Caseknife

Polaris has pigtail repair harnesses for a lot of sensors etc, but not for the switch blocks on the handlebars.

43 minutes ago, Sonders said:

ok, so I was right thinking it was something with the TPS.  Crap.  Well thanks for confirming guys.  I'll start researching how to reset it.  

What you can do short of taking it to a dealer it loosen the screws on the tps so you can just barely move the sensor and while it is running adjust it bit by bit.  It is feeding the ecu with throttle opening data and will change how the machine is running.  A lot of times if the exhaust is making your eyes water, running too rich, it is a tps setting.  Another thing is not to adjust the idle screw in the throttle body, that is set at the factory and Polaris says to chuck the throttle body if it has been adjusted.  There are ways around that but you need the tps tool to get there.  I have found on the older machines even if the tps is set correctly and the machine still has idle issues, the throttle body is worn out and needs replaced.  Typically this happens with the 700 and 800 Rangers.

It has a built in voltage regulator and would be a bit hard to replicate.

Replaced a started drive in a Polaris Sportsman 500 once, then discovered that the owner had replaced the battery and hooked it up backwards, swapped the cables and it started right up.

9 hours ago, Mech said:

I got the impression that the special tool is just a connector plug with some wires and a nine volt battery. All it's doing is measuring the resistance across the throttle position sensor using a nine volt battery as a reference instead of an ohms reading.

If I get a chance, I will try to trace the wiring in the tool and see exactly what is what.  I just use it, haven't thought if it would be able to be duplicated.

On 6/15/2023 at 3:44 PM, cj138 said:

I tried looking for the FAV manual. All I see are FAT and FAR.

All you need to get the correct manual is the year and YFM450.  The FAV, FAT etc is only needed when ordering model specific parts such as the correct decals, body panels etc.  That is just the model designation differentiating between color etc.  A lot of times the year is not critical either if the model hasn't changed from year to year other than body color and options.

Agree you are way better off to rebuild the factory carb rather than get a Chinese replacement.  Have ran into numerous issues with aftermarket carbs, wrong jetting, not correct porting, inlet seat not replaceable, and the list goes on.  I always ask if the original carb is in a box at home and to bring it along.  You would think that if the price is too good to be true, $45 as opposed to $400, a few red flags would be raised.  I always recommend the use of non-ethanol fuel in carbed machines.  Doesn't seem to affect injected machines as bad.  

Should not have removed the TPS from the throttle body to remove it.  Will have to be reset with with a special tool and volt meter.  They are very sensitive.