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toolman0114

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Posts posted by toolman0114

  1. bOY, i WOULD NOT SPEND $600 FOR A NEW CARB...Ebay has several I believe for far less than that.

    I am no expert by any means but if it were me, I think I would pull the carb and go through the rebuild steps just to make sure I did not mess up somewhere and that everything is where it should be and clean.

    PIA I know but it will give you peace of mind that you did it correctly or you'll find an issue.

    I am kind of on the fence when it comes to a replacement or not of the jets and hard parts in a carb when rebuilding. Floats, seals, needle valve sure.

    You could put that original jet back in a see what you get.

    I was thinking if pulling and putting the original jets back in it and go from there. I'm wishing now that I didn't touch it, but it ran like crap in mid-range. Should just tried cleaning it.

    Oh well, live & learn, crash & burn

  2. Ok, it was warmer out thus morning, about 36 F, started right up.

    Never had this issue before I rebuilt the carb. My problem was mid-range. I cured my problem, but caused a major one.

    Is there nobody out here that can help me?

    Seems to be something in the pilot circuit. Could it be the pilot valve (the long pin that slides up/down by the cable) is in the wrong notch. Should I try moving the clip up one notch to drop the pin & lean it out?

    Should I change the pilot jet back to the old one?

    Should I spend $600 and by a new carb? Or pay $85/hr to have it all redone.

  3. Maybe fuel petcock needs a good cleaning.

    Have you tested that? Pull fuel line off carb and place in a plastic water bottle then turn petcock on to make sure you have a nice flow of fuel.

    If its not steady flow...might need cleaning or replacing.

    Thanx.

    Tried that and it's good. Definitely has something to do with the rebuild kit I used.

    It was a Shindy kit, package said 89-92 Big Bear but the guy where I ordered it told me would work for my 88. I'm thinking different jet size. Guess I'll have to pay $85/hr for a shop to fix it.

    I've never had luck rebuilding carbs.

  4. I just put a carb rebuild kit in my Big Bear 350 and it seemed to start fine. Today I take it hunting and its hard to start. Lots of spark, turns over fine. It fires and stalls, then while trying to start it again it floods.

    I pull the plug and its soaked.

    Only way I can start it (cold) is to spray the plug with quick start and reinstall it. When it fires I bring up the Rpms until it warms up, then it's fine. Sometime I have to pull/spray the plug 2-3 times before it will stay running.

    I need help quickly or it will be a long week.

    BTW the screw is out 2 1/4 turns

  5. I took my 1988 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 out for a ride today and it started to miss fire, it starts great, sounds great at idle, but at high RPM it starts to miss fire.

    I want to change the spark plug first, can somebody recommend a plug? What would be the best plug to put in it? I was thinking an NGK DR8EIX

    Does anybody have the procedure to adjust the carb?

    what should I check if it isnt the plug??

  6. I FOUND IT! I FOUND IT!!

    I pulled the front plastics off again and started giggling the wires one harness at a time, what I found was when I shook the leads going to the key switch it fired, then died. I shook it again and it started, briefly. The bottom plate on the key switch is held onto the main part by 3 locking tabs, the plastic was so dry and brittle that one tab was missing, and the main body was cracked. I pushed it together and hot glued it in place and it starts/runs great. I ordered a new key switch. Thanx for all the help and advice.

    This is by far the most helpfull board on the internet.

  7. Check the kill switch and the wire going from the kill switch to the terminal board. because it kills the spark to shut down the engine.

    I see the wires coming from the kill switch, it goes to a 3 prong plug, from there I can't find where it goes. where is the terminal board located? if i pull that wire off the terminal board will that elimanate the kill switch from the equation?

    how about this:

    from what my wiring diagram shows the kill switch has a black & a Black/white wire. the black goes to ground the B/W goes to the cdi unit. Am I correct to assume the kill switch grounds out the system much the same as a lawnmower grounds out the spark plug to stop it?

    If I were to cut the B/W wire where it comes from the kill switch would that eliminate the kill switch? I could always solder it back together.

  8. No I'm really confused.

    I tore off the front plastics to check connections, still nothing.

    Went out a couple days later to show a buddy who stopped by, and it started right up.

    The next day I put the plastics back on but didn't have time to finish, it ran when I was done for the day.

    The next day I finished putting it back together, and again it wouldn't start. I reached under the front plactics and giggled the wires and it started, I drove it around the yard and it died. I again giggled the wires and it started and ran, then it died and I haven't been able to get it running.

    any suggestions? could it be a loose or broken wire, or could it still be the stator/pick-up.

    :aargh::aargh::aargh::aargh::aargh::aargh:

  9. About 2 months ago I took drove my big bear from the garage and parked it in the shed, no problems. I started and ran great.

    Today i tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. i pulled the plug and put it nxt to the cyinder and ther was no spark. I put a screwdriver in place of the plug, in case it was a bad plug, and same thing, nothing.

    I checked the 30 amp fuse but no idea what to check next, or how to check it. I highly doubt it's the CDI box, or stator, I don't believe they would just die like that.

    Any suggestions????

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