jscarter32

After a carb change, she runs like a top!

If i pushed down on the needle hard enough it would seal but seems to 'pop-up' just enough to let air thru when not pressed hard.  I believe it was the wire which connects to the float was causing it not to go down far enough.  Keeping the original carb and may get a better needle set to put in it rather than an amazon one.  main goal was to get it running by the weekend so that got accomplished.

Still no luck with the new needle, ended up putting on new aftermarket carb and it is up and running without issue. not bad for a bit over 3 bills and a week of trial and error troubleshooting.  Wife now has her own.

Next step to try is to remove the float clip from the needle and see if it will seat down further without it.  but that is for tomorrow.

when holding down the float it still leaks.  if i press on the needle with a screwdriver, i can get it to seat and not leak.  but thats putting some good pressure on it.

Its a 2002 400.  new seat did have a new o-ring.  when i cover the seat needle opening with my finger, i cant blow thru it so it seems sealed around the seat.  when i put the needle in and hold the carb upside down, i still hear a leak when i gently blow on it.  Seems the clip sits on the carb body and im wondering if its causing the needle to not go deep enough to seal.

so, does the whole needle suppose to slide when it gets engaged?  not just the pin on the top...

Ordered an aftermarket one with good reviews from amazon, to be here tomorrow, but would rather get this original working correctly.

Cleaned it best i could, replace the float needle and seat, got it running but is leaking from overflow tube now (was leaking around the bowl so new gasket fixed that part).  Can take it apart pretty quickly now, so now to check the float level and double check to make sure it isn't sticking.

So this is what happens when a atv sits for many many years..  TIme for a good cleaning.  At least the tank looks pretty clean inside and petcock is working now after a good flush.

Looks like there is a manual for the 2002 Kodiak 400 in the downloads.  Going to grab that one and check it out.

No Problem, Actually did it on my VRod rims after I spent a week sanding, polishing and buffing them.  Makes a big difference.

2 hours ago, Mech said:

I've got a manual that says it does both models, the Bb and the kodiak.

It's best to get the full model designation, like Yfm400As.. 

Look here.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004

There are always lots of differences.. Small differences but they become critical when you are working with the electricals in particular, or carbs..

Thanks,

I had that site bookmarked already with the nice exploded views of everything.

I picked up a 2002 Kodiak 400 this past weekend that hasn't ran for some time.  Was an older lady who had it and she said there was a fuel leak and they stopped riding it and didn't know how to fix it.  $250 later and its in my garage now.   Looks like new other then they had the tank cover unbolted.

10 comments doesn't seem too bad, but when your looking for content to help with issues, you are more likely to be reading info you don't know than posting info (since you don't know).  getting closer to 10! haha

Anyone know if the 2002 Big Bear 400 manual the same for the Kodiak?

if you haven't already, a quick coat of clear coat will help protect them some and make cleaning them easier.

This will be the third one in 4 months, but the first one that wasn't running. The other 2 are suzukis.  Guess a nice size pole barn will have to move up the to do list. 

bought 10 acres of wooded land.. first purchase was 2 older ATVs.

Greetings all, The bug has gotten me and just bought a 2002 non-running Yamaha Kodiak 400.  Hoping to find info here to get her running again!