cavry

Cranked engine and towed it with my ReconES to have clutch working and rear wheels moving too.  While running and moving it shifted up through the gears fine. Shifting down was tricky as the pedal would not return to center and had to be lifted with my toe two or three times to make the next downshift. Shifting down from 5th, 4th and 3rd was relatively easy, 2nd and 1st were a trial. I'm thinking the Stopper Arm Return Spring is broken. I'll open that cover this evening. 

Oil was drained and there were about 4 to 5 oz. of water in the crankcase but no sign of mixing with the oil. I put about 2 qts. of diesel into the crankcase and pulled the engine over by hand 20+ times and then drained that. Then I changed the filter and refilled with fresh oil.

O3 sat a while. Engine is running fine. I got it into neutral, did some general tune-up and cleaning then pulled the shifter pedal up and it locked up and will not release into neutral again.  Does anyone have experience with this problem?  Thanks for looking and any help.

Cavry

After more research i have decided not to use dyneema.  The necessity of washing it often after use, watching for small chips of dirt, or rocks watchins for cut strands of fiber and the cost of replacing it if damaged make this seem to be HIGH maintenance and unaffordable for my use.

Has anyone changed the steel cable on a 1500 lb. winch to dyneema?  Was this a positive move?  I live in the mountains of Ga. near the Ga/NC line.  There is lots of rocky ground, rough creeks and gullies, and too much red clay. I've used the steel multiple times (a couple of those I needed my doubling block) with no negative outcomes.  Anyway, are there benefits to Dyneema? What is the working life? Does the cost justify the effort to change?,

Thanks to all.  The '02 Bayou300B is up and running well. I still need to rebundle the wiring. Headlights are working now. I did go ahead and install a new solenoid while I had the body panels off. I also rebuilt the front brake master cylinder.  As soon as I get it cleaned up and buttoned up I'll get a few pics posted.  Again, thanks to all.

Cavry

New OEM switch in place and starter is working well. Headlights are dead.  I'll get to that tomorrow.  Brakes and master cylinder are next.

Yep, it sat outside for years. It's been "down" for at least 5 years.

I'll be using gasket seal or silicone when I put it on the handlebar.

Solenoid is fine.  Start, kill, and headlight switch is badly rough inside. Copper contacts are black, metal retainer plates are rusted.  A new switch has already been ordered.

I finally got to the wiring today.  The Bayou will start easily. I now have to find a dirty or bad connection or check the start button. The solenoid works fine. It fires 3 or 4 times and then will not start unless I jump it straight to the starter post.  The critical thing is that it starts and runs well when it does.  

Again Mech, thank you for your help.

This is much clearer and understandable than the diagram I found.  Again, Thank You. 

Cavry

I'll try that in a few minutes.  That still leaves the heavy brown wire.  Thank You.

Wiring shows White and Brown to solenoid blades. Then a black wire from starter circuit relay to solenoid. I am confused,  where is that black wire supposed to connect?

Thanks for any help

Cavry

Sorry for my confused answer.  Yes, the Chinese one has the warmer. My KLF is not wired for it.  I can probably handle doing that.  This replacement has been perfect to this point.  Runs well at all speeds and idles like a champ. 

Yep, it has the warmer built in.  I'll have to wire it to use the warmer.   OEM was out of my price range when I need it.  That is a target project though.

Thanks for the input.

Cool mornings here  (high 50's -mid 60's).  The '02 300 Bayou has a replacement Chinese Carb that starts first or second hit at temps over 75 or so.  It wont start in the cool mornings.  Choke at any position, Throttle positions, turning over with the compression relief open a few turns, grinding for 20-30 secs, None helps.  Temp goes up, NO Problem.  Ideas?

I installed a new China made carb months ago. So far all is well.  This carb has a heater, while the original did notI never considered hooking it up.  Here in far N. Ga,  0 deg. is about the coldest it normally gets in a bad winter. Should I bother hooking the heater up and will it need a sensor or just an off/on toggle switch? Totally new subject to me.

Found these listed on E-by. 

.ebay.com/itm/Bevinsee-P15D-H6M-LED-Headlight-Bulb-For-Kawasaki-ATV-KLF220-300-KFX400-KVF300/192683220229

tecoparts

Bevinsee P15D H6M LED Headlight Bulb For Kawasaki ATV KLF220 300 KFX400 KVF300

I'm looking at replacing the headlamps on my 2001 KLF 300.  These LEDs are out of my experience range.  Supposedly they are "plug and play". 

What problems am I not aware of? Other controllers, ballast? 

Thanks, Cavry.

I over torqued the end bolt by a few lbs but that seems to have solved the problem.  NO problems lately.

Thanks for the input.

I was thinking along those lines. The roller bearing is fine.  I used a rubber mallet to seat the alternator before reassembling and then used a cross bar in the pull starter disc and torqued the end bolt to 60 ft/lbs this time.  Thankfully, timing hasn't slipped during any of the events.  Hoping this solves the problem.

Thanks for your input.

Cavry

I have replaced the Alternator keystock 3 times in several weeks. the engine cranks instantly, idles well and runs smoothly for 30or 40 starts. Then suddenly when I go start it again, it won't start  Each time the key has been sheared.  The replacement fits the shaft and alternator firmly and I have not noticed any backfires.  Ideas? Suggestions?

Cavry

OK, information I found on Utube says the Torque Limiter is like a one-way ratchet to prevent backfires from stripping the splines on the starter shaft.

Thank You!