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bradleyheathhays

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About bradleyheathhays

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  • Birthday 04/07/1977

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  1. So this '02 Taurus with only 87k miles on her starts right up every time multiple times a day except for twice in the last 3 weeks. The first time was 3 weeks ago and the second was today. It happened the same both times. Turn the key and stop to let the pump prime, then when I turn to the start position the engine turns real slow and sort of in fits. Usually when a battery is low the engine turns slow but in rhythm. During my 2 starts the engine barely seemed to turn and the crankshaft rpm seemed to vary. On both starting events I let off the key and tried to start 2-3 times with rests in between. But then eventually on the 4th try it starts right up just as quickly as a normal start. I have No clue as to what might be causing this. Only thing I know to do is, next time it does this to put a voltage meter on the battery to see if it's weak. Actually though, because both events the engine ended up starting up like normal that would indicate something other than the batt. Electrically this car is a little odd though. The interior light never comes on when the doors are opened, for years, and then last week it comes on twice when one of the rear doors is opened.
  2. Last time I installed a remote start system it was on an old Dynasty whose wiring was too delicate to work on really. A couple weeks after installation it started ok but a ton of white smoke came from under the dash. I uninstalled the entire system and everything was fine after that. So in picking out a starter for this '02 Taurus I want something simple that will work with this car well. The start systems I'm seeing are generally designed to do door locking and unlocking, trunk release, etc. As this car already has those functions on a fob I won't be using any function on any future remote start system other than the remote start. Can anyone with knowledge of my car recommend a decent but low cost / low extra functions start system that would work well with my Taurus? Thanks
  3. I've since been told Ford designed it to turn on in the mode I was running it and the only mode the compressor doesn't come on is the floor only. Who knew.
  4. I have an '02 Taurus with 85k miles on her that I just bought. Today when I was checking something under the hood I noticed this metal line cold and dripping with water... I had the air on but turned to the position of arrows pointing out of the dash and floor vents only. The defrost or a/c function was not selected. It seems to be doing it consistently. I haven't traced all the parts of this car's a/c system yet but I don't know of anything else under a hood that turns cold and sweats. Why would my compressor be working when it's not selected? What tests should I run?
  5. Right on thanks for the advice. I don't think it's running uncharacteristically hot right now. It's had this slightly stalled start behavior before during the rare times I've had to run it as much as I am now. I'm just seeing it more now because of how much I'm using it right now.
  6. This may sound like a stupid question, as I'm prone to ask sometimes. But...I drive a '96 Cherokee with the inline 4.0 non-interference engine and it doesn't like driving in the heat so much. Since I'm a car down right now I'm driving it a LOT more than I used to. After a lot of driving in this hot weather it starts slower, but still starts and runs ok. So to help it out I've been raising the hood and putting 2 box fans right on top of the engine to help it cool. I hadn't thought about it but my Mom asked if cooling it down too quickly could be bad for the engine. And since I don't know I thought I'd ask here. Any harm in using my method to cool an engine down much more quickly than normal?
  7. Wow after all this and it turns out to be the rear end. Just got it to my mechanic and he watched the driveshaft when I gave it some gas, in gear, and it turned. So I guess that's where the sound was coming from. Although my trans fluid smells a little, a mechanic who works on these crown vics a lot says the fluid always smells somewhat burned. I'm super easy on this car so I'm not sure why the fluid would smell like that. Newly changed out like 15k miles ago.
  8. Just now got back from trying to get it going for the first time and no success. First I disconnected the battery for a few minutes like someone had suggested. Checked trans fluid and it seemed at a good level, but definitely dark and burnt smelling. The coolant I had put in there before was still in there so the reservoir was full. The front of the engine was caked with white which I'm assuming was caked on and dried coolant. Started the engine and moved the shift lever through all the gears and that felt normal. Put it in drive and didn't feel anything engage at all. Gave it some gas and something whirred in the trans. The more rpms the louder the sound got. Almost sounded like something rotating...but it seemed to be coming right from the transmission. I just checked the trans fluid last week and it seemed to look fairly new. What in the world could have happened to cause this? So what do I do now? Is the trans toast or could I maybe try putting new trans fluid and filter in and see what happens?
  9. Actually I remember the shift handle seemed to move more freely through the gears. That common friction between gears didn't seem to be there. It wasn't floping back and forth or anything but there def seemed to be a difference. I'll have to pay close attention when I go back to it here in an hour and try to restart it. The other possibilities that have been mentioned to me so far is a broken input shaft or the MLPS, and I don't know what either one of these is. Was told if it ws the MLPS that it would be throwing a code. So wouldn't you know I'm having a problem getting it read. Wonder if there is a way to get a multi-meter on whatever the MLPS is and test it? Also, what is the input shaft and is it something in the drive line?
  10. It seemed to respond like I wasn't shifting at all. I think when I put it in one of the gears it got some kind of ticking sound but that was only briefly. The shift lever seemed to move thorugh all the gears without hesitation. I checked the trans fluid last week at it was full but I'll check it before I try to start later tonight, although I know that's now how you correctly measure trans fluid.
  11. Sadly this may be the last post I make on the old '11 Crown Vic (320k). So yesterday I heard a quiet hiss coming from the front which turned out to be a very small radiator leak...in the middle of a fin somewhere. Doing errands around town today I kept extra coolant with me and added it as it needed. After filling it up I make a 60 mph trip to a nearby city about 20 miles away. When I get to a stop at the bottom of the off ramp, I hit the gas it it doesn't move. No extra lights on the dash except for the check engine light which was already on for something else. I put it in park and back in drive, tried all the gears but got nothing, not even in reverse. Thinking it might have something to do with my coolant situation I checked it and ended up putting in like 1.5 gal of coolant which is much more than it's taken before. Only thing I can imagine is that the leak got worse on the interstate and I didn't notice it. Did the no coolant issue cause the transmission to overheat somehow? There was a slight burning smell in the cabin so something definitely overheated. The overheat light on the dash never came on (I think I have one?) and the engine ran fine the whole time. I was traveling at 60 mph though so I wonder if that would be enough to cool the engine off while the transmission still overheated? What in the heck happened and what do I do, besides sell the damn thing.
  12. So far I've been able to run a couple tests.. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and first key turn got it up to only 20psi. Second turn got it up to 45. And third and subsequent turns got it up to 48. It only fell to 43 after 2 minutes so I think that means the fuel pressure is good. Hooked up a spark tester between a plug and wire and it didn't light at all when cranked so I'm guessing I've got a spark problem. I'll start by doing a tune up with new rotor, cap, wires and plugs then see what happens.
  13. So I got this '96 Jeep Cherokee XJ that cranks but doesn't start. It's got around 180k on her but I keep everything in good shape. Batt seemed strong. I used to drive it everyday but this past year I've driven it only about twice a week. It's been just slightly slower to start in the last couple of months, but just barely slower. Was guessing it had something to do with aging plugs or something. Drove it yesterday and everything was normal like always, sat overnight and today it cranked but didn't catch. Any ideas on where to start?
  14. So I put a headlight wiring kit from LMC Truck on my '96 Cherokee that circumvents the normal wiring and runs the headlights directly off the battery by way of a relay. The kit runs the lights at 55/100 (low, hi) watts instead of the original 55/60. One reason I did this was because the light output was terrible, and the other was because for some unknown reason the headlights would shut off after being on hi for a bit. Never did this on low. I've had the new wiring kit on for a few years now and it seems to have solved the issue. The problem I'm having now though is that this new harness is melting at one of the connections... You can see only one of the wires is overheating while the other seems to be ok. I'm guessing the hot one is used by the high beams. What could be causing this? Could it be related to why the high beams used to shut off before I replaced the wiring harness? A while back I asked about the shutting off issue on a number of Jeep boards but nobody had heard of this particular problem before.
  15. Thanks EC. Great info in that video there. The check engine light went off (dark) on it's own after being on for only a couple days. After staying off for maybe another 2-3 days it came back on again. Have advice it might be my intake manifold leaking, but it was replaced new w/ OEM last year so that's probably not it. New plugs as well. I'll go ahead and replace the air filter just to make sure. Also, the engine takes about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. I don't see any drips in the driveway but I don't see any smoke from the exhaust either. Not sure where the oil is going. I was assuming it was leaking out only when it's being driven. Been told if it's burning oil that could be causing this code as well.

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