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Newbie to this forum and to riding. Looking to buy my very first atv and I have a budget and prefer new since I don't want to buy someone else's junk. A place a couple if hours from me has some 2013 kymco wheelers on clearance to make room for 2014 models. So he has a 450i mxu 4x4 for $4,500. 450i maxxer 4x4 for $5k. And a 500i mxu 4x4 for $4,800. That's his OTD price I pay taxes and registration on my own.
Since this is my first wheeler I don't want to spend more that $5k and these have a 1 year warranty and I can extend it to 6 years for $850. The guy says these are just arctic cats for 20 percent less. According to him they have been making 500 and smaller atvs for arctic cat and Kawasaki for years now.
I'm really just going to use this to plow and do trail riding. Any experience with them?
Morning All, Wondering if anyone has had any success using aftermarket carburetors on the smaller ATVs? Picked up a couple Arctic Cat DVX90s over the weekend (2006 & 2008), and one of them has an aftermarket carb that needs to be replaced (it's missing the brass barb for the fuel line ). Both are the same Kymco power plant, but different frame/body.
I swapped carburetors between the machines to test opreation. Both ran great, and seem to manage the electronic choke properly.
Am I better off to buy the replacement carb from AC ($250), or try an aftermarket? Part of me wants a manual choke.....
Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
By tom reed
May be some of you guys can help me, I've got a 1990 honda four trax 2 wheel drive, the top end has been completely rebuilt. When I bought it barely ran, so I had everything redone BUT, it shifts good until the motor gets up to running temp and it starts getting hard to shift and the longer you run it the worse it gets, it will get so bad that it is almost impossible to get it into reverse. Does anyone know what wrong?
Hello guys! I ride a triton 450 super moto. i hawe change connecting road... Now all is okey,test drive ok manny km done. But there is one problem...i hawe buy a new accu. But the starter is verry hard rotate...almost stops. So the motor is wery hard to start. I hawe trie connect the starter directley to accu and its the same thing.Before rebuild the starter has work normal.
What hawe i done wrong?
Sorry for my English:)
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Hi, I have been using your info for a while thought I would say hi. From north west vermont. I have a 1999 350 Yamaha bigbear. It has been used,abused, and neglected. It still runs like a champ. I use it for hauling firewood logs and most anything I need moved. Now I am planning on touching it with some T.L.C. in hopes of getting another 15 years out of it.
Thank you for the volumes of information available.
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