Lance Workman

I may have said that wrong, with the valve springs removed and head just sitting on my bench, the valve would slowing fall out. Not loose like the guide is worn, just that the old seals where not tight on the valves. It isn't my atv but when I first started it, it was little noisy, like timing chain slop but quietened with rpms. Is there a way to check cam to crank timing without pulling the front clutch over? I have gut feeling it jumped time just due the fact on TDC on compression stroke my intake valve is close and my exhaust is starting to open. And its not from being way out on lash, I even verified with just push rod. Exhaust valve is definitely trying to open on TDC. Also, like I mentioned it was running great, no smoke, started easy. It just seemed like it bogged a little so wammy hammered it a littler harder and it tried to pickup for just a second but then instantly fell on its face. This is what I was talking about on the valve seals, normal just seals are where shot. IMG_0224.MOV

Guys, had a worn smokey recon 250 to the point it it was fouling plugs. Well pulled the jug looked great and believe my culprit was valve seals. They could not even hold the valve in place. So honed the cylinder for good measure and installed new rings while it was apart. Also lapped valves while it was apart due to little corrosion on the intake valve face, went on and did exhuast while it was apart also. Reinstalled everything, adjusted valves, I cant remember how far out they was but they where out a bit. Well long story short it started up, ran great for about 20 minutes and then randomly died while accelerating. Compression is 60 psi at best.... double checked valve lash and it was way out?? Adjusted it, but you can tell its not right. Still no start, and with rockers arms removed still not compression......? Which making believe ring issue? But why is valve lash all over the place?! Is there an easy way to check cam to crank timing to make sure it hasn't jump time? Thanks!