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About cfauvel

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  • Location Sarasota, FL, United States

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  1. And get this weirdness... with the original OEM regulator (but burnt), had hard starting. with the first new reg (before burnt) no hard starting with the first reg (after burnt) no hard starting with the first reg NOT connected, no hard starting with second reg (not burnt) connected, no hard starting with third reg (not burnt) connected, no hard starting I wouldn't think a regulator would come into play with the engine running or starting, BUT as soon as I replaced the first OEM reg, bamm started fine. I could have been seeing anecdotal/coincidental things, and just BE carburetor cleaning up itself. maybe next time have the guys simply disconnect regulator when diagnosing hard start scenario as a last ditch.
  2. Well got a new one, from a completely different seller...the fins are bigger and the depth of the fins were more than original requiring longer bolts. Started the motor and waited about a minute, with my thermo got about 90+ degrees. went up and down the street at a good clip and re-took the reading and got around 100 degrees....I think I am good to go now. I'll try it several times this week before returning to my bro-in-law. and the the other seller is refunding my money.....wow
  3. Well I posted the question to the aftermarket seller of the part, and they replied that though the description states it IS for the ATV in question ; it is in fact NOT the right part. So taking it off and sending it back, they'll refund me and pay for shipping... on the hunt for a new one.
  4. well that battery is hooked up right. I'll price out a new stator, just in case and if cheap enough go ahead and replace it. seems awfully coincidental that the OEM fried, the first after market fried and now the second after market is really hot.
  5. Well I don't think so ...attached are the relevant pages from the service manual..... the V from the stator is stated to be 60+ at 5000 rpm....and I'm getting that I didn't do the tests for regulator/rectifier (the grid), confused on that one really...but I'll try.
  6. Ok guys...got the new regulator today and am a bit worried. At idle /cold start, using a infrared therm sensor the reg jumped to 130 degrees F in time at all. Went down the culdesac and took reading again and it was nearing 170 degrees F... I don't think that is good. thoughts?
  7. Ok...at idle the AC voltage is as follows (the three yellow wires) Outside to outside = 30+ outside to middle = 30+ other outside to middle = 30+ at some unknown RPM where the throttle is half way down (don't have a tach) outside to outside = 70+ volts Outside to middle = 65V other outside to middle = 65V I think the stator is actually ok. oh and I tested the ground on the plug that had two black wires and two red wires, with probe on each black wire to ground, they both shown continuity..did it to the frame as well as battery ground wire. Got an offer from the ebay seller to refund me the cost of the original as may have been defective...we'll see.
  8. Just checked the service manual and it states the ohms should be .1 - and 1.0...so I'm within specs for that, maybe simply a bad NEW regulator.
  9. Ok did some preliminary tests. Continuity tests between yellow wires and ground.....all three wires show OPEN, which is what I would expect OMH test between all three yellow wires. Outside to outside = starts off at .6 then drops down to .4 after a bit. Outside to middle = starts off at .6 then drops down to .4 after a bit. second outside to middle = starts off at .6 then drops down to .4 after a bit. I don't think the resistance of the stator is right....will do AC volt check at lunch.
  10. I'll get a pic this lunch time....I had to pull the yellow wires and red wires apart because withthe insulation burnt off (and motor off) the short circuit was still draining the battery....it is SO bad.
  11. 2000-2001 quadmaster 500 LT-A500 ohoh....bought a a new voltage regulator from ebay and it solved a hard start problem. I have only been starting it and not riding it as it was a fixer upper for bro-in-law. Today he came down to pick it up and we went riding up and down the street to find the thing smoking so bad that it nearly caught fire. Do you guys think it is just a cheap voltage regulator and should use the true OEm regulator OR is there is something else that could be cooking these? The original burnt up too. What could be causing these regs to fry? UGH
  12. I know I would have NEVER thought of that, I guess 'thankfully' the regulator was smoking as being the clue. I went with a $17 after market unit from amazon...I could buy 4.5 of these for the price of OEM, we'll see how long it lasts. Now for new tires and reupholstery of one more seat and then I'll be able to hand both ATVs back to my bro-in-law.
  13. OMG - UPDATED Put in the new voltage regulator in today, the motor started quickly with the right amount of choke/enricher employed....took maybe 5 cranks or less. The motor had been sitting for several days, so it was as cold as possible...let it warm up for a minute and played with the throttle and once warmed it didn't hesitate . It kind of makes sense I guess....if the magneto is giving the voltage to the regulator, the regulator in turn feeds the coil (or goes to some CDI component elsewhere), then having a bad regulator would affect the spark.
  14. A little update. been starting this motor everyday since last update and a slight adjustment to pilot screw after installing the tank in the poper place with short fuel and vacuum line....It has become progressively easier to start, though still quite a few cranks of the engine.... Then yesterday I started seeing smoke come around the air filter box....took the rear fender off and found the voltage regulator smoking....poking around here I found this thread The OP's symptoms are very similar to mine...obviously a new regulator has been ordered...we'll see the outcome around Feb 6.... in the meantime I'll be working on the seat foam and upholstery.
  15. Unfortunately this is a Mikuni carb where the choke is actually an enricher and doesn't move the butterfly. Very similar to the Johnson/Evinrude method of 'choking' the engine. The latter is a solenoid that lets fuel behind the carbs into the intake manifold. The choke level when fully on, pulls a needle out of an orifice, and when no choke is on the needle is blocking the orifice. When I do get the motor started and idling, if I employ the choke it kills the motor as one would expect...this tells me the orifice is not clogged (at least not fully) I 've been running with the gas tank away from the carb via longish fuel line and vacuum line...I am thinking that is the issue...normally the fuel line and vacuum line is about 3 inches and 4 inches respectively...with the fuel line I am using being about 3 feet long it might be creating a P-trap...I think I'm going to mount the tank properly and give it another try.