n4cer26

Pretty hard to beat this winch for the money.  Has a wireless remote the size of a key fob.  Can mount it anywhere for plowing and can also take it off to use off the quad.  I have two and they work perfectly.  It's a very good product at Harbor Freight!

From the manual posted it said the bleed screw was at the top of the cylinder head.

Good one.
I'm glad someone in here bothers to test and diagnose things before buying parts !

If there is a bleed screw it will be in the highest point on the engine's cooling passages.
I looked for the thermo opening but in the several manuals I looked in they didn't quote a figure. I did notice the fan on temp is a bit lower than I suggested it will be.
The manuals all said that there is a small bleed hole in the radiator filler neck and to check it's not blocked. There's a bigger hole going to the overflow pipe, and then straight below that, below where the cap seals, on a tube going down, there is a small hole.

Check this out. Free manuals are online. Hope this helps.

Not sure! Im not that familiar with these older Polaris engines, but check around where the hose and water pump connect and follow the cooling chamber, I know you can't really know exactly , but somewhere in the vicinity of how you think the cooling chamber might run and see if you see one. I will also see if I can find a manual and take a look also.

Good job getting the seals in with no problem! It sounds like you may have an air pocket inside the cooling chamber in your engine, there should be a rogue screw that looks like it does nothing on the engine, screw it out until coolant starts coming out and close it back, then you have bleed all the air in the system out. It's also possible you could have air in the radiator also, it will eventually work itself out run it a little with the cap off, and sure its possible the thermostat stuck from getting dry after being in coolant so many years.

Just finished replacing water pump seals and impeller on my 97 Magnum 425 due to oil leak out of the weep hole. Haven't owned it very long and have only riden around the yard a couple times because I only recently got it. I installed a new bullet aluminum impeller and made sure the nut was tight and that thebimpeller was not spinning on the shaft. My oil leak is now fixed.

I filled the radiator and let it run. The motor seemed to be getting hot and the radiator fan never came on. Looking into the radiator its hard to tell if the coolant is circulating due to the vibration of the quad. Never looked down the radiator prior to pump rebuild so not sure how it compares now.

Think it could be a bad thermostat or air in the system? Is there a refill procedure? Any advise is appreciated!

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No trouble..  The site needed it..

Good luck! Let us know how it works out.

Ok..  It's there and just needs approval.

I think I can get one but is it a 4x4 or 6x6.. or do you have any other model designations for it ?
Or 2x4..  there are lots of variations I see.

Anyone have it on PDF they can send?

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The weep hole is for water to come out when the pump is failing, if you have oil coming out of that hole I would just replace the water pump, but that's just me , I don't mess around with water leaks or battery problems I just replace the affected parts before they put me down.

I found an old post online,I've never done it but sounds simple will try to post it

I found an old post online,I've never done it but sounds simple will try to post it

I chased down the leak on my 97 Magnum 425. I have a nice leak coming from the water pump weep hole. I am being told the oil seal inside the pump needs to be replaced. Can anyone tell me what is involved in the repair. Can it be done without pulling the motor? Thank you!

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Thanks for all the time, research and help! Much appreciated! Saved a bundle I'm sure!

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Thanks! I can only think that once I corrected the spring on the decompression lever it made a difference.

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Got it running!

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Sorry, I forgot to answer that question Mech. Yes, it turned a little easier with the spark plug a little loose.

I also realized that during the rebuild, someone put the decompression spri g on wrong and it was holding the wrong side of the metal piece against the dowel. I corrected that. The motor still turned hard.

Also discovered that the fuel pump is garbage. I bypassed it and ran directly from tank. I put it back together and hit the starter......it fired right up and idled. Go figure!

Took it for a test drive and it has gobs of power. 6x6 works so I'm almost there.

I do have an oil leak to chase down.

Thanks for hanging with through this......certainly was different!

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Ok.......figured out that the spring for the decompression was on so that the opposite side of that metal piece was against the dowel. It shouldn't have made any difference when starting, o ly when running. I corrected it. Also discovered that the fuel pump is not working so it wasn't getting any gas at all. I bypassed it direct to carb. I hit the starter and it fired right up and idled. Took it for a test drive and it runs great. Go figure??! I do have an oil leak somewhere though. Will have to sort that out.

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I've looked in a couple of books and they seem to expect no more than 90lbs if the decomp is working right..
You still haven't confirmed that it will turn over if you leave the plug slightly loose and turn it slow enough for the compression to escape..  That will prove it's only compression and not anythng mechanical.

The engine was rebuilt a couple years ago and I can tell that is true by having gone through as much as I have so far. Looking at the loabes of cam through the rockers....they are pristine. Going to watch the ball bearing today to see if there is any movement in the decompression ball bearing when I that metal piece away from the dowel.
I am not sure what the max compression should be.......can't find it anywhere.

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Just bought a non-running 425 Magnum 6x6. Guy said previous owner had motor rebuilt (3 years ago or so.) It reportedly ran great but recently the electric start began failing and he put a new recoil on it which he broke immediately.

I get it home and put a new recoil on it and the pull is incredibly hard....so much so that I think I'm going to break the new recoil assembly. I also installed a new starter which won't roll it over either.

I'm thinking maybe a hydro-locked situation so I pull the plug and the motor rolls over fine with both pull start and electric start. The cylinder was dry however.

Checked the valve lash and it was right on at .0006".

Checked the compression relief spring on the end of the cam and the spring was strong and keeps the metal piece against the dowel like it should. The cam lobes look good from what I can see.

I have a small camera that I dropped into the cylinder. Could t get a pic of the entire chamber because of the angled engine but there are marks on the center piston and a couple of grooves once side of the piston top. I will include the photo.

Anyway....I'm at a total loss at this point. Not sure how to proceed and diagnose. Would sure appreciate anyone's help who might know what the heck is going on! I was able to get it to turn over about 5 times with electric start with compression tester installed which read 145 lbs. I don't know what else to do!

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