cfauvel

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About cfauvel

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  • Location Sarasota, FL, United States

  1. Unfortunately this is a Mikuni carb where the choke is actually an enricher and doesn't move the butterfly. Very similar to the Johnson/Evinrude method of 'choking' the engine. The latter is a solenoid that lets fuel behind the carbs into the intake manifold. The choke level when fully on, pulls a needle out of an orifice, and when no choke is on the needle is blocking the orifice. When I do get the motor started and idling, if I employ the choke it kills the motor as one would expect...this tells me the orifice is not clogged (at least not fully) I 've been running with the gas tank away from the carb via longish fuel line and vacuum line...I am thinking that is the issue...normally the fuel line and vacuum line is about 3 inches and 4 inches respectively...with the fuel line I am using being about 3 feet long it might be creating a P-trap...I think I'm going to mount the tank properly and give it another try.
  2. GRRR just tried the engine 1 - turned petcock to PRI, waited a few seconds 2- set the enricher to all the way...cranked...nothing 3 - set the petcock to RES and enricher to halfway...cranked....nothing 4 - set the enricher to nothing....cranked ....nothing 5- sprayed starter fluid into the air box, started right up and idled nicely and throttle response was good after warming up a bit. Thoughts?
  3. GRRR and YAY.. set the carb to 2.5 turns out and cranked and cranked and cranked until the engine started. It idled pretty well right off the bat, but if you goosed the throttle it would WOMP and almost die....I screw in the pilot screw a little bit at a time and kept trying the throttle. After several adjustments trying the the throttle it would rev nicely without dieng . had to take the classic 69 mustang out to put xmas lights away in the attic and decided to re-test the inductive tach that I had...it worked...So went back to ATV and tried it again...it didn't work...then I saw a protective sleeve over the spark plug wire....cut that back a little to get the pickup directly on the wire...first try nothing, flipped it 180 degrees and got a reading. At first it was pretty accurate then for some reason it started doubling and tripling...I managed to set the RPM at around 1600 when it seemed accurate, then the tool read 4000 - 6000 whilst idling.....ugh. over the course of an hour I turned off the motor and went back where it would start and idle perfectly. let it cool for several hours and it WOULDN'T start after cranking a lot...finally the battery had enough.....put a Battery Tender on last night and will see in a bit how it does. If these are like outboards, you need a good battery to turn the magneto fast enough to produce the right amount of starting spark for the CDi ignition to charge up the capacitors to discharge. I'll keep you posted.
  4. Thanks Dave and no worries, you've been a great sounding board. I hear ya about trying to diagnose from afar. I don't know these carbs either so get confused as to whether this Pilot Screw is an idle air bleed or idle fuel jet....on my 225 evinrude the idle circuit is controlled by idle air bleed, meaning they let in air, so larger orifice means more air not more fuel....Sounds like the pilot screw is an idle air limiter based on your suggestion of screwing it in more... Thanks again...I'll keep ya posted. BTW My flex shaft screw driver is going to work.
  5. Thanks Dave, will try that saturday....off to office tomorrow :-(....I get back in the dark. I was hoping the mentioning of where the choke was when it finally started would be a clue. Any recommendations for a brand/model for inductive tach?
  6. Ok put the carb back on with pilot screw set at 3.5 and tried starting it. Put the fuel pet cock to PRI for about 10 seconds and tried...kept cranking , kept cranking, tried the "choke" and only with the choke NOT engaged did it finally start up. once started and idling if I tried the throttle it would hesitate and die. only after a warn up period of several minutes did the throttle behave and not hesitate and die. and once warmed up it seems to idle fine....I don't have a functioning inductive style tachometer to know my true RPM...I am open to suggestions on a brand/model of a inductive tachometer. So what do you all thinK? unscrew the pilot screw a bit more? Screw the pilot screw in more?
  7. FIXED - took out the ignition switch and followed the continuity tests described in the service manual....rather than a KILL, when turning on the lights, the bridge between Red (power) to Orange (ignition) to Grey (lights) skipped the ignition and went to lights solely....took apart the switch and could see crud on the copper contacts, used a brass brush then some 600 grit sandpaper to clean up the contacts and re-did the tests...all good now. whew...although the ignition switch is probably THE cheapest part on this ATV.
  8. Just checked the pilot screw # of turns out and it was only 3. I must have turned it in to try to get it to lean out then back out until it sounded better and ended up at 3. I'm going through the carb one more time cleaning out the ports again...and double checking the float level one more time. Looking at the gas I'm seeing a yellow tinge, like the color of cadmium plated parts, so fuel might be an issue too...will get some REC gas once I have the carb back together. Also looking at the idle speed screw and cam under the black plate, it doesn't seem like I screwed in the idle speed screw much at all.. UPDATE:I checked the float level and the setting was a little low, the manual states it should be 13.00 mm +/- .5mm, so I had to raise it about 1.5mm...right now it is at 13.2....When I raise it, it seems to me that it would lower the level of fuel, right? As it is closer to the bottom. We'll see tomorrow how it behaves.
  9. Just checked the pilot screw # of turns out and it was only 3. I must have turned it in to try to get it to lean out then back out until it sounded better and ended up at 3. I'm going through the carb one more time cleaning out the ports again...and double checking the float level one more time. Looking at the gas I'm seeing a yellow tinge, like the color of cadmium plated parts, so fuel might be an issue too...will get some REC gas once I have the carb back together. Also looking at the idle speed screw and cam under the black plate, it doesn't seem like I screwed in the idle speed screw much at all..
  10. Carb Pilot Screw Adjustment

    I'm in the same boat....they DO make a screw driver that accepts different bits that is on a flexible shaft, just like the idle speed screw that pushes the butterfly open via a cable that bends 90 degrees under the carb to the right side of the engine (at least it does on 2000 quadmaster 500)
  11. What do you think of the following to adjust the idle mixture (ie pilot screw)? Assuming I find a way to turn the pilot screw without burning myself anymore. 1 - add a T to the vacuum line from the carb to the gas tank's petcock 2 - screw in the idle speed screw (the screw linked to the throttle under the black side cap) so that the motor idles well enough 3 - adjust the idle mix/pilot screw in or our until I get the maximum vacuum 4 - lower the idle speed screw to meet the 1500 +/- 100 rpm range. NOTE: I'm not seeing a fuel pump mentioned in the service manual....I assume there IS NOT one for the quadmaster 500....just gravity fed with the vacuum at the petcock to let fuel run into the carb with selector is on ON or REV. When on PRI just gravity fed. UGH just rethinking the vacuum port on the carb....not sure if it will be a steady vacuum or a pulse...easy enough to test.
  12. got cha...yeah I think it is the switch too(at least I hope so)...since when you turn off the switch it closes the kill contacts, something inside is jacked up that closes the contacts when lights are turned on. We see that often on boat switches.
  13. First thank you for the nice detailed response. Yes I thought a good job clearing out all of the passages, but the carb was SO varnished up there could still be crap in the passage... funny story(not really but has a happy ending)...with the carb kit that I bought it came with new jets (main pilot, etc). I put in the new pilot screw and turned it 2.5 out from lightly seated. Installed the carb and worked on gett the motor started, so messed with the pilot screw...apparently went the wrong way and fully seated the plot screw and then once realised turned the screw counterclockwise, but wasn't happy with the results, so let it cool down and took carb off...took out the pilot screw only to find that the tip broke off in the orifice....panic sets in....I see the tip of the pilot screw and figure I'll just push down to get it unstuck from the orifice....that promptly bent the tip so that there was NO WAY it was going to come out from whence it came....MORE PANIC NOW .....dremeled the tip off and used all kinds of picks to try to push the remainder from the orifice.... no luck....look on ebay for used one, none to be found, look at the price of a new one and freak out..... As a last ditch I used an OMC/Johnson/Evinrude orifice cleaning tool (mostly super tiny drill bits, smaller than 1/16") and hand twisted clockwise for 10 minutes to drill through the brass tip that was left. Once I was through, the hole was actually smaller than the orifice, I could see some brass still there...had my daughter with the good eyes use a pin to push the remaining sliver of brass out. Under a bore scope, which magnifies pretty well, I could see the orifice wasn't boogered up. So there HAS been some stuff done to the pilot screw orifice. :-( As far as the 5 turns, it is just a guess as I was doing this with the engine running and getting my hands burned...I'll take off the carb after work to see actually how many turns I'm out currently. I do have a screw driver with a flexi shaft...going to try that, may save me from burns too. Right now it takes a lot of cranking to get it running and messing with choke. When warmed up it revs easy enough (I'm not riding it yet, just neutral) , when i left off the gas and let it idle a bit then turn it off it back fires through the exhaust if that is helpful information. to me any backfire means lean, at least it does on my outboard. Chris
  14. is there a particular color for ignition and other color for lights? Sorry new to this machine, literally a newbie to atv....but pretty mechanical.
  15. Why am I not getting responses? grrr so the red light issue is fixed...used a multimeter set to continuity and I had continuity on a cold temp sender...bought a new one and the red light is gone...I haven't tested the new one in a pot of boiling water yet, but suspect it is fine. finding that the suzuki parts are bloody expensive...ebay seems to be the cheapest source.