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About bradleyheathhays

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  • Birthday 04/07/1977

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  1. After I took the gauges off I noticed one of the schrader valves was hissing, and now the system is down to 0 psi. So I believe a faulty valve has been the culprit all along. Now that the system is down I'm going to replace both valves, but my regular schrader valve removal tool won't fit down on the valve. The stem of the valve is too long and the tool won't go down around it to twist it out. I need a tool with prongs longer to fit down into the recessed sides of the valve. Does this '11 Crown Vic have schrader valves or a different kind of valve? Also, when I go to fill the system with refrigerant, do I need to add any PEG oil or just add refrigerant up to the specified capacity?
  2. Hooked the gauges up and it seems like I've got a low refrigerant condition. Before turning the engine on both gauges read about 75. After starting the engine and setting the AC on max you could really tell the compressor was cycling fast. The needles cycled every 5-6 seconds...one going up and the other down, then reversed. The blue gauge cycled between 22 and 38 PSI while the red went between 90-140. The outside temp was about 60 F. From what I've read, especially with the compressor cycling so fast, this indicates low refrigerant. Hopefully my compressor isn't hurt by running it for so long like this. How do I go about using this 2 gauge setup to add refrigerant? Should I add it through the middle hose somehow or get a can of 134 with a gauge on it and just add it directly from the can? And how do you know how much to put in?
  3. I'm gonna assume my problem is being caused by low refrigerant and take a shot at fixing it as cheaply as I can. But at the same time I'd like to take steps at identifying where the leak might be. So what will this look like? Renting some gauges from the local car store and checking my refrigerant lines? How would you go about this and what readings should I be looking for? And then if things read low I would get a can of refrigerant with leak revealing dye and put it in the system? Sorry I'm so remedial here, first time working on an a/c system.
  4. Yeah the B stands for Boss yall. Haaaar. Sorry it's been so long since I posted. Life got complicated all the sudden. I'd guess the heater core too if the dang thing just hadn't gone bad a few months back and I changed it out in 20 deg weather, yeah. The fogging problem was going on before the core leak, it just happened to go as well. Now that it's gotten a little warmer I've ran the a/c a little and it's doing the same thing it did last summer. The air temp alternates between somewhat cool and not much cool, never getting down to cold. I would guess I'm looking at 2 problems here but if I could just get the a/c problem fixed I wouldn't mind just having the air come out the vents. Any ideas on how to start testing my a/c?
  5. Have a '11 Crown Vic with 290k miles and I've been having a problem with the windows fogging up all the way around. The defrost seems to be working about half the time. On humid rainy days it'll work for say a half hour keeping the windows clear, then the windows will fog hard for 10-15 mins. And then it might decide to start working again, back and forth it goes. When I started it just now the compressor clutch turns when the a/c is turned on, although I haven't had a chance to observe it when the windows are fogging. A secondary problem it has is that it only blows air through the vents on the front of the dash, straight out into the cabin. The air flows only very weak out the defrost vent at the windshield or the floor. It does this on all settings. Although this might contribute somewhat to the problem, it seems like the a/c does completely cut out as the windows will still fog hard with the a/c set to on and on full fan. When it cuts off the air in the cabin feels immediately humid. One that that helps somewhat is to turn the temp toward cooler and it seems to not fog as much and gives it a chance to maybe clear the fog some. Any idea what's causing this or what I should do to start testing?
  6. Bought an '11 Vic with the 4.6L back in June and a few months back I tried to change out the plugs. All came out ok except for cyl 4 which only cranked out 1/4 turn. Had a shop take it out and they said they had to redo the threads. I've seen videos where you can remove a stuck plug by drilling into it somehow, but because this was in the 4 position and hard to get to I'm guessing they just power cranked it out. Not sure but I'm guessing those threads are compromised now. Well, this past weekend that same plug blew out of cyl 4. Inspection reveals a coil and boot jammed up underneath the fuel rail and a plug that I fished out without any turning. When I go to install a new plug it just sits on top of the threads and turns without going in. So I guess what's happened is that the plug rotated most of the way out but when it got to the last couple threads the compression blew it out the rest of the way, and that it's just the top few threads in the hole that are damaged. Inspection of the plug reveals that most of the threads are intact except for the 2-3 that are closest to the element. So my question is...should I try to fix this myself or just take it to a shop? Some kind of tap tool would probably fix it, but since it's the beginning threads that are boogered it'd probably have to start from the inside of the cylinder. I really don't have a clue as to how to approach this.
  7. '11 Grizz 700 here. Since I've got some warm weather these next couple days I've decided to start the bike after about a year of just sitting. Took out the plug and sprayed a good amount of fogging oil on top of the piston to help lubricate things. After about a minute of letting it soak I stuck my air line tubing in to suck out the excess, but it seems like I didn't get nearly as much in return. Repositioned the tube enough so that everything that was gonna come out pretty much did. I'll probably shoot some compressed air down the plug hole before doing the start just to make sure it's all out, as well as cranking it for a second before putting the plug back in. How long would it take for a bit of standing fogging oil to seep past the piston rings, and where would it go? I guess into the engine oil? The oil was fairly new the last time it was started but I'm sure it could stand to be changed after sitting for so long. If much of this fogging oil got into the engine oil should I do the change before the startup?
  8. Thanks for all the advice. Doesn't have to look all that good really...just don't want it having the crappy rust look it's got going on now. I'll prob blast it, paint it then be done. What's that old saying, 'dones better than good'
  9. Sandblast and then cover with some black high temp spray paint?
  10. I'm about to sell the ole '11 700 Griz and I'd like to clean up the metal exhaust cover that's toward the front of the machine. Its got a lot of surface rust so I'm figuring the best thing to do is just sand blast it? Any other ideas or thoughts on cleaning it up?
  11. Someone had mentioned they thought Wilderness Trail Off Road Park was closed. Can anyone else confirm this?
  12. After some research, Wilderness Trail Off Road Park close to Pineville, KY paired with the nearby Pine Mtn. State Park looks like a pretty good deal. Only 119 miles away, no trail fees (saving ~$140), decent log cabins at the park for $90/night vs. $140 other places, saving $100. People there say they have easy trails leading up to great views, called 'top of the world.' And with zip lines and hiking in the park I don't see how you could go wrong. Maybe they'll be a space we can set up a tent outside the cabin. Anybody with experience with this area?
  13. 2011 Grizz 700 here and so far the only thing I've been told about replacing my coolant is that I should put the same color stuff back in that came out. But other than that nothing specific. A search through both the service or owner's manual gave no coolant info other than capacity. Here's a comparison of the old and the proposed new... The stuff on the left, what's coming out, is a blue-green. I'm second owner and only put about 75 miles on the machine, so I have no idea how old this coolant is. Stuff on the right is the new coolant the guy at the car shop suggested, and is more of a pure lighter translucent blue. It's Pentofrost NF, whatever that is. He said it's what's recommended for European, including BMWs. Here's the bottle... So... 1) have I found the right coolant? and 2) does this stuff need to be diluted? The bottle says it's 'full strength.'

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