cfauvel

Very cool.... you did exactly what I did to get it idling right...bravo. what IS your primary language? What I like about forums and youtube...you get to interact with EVERYONE around the world. It really makes me see that we are all really doing the same things. We play music, we make music, we play with boats, we play with ATVs....all over the world.

I looked but can't find where I bought it from ...but found the package Moose Racing part # 1003-0555 I think I bought it JUST for the brass doohicky to hold the throttle cable...but since I had a brand new carb there was nothing I needed from it

ugh ...I don't remember anymore...

I'm not sure what you mean. if you mean the little brass needle looking thing...yeah I think it was included ...should be a pic of it in the ebay listing. I believe it came with a new black threaded plastic retainer too. The way it works is opposite of a choke really. When full "choke" the needle is pulled away from the orifice which in turn would allow more gas to be sucked in. Then when the "choke" is released the needle is fully seated in the orifice, thus the primary circuit being used to suck in the gas. Actually I think I had to buy a rebuild kit that included that needle and the little brass gizmo that holds the throttle cable.

here is the one I bought from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-for-Suzuki-Quad-Master-500-QuadMaster-500-LTA500F-2000-2001/362566375168?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Hopefully you don't have to mill out the port where the throttle cable goes.

Would be nice to be able to edit one's [previous posts....the values highlighted in yellow above were NOT achieved by either regulator...only the .4-.7 values were seen. The new regulator stays cooler when the ATV is warmed up and doesn't sporadically miss. I say this has been resolved.

New regulator Diode test results

it appears the model Y and K1 represent the years...apparently I'm working on a 2000 atv not 2001 like I thought found an online vin decode page (not automatic)... https://www.suzukiatvforums.com/threads/identifying-your-vin.5662/ my vin comes out to J - japan S - suzuki A - atv A - ATV M - 400-499cc 4 - 4 stroke 2 - design sequence 2 A - design sequence A "123456789ABCDEF...." - this is the 10th design sequence letter of A 0 - check digit y - model year 2000(Y), 2001(1) (or K1) 2 - factory code 107100 - serial number I accidentally bought the correct regulator

found an online vin decode page (not automatic)...but it appears I have a year 2000 quadmaster not 2001 https://www.suzukiatvforums.com/threads/identifying-your-vin.5662/ my vin comes out to J - japan S - suzuki A - atv A - ATV M - 400-499cc 4 - 4 stroke 2 - design sequence 2 A - design sequence A "123456789ABCDEF...." - this is the 10 design sequence letter of A 0 - check digit y - model year 2000(Y), 2001(1) (or K1) 2 - factory code 107100 - serial number

this is the parts diagram...would be nice if there were something more as to what is Model Y and Model K1 I did get the following from an ebay seller 32800-44D21 is 1362912516503 **ASU6022 is for years 1998 to 2001** 32800-44D31 is 362868291780 **ASU6023 is for different models and years 2000-2005** I went with the 21 as it IS a quadmaster... "Is there a part number anywhere on yours to cross reference?" - well the one on there is actually a replacement from 2018 and it failed so not sure if that is the right one...I'll check tomorrow. I don't have the one from 2001

there are two part numbers that come up for the voltage regulator 32800-44D21 model Y 32800-44D31 model K1 I don't know which one to get . how do I know what model the ATV is?

looking at the parts layout...I don't see the pickup coil being separate from the stator, which is a bummer..... I'd like to replace the pickup coil stuff as it is a little off from spec...but since it runs so well slightly warm I think I will skip it. The parts diagram lists two regulators model Y and model K1, not sure which is right for my application.

woohoo Update: Test results Ignition Coil resistance primary spec 0.1 - 0.8 actual -> 0.000 ohm secondary spec 10 - 15 kOhms actual 17.x kohms (not quite in spec) cranking volts spec > 140v actual >160+ Pickups and power source coils voltage pickup coil spec > 0.5v actual = blue/green = 6.x+v powersource coil spec >0.7 v actual - yellow/white = 0.5v - 0.6v (not quite in spec) resistance pickup spec 170-250 ohms actual 234 ohms blue/green powersource spec .05 - .5 ohm actual 0.0 - 0.1 ohms white/yellow Stator no load Voltage test (3 yellow wire at voltage regulator) multimeter set to AC and engine running at 5000 rpm pin A to pin b, and pin A to pin C, and pin B to Pin c Spec +60v Actual 69+ volts Diode test... .I screwed that up (just notice the multimeter is supposed to be set to Diode, going to re-test that for confirmation whilst cold and whilst hot) The fact that the manual says to test the No Load Voltage (the three yellow wire connector at voltage regulator) whilst the motor is running and coupler disconnected I knew I could mess with that connector whilst it was running waited 10+ minutes at idle and a bit off idle until I heard the motor missing...disconnected the 3 yellow wire coupler and it instantly got better ....plugged it back in...then a couple minutes it started missing again....and again unplugged the coupler and it got better instantly. THE FIX - I am 99% sure it is the regulator though it is only 2 years old. BTW I HATE how everything is buried...have to remove the gas tank to get to coil?!

Thank you so much for the detailed reply.. What you described is extremely similar to my 2cycle 225hp Evinrude.....so now I'm getting it... on the johnson/evinrude too the magnets on the flywheel would either fly off (they were glued on) or slide towards each other, thus the voltage created by the stator would not be correct for the CDI/powerpack. When the magnets slid together the symptom would be lower than expected rpms and boat wouldn't get on plane....didn't miss per se, but no umpf the flywheel is behind the pull start right? Thanks again for the explanation...really helps Chris PS: I don't think the magnets are the issue as when the motor is warming up it runs great and fast....I suspect some thermal related issue....either CDI or coil. Would the voltage regulator/rectifier come into play in the ignition? on my boat the regulator provides 14v to the battery, provides 12 v for the variou accessories and the tach puls for the tachometer....so I COULD remove the regulator and the motor would start...it would burn up the stator, but it would run.

took a ride and played with gas cap when it started acting up...don't think it is the cap or lack of gas when it started happening I took the gas cap of and nothing changed I changed the petcock to PRI and RES and nothing happened differently then out of the blue it was fine for a bit, then happened again. The video below shows that it doesn't appear to be the gas cap Could it be the coil? Do you know the ignition system on this thing? What tells the coil to fire? Starting with the stator/magneto wires must be going to the voltage regulator to produce the 14v+ to the battery, as well some wires must be going somewhere to provide 100-200v to something that has capacitors (like a boat's powerpack), then something to trigger that to send the volts to the coil that ups the volts to something like 20-40Kv that goes to plug....right? Again I don't know this machine very well, so no clue what triggers the timing of the spark....I don't think the coil itself would know when to trigger, so a bit in the dark. oooh found the ignition system for the quadmaster...it HAS a powerpack thingy...now where is it? 🙂