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Venom

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About Venom

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  • Location Fort Mc Coy, FL, USA

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  1. Hi All, I started stripping the engine down while I am waiting on some parts for the frame. I ran into my first problem... I cannot get the gear selector shaft out... I took out the circlip.. Then the push lever behind the circlip is supposed to slide off, then you take a pin out of the shaft and then two washers and a ball bearing... The problem is the push lever seems to have fused itself to the gear selector shaft... I do see some rust.. I have spent the last 2 hours trying to take it off and nothing has worked... gently prying, heating and tapping to try and rock it back and forth... Anyone have any ideas?... It is really on there...
  2. First thing to do is to put in the new Frame Bushings.. I have a 20 ton press, but it would be pretty awkward to use for the bushings.. So, I made a bushing insert tool. It is 7/16" Threaded Rod, 3 - 7/16" Nuts 4 - 7/16" Regular Washers and 4 - extra thick 7/16" Fender Washers. The thicker and stronger the washers the better. I greased up the bushings and they went in with some wrenching. The last 1/8" was tough to get in, but the tool worked... I got the front arm installed and I think I want to buy new shocks.. Can anyone recommend some shocks they have used and like?
  3. This was another post i had made elsewhere: Hi All, Rebuilding a 2003 Yamaha Raptor 80.. Currently taking apart the rear diff. To get out the Pinion gear you need a Spanner Socket.. It looks like the part number for the Yamaha tool is no longer good. Anybody know who sells the correct Spanner socket? Yamaha lists it as 32mm but I don't see how that is possible. Pin to Pin on the nut is 48mm.. Any help is greatly appreciated.. After no response I posted the following: Ok, So it would appear that this question has been asked many times on many forums for many years and no one has ever answered this question... After many hours of searching I have found the correct information! First pay no attention to the Yamaha part number in the Raptor 80 service manual, it is incorrect. The correct Yamaha Part number for the Ring Nut Wrench / Socket is YM-38404. But Yamaha no longer has this tool to ship. You have to order it directly from the company that makes it.. K&L Supply Company. The K&L part number is KL-0530R This number along with the Yamaha part number are on the tool itself. But when you call them they go by the part number 35-38404. That is the number you give them in order to buy the part. It cost $45 + Shipping. This tool will work on the rear end pinion gear and also on the rear axle hub. It is needed if you want to change worn out bearings. I am including pics of the rear pinion with the nut as well as the tool. Here is a link to K&L Well guess you don't get the link since I am new here... Go to klsupply.com and use part number 35-38404 Ok, getting out the Spanner nus in the rear end was a job, but the frame bushings were the worst... See the details in the links above. Now the parts were ready for sandblasting and then to be dropped off at the Powder Coaters. I am going with a Translucent Candy Apple Red Metallic.. First they lay down a chrome powder coating and then powder coat over that with the candy apple red. Ok, parts are back...... These are all the parts I had done... The photo does not do the color justice. Outside in the sunlight it sparkles and looks like a candy apple.
  4. Hi, All I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update.. So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard. Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom.. These are photos of when I got it home. Next up, the tear down.. First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed.. Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth. Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go. You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly... I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. .... https://www.quadcrazy.com/atvforum/topic/14209-raptor-80-frame-bushings/?tab=comments#comment-104702
  5. After tons of reading what I found was only a few people tried to get these out of a Yamaha FJ1200 motorcycle frame which uses the same Yamaha bushing as the Raptor 80 frame.. One person wrecked his frame and the other two got them out with some minor frame damage. They basically beat them out with a hammer and chisel.. Nowhere are there instructions for getting these out. Even the Yamaha service manual only says.. "If they are worn, remove and replace". Mine were not worn, but I am doing a complete restoration of this Raptor 80 and having the frame and other parts powder coated. So here we go... first this is what the Bushings look like... They are a thick metal tube surrounded by hard rubber, then surrounded by a thin metal tube. That thin metal tube is the problem. It is so thin that there is no way to catch onto it with anything and if you try and press the bushing out from the inner tube you just stretch the rubber and it never moves. I have a 20 ton press and once I released the pressure the inner bushing tube just went back in like a turtle head.... There are four of them to take out on a Raptor 80. Two on the frame for the swing arm and two on the front arm. The ones on the front arm are slightly larger in diameter. What I finally did was to use a propane torch that I use for copper plumbing fittings. I heated around the bushing until the rubber melted. That allowed me to grab the center tube with vice grips and pull it out. The center tube came out with the burnt rubber around it leaving the thin tube still in the frame. The tube is so thin that nothing you could put in the end of the frame will push out the tube. You would need something that was machined to the exact inside diameter of the frame in order to push on it. I could see that the tube was thin enough that it would probably bend easily. I took a very small flat screwdriver with a thin tip and was able to find a spot to pry the tube from the wall, lightly tapping on the screwdriver accomplished this.. once I had a tiny spot bent away from the wall , I took a small flat chisel and small hammer and went around the tube bending down the edges making a shelf that I could then push down with a socket and the press. that is how I got them out. It is a long slow process.There is a picture of the removed tube with the bent down end. The last photos of the removed bushing tubes have the inner tube and rubber pushed in a little.
  6. Anybody know the proper way to get out the Frame bushings on a Raptor 80.... Last thing I need to do before powdercoating the frame... Any help is appreciated
  7. Venom

    Venom

  8. Ok, I took it completely apart. that hole looked sealed. I blew in it and it is sealed. The only other place gas could come from would be the pass through tube just above it. I took out the pass through tube and looked at it under a magnifying lamp... There it was... A small crack in the o-ring. I put new o-rings on it and put it back in. That fixed it... it was leaking down onto that other opening that made it look like it was coming from there...
  9. Hi All, Hoping someone will be able to help. I have a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie 700 with twin Keihin Carbs CKVR D32. The Rear Carb is leaking out the side during cranking. it is not the float bowl overflow. It is on the opposite side of the carb from the diaphragm. I got this bike not running and someone had already messed with it. I took the carbs apart , cleaned and rebuilt. Everything went pretty easy. It looks like it could be missing a small tube between the carbs but I have all of them listed in the service manual installed. See the pic for where it is leaking from... Any help would be much appreciated.. Thanks.
  10. Wow, nobody can offer any advice? I would like to know since the front cylinder connecting rod has a little play in it on the crank, can just replace the connecting rod bearings on the front cylinder without splitting the crankcase? Everything else seems great with no play in the bottom end.
  11. So is there a Kawasaki Engine Guru on this forum? I would like to get some confirmation on how to proceed. The service manual is good, but experience and tips are best...
  12. Ok, I took off the Rear Head first and found a broken timing chain and the piston had hit the intake valves.. I don't know if you will be able to see from the photo of the valves. They are stuck open and binding. The top of the piston looks fine. I then removed the cylinder. They cylinder looks to be in great condition, but I do not think these are factory pistons.. I took off the front head and everything looks great. Took off the front cylinder and it looks great. Same non factory looking piston on the front. I then checked the connecting rod on the rear cylinder, it feels nice and tight with no play when pulling it straight up and down and moves smoothly like it should on the crank shaft. Then I checked the front connecting rod and there is a slight amount of play when moving it up and down.. I do not think that is a good sign.. Ok, this where I need advice and help.. When I was a kid I used to build V8 muscle car engines like it was nothing, but I have never done anything other than rings or valves in these type engines.. Everything in the bottom end has always been great. So I am guessing I need a valve job with new Valves, springs, Etc.. All timing Chains replaced. I will check the cam for tolerances as well as the other head parts to see if they need to be replaced. So here is my question Other than rod bearings should I be replacing anything else on the bottom end? Are these known for wearing out parts on the bottom end? Should I try going back to factory pistons after I check to see the size of these and if the cylinders were bored? If this was your engine what would you do? Thanks for any help...
  13. Getting it stripped down and I am a little worried. I see paint markings on the cylinders.. F and R designating front and rear cylinders.. That means someone has been in here before....
  14. Hi All, I finished up my Prairie 400 restore and this is my next project.. It is a 2006 Kawasaki Prairie KVF700D 4X4 Mean Green Special Edition. I got this for next to nothing , it is in really rough shape. The current owner stated that the engine is seized and he only rode it twice after putting on brand new tires. It has been sitting in the yard under a tarp for more than two years.. Here it is when I brought it home. Actually in those photos I had already removed the recoil starter cover and put a 19MM socket on the bolt with a breaker bar to gently see if the motor was seized. I got lucky it is not seized and moves like it should until you start to feel it bind. If I am lucky this could be a timing chain or dropped valve. I will start tearing it down..

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