DPDISXR4Ti

Good to see my thread is alive and well, nearly 13 years later!  Fortunately I haven't had a repeat of the leak issue despite the fact that my  Kodiak does sit for longer lengths of time than it should.  I do however still have issues with it stalling once warm and the choke shut off.  I've somewhat considered replacing the carb, but replacing the original Mikuni with a Chinese knock-off probably is NOT the right thing to do.

I've had pretty much this same issue on my 2003 Kodiak 450 for years.  It's really annoying when plowing snow given all the start-stopping-stalling.  At times I've used the choke slightly engaged to keep it running, but I know that's a band-aid fix.  I've tried messing with the idle speed, but that didn't really work.

Which jet is the low speed one?

On 3/13/2018 at 1:17 PM, mailman1 said:

Also there is a brass slotted head screw I believe on the bottom of the carb., try turning it all the way in (keep track of how many turns) and then back it out 2 3/8-2 1/2 turns out for starters.

I just went out and quickly looked for this but didn't find it.  But it's kinda hard to see the bottom-side with the carb installed, so maybe it's just hiding? 

23 hours ago, mailman1 said:

There should be a thumb screw on the carb to adjust your idle, might try that and see if it helps.

Yea, I tried messing with that some a few years back and it didn't seem to yield good results. I forget exactly now so it might be worth messing with again.

So it sounds like replacing the carb with a cheap after-market unit isn't a good idea.  It seems to me that if there's a jet which is used at idle which I could step up one notch, that could be a resolution.  But I really don't know enough about how this carb works to know if that's feasible.  Anyone know better?

Is your fueling issue a tendency to stall at idle?  That's the problem I've had for years, and I've considered swapping in one of those carbs that you see all over eBay for $35.  And yes, I have tried cleaning the carb, but to no avail.

After getting 10 years out of my original battery, I've only gotten 3 out of a Vietnamese "Adventure Power" UTX20L.  It still indicates 12.X volts, but totally fails a load test so I'm assuming it's junk.  Some might say it was "junk" from day 1, and I suppose I might agree now.

Is there any value to getting a larger battery and putting it in the big storage space under the seat?  Maybe a Deka ETX30L?  Or should I just stick with the stock size, but get a "better" battery such as the Deka ETX20L?

Any input appreciated.

At the end of last Winter my snowplow cable broke and now I finally need to get around to replacing it. Original cable was 1/8" but I think I can upgrade to 3/16" - anyone have any experience there? It's a Yamaha branded plow w/ a Warn (I think) manual lift.

There's a ball-end on the cable, so not sure if that complicates matters and I need to get a pre-made cable.

Appreciate any insight

Just to close the loop on this thread, all back together and running fine again. I thoroughly sprayed the float mechanism and all the little needle holes with carb cleaner, reassembled, and all good now. Still not too sure what got the float valve hung in the down position, but that's what must have happened.

Hopefully the problem doesn't reappear in the middle of a snowstrom.

Well, whatever you do, good luck with it. I hope you can get it back in there somehow.

Ironically enough, I was getting this done about the same time you posted this yesterday! I clipped the rear tang off the lower air-box - it doesn't even get fastened any way, so all it mostly does is gets in the way when re-installing.

The other "trick" was to pull the forward hose clamp back - the one that fastens the inlet hose to the carb. I did this since you have to have the hose attached to the air-box when installing, and you really have to mash the snot out of that hose as a result. Once you get everything positioned in place, you pull the hose clamp forward into place and tighten.

Glad I didn't have to cut it - hope I don't have to pull the box again any time soon.

All good now - thanks!

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I'm sure I verified it originally when I first signed up. The thing is, that e-mail address is dead now so I'm sorta in a catch-22. I could just start over and create a new ID with the new e-mail address, but that seems like the wrong way to do it. Can you manually verify the account perhaps and then I'll be able to go change the address myself?

Thanks...

Have you gotten it in yet?

Nope. Thinking about cutting some of the front-to-back length out of it and plastic-welding it back together.

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Very odd...

If you got it out, it really should go back in. What's it hitting?

I really had to yank on it to get it out - it's hitting the back panel just forward of the battery. I almost got it in place, but then realized I had totally smashed the hose clamp down for the inlet hose.

Am I missing something, or is the lower air-box all but impossible to replace once it's been removed? I guess in hindsight maybe I didn't need to remove it to get the carb out, but it's out now, and doesn't want to go back.

I'm considering cutting out an inch from the back and making it shorter, but obviously that won't be a quick task. Might be easier to just get an after-market filter and get rid of the box, but I really hadn't planned on that.

Suggestions???

I'm trying to change my e-mail in my profile, but any time I attempt to change anything in my profile I get this message....

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Even if I re-login at that point it doesn't matter - I get the same error message.

Obviously I am logged in as I'm about to create and post this message, so I'm about out of clues as to what the problem is.

I've got a Grizzly in my garage that has the same issue. I think it 's the petcock valve that's bad.

No, that's working fine I think - it SHOULD allow fuel to flow to the carb as soon as I rotate it 90 degrees. Well, it's doing that just fine.

I think it can only be one of two things:

1) The float itself got hung up in the down position and thus kept letting fuel flow into the bowl (and then out the overflow)

2) The valve that is directly actuated by the float got stuck in the down position - see #1 above - same idea. Wait, maybe that's the petcock valve you're referring to?

Any way, blowing on the fuel inlet now while I rotate the float up and down, everything seems to be working fine, so I guess I'll just bolt everything back up. I'm thinking if this happens again, I might be able to "fix" this by simply removing the fuel line and applying a vacumm with my Mity-vac.

P.S. Thanks for deleting the dup thread.

Just an update... I've finally gotten around to removing the carb entirely - took out the four screws that fasten the reservoir - everything looks clean, but that's about all I can say as I don't really know what I'm looking for. Is it as simple as the float having gotten hung up on the brass pin that comes up out of the bottom of the reservoir?

I've heard there may be an update for this carb - anyone know if this is true?

Seeing as how I was having some warm idle issues any way (had to leave it choked just a hair), I'll probably just pull the whole thing off and clean it up. I'm mechanically inclined enough that I'm not too concerned about doing that, but most of my experience is with fuel-injected automobile engines. Anything in particular I should be concerned with here?

I think your float is stuck.

Well, I have verified that the screw for the drain is not loose, so your idea of the float being stuck does seem all the more likely.

Any chance that lightly rapping the carb with a small mallet might "un-stick" the float? Is this at all a common occurrance?

it could be the carb drain plug hose...all/most carbs come with nozzle on the bottom of them so you can drain old gas that has been sitting..

Check and see where the hose connects to the carb is there a screw where the connect??

Yes, see the pics below. The small black hose is directly below the screw in the middle of the picture. The second pic shows where it drains out in the front-left wheel wheel.

Could the problem be as simple as that screw having backed out?

over time cracks could have formed in the hose line

It's not an issue of fuel leaking through and/or around the hose. The hose is functioning perfectly fine to carry the fuel out.

I guess a more basic question might be, what is the purpose of that hose at the bottom of the carb, and what does it mean if fuel is pouring out of it as soon as I turn the selector to "on"?

I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.

The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.

Thanks...

If it's been yours since new, with low milegae, my guess is that it sits for a while at times.

What might be happening is, the float needle is corroded, causing the float not to rise up to where it should be, starving it with gas at low idle.

Thanks for the specific feedback. Indeed it does sit for a while sometimes, so what you indicate is certainly a possibility. I presume it's pin #13 in the diagram that you're referring to, yes?

I guess I'll be figuring out how to take the carb apart next.