puskinelis

On 1/9/2024 at 3:09 AM, Gwbarm said:

I have also used these, been perfect so far

 

I was looking for these Brake caliper set but couldn't find now it's 50$ :DD

1 hour ago, Krazo said:

Impressive.  i like the diy.  turned out my issue was the ECM.  no way for me to DIY that one.  I paid $450 on ebay for a nib and it was plug n play.  Dealer wanted like $800 for part and labor.  crazy.

My bought grizzly has issue with starting and working itself, so I have accidentaly found exact CDI (ECU) for 30$ on Ali which is a joke. If conventional method like rewiring will not work, I will try that for sure, as OEM costs hundreds. 

9 minutes ago, Mech said:

Modern car engine's have minimum amounts of oil in their sump, extreme temperatures in the engine and under the bonnet, especially if they have a turbo, they have incredibly fine clearances everywhere, shell bearings, high stresses, require high oil pressures from cold to hot, and they rev high, and from cold often. They also have stringent emission requirements.  They need good oil, and synthetic oils are particularly good with the high temperatures.

Bikes on the other hand, even air cooled bikes, are low temperatures, low stress, roller bearings, mild power, low oil pressure, generous oil capacity, few emission requirements. They have very simple and low spec requirements for their oil compared to car or truck oil. In my opinion mineral oil is plenty adequate for them.

I agree. Especially modern engines with EGR system are contaminated after a few hundred of km or miles. But engines which doesn't have EGR like bike engines are always clean brown even after thousands of kilometeres. But! I wouldn't agree that bikes do not need synthetic, because with the car you usually drive with no rush, on low RPM so engine and oil doesn't stress and degrade. With the bike you go full throttle and then stop, full throttle and then stop, it's play thing. Also you don't change engine oil so often so longetivity of synthetic wins there again.

On 2/26/2024 at 7:41 PM, rmundell said:

Once i get the Bruin 350 repaired, taking it to Rocky Point Mexico to be able to explore the dunes near cholla bay!

Would love to travel in Mexico as it has jungles, dunes and mudpit all in one. Is your bruin oil cooled aren't you afraid it will overheat ? As I bought grizzly 350 and thinking how it will keep up with my racing pace on summer

I wouldn't experiment with different specs way off, but minima difference might improve. I would recommend use fully synthetic instead of Half-synthetic that will help for sure. Mine oldy moldy honda foreman 450 OEM recommendation 10w40 half synthetic, but I use fully synthetic, I think it's especially good for this bike for example as it uses oil cooler. And it heats up and cools down every second trhough cooler, which synthetic oil doesn't loose it's spec, but half synthetic might burn or downgrade a little more.

Check out this chart for example https://www.atvwheelsize.com/tech/atv-wheel-size-explained.html You can check what size tire you can buy for this wheel 

On 3/2/2024 at 3:21 AM, p5200 said:

Good deal, now I can go ahead and remove the races and have that much done.  I didn't want to knock them out without having new ones to put back in. The kit is suppose to be here Tuesday. I think the sprocket hub is suppose to be here around the middle of the week also. Thanks for the confirmation! 👍

Just my 2 cents,I fully rebuild my 450 foreman. Also rebuilding yamaha grizzly 350 and had 2x others hand all theese need smaller rebuild, but 80 % of repair is needed on older quads are chassis. And I bought various brand parts, and guaranteed to fit and be reliable are Prox, Winderosa, EPI parts, all balls are sh** except cv axle boots. I buy OEM only if I can find them or they are the same price or slightly differs from NON-OEM. Good luck !

Power steering is always for the win if you have option. Especially if you have bigger tires and you need to tinkle winkle steering wheel in the mud  I would take Suzuki there as it has a better looking and basically everything is the same on the mechanical side. BUT I don't like Suzuki Plastic racks like Polaris have.

If OEM wouldn't be so expensive I wouldn't try chinese or non OEM. But I saw a lot of success with chinese ones and people claim they work really well. Also rebuild kit is best as you still have original carb structure.

Use manufacturer catalog and find your carb OEM parts number and then search for non OEM version by this same number, and compare photos of your OEM one and non-OEM. New carb prices are insane which no one want to spend. I also like to use non OEM Carb rebuild kits they are really proper made

On 2/29/2024 at 7:24 AM, opnea said:

I second this, a salvage lot/website for just quads would be nice. 

Salvaged ok. But plastic, rubber , hoses, bushines seals is prone to harden and gett cracked over time and it's about half of the quad parts. So recommend buying parts from OEM, or for cheaper known brands Prox, EPI, Winderosa and others. Sometimes Non OEM parts are 5x cheaper than OEM and quality is really similar.