covering it up and where it is at you can't move it over to see. I tried to snap a pic of it but I can never get the first one or two to pop out because of the way you have to hold the camera it makes everything distorted. Maybe I'll try another camera and have a little better luck On one of those decode sites I looked at it came up as a AT- 500.. Another one came up as a LT-A 500 or LT-A 500xCL/LT or A 500XL I'm not sure how all that works out because I haven't been able to figure out what all those extra letters really mean. On one of those sites it came up as a LT- 500 XRI and that strangely enough is what that one sticker that is on the L side of the bike says. But the guy was so sure that sticker was just put on there for the fun of it. Of course he was really sure it was a 400 also. Once I finslly figure out what I have there are a few things I want to fix most of the plastic parts are a mess. All of the front plastic pieces are so banged up it would be really hard to tell what they originally looked like. The first guy must have been pretty hard on it. All the underside protector pieces are gone, the front fender has a big hole cut into it where he had put a snorkel kit on it and all the other smaller pieces of plastic don't fit together like they should because I guess the mount holes don't line up right. Most of the plastic on the bike is wire tied together rather than with the hardware that it came with. I'll have to say this, the guy was good. The way he had it wire tied together looked pretty good, all the pieces came together pretty much where they should and it looked fairly good. I made the mistake of buying a bag of the the plastic attaching clips and pins that hold the plastic together, thinking I could get it to look a little better but once I cut the left side parts off to reattach them nothing lined up and now it looks worst than it did to start with. I probably will replace the front and side pieces later on once I finally figure out what I have. The rear pieces is in fairly good shape accept for the under fender pieces so I'll probably leave that as it is. I also would like to get the under protector pieces put back on too. I hate buying something like that because once you get it, it's yours wether it fits or not. AS I said I don't really know what all those X's, LT's, TA's mean so I really don't know what to look for when looking up parts. I'll try and get a little better pic of the SN today then maybe we can narrow it down a little closer. I really appreciate you hanging in there with me on this. Folks like you are what makes sites like these a fun place to go for answeras. Thnks!!!

I posted a responce to this yesterday but I guess for some reason it didn't make it across the air ways.😬 I found a site that had all the different models specs for the years 2008 through 2012. From what I could gather from that is I can for sure rule out the 400. In 2010 the 400 did go to fuel injection but it kept the rear drum brake setup. Also it kept the rear swing arm type suspension. The 500 from the years 08 and 09 came only with power steering. the 450 limited did share pretty much all of the stuff the 500 did, about the only difference I could see was the 450 had a displacement of 454 cm3 and the 500 was 493 cm3. One thing though, the 09/2010 model year was the last year of production for the 450. I'm not sure if there were any difference in the plastic parts I didn't get that far. Also I do remember somewhere I read about the 9th didgit always being a 3. Then as the internet goes, I also read that it was not always the case. I've looked at many, many different SN's on different sites and actually, most of them were not marked with a 3. I wont say for sure one way or not, all I can say is that the number stamped on my frame for sure is an 8. I found what I think is the engine SN but I looked high and low for a way to tell what all those numbers meant but I could find no way to decode it, The number that I think is the engin SN is, M413-106595. I had looked at that number several times before but didn't know if that was the right number or not, maybe it is, maybe it isn't but it's where everybody said it should be. Only other thing I see as maybe different with the 450 and the 500, the 450 clutch is listed as Automatic and the 500 clutch is listed as Automatic (CVT) weather thats a difference or not I have no clue. Oh, one other thing, looking around I see that the 10th digit is the date code and from what I see the B letter is for 2011. But that could be like the 3 thing..........I don't know anymore.

Well that's' exactly what I did, (take a picture that is) and the ninth digit that is stamped is an 8. I found a thread on this site with several different decoders that I used. every one of them accept the first one came back a 2011 500. The first one came up no records found. I've looked on the base of the motor and can't find anything with a cc number. I guess it could be on the backside somewhere that I can't see. Also if I read what you said right about the 8 should be a 3......then there would be no 8 to equal 2008. I have the 06 - 09 450 limited manual but that don't tell me any more than I already know. I guess the only way to really tell is to pull the head off and measure the cylinder bore.

Some times I have a hard time explaning things I guess. I'm not sure what posting the SN would do because I have checked it on 5 or 6 sites already. Sadly the same model never came up more than once but the year always came up a 2011. But just for grins I'll post it up to see what you come up with, 5SAAM46A8B7100795. The first one I bought was because that's what the guy I got it from said it was. The second one I bought once I found out the first was no good simply because Of the fuel system and also the braking system. The third one I bought because someone checked the sn and told me I needed the last one I bought. All this time I had been looking for the SN that was stamped on the frame. Ask a question on the internet and it might surprise you just how many different answers you come up with. I was told it was on the back left, someone said it was on the right side by the foot rest, Another person said it was under the bike on the cross member where the motor mount is. All the bikes I ever had both, yamaha and suzuki the number was stamped on the front left either on the steering tube or a cross member next to the front left shock. The last place is where I finally found it. I pressure washed that thing three times before enough of the caked on mud finally was washed away and with the light just right and with the stars lined up just right there it was. Once I found that and checked it now I think it's a 2011 500 XRI. That's a pretty large span between a 2006 400 and a 2011 500. The funny thing is that there is a 500XRI sticker on the right side of the bike. I asked the guy about it three times and he just said the last guy put that on there just for the heck of it because he had it laying around. There was a 450 in 06 that had FI and the rear brake was the same as mine so I figured it was the 450 rather than what I had so I got that one. I was stuck on the 2006 thing because the guy was so sure that is what the other guy told him it was. But he also was sure it was a 400 too. Also, he said the guy had rebuilt the engine just before he got it. Just another reason I was sure too that it was what he said it was. How could you rebuild a 2011 500 Fi engine thinking it was a 2006 400 carb engine? I've looked around for a 09 through 2011 manual but haven't been able to come across one. There are plenty for up to 09 but after that they are few and far inbetween. Maybe that's why the last guy told me the 09 manual is the one I needed because that was all I was going to get. The dealer close by wants $245.00 for one and I'm just not going to go that way, I'll sell the thing before I do that.

I found the frame number awhile back and according Auto Check vin decoder that number comes up a 2011 Suzuki King Quad 500 AXI 4x4. The site Vin Search came back with no records found. Vin Audit says it's a 2011 LT-A500 X/LT. I'm not sure exactly what all those numbers and letters mean but I'm sure they mean that the bike is not a 2006 A 400 LT like the guy I bought it from said it was. I ordered a manual for the 400 LT and right off I knew that there was something wrong because the 2006, 400 LT is a carborated engine and the bike I had was a FI engine. A little more searching I found that suzuki had a 450 XLT that was FI a little later on in the year 2006 so I bought that manual but now after checking the Vin Number that is the wrong manule also. A guy on a site somewhere told me about another manual that he was sure to be the right one but that was the wrong one also. That manual was for a carb engine also. I didn't find the serial number plate until after I had bought those three manules. That 450 XLT manual shows a lot of the same stuff as the bike I have but it is for 06-09 models and I'm sure there are a lot of changes from a 2006 - 2009, 450, and a 2011, 500. I've looked all over and I can't seem to find a manual for this 2011 500 XRI that I'm now sure I have. I guess I was hoping someone here might have that same bike who had a manual they didn't mind sharing. Probably to much to ask for but it was worth the try.😀

As I have posted before I just bought a King Quad that I thought was a 2006 400 but it s turned into a 2011 500 xri. I've bought several service manuals and I don't have the right one yet. I wonder if someone could tell me if the latest one I bought would be anywhere in the ballpark for the ATV I have. That one was for 06 - 09 450 xr. What I need is wiring diagrams for my bike. I was riding last weekend and I noticed that the bike seemed to be getting pretty warm. I cleaned the radiator and checked the fluid level but all that was good. Then I thought about the fan motor and went to check that out and there is no wire at all going to it. There is a small rubber boot that looks like it may be where the wires go into the fan motor but as I said no wire. Looking closer at it I found another switch on the right side by the rear brake pedal that has no wires going to it either. I assume that switch works the rear brake light. I don't reall care about the brake light but I do want to get that fan working. It's hard to see anything on this thing without taking a bunch of plastic off. I need to find the temp switch on the motor and see if there is anything going to that also. I don't mind buying another service manual but this time I want to get the right one I already have close to $75.00 in manuals now but I don't mind taking another wack at it this time hopefully I can get the right one.