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Hey folks, thanks for the add. I purchased a 2000 kodiak a few days ago. The seller claimed an electrical problem which he didnt care to investigate. I thought it was going to be easy...and initially i found a blown 10 amp ignition fuse, and a blown headlight fuse... changed them and tried to start, but when I turned the key to run, the N light came on for an instant and the fuse popped...I unplugged all other connections to the wiring harness I could find, kept the ignition harness hooked up and tried again...the fuse blew again...I then disconnected the outgoing harness from the CDI and this time the with the switch turned the neutral light comes on and I can enable the start switch and hit the starter button and the motor turns but does not actually start, i can also turn on the headlights and taillight in this configuration, however, when i hook up the out going side of the CDI, and turn the key, the fuse blows....HELP? any ideas to get her running? I have not removed the gas tank to look under it for frayed wires, but so far, no frayed wired. With the input side of the CDI plugged in, and all other wiring harnessed connected the starter will turn, but engine wont turn over. As soon as I plug in the outgoing (8 plug) harness into the CDI and turn the key, the fuse blows. Thanks! Gramps
So I bought a 2001 Quad Runner 250 for my son/wife. Sorry I run a Grizzly 660.
I’ve rode it many times with no issue.
My son’s first time out, I could always hear him but feeling he ran it red line in first gear a lot.
So this is what it was doing during/end of the 2-3 hour ride:
- halfway though noticed smoke (oil) coming from front of the motor sort of under exhaust manifold. Once back at the truck, it was really noticeable. Definitely oil burning off. I’m thinking from the top end maybe.
So quick inspection:
- No leaks or seepage of oil that I could see
- I pulled the plug and it’s black but not wet
- No blue/white smoke in exhaust
- seems to still ride fine
- Engine still has plenty of oil
But now that I’m looking at it back at the house - it’s a hard/won’t start when hot. It starts right up cold no problem but once it stalls when hot, have to let it sit for 10-15 before it will start again.
It wasn’t idling before that trip so I jacked up the idle a bit as well but I think that’s a carb clean/adjustment but...
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
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got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
got a big bear I'm working on for a guy and it was flooding gas out into the air box, but still running. I pulled the carb and its beat up just like his other bike I worked on for him (the bayou 220). Its a weird carb tho: the throttle comes in at two locations. it has a plunger and a butterfly. Is this necessary and could I just switch to a butterfly carb? The problem with it is it has a broken float fork (the metal piece that holds the float pivot in place. I'm assuming it is causing the flooding. also the rest of the carb is well worn out and most of the screws are stripped telling me that it has been fiddled with too much by someone who didnt know what they were doing. Also, the oil temp light is turns when key is turned and then goes off after a second- dont know if thats supposed to happen or not.
I have an Outlaw 110 that will struggle to turn the engine over. Jump starting doesn't help other than the battery will drain LONG before the bike eventually starts, so is required. If you keep messing with it long enough it will eventually magically begin to crank fine and sometimes finally start. Once we finally get the bike to start and warm it up thoroughly, it will turn over and start just fine the rest of the day like nothing ever happened... next day it won't turn over again. Internet research has found lots of people saying they replaced starters, starter clutch, wiring, etc. but with only about 50/50 success rate for their particular problems... and I never found anybody describing a problem like mine, so I'm looking for advice/experience. Would rather not just start blindly throwing parts at it. Does anybody have any thoughts/ideas?
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I have an 04 ltz and it started sputtering a little bit while going down the road and I was low on gas so I just figured that's what it was. But now I can't get it to start I completely cleaned the carberator put a new spark plug and coil pack in it and all it does is turn over. It has compression it's getting fuel and it is sparking but all it does is turn over any idea what it is??
Just signed up, as I've had a recurring problem, and need some help.
To start the bike I have to put the choke on all the way and 4 squeezes on the gas, Then as I push the start, I slow squeeze the throttle about half way for it to catch....If I miss it, then it will take 5 mins of slowly finding the sweetspot on the choke in unison with some throttle squeezes.
Then I have to to hold the throttle to keep the bike going, using the choke will stall it out. after about 3 mins of holding the throttle, I then can let it go, and it idles fine, and runs fine. If it sits for a few hours it's only slightly hard to start, but a few days of sitting, and it's a lot more work.
Had the bike serviced they couldn't figure it out. They swapped peticock, plug, new gas, all new lines, new throttle, and cable. Said the carb was fine, and clean. New air filter, said fuel pump was fine, no leaks around carb boots, new battery, new rectifier.
Ran some sea foam through it....Runs Great.....Just such a pain to start...
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