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About Venom

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  • Location Fort Mc Coy, FL, USA

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  1. Took me a long time to get out that shift lever. It was rusted solid... Kept spraying it with PB Blaster and worked on it evey hour or so in between other things I was working on. After a couple of days it finally broke free.
  2. I may have been able to salvage the gaskets, but I decided to play it safe and get new ones.. I have a post on here about the complete restoration of this Raptor 80. I have been slacking on adding updates, but have all the photos and will update it soon.. https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14419-2003-yamaha-raptor-80-restoration/
  3. Luck was on my side.... While inspecting everything while the engine was in Neutral I grabbed the case and main axle shaft to move the engine for a better look and low and behold it was no longer in Neutral even though the transmission had not changed gears... After gently moving all the transmission parts in every direction looking for slop I found a slight movement of the Main Axle Shaft. It was sliding about 1/8" left and right. This was enough to engage 1st gear and Neutral.. Upon further inspection I found that the plate that holds the Main Axle Bearing in place had come loose and the bearing had moved out 1/8" creating the shifting problem. I tightened the plate back up and no more shifting problem. The two screws that hold in the bearing plate had been torqued down according to the Service Manual. This time I added Loctite before torquing them down. Just in case this ever happens to anyone else I have added a photo showing the location of the Bearing Plate. It sits behind the clutch... That is correct... Behind the clutch... If I had initially seen that I would not have had to split the case... 🙄
  4. Once I split the case and was manually trying to go through the gears by hand I could feel it binding up... I took out all the transmission parts and inspected each one according to the service manual. Everything was fine and in spec. I reinstalled everything and the gears changed like butter, as they should. Something has to have caused the issue... I need to really look at everything....
  5. Ok , got the motor out.. Took off the clutch cover. The shift shaft is working properly and all springs are intact and working properly. The shift cam assembly seems to only be turning between 1st and 2nd gear. No neutral or 3rd gear. Next I will disassemble the engine and split the case.... It would have been so nice if it was a spring..... More updates coming...
  6. Thanks for the response... I had a feeling splitting the case was going to be needed... All I had left was to put on the plastics.... I will update here with what I find.. Thanks again...
  7. Hi All, I did a total restoration on a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80. Rebuilt the engine and tranny.. Started it up today and it runs great. Took it for a ride and the transmission worked perfectly. Adjusted the carb a little more and went for another ride. It ran awesome, pulled into the workshop shifted into neutral ( Neutral light came on) and shut off the bike. went to roll it and noticed she would not roll. Turned on the key and neutral light was on... After some troubleshooting I found that she is in first gear with the neutral light on and will not shift into neutral... It seems to up shift fine into 2nd and 3rd and then back down to 1st. I am hoping somebody can shed some light on what is happening... Thanks for any help...
  8. Hi All, I started stripping the engine down while I am waiting on some parts for the frame. I ran into my first problem... I cannot get the gear selector shaft out... I took out the circlip.. Then the push lever behind the circlip is supposed to slide off, then you take a pin out of the shaft and then two washers and a ball bearing... The problem is the push lever seems to have fused itself to the gear selector shaft... I do see some rust.. I have spent the last 2 hours trying to take it off and nothing has worked... gently prying, heating and tapping to try and rock it back and forth... Anyone have any ideas?... It is really on there...
  9. First thing to do is to put in the new Frame Bushings.. I have a 20 ton press, but it would be pretty awkward to use for the bushings.. So, I made a bushing insert tool. It is 7/16" Threaded Rod, 3 - 7/16" Nuts 4 - 7/16" Regular Washers and 4 - extra thick 7/16" Fender Washers. The thicker and stronger the washers the better. I greased up the bushings and they went in with some wrenching. The last 1/8" was tough to get in, but the tool worked... I got the front arm installed and I think I want to buy new shocks.. Can anyone recommend some shocks they have used and like?
  10. This was another post i had made elsewhere: Hi All, Rebuilding a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80.. Currently taking apart the rear diff. To get out the Pinion gear you need a Spanner Socket.. It looks like the part number for the Yamaha tool is no longer good. Anybody know who sells the correct Spanner socket? Yamaha lists it as 32mm but I don't see how that is possible. Pin to Pin on the nut is 48mm.. Any help is greatly appreciated.. After no response I posted the following: Ok, So it would appear that this question has been asked many times on many forums for many years and no one has ever answered this question... After many hours of searching I have found the correct information! First pay no attention to the Yamaha part number in the Raptor 80 service manual, it is incorrect. The correct Yamaha Part number for the Ring Nut Wrench / Socket is YM-38404. But Yamaha no longer has this tool to ship. You have to order it directly from the company that makes it.. K&L Supply Company. The K&L part number is KL-0530R This number along with the Yamaha part number are on the tool itself. But when you call them they go by the part number 35-38404. That is the number you give them in order to buy the part. It cost $45 + Shipping. This tool will work on the rear end pinion gear and also on the rear axle hub. It is needed if you want to change worn out bearings. I am including pics of the rear pinion with the nut as well as the tool. Here is a link to K&L Well guess you don't get the link since I am new here... Go to klsupply.com and use part number 35-38404 Ok, getting out the Spanner nus in the rear end was a job, but the frame bushings were the worst... See the details in the links above. Now the parts were ready for sandblasting and then to be dropped off at the Powder Coaters. I am going with a Translucent Candy Apple Red Metallic.. First they lay down a chrome powder coating and then powder coat over that with the candy apple red. Ok, parts are back...... These are all the parts I had done... The photo does not do the color justice. Outside in the sunlight it sparkles and looks like a candy apple.
  11. Hi, All I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update.. So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard. Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom.. These are photos of when I got it home. Next up, the tear down.. First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed.. Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth. Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go. You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly... I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. .... https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14209-raptor-80-frame-bushings/?tab=comments#comment-104702
  12. After tons of reading what I found was only a few people tried to get these out of a Yamaha FJ1200 motorcycle frame which uses the same Yamaha bushing as the Raptor 80 frame.. One person wrecked his frame and the other two got them out with some minor frame damage. They basically beat them out with a hammer and chisel.. Nowhere are there instructions for getting these out. Even the Yamaha service manual only says.. "If they are worn, remove and replace". Mine were not worn, but I am doing a complete restoration of this Raptor 80 and having the frame and other parts powder coated. So here we go... first this is what the Bushings look like... They are a thick metal tube surrounded by hard rubber, then surrounded by a thin metal tube. That thin metal tube is the problem. It is so thin that there is no way to catch onto it with anything and if you try and press the bushing out from the inner tube you just stretch the rubber and it never moves. I have a 20 ton press and once I released the pressure the inner bushing tube just went back in like a turtle head.... There are four of them to take out on a Raptor 80. Two on the frame for the swing arm and two on the front arm. The ones on the front arm are slightly larger in diameter. What I finally did was to use a propane torch that I use for copper plumbing fittings. I heated around the bushing until the rubber melted. That allowed me to grab the center tube with vice grips and pull it out. The center tube came out with the burnt rubber around it leaving the thin tube still in the frame. The tube is so thin that nothing you could put in the end of the frame will push out the tube. You would need something that was machined to the exact inside diameter of the frame in order to push on it. I could see that the tube was thin enough that it would probably bend easily. I took a very small flat screwdriver with a thin tip and was able to find a spot to pry the tube from the wall, lightly tapping on the screwdriver accomplished this.. once I had a tiny spot bent away from the wall , I took a small flat chisel and small hammer and went around the tube bending down the edges making a shelf that I could then push down with a socket and the press. that is how I got them out. It is a long slow process.There is a picture of the removed tube with the bent down end. The last photos of the removed bushing tubes have the inner tube and rubber pushed in a little.
  13. Anybody know the proper way to get out the Frame bushings on a Raptor 80.... Last thing I need to do before powdercoating the frame... Any help is appreciated
  14. Venom


  15. Ok, I took it completely apart. that hole looked sealed. I blew in it and it is sealed. The only other place gas could come from would be the pass through tube just above it. I took out the pass through tube and looked at it under a magnifying lamp... There it was... A small crack in the o-ring. I put new o-rings on it and put it back in. That fixed it... it was leaking down onto that other opening that made it look like it was coming from there...

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