AC400TX

Is it still under warranty? Sounds ike my new lawnmower that I'm having problems with...lol.. I'd lean towards the gas first, then check the plug(s). Is it FI? If it is, it could be as simple as a relay or more complex like an injector, regulator,..etc.

Yes, it's EFI and under warranty, but don't want to take it in unless I have to.

My 09 700 H1 keeps dying on me, and I thought I'd check to see if you guys have any suggestions on what might be causing it. This is long...sorry.

It had been sitting for a month or two when I decided to ride it around the neighborhood the other day just to run it.

Day 1

When I was pulling back into the garage, it died and wouldn't start back. My first thought was the battery, so I put it on the charger.

It was pretty low (around 30% I think), so I let it charge and tried to ride it again a couple of days later. It charged to 100% per my Schumacher digital charger, but a little bit of acid bubbled out of the top while charging.

Day 2

While I was letting it warm up at idle, it died several times after only running a few seconds each time.

When I started backing out of the garage, it died a few more times as soon as I gave it throttle.

Once I got it out of the garage, it died a few more times while giving it throttle in H.

I rode for a few minutes at low speed with my son in the backyard, and it died a few more times when I would stop.

At this point, I'm thinking bad gas instead of bad battery.

Day 3

The tank was pretty low, the gas had been sitting in it a month or two, and I don't think I had and stabilizer in it, so I filled it up with fresh gas and some Seafoam the next day to try again.

After a few more dies at idle while warming up, backing out, etc. I finally got it running long enough to ride around the neighborhood.

It hesitated or sputtered a couple of times while giving it throttle at 30-40 MPH, but seemed to be running a little better after a while.

Day 4

Today, after a couple of quick dies at idle, it seemed to be idling and running better.

I took it out to our land to see how it was running, and it was doing fine for a while.

After about 15 minutes of low speed riding, it hesitated or sputtered a couple of times, then died on me when I stopped.

It took a few minutes to get it started again, died a few times while giving throttle, then I kept riding for another 15 minutes or so.

Then it died, and wouldn't start again. I ended up having to push it around and winch it back up on the trailer.

Does anybody have any idea what might be causing this dying problem?

Does it sound like bad gas that I just need to run through it, or something else?

It's only got 369 miles on it, has run just fine up until now, and never sucked up any water.

I did the break-in oil change at 100 miles and another oil change/air filter service at 300 miles.

Thanks in advance for any info/suggestions...

I'm thinking about getting an audio tube, and was wondering who has what, how you like it, where you got it, and what you paid.

Anybody got one of these? ATV Trail Tunes

I've already decided against making one myself.

Thanks for any info...

Does anybody have factory painted plastics?

If so, what are the pros and cons of paint?

Do you like the paint better than regular plastic?

How does it hold up?

If you were to buy another rig tomorrow, would it have paint or not?

Thanks for all the info...

I prefer to do as much myself as possible, but I was uncomfortable removing the carb, so I decided to have a local shop install my Dynojet kit on my 08 AC 400.

The guy doing the install told me he didn't adjust the pilot screw (aka fuel mixture screw) because it required a special tool he didn't have.

He described it as round on one side and flat on the other. The Dynojet instructions say to adjust with a flat head screwdriver.

I called their tech line, and they seemed to think only Honda and Polaris used the D-shaped adjustment screw, but they're sending me a tool anyway.

Per my manual, the stock pilot screw setting is 1 3/4 turns out, and the Dynojet kit recommends 2 1/2 turns out.

If it's idling and running okay at lower throttle, will I be okay leaving the pilot screw at the factory setting, or should I go ahead and adjust to Dynojet recommendations?

Can I make the adjustment with the carb still on, or does it need to come off?

I don't know if it's a common problem or just me, but you might want to check the hose clamps on your rear diff vent.

Mine was leaking oil up around the bellows/accordian, and I noticed the clamps were loose.

Upon further inspection, I found that not only the two connecting the bellows to the hose were loose, but the clamp at the diff vent to the hose was loose too.

Freely spinning clamps can't be doing too much clamping.

I replaced all 3 clamps with some better ones that actually clamp (from O'Reilly). I also went ahead and replaced the splice joint from the hose to the bellows with a slightly bigger one.

I drained and filled the diff after that to be safe. The front is next...

I know this is a stupid question, but I don't know anything, and I'm learning as I go...

When you say "set your shocks at a low setting," what do you mean?

Mine are still at the 1/2 way mark, which is where they came.

Does a low setting mean to adjust them so they're more compressed or less compressed?

Thanks for the tip on the Moose lift. I didn't know about it.

Do you think I'd be ok with a 1.5 Moose and some shock/spring adjustment without having to take it easy on the throttle? (Gorillas are not an option for me)

I think I figured out what's causing my gas leak.

After looking at it again today and thumbing through the manual, I found that the float bowl has a drain screw and hose.

I think my drain screw might have backed out, and that's what's causing the leak. I'm going to check this week to be sure.

I'm thinking about a 2" lift for my AC, but I was wondering what else, other than the kit, is required to ensure trouble-free operation.

It seems like lifting would mess up axle geometry.

Basically, what I'm asking is, if installing a 2" lift kit, do I need to add anything else to keep from screwing something up?

Yeah, it just hangs down off the carb.

Nope, didn't take anything off, other than the stock filter.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it was coming from the vent hose.

The hose was a little wet on the end and smelled like gas, and there was a little bit of gas right below it on the skid plate.

There was no noticeable power loss.

I'm not sure if it was a drip or a stream. It wasn't running when I noticed the gas on the skid plate, and after that, I was worried, so I loaded it up.

I installed a SuperTrapp Mudslinger and a K&N yesterday and took my AC 400 out for a test ride today to see how it was running.

During my ride, I noticed a fuel leak that appears to be coming from the carb vent hose.

The carb is bone stock, and hasn't been touched. I wanted to see how it was running before planning any jetting.

What does this mean? How worried should I be?

After watching the clips on SuperTrapp's site, I decided to go with the Mudslinger. It seems to have a meaner, more agressive tone than the IDSX, which sounds closer to stock.

I also ordered a Dynojet kit and a K&N to go with it.

I'm trying trying to decide between the SuperTrapp IDSX and the Mudslinger for my 08 Arctic Cat 400.

I'm looking for the best power increase and the best sound.

Does anybody have any experience with either of these?

I've got a Boss amp for sale that I bought to make an audio tube, but decided against it. It's a refurb, in the box with manuals. $50 shipped.

Boss Chaos CH-150

200 Watts (100W x 2Ch)

Does anybody make a full snorkel kit for an 08 Arctic Cat 400 Auto?

I've read a little bit about making your own, but with my lack of experience, I'd prefer a kit with a nice set of instructions.

I've got the stock wheels and tires off my 2008 Arctic Cat 400 4x4 for sale.

I bought it in June, and they have around 15 miles on them.

The wheels are the gray finish - 12x7 front, 12x8 rear.

The tires are Goodyear Rawhide RS - 25x8-12 front, 25x10-12 rear.

I'm asking $250 for the set.

When I bought my Arctic Cat last month, I asked the tech that was going over it with me about break-in.

He said it wasn't necessary to worry about it, because the engines went through a break-in at the factory.

I took his word for it, and have put about 60 miles on it so far.

I haven't abused it, but I've had it wide open 3-4 times, and have pulled my 5x10 trailer around the yard a little.

The manual says a 10 hour (100 mile) break-in is necessary, and that during this time, you should stay below 1/2 throttle and not tow a trailer.

It's running just fine, but I'm worried that I may have damaged something.

Any thoughts, experience, etc. on this topic?

nice bike r u entering it in the contest?

What contest?

I looked at a couple big names like progressive and called my local agent. It was cheaper going with the big names. Do you need insurance if all you want to protect it while at your home inside the garage? I need to find out if my homeowners insurance covers theft. I found quotes as cheap as $60 a year.

Most likely your homeowners will cover theft, vandalism, etc while on your property.

so r u going to get a pipe or r u going to wait for the warranty to be over?

I haven't decided yet. I just bought a winch and a wheel and tire kit, so it'll probably be a little while before I get anything else.

I'm trying to pace myself.

Here's some before and after shots.

Does anybody else carry insurance on their ATV?

Progressive is the way to go if you're looking.

I just got liability/comp/collision with a $100 deductible, $1000 trailer coverage, $3000 accessory coverage, and uninsured motorist for $250/year on my 08 AC 400.

I'm thinking about a new muffler for my AC 400, but I have a few questions...

1. Will it void my warranty?

2. Will I get a noticeable gain (torque, speed, etc)?

3. Will the pipe require me to re-jet or do anything else?

My choices are:

Muzzys

Super Trapp Mudslinger

Super Trapp IDSX

I decided on the 14" SS212 wheels with 26" Zillas.

This combo is only 15 pounds heavier the 12" wheel with 26" Zillas, lighter than 26" Swamp Lites on 12" wheels, and only 5 pounds heavier than 26" Mud Lites on 12" wheels.